Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

12829313334169

Comments

  • jprybajpryba Posts: 201
    I took the car to the dealership again today, and they had one of their higher-up techs drive the car with me riding along. He said he could tell the wheels were not properly balanced. The service advisor said that early next week they would be able to rebalance the tires using whatever machine it is they have for these very special rebalancings (Hunter GPS something, I think). So, we'll see if that fixes the problem.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    The cabin filter installation was quick and pretty easy. I made it trickier for myself by not bothering to fully remove the glove box, but it wasn't impossible. And now for a few seasons of cleaner cabin air!
  • drmpdrmp Posts: 187
    Just bought a used 2000 elantra with 43k without owner's manual. I figure that it needs tranny fluid change but don't know what kind of fluid is required since manual is lacking. Is it dexron 3? Can anybody tell me where I can get the owner's manual? Thanks.
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    There is an on-line Owners/Shop manual for Hyundais at:

    <http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/>

       I found this info for your car under Lubricants:

     
      Applies to: Elantra 1998-2000
    GROUP
    Transaxle/Transmission Automatic Transaxle System

    &#65279;
    LUBRICANTS
    Items Specified lubricant Quantity
    Transaxle fluid lit. (U.S. qts., Imp.qts.)
     GENUINE HYUNDAI ATF SP-II, DIAMOND ATF SP-II OR AUTRAN MMSP-II
     6.6 (6.9, 5.8)
     
    Drive shaft oil seal lip
     Automatic transaxle fluid
     As required
     
    Sliding part of bushing
     Chassis grease SAE J310, NLGI No.0
     As required
     
    Selector lever sliding portion
     Multipurpose grease SAE J310, NLGI No.2
     As required
  • goofy10goofy10 Posts: 17
    My Elantra just rolled 15,000 worry/trouble free miles!!! I called the dealer to find out about the service and they want $130 for it, if I have platnium plugs. The price seems alittle ridiculous and what the heck are platnium plugs? One dealership I called didn't even mention them in the price. Can I just take the car to the same place that I get the oil changed at cause they usually check everything the same stuff thats on the inspection list?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,618
    First, the dealer should be able to tell you if your Elantra has platinum plugs or not, assuming it still has the factory plugs. I'm not sure why they'd have this condition unless they plan on trying to sell you new plugs, which even if they aren't platinum would not be necessary at 15,000 miles. Second, you can have maintenance done anyplace you want (you can even do it yourself), but to avoid issues with warranty support be sure to use fluids and parts that are either Hyundai or Hyundai-spec. And keep records of all service.
  • ramblin_moramblin_mo Posts: 29
    No real mention of a time to replace the timing belt in the owners manual. They do have a note at 60K and 120k saying (R* replace)
    "*For California, this maintenance is recommended, but not required"

    Does that mean if you're not in California, don't worry about it or that it should be replaced at 60? and 120K?

    How much labor is involved to inspect the timing belt? Is this a ploy to squeeze dollars out of consumers by having the belt inspected every 30K miles?

    I would lean towards timing belt replacement at 90K. Any thoughts on this?

    Auto transaxle fluid change seems a bit long at 105K. I would lean towards a full flush at 60K.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,618
    Depends on how much risk you like to take, given that on the Elantra a broken timing belt will probably ruin your engine (and you can bet if you didn't replace it at 60k, you'll have trouble getting the engine repaired under the powertrain warranty). Personally, I'm risk-averse when it comes to such things, so I'm going to change mine at 60k.
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    I agree with backy. If the book says 60K and the engine blows because you have not changed the belt you can kiss your engine warranty goodbye (actually its four years or 60K, whatever comes first).
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    I've taken my car to the dealer twice with complaint of a rough
    feeling accelerator pedal. The first time they lubed it and they second
    time they repositioned it. Both times I left with a good feeling pedal but
    the roughness (given a few months) would always return.

      After looking at the cable its no wonder it needs lube every 6 months.
    The cable leaves the firewall near the brake booster the makes a sweeping
    90 right turn into the valley of the engine (between the cam towers) then
    leaves the engine on the passenger side and makes a 180 degree half turn
    to the right and back to the accelerator pulley. The heat of the engine
    over time is enough to dry out the cable until its travel feels rough.
    Some people are having this cable replaced but I feel in time the
    roughness will come back. The fix is easy:

    1) At the pulley end of the cable there is a small black rubber boot. Pull
    this boot off of the notch in the end of the cable and towards the pulley.

    2) You will see a small gap (or play) in the end of the outer cable where
    the inner cable exits and heads towards the pulley.

    3) Take a can of you favorite light oil lube (WD-40,Superlube,etc) and lay
    the tip of the spray tube against this gap (where the inner cable exits
    the outer shield.

    4) To contain the spray take a single paper towel (rip it into a very
    small towel) and wrap this around the end of the spray tube where it meets
    the cable.

    5) Now spray the lube for about 30 to 40 seconds in one continuos spray.
    The paper towel will saturate and when it does it creates a seal that
    forces the oil into the cable quite a ways.

    6) When done clean up the area and slide the black boot over the cable end
    (back into the notch).

        I now have an accelerator pedal that feels smoother than new. Well
    worth the effort which was nill. If you cant get the tip of the spray
    tube located right I use a small teflon flexable tube that snaps into the
    WD-40 tip opening and is about 2 an 1/2 feet long. This way I can keep the
    can upright at all times. The higher the pressure in the can the better
    this works.

