Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

csmith56

Thanks for your replies. Keep 'em comin'. I need all the ammo I can get my hands on. The point about the aluminum makes a whole hell of a lot of sense. I said yesterday that the residue was possibly the result of a mechanical part breaking down, most likely the water pump. I'll stop by today and get a sample of the "residue" in question. I still haven't heard anything from the dealer yet, but I've been reading some of these horror stories so I'm expecting the worst. Thanks for you responses but if anybody has any other suggestions, I'd really appreciate your help.

newsview

UPDATE:

I'm writing to update y'all on two "unsolved mysteries" with respect to my '01 Elantra.

Most recently, with respect to unsolved mystery number one, an HMA tech rep diagnosed my car's engine acceleration rattle as a bad motor mount. My dealer replaced the mount, but it didn't help the rattle (may have solved a problem I didn't know I had, though.). I finally broke down and took it to another dealer, as was advised by Backy and others on this board awhile back. Though the car has low miles and is still under warranty, I inquired if the "new" Hyundai dealer would look into the two unsolved mysteries. Naturally, they are charging an inspection fee. The fee was going to roll over into a warranty repair if they found the source of my engine rattle or the rear-of-car thumping/bumping sound I sometimes get while braking lightly at a stoplight. But now, instead of rolling my inspection fee into a repair, they're asking me to pick it up and have my dealer finish what they started.

WIth respect to the first problem, the cold-engine acceleration rattle, the new dealer's mechanic, having no idea that I previously took it to an independent mechanic for a listen, agreed with the independent's assessment that it is valve related. The new dealer claims there were codes, but none of them are stored for the benefit of my original dealer, whom I am supposed to return to (I've never seen a CEL, either). The new dealer, despite having found a legitimate warranty claim, says they would have to charge me for the repair. To get it repaired UNDER warranty, they want me to go back to my original dealership to have the valves repaired. Apparently, this has something to do with the fact that they can see my history of complaints about the noise going back several years. My question: Can the new dealer really claim that I would have to PAY to have them fix it when, in fact, it is still under factory warranty? They're explanation is that they're all independent. I know they are not corporate owned per se, but we're talking HYUNDAI, not Pep Boys! In my estimation, they should be able to call and get HMA to authorize the work. Perhaps the real issue is that my car has become a hot potato. What irks me is that I explained all this up front and in person before setting up my appointment to ASK whether any problem they diagnosed would roll into a warranty repair, and yet now I'm being told to go back to a dealer that has proven its unwillingness and/or incompetence to fix the problem for four years now. Considering that the new dealer is NOT going to let me roll my inspection fee into on-site warranty repair, I guess they make money off me either way. But technically, doesn't that put Hyundai into the position of having to reimburse me for the fact that it was inspected by a Hyundai dealership that would not let me obtain warranty repairs at the same facility? The way I see it, I shouldn't have to pay for an inspection that's based upon a warranty claim that's been on record now practically since Day One!

After all I've gone through with my dealer, I really wanted to find a new dealer, but that prospect sours if they're going to pass me back to my old dealer like a hot potato. According to the HMA website, I am entitled to go to ANY Hyundai dealer for warranty or repair work. The fact that the new dealer would bounce me back to my original dealer is exactly what I feared, which is why it took me four years to take it to another dealer in the first place. In one respect, I'm just happy they gave me the documentation I needed to prove what my late Father (a former auto shop owner) and an independent mechanic suspected—valve problems.

As for the second "unsolved mystery" nobody has a clue. I can't get that issue to reproduce on cue. For lack of a better description, it sounds, every once in awhile, like someone is trapped inside my trunk banging to try to get out. Of course, that's not really where the noise is coming from (probably from the rear right tire area). I've had the muffler checked, but my original dealer won't do further investigation without reproducing the problem. I don't know if the ABS/TCS is faulty or if I have a problem with the rear suspension. (The front struts, BTW, were replaced within two weeks of ownership, so I wouldn't rule that possibility out, however unlikely it should be with so few miles.)

