Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

don1

i don't know what lawyers you talked to, but my lawyer would jump at a chance like this. your situation is a lawyer's dream. check around... :sick:

5port

Same thing happened to me in my 1990 Eagle Talon Tsi Turbo AWD. Stepped on the brakes approaching an intersection and the pedal would not move. Just stayed solid as if it were stuck. No amount of foot pressure would make it move. Emergency brake scrubbed a little speed off before I t-boned a van at the intersection. No airbags in 90 model. Car was investigated...nothing found wrong. I was sued for 2.25 Mill. 7 years later...case dropped. Car totaled (2 yrs old).

Sorry to see it happen to someone else.

dawnrain

I bought a used Elantra 2001 in Feb. 2005, and there are 48k miles on it when I bought it. Now I have two questions on my car and I cannot find it in the past messages. Hopefully somebody can give me some clues.

1) check engine light: the check engine light frequently be on. I found it is on most often when there are much gas (e.g., more than 3/4 full tank) or little gas (e.g., less than 1/3 tank) while it is off when there are about 1/2 tank of gas. My friend said it may be because I didn't screw the gas cap tightly after I fill in gas. But each time I screw the gas cap to my best and donot stop unitl I hear the click more than three times. has anyone experienced the similar problem? Is it serious? Can I pass the emission test when the CEL is on?

2) The tires of my car need to be replaced now. Are there any recommendation for the new tires? I heard that some tires can reduce the noise and shimmy of the Elantra but I don't know the details.

Thanks a lot!

Dong

backy

If the check engine light has been on for over two weeks with the gas cap tightly seated, it's probably something else, for example the gas cap itself could be defective or it could be an oxygen sensor. Is the car still under warranty, that is, does it have less than 60k miles on it? If so, you should take it into the dealer since the problem is most likely covered under warranty.

For replacement tires, I've been very happy with the Kumho Ecsta 716 HP4s I bought last fall for my '01 GLS. They are quieter than the OEM Michelins, provide a nice ride, and good handling. Also quite inexpensive. I've had no shimmy problems with either the original Michelins or Kumhos. I had the Kumhos installed at Discount Tire (nationwide chain) and they had one of the Hunter balancing machines that seem to do the best job on the Elantra, and they also torqued the lug nuts by hand to avoid over-tightening (another potential cause of wheel shimmy).

neillnads

Hi is there anyone who can help? I've got a 2000 reg Hyundai Accent 1.5 cdx I've recently had the car mot'd and it passed although the garage said the brakes were a little low. A week later when i was braking i heard a tapping noise and felt a tapping in the brake pedal similar to when the abs kicks in. the problem was intermittent. I've had the brakes replaced and the problem is still there. Any suggestions????????

sformoso

That noise is perfectly normal. In fact, it might even happen even after your car is 5 years old. It's just the metal contracting as it cools.

sformoso

I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS. I've been having huge problems with the in seat airbag's wiring. According to Hyundai, the electrical cables for the air bags can be sliced by the seats' sliding mechanism.

I had it repaired once (Hyundai refused to document) and now I am taking it back for the same problem.

Has anyone else experienced this problem?

doohickie

I had a similar problem with a brand new Ford Taurus. It sounded like it was coming from inside the dash. Took it in a couple times before they found it, but it turned out to be a loose vaccuum tube under the hood, right by the firewall. They tie strapped it to something else running nearby and the noise has been gone ever since.

I suggest giving up on looking for stuff in the glovebox area and try looking under the hood.

vegasjay

I have a 2005 Elantra GLS with the standard tape deck radio. How do I remove the radio to make the connections to the cd changer? Help is appreciated.

doohickie

I've read through about the last year's worth of problems. I've read about transmission problems, water pump failures, shimmies, bad brakes, lousy dealer service, etc. Some of these problems sound scary. On the other hand, the value of Hyundais in terms of what options you get for the money are unbeatable. And when you read reviews of Hyundais, the writers all laud the automaker as a potential rival to Toyota and Honda in terms of quality. I'm considering buying a new 05 Elantra GT 5-dr. AT. Now that I've read this thread, I wonder whether it will be worth it. Are the problems I'm reading about isolated cases, or is all the good press Hyundai getting a little too optimistic? If I bought an Elantra and ended up with a car that shimmies over 70 mpg after six months of ownership, I would be sorely disappointed.

Also, for someone 6'-2" who wants a car with reasonably good mileage for suburban commuting on the plains of Texas, would you recommend looking at the Tiburon (2.0 4-cyl w/ AT) in lieu of the Elantra?

Other cars I am looking at: Focus, Scion xA, Kia Spectra, Suzuki Aerio (although the Aerio's forum is scarier than this place!) I currently have a 95 Ford Aspire (aka Kia Avella) with 115,000 miles as my primary commuter. It is a very plain car, but has always gotten 30-40 mpg and has been very, very reliable... so Korean nameplates don't necessarily scare me off.

backy

Before you get too scared off by reports of problems on the Elantra, go take a look at the problems on other small cars. None of them is immune to problems. Consider also that only people who have problems with cars report them in the Elantra Problems discussion. Over 100,000 Elantras are sold each year.

I think you'll find the Tiburon to be more cramped and have a much harsher ride than the Elantra, but you can test drive one and see what you think. The xA has a harsh ride also. For suburban commuting, I think you'll find the Elantra, Focus, Spectra/Spectra5, or Aerio more of a fit. Also look at the Mazda3, it's a very nice car--be sure to check its A/C on a hot day though, there are reports by some buyers it doesn't cool very well.

doohickie

Thanks, backy. I was hoping you would answer; you seem to be one of the authorities on this board.