      Just though I would share this as I cant be the only one with a rough
    pedal. It feels soooooooooo good now ;)
  • jprybajpryba Posts: 201
    Just when I thought I only had a vibration issue to deal with, the snap snap snap has returned to my front brakes. The last time this happened, the dealership said it was some clip (or fastener) that had warped, and they replaced the front pads and sets. The first time it happened, taking everything apart and putting it back together worked (for maybe a week). I'm beginning to wonder if the vibration I'm getting on the highway has something to do with my brakes, although usually the only brake-related vibrations you should get on the highway are while actually braking.

    The brakes started to vibrate again on the highway while braking just about a week ago. The last time they vibrated like this was about 2 months ago, and that's when I took the car in to get the rotors looked at to begin with. I'm beginning to wonder if the dealership accidentally messed things up that very first time they turned my rotors, or maybe this was some defect that was in the car all along but wasn't uncovered until the rotors were turned (and this wasn't the dealership's fault at all).

    This is the last chance the dealership has to fix it. If the snap snap snap comes back after this repair attempt, I think I may have a Lemon-tra on my hands. Say it ain't so!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    If the rotors are turned with the cutting tool moving too quickly across the face of the rotor you will get a "spiral" cut on the friction face. This can cause the pads to pull the caliper against the alignment stops to one side and then "snap" back. Seen this before.
  • jprybajpryba Posts: 201
    Thank you so much for your input. I'll call up the dealership tomorrow and tell them what you said. Of course, I'm sure they'll replace just about everything they can this time anyway (pads, rotors, etc), and that means there won't be messed up rotors like the last 2 times. Do you think any of this may also relate to my vibration issues, though?

    Oh well, it's all wait-and-see right now. I'll let everyone know what happens. Thanks again.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Oh, yeah you can get a vibration. And if the spiral is bad enough, it can even move a "floating" caliper when the brakes are not applied. Have to admit that the first time I saw this it took me a while to figure out what the heck was going on. Very strange sound when you first hear it. Sounds like something is rhythmically tapping the caliper with a hammer as the wheel goes around.
  • jprybajpryba Posts: 201
    The dealership called to tell me they need my car for another day. They are going to swap the tires and wheels from another Elantra and see how that affects the shaking in my car. Their top tech, whose name rhymes with Hyundai (Jon Day -- I hope this is a good sign!), will also be doing the work.

    Jlflemmons, the service advisor understood what you told me about the rotors, and he said that they'll take a look into that as well tomorrow.

    I think today they tried balancing the wheels again and then had one of their other techs take it out for a spin. That wouldn't help a brake issue, of course, but that's part of the normal procedure for the vibration-on-the-highway problem.

    BTW, my loaner vehicle is a brand new Santa Fe. So, no big rush to get the Elantra back to me... ; ) (Am I the only one who doesn't actually mind that new Hyundai smell as well?)
  • jprybajpryba Posts: 201
    The dealership replaced my front rotors and they also took the tires & wheels off of another Elantra and stuck them on mine. The car seems to be back to normal now. I'm going on a road trip this weekend, so that'll be a good test to see if my problem is totally solved.

    My usual service advisor wasn't there today, but I will call him up in a few days and see if he has anything else to note from what they did in the last 2 days.
  • jprybajpryba Posts: 201
    Now I'm hearing a chirping/rattling noise under the hood when I first start the car in the morning. It gets worse if I start up the a/c (or the defroster, which uses the compressor as well). I also hear the same chirp noise when I back up, and then it goes away when I put the car into Drive, but then I hear a buzzing like noise as I press on the gas pedal the first few times. It then goes away, only to come back after I have the car sitting around overnight (or longer).

    The same noise happened in both dry, mid 70's weather in the middle of the day, and then this morning after it had rained part of the night (and the temp was 63 or so, and slightly humid). So, I don't think it's weather-related. Maybe it's just a belt starting to slip. It happens (it just seems to happen to me LOL). Time to call the dealership again!
  • Hey guys, I'm having serious problems with the clutch on my 5spd 2001 Elantra GLS. Yesterday I just had a third clutch installed on my car. My first clutch went at 18,000 miles. The second one went 16,000 miles after that at 34,000. The dealer insists that it is my fault, that I am wearing out the clutch by riding it. I am not riding my clutch, or using it to hold a hill, or anything of that nature. In both cases the clutch went in just over a year so I had to pay out of pocket both times. I want to somehow prove to Hyundai that it is not my fault so I can get my money back. Has anyone had a similar problem? Or know of any issue with this car that might 'cause my clutch to wear out in 18,000 miles or less?
  • 5port5port Posts: 395
    Yes, someone else had the same problem and I dont remember if I read it on Edmunds or some other Elantra related Web page. He went thru the same thing as you (replace clutch twice) only to discover on the third change that his flywheel was not right. Some thing about it being not flat.I believe the dealer replaced the flywheel under warranty and that solved it. Sorry if I sound vague but I read this about a year ago and dont remember where. Hope it all works out for you as no one wants trouble with their clutch (and I believe you dont ride it).
  • jacobi1jacobi1 Posts: 32
    Just a quick update:
    Hyundai Canada has approved the painting of my door trims and back quarter pannels. The National hyundai rep came down to look at my car and came to the conclusion that the doors were not 'flush' with the body, therefore leaving some of the car exposed to salt and sand damage. Overall, I'm very excited and please with the way this situation has been handled. However it did take a long time for them to recognize that it wasn't just 'wear and tear' but a defect in my cars build. My dealership has also been fantastic.

    After 70000km's my car seems to be running pretty good. It's certainly not as 'tight' as it was when I first bought it. There's much more shakes and rattles then there was 8 months ago but that is to be expected on a 'cheap' car. Overall, I'm satisfied.

    Enjoy the drive.
Sign In or Register to comment.