I don't want to give up on this car, but I'm afraid that the valve lash problem went on too long before it was caught. Bad valves will cause wear and tear on the camshaft and other critical components, which causes premature engine failure.

Question

If this were your car, would you accept a valve repair at 25,000 miles or would insist on a new engine? From what I've read online by professional automotive columnists and radio talk show hosts, the damage to my engine could already be considerable given that it started in the first 1,000 miles. Would you say I got a lemon?

Thanks for "listening" folks, and for your helpful input.

backy

Making you go back to the original dealer is bogus. What if you just moved 1000 miles away from the original dealer? Would they still make you go back? As the web site says, you can have warranty work performed at any dealer. A few weeks ago, I called the dealer closest to me, explained to the service manager the troubles I've had with the dealer from which I bought my two Elantras, and asked if he could help me out. He said sure, they'd be glad to have my business. So I took my '04 Elantra there for some work (warranty and otherwise) and today took my '01 Elantra there. One of the things I brought the '01 Elantra in for had previously been worked on by the other dealer, and they didn't fix it--and I explicitly told the new dealer that. They didn't bat an eye. And it was warranty work. So they didn't care--and shouldn't care. If it's warranty work, HMA will reimburse them. Now, the dealer did tell me they would charge an inspection fee ($89), and if it turned out that a warranted part was involved (which it was), they would waive the fee.

You might tell the dealer you want to talk with the Regional Hyundai rep on this one.

jlflemmons

What a crock. A Hyundai dealer is required to perform warranty repairs on a vehicle under warranty unless it can be proven that the malfunction was caused by abuse or neglect. Methinks it is time to call Hyundai Customer Support line, and/or the State Attorney's office.

I wish you were here in Central Texas. Round Rock has a great Hyundai dealership.

csmith56

OK. Here's the update: The dealer called me this morning and is telling me that my car is NOT going to be covered under warranty. So basically, they are telling me that am responsible for the car breaking down. I have kept up with all warranty requirements and now I'm getting railroaded by Hyundai. They should honor their warranties. They are single-handedly now the worst dealer I've ever dealt with. Any advice would be appreciated.

backy

1) Appeal to the dealer's sales manger. Tell him/her you were going to buy a Santa Fe soon, but if this is how they treat customers you will buy elsewhere.
2) If that doesn't work, tell them you want to talk to the Regional customer service rep.
3) If that doesn't work, initiate the arbitration process (outlined in your owner's manual).

inharmsway

hi guys.
Anyone (Backy) knows if the ac cuts off automatically during hard acceleration? I have had other cars that does this, and it seems that my 2004 gt might too. Niels

backy

Well, I don't know if that would be considered a "problem" or not but I forgot if it does that. The GT is my wife's car (I get the basic '01 GLS) so I don't get to drive it much, and when I do it's usually around town so I don't push it to the point the A/C would cut off, if it does. Plus it's going to be wind chills in the 20s F tomorrow in my town, so I don't think I'll need the A/C. Maybe another GT owner can comment.

jlflemmons

Haven't really thought about it on the Elantra, but ever since cars have gone to throttle position sensors and engine control computers this has been quite common. Thought behind it is that if you are at WOT (wide open throttle) you are trying to get the most power available from the engine. So when WOT is detected, the computer can send a signal to disengage the AC compressor and allow the engine to provide all of the available power to the drivetrain.

Jim

inharmsway

Thanks. I think it is a good thing if the computer cuts out the ac when it realizes you mean business (pedal to metal) and need all the power you can get. I just don't know if this car does it. Niels

csmith56

To be quite honest, I have no intentions of getting a Santa Fe now. After dealing with this, why would I? This has given me the impression that Hyundai will always dispute what is warranty service and what isn't?

csmith56

How could I forget? I had the dealer fax me a copy of the form filled out denying the warranty service by the "warranty"rep. The exact mileage on the car is 29,773.
Thorough inspection of the warranty guidelines states that the coolant should be changed at 30,000 miles. On the form, the first reason for denial of warranty service is "No Coolant Service Done". Wait, let me see, last I looked, 29,773 is less than 30,000. Therefore, the car has UNDER 30,000 miles! There is no way that this will hold up. Also, reason number 2 states that warranty was denied because: "Car was driven while overheating". Yeah right. The car stalled, making it impossible to drive while overheating. By the way, there was NO mention of the "residue" or "additive" that they originally mentioned, which to me proves that the "residue" was actually caused by a coolant system part malfunctioning. I am prepared to fight this as far as I can go. Hyundai definitely lost a customer.

backy

Be aware that Hyundai may point to the maintenance schedule, which states that the coolant is to be changed every 30,000 miles or 24 months, whichever comes first. Personally I follow maintenance schedules by mileage not by time, because I only put 7500-9,000 miles per year on my two Elantras. When I bought my first Elantra, I made a point of asking the service manager at the dealership, "Can I go by miles for service and not time?" and he said yes (and I documented that discussion, in case there was ever a problem).

As for driving the car while overheating... what did they expect, that you would predict that the car would overheat and not drive it that day, and instead call for a tow? "Hey, I think my car's cooling system is going to fail today, could you tow me to the nearest Hyundai dealer?"

csmith56

No. The maintenance schedule simply says 24 months "or" 30,000 miles. It doesn't say "whichever comes first". I double-checked that before I posted the previous message. I just gave all the info. to a friend (a paralegal) to have some lawyers check out my case.

jlflemmons

I changed the antifreeze myself at about 30K miles on my '02 Elantra, and the stuff coming out looked just like the new stuff going in. I still say an analysis is going to show a lot of aluminum in suspension, and would also pull the waterpump to take a look at the bearing and impeller.

The only thing that comes to mind is the use of sealant to stop a small leak. This is used on GM CPI engines when the injector system is disassembled. I owned a Safari that was burning up injectors regularly, and every time the repair was done, the mechanic would add the sealant, not knowing the previous mechanic had done the same. After five CPI rebuilds, there was a massive amount of sealer in the cooling system, and at 70MPH in the middle of nowhere on Christmas Eve, and no, I am not making that up for dramatic effect, the sealant closed off the heater core feed hose and blew the cooling system apart. GMC took the van back under Texas Lemon Law with very little discussion. All I did was show them five warranty repair orders showing the sealant had been added, and none showing the coolant had been flushed and replaced. Van had 8200 miles on it when it went bye bye.

All this to state that sometimes a repair involves the cooling system where you wouldn't think it did. Consider carefully any repairs that have been done to the engine and make sure someone didn't add to the cooling system without your knowlege.

Another thought would be a lube shop checking the radiator during an oil change and thinking the coolant was low adding the wrong fluid to the radiator.

Jim

backy

That's good that the maintenance schedule for your Elantra doesn't say "whichever comes first." It appears then that Hyundai changed the language mid-way in the current model's life, but then reverted to the old language. In the 2001 Elantra's owner's manual and maintenance log, they say "whichever comes first." Then again for 2004, it again says "whichever comes first." Odd that they changed the language back and forth like that.

csmith56

Yeah it is weird, because I thought that I was a goner until I noticed that it didn't say whichever comes first. Hopefully I'll get some good news from a lawyer today.

altsuv

Hey guys, it's been a while since I stopped in. I've had my used '02 for about 14 months, and racked up over 17k miles (I'm currently at 38k). I've had no problems with it except for a brake rotor issue.

A month or two back, I had my mechanic check out the brakes because the pedal was getting low. He told me I needed new pads, which sounded right becuase we do alot of city stop-n-go driving.

While removing the rotors to turn them down, he had a problem removing the right front rotor. He said it was rusted in place, and it actually cracked in half when trying to get it off. I paid him to replace it, and at the time, I couldn't figure out if this should be covered by warranty.

The next day, I started having a problem with the left front rotor. A rubbing/vibration after hard braking. I brought it back to him and he re-turned it. He said this sometimes happens right after turning, exposed new metal may warp a tiny bit. Except now the problem is back.

So, after checking my owners manual and warranty info, I can't figure out if the darn rotors are covered by warranty or not. Everything is worded so ambiguously. Anyone know for sure if rotors are covered, or if maybe I can find out from their website? And if so, what do you guys recommend I do?

Thanks for any help, and sorry for such a seemingly stupid question.

jlflemmons

Quality aftermarket rotors here in Texas go for $16 each, and take about 15 minutes to replace, so I wouldn't be too concerned if you have to replace them. I agree about the early failure of the rotor, and I have heard of a few cases of this in areas where salt is used on the roadways.

altsuv

So, I guess you're saying that it's not worth the trouble of trying to get the warped rotor replaced under warranty?

csmith56

I'm not sure if this applies, but if your brakes are hot, try to prevent running through puddles. The hot rotors and cool water could aslo cause them to warp.

jlflemmons

Just saying that if you cannot get them replaced under warranty, you will not be looking at a big ticket repair.

altsuv

"I'm not sure if this applies, but if your brakes are hot, try to prevent running through puddles. The hot rotors and cool water could aslo cause them to warp. "

In my case, this happens in dry weather. It only pops up when you have to hit the brakes hard. When the brakes cool off, the problem goes away. It seems like when the rotor heats up, the metal expands very slightly, then contracts upon cooling.

altsuv

"Just saying that if you cannot get them replaced under warranty, you will not be looking at a big ticket repair. "

Yea, I see what your saying. But then there's the cost of labor too. I'd like to have it done under warranty if it's covered. I have a feeling the dealer is going to tell me otherwise, as in, "this is a wear item, just like brake pads".

czangara

DISCOVERED NEW CAR HAS VIBRATION/ALIGNMENT/ACCELERATION PROBLEMS WHEN DRIVING IT HOME ON FREEWAY. DEALER SAID IT NEEDED NEW TIRES BUT DIDN'T REPLACE TIRES. DEMANDED NEW REPLACEMENT CAR. STILL WAITING FOR DEALER TO RESPOND TO CALLS/FAXES. TIRE STORE MANAGER SAYS NOT A TIRE PROBLEM AFTER MULTIPLE BALANCING, DRIVING CAR WHILE ON RACK WITH TIRES OFF GROUND. HE FOUND SEVERE CAR SHAKING AT 75. SUSPECTS POWERTRAIN PROBLEM. ISN'T THERE A NEW ACCELERATION THING ON THESE CARS? HELP?

backy

First, please take your caps lock off--looks like shouting.

The wheel shimmy problem is frequently corrected by proper balancing on a Hunter machine--not everyone has that kind of machine. Ask the tire store manager what kind of machine they use.

If the dealer doesn't respond real soon, call the Hyundai 800 customer service number, explain you have a safety issue on your car that makes it undrivable, and ask them what they are going to do about it.

czangara

A Hunter machine was used and the alignment and shaking still couldn't be corrected. The Hunter web site says that if the problem can't be corrected by the Hunter balancing process then the problem is not the tire or rims. My biggest problem continues to be the lack of dealer support. And, as the sole caregiver to my husband, a 100% disabled vet, I don't need any more more problems. How silly of me to think that buying a new Elantra would my life easier!

backy

Have you gone "up the chain" at the dealer--including the sales rep you bought the car from, the sales manager, and the service manager? If so then you need to get on the phone to Hyundai corporate pronto and get some action.

Unfortunately, buying a new car is no guarantee there won't be problems with it. The average number of defects in the first 3 months per 100 new cars is about 118, according to surveys by J.D. Power. Hyundais in general do a little better than that, but the odds are not in your favor for having a completely trouble-free car. It's a shame your car's particular problem is being ignored by the dealer. Any other dealers in your area that you could go to in the future?

jlflemmons

Insist that a member of the dealership service department management ride with you and show them the problem. I had a similar issue years ago that the mechanic kept reporting "could not duplicate". Problem was he didn't follow the test scenario I had left. Once I got him in the car and showed him what and when the problem occured, they found a mis-welded wheel and replaced it.

njdevil

we had a 2003 elantra gt that had warped rotors that were repaired under warranty. they even installed new brake pads under the warranty because of the warped rotors. the car had 44,000 miles onit. you have to bring it to a hyundai dealer to get the warranty coverage. good luck.

dragonshade

Having spent years in auto dealerships I know warranties can be very touchy. As a rule any DEFECT in parts, material, or workmanship is a warranty repair. Njdevil, you got very lucky. Rotors are considered a a wearing part, so usually if the defect does not show with the first 5-10k miles there is no coverage. In your case I would think it was more of a customer loyalty/service issue. Warped rotors are hardly ever covered unless there is a cause for it...ie sticking caliper, etc. I have seen people warp $300.00 rotors in less than 5000 miles in a BMW, and it simply is caused by super aggressive driving and the resulting stops. If you want to get technical usually rotors that are warped from wear usually have spots (blueish) from overheating. It's also worth noting as the rotors wear, and pads replaced a few times the ever decreasing thickness of the rotor make it more likely.
I also noticed a coolant/overheat post above. As far as "dealer/manufacturer expectations" go....when the engine begins to overheat there are lights coming on, the temp gauge is in the red, and usually some smoke seen. The owner is fully expected to shut down the enigne immediately, pull over, and call for assistance. If the owner continues to drive the "resulting damage" is not warranty. Usually the overheat does little damage on it's own, continued operation destroys. Now, all that said this is not always easily done, I myself have driven a car to it's death because I was at highway speed, radio blaring, and not paying attention during an overheat. The coolant can easily be tested for any foreign materials, but I doubt you still have a sample, and from what you say I would believe all of what Hyundai tells me. As someone who used to be on the inside, my advice would be to create a huge stink at the factory level. Many calls to the factory, customer service, until you get to the higher ups usually handles this. The dealer itself (save for the service manager) has no pull in this...go as high as you can at the manufacter, and then threaten to call local news stations (be prepared to back it up). This should handle it. Good luck

dragonshade

Hiya everyone, I just found this board, and am about to get an 05 Elantra GLS. I would prefer an automatic in the car, but I know they can be problems (generally speaking). The 10/100K warranty is great, but I will be putting 25-30,000 miles on it a year, and am worried about long term durabilty. Please if anyone has had an auto in theirs for so 120,000+ miles please let me know your experiences. I will normally go 100,000 on a clutch, and don't want to be dropping a new tranny in in less miles than that. Also any opinions on the transmission on this car would be great. A local dealer to me will sell me a 5sp. with the CD player for like 12K flat....out the door tax, title, everything. Sounds like a good deal.

backy

If you enjoy driving a stick and normally get 100k miles on a clutch, by all means go for the 5-speed. It's more responsive, gets better fuel economy than the automatic (I own both a 5-speed and automatic current-gen Elantra so I can compare), and costs about $800 less. Looks like you'll be driving it into the ground so the reduced resale value of a 5-speed shouldn't be an issue for you. You could even install a short-throw shifter like some Elantra owners have done and have even more fun.

The automatic on my '04 GT works fine so far, but we only put about 9-10k miles per year on it so the automatic will be covered as long as we intend to own it.

dragonshade

Hey Backy, thanks for the quick reply. I have looked over a lot of the previous posts, and, lol looks you've had a few years of elantra experience (think I saw posts from you in like 2001)....and you came back for more (04 GT), so I guess that says a lot . Well the problem is my wife will be driving the car a good deal also, she loves auto's, and more importantly is rough on a clutch :mad:. The other reason is we live in Atlanta.....the biggest traffic nightmare this country has ever seen. Automatics are great for saving the clutch foot, but then again traffic is HARD on any trans/clutch, but SEVERE on autos. All in all I would have a stick, but these are real considerations. So I guess my point is if Hyundai has gotten it right (finally - after reading the early posts) and now has a bulletproof auto tranny I should get it. If, however they are at all still questionable (did they ever fix that tranny stumbling/flaring issue?) then I need a manual.
It seems from reading here the main probs were the auto tranny, vibration/tires/wheel issues, a/c noise. I am still reading the posts, and only up to June 2002 (where some were saying there was a trans software TSB, and others said there was no fix), so I dunno if the new (04 and 05's) have all this worked out, I hope so.

p.s. - did you say short throw shifter for an Elantra :surprise:
I would just have to lol. Where can I get one? the dealer? or aftermarket?
thanks

backy

From everything I've read the automatic in the Elantra isn't bulletproof yet. There haven't been mass-recalled like Honda's, but still many reports of failures. So if that's your expectation, go with the 5-speed and give your wife some personal lessons.

Look at the Elantra mods discussion here for some posts on an aftermarket short-throw shifter kit that some owners have installed and really like.

gwhatnow

I'm looking to buy an Elantra, so, recently, I rented for a weekend, and then test drove three different 2005 GLSs, all with the same problem -- the car(s) accelerated with very little pressure on the gas pedal. This meant that in order to go under 80 on the freeway or to keep the speed down to 45 on local roads I had to drive with only the edge of my toes touching the gas pedal. I've driven many other cars and never had this happen, and to confirm I wasn't crazy, I had a friend also test drive the rental. What's up with this problem? Has anyone else run into this? Can it be fixed?

tfro

I bought my Elantra on Friday, and on Saturday the check engine light went on! (it's not the gas cap, that's securely on). Took it to the dealer and they told me it should go away, drive it through the weekend. Now it's Monday and the light is still on....Insights? Is this common?

backy

Since all three cars you drove felt the same, it's probably not a problem with the car but a characteristic. I own two Elantras, one automatic and one stick (I assume the rentals were automatics) and it's no problem to control their speed. But then, I always use a light touch on the pedal to save gas (i.e. pretend there's a raw egg between my foot and the gas pedal). I too drive many cars as rentals, and haven't noticed the Elantra's gas pedal is any touchier than these other cars. It's possible that the Elantra is more succeptible to a "heavy foot" than some other cars.

backy

It's possible the gas cap was screwed on too loosely by someone at the dealership. It can take a few days for the check engine light to reset after the cap is screwed on tight. That happened to me once. If you do have to take it into the dealer, be sure the service writer notes on the writeup that you told them right away about the check engine light, and they told you to keep driving it.

gwhatnow

I drove 6 different Elantras (automatics). 3 had the problem. The touch on these gas pedals had to be so light in order to keep to the speed limit, that unless I drove with my foot twisted on its side and used only the tips of my toes, the pressure from just resting my foot on the pedal would cause the car to go too fast. Once I figured out what to do (instead of holding my foot up and making my ankle sore) it wasn't exactly uncomfortable, but I would prefer not to drive like that. I'm thinking about buying one of the cars that didn't have the problem. So, I guess the question I'm most concerned with is whether there's a way to adjust the gas pedal "touch" required to accelerate, in case the car I buy one day starts to have this problem.

mcdawgg

Speaking from experience, if your wife likes automatics, and she is "rough" on clutches, you better get an automatic! Don't even bother with trying to teach her how to use a clutch better. Let me guess... she slips the clutch a LOT so she does not stall, right?

daddioof4

First Time poster here. I have a 2003 Elantra with 33k miles on it. The other day, my kid needed air in his bike tire. So I plugged in my portable air pump into the cigarette lighter and it blew a fuse. I replaced the fuse, started the car and plugged the pump into the cigarette lighter and the pump worked so good, I gave all the bikes some needed air. Now, here is the catch. The Radio and Clock don't work. ! The lighter works fine. I checked every fuse behind the little coin box and the fuse box under the hood. They all are good. Does anybody have any suggestions? Which fuse runs the clock and radio? There is none listed for the clock and I am assuming the one abbreviated as RAD is for the radio and not for the radiator! Help :confuse:

backy

OK, you didn't say before that you drove 6 cars in all and only half had the light touch. If no one here knows you might call your local Hyundai dealer and talk to their senior service tech about it--make it clear you are considering buying an Elantra but need to get this question resolved.

daddioof4

Regarding the Check engine light: I too had this problem when my elantra was less than a month old. I haven't had the problem since. I have now had it for 20 months and 35k miles. So give it a week or two!

gwhatnow

Just asked someone at work who is a car guy, and he said it's likely the throttle return spring. I looked and found this link which talks about the same problem on a different car , http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns/Archive/1999/October/08.html
and I'd guess it's the same issue/solution - replace the return spring.

altsuv

Went back to my mechanic yesterday for the warped rotors. He said both my front rotors were warped again and needed to be re-surfaced. Again, the left one is original, and the right one was just replaced in January. I've got an '02 w/ 38500 miles.

He blames the repeated warping on two possible things: It's a cheap car that uses cheap materials and thinner rotors, or my wife and I are driving aggresively and we're heating up the rotors excesively. I don't really buy either explaination. The rotors might be cheap as dirt, but even the cheapest rotors shouldn't warp in ONE DAY! And our driving habbits haven't changed. We live in NYC, and our previous cars were fine with day to day stop and go traffic.

My mechanic is really good, and he never tries to rip me off. If anything, he doesn't go far enough to fix problems. If the rotors warp again, I'll try the dealer.

Does anyone have any other input as to why these elantra rotors keep warping on me? Any solutions to the problem?

daddioof4

I posted msg 1567 regarding a blown fuse. I realized after the post that my interior lights and my remote door lock/security system is dead in addition to the radio and clock. I don't understand if I blew the fuse for the cigarette lighter and replaced the fuse and now the lighter works, why would the other things not work also? Should I disconnect my battery, reconnect it and hope the system resets it self? Or are these items on a separate fuse from the lighter. If they are separate, why am I having problems after blowing the C Lighter fuse?

5port

This info about the dash clock on the Elantra was taken from Hyundai's on-line shop manual:

http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech

Elantra Clock
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION

Battery voltage is applied at all times to the digital clock from fuse 25 to provide clock memory. With the igniton switch in ACC or ON, battery voltage is applied to the clock through fuse 9. The digital clock lights up and displays the time.

With the light switch in PARK or HEAD, the light switch provides ground to the digital clock and the digital clock's display will dim.

Elantra Radio
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION

The audio receives battery voltage at all times from fuse 25 to maintain memory function. Fuse 9 supplies battery voltage to the audio when the ignition switch is in ACC or ON for audio operation and displays. The audio is grounded at G11 and a noise filter is installed on the rear side of the audio case.

tjabaruzi

Hey,
Did you finaaly find out what was creating this strange wind noise? I gave up after many tries. Please let me know if you have any new ideas.
Thanks.

seandc

Hi,
My 2003 Elantra GT has 25,000 miles on it. Until last summer, it was consistently getting about 30 mpg. Last July it dropped to 24 mpg. We've taken it to two dealerships. One was useless. The second said that they air intake was loose; they fixed that and the mileage went back up immediately to 28-30. After three weeks, though, it dropped back down to 23-24. We took it back to the second dealership today and now they can't find any problem with it (the air intake is in place).

Suggestions? Anyone else been through this before with a 2003 or thereabouts Elantra?

Thanks