I looked at the Mazda3, but the value just doesn't seem to be there. Maybe their quality is better than that of some of the others here, but it just doesn't seem like it compares well- costs more than a grand more than the others, and not nearly as well equipped, not to mention the mileage isn't quite as good.

I've heard mention of number of defects per 100 vehicles. Where can a person find that information? Also, I wish there was a way to classify the defects. Without getting into details, it would be good for the owner to simply rate whether the defect or problem made them wish they hadn't bought th car. I mean, a broken radio is a pain, but a blown engine is a REAL problem, you know?

jlflemmons

You hit a key point on "problems with Elantra" in that many folks problems can be traced back to dealer service issues. Check with Hyundai owners in your area and see how they like the dealer service dept. I have owned two Elantras, an '02 and now an '05. The '02 had one minor warranty repair which the dealership took care of on the first trip. The '02 also had a minor annoyance that wasn't really a warranty issue, but the dealer took care of it anyway. The '05 had a wiper blade that didn't sweep cleanly and the dealer changed it out on the first oil change, which was complimentary.

Just trying to state that the vehicle seems to be a solid reliable car, but if the dealer stinks even minor issues will seem horrendous. I have enjoyed both of mine. The only reason I got out of the '02 was due to a shoulder injury and a 5spd not being compatible! For what it is worth, the auto shifts just fine, but the 5spd is a lot more fun.

Jim

smith20

I think Hyundai makes good cars. I think it's getting to the point where the odds of having a problem with a Hyundai car are pretty similar to any of the other automakers. The risk of defects is something no new car buyer can avoid.

We bought an Elantra GT Hatchback with AT in May 2004 and haven't had to use the warranty so far. I was a little nervous about rotating the tires due to the shimmy reported on some Elantras, but we had that done a few months ago and I could not tell any difference in the driving feel. Bottom line is we're very satisfied, so much so that at this point I am pretty sure our next car will be a Hyundai.

backy

There are surveys done by J.D. Power that report defects per 100 vehicles. They do two surveys, one after 90 days of ownership and one after 3 years. (They do many other surveys too, but those are the two I am most familiar with.) Hyundai has done very well in the past couple of years on the 90-day survey, ranking along with Honda and Toyota. J.D. Power just released their survey for 2002 models and while Hyundai was a little below the survey average for reliability at 260 defects per 100 cars (average was 237), they improved 31% over the 2001 models and outranked makes like Volvo, Jaguar, Nissan, Mitsubishi, Mercedes-Benz, Saab, Audi, VW, and Mini. That's an average of less than one defect per year. Also the difference between the top make, Lexus (139) and Hyundai was just a bit over one defect per car. Consider that the "defects" reported by the owners in the surveys included wind noise, check engine lights coming on, and interior squeaks and rattles. And big things like trannies falling out.

If J.D. Power had asked me about my '01 Elantra when it was 3 years old, I would have had to report all the "problems" the car had had up to that point: side air bag recall (fixed before delivery), check engine light coming on twice (once because of a defective O2 sensor, replaced under warranty; once because DW didn't tighten the gas cap enough); wind noise at driver's A pillar (fixed by dealer); interior rattle when car is cold (reduced but not fixed by dealer despite multiple attempts); squeak in clutch pedal (fixed by dealer); and I think there was another recall in there somewhere. All of these things except the O2 sensor were taken care of during normal maintenance visits. But the car has never failed me, nothing major has happened, and it still runs and looks (except for some dings) new. My '04 GT has had a couple of recalls (gas line seal and airbag reprogramming) and some condensation in one of the headlight covers; these were taken care of during normal maintenance also and the car has run flawlessly since new.

kent5

I am considering such a used car. Just wondering if anybody runs Hyundai to such a high milage. Not sure if it will end up soon. Thank you!

backy

I would only get one of those if it is REALLY cheap, like around $1000. That's because good used Elantras with under 50k miles are very inexpensive, $5k or less. Also be sure if you buy it that the timing belt was replaced; it was due at 60k and also 120k miles. A major servicing should have been done at about 120k miles--that is a significant expense. It would be a good sign that the car has received maintenance.

kent5

I've seen the owner of this car. I think he is kind of tough to it: 1,200 miles/week. Since I saw dark red stains on the engine oil dipstick, so I gave it up. I guess It might not work for another 10,000 miles. Anyway, this car is awesome, it still runs well, at least for today.

rvail

I have a 2003 Elantra I bought new. It's approaching 73K miles with absolutely no problems...until yesterday. While on a short run around town, the AC decided to stop working (I'm in Dallas where it's hotter than you know what). When I shut off the engine, wait a few minutes & restart, the AC will work for a minute or two. I took it to a local shop (mom & pop). The AC juice is fine.

Here's the weird thing. When the AC quits working, the engine gets very hot, almost immediately. The radiator fans kick in, but do no good. The coolant level is fine. The only way I could keep the engine in a safe operating range while driving home (still running hotter than normal) was to run the heater full blast and keep the rpms as low as possible (2K or less). It's like when the AC compressor quits, coolant stops circulating through the engine. I'm thinking the thermostat must me electronic, instead of mechanical (thermo spring) and somehow tied to the circuit that affects the AC. If this is true, might be as simple as a bad relay somewhere in the circuit. I have no idea, but the engine overheating seems directly related to the AC failing. I will take it into a dealer first thing next week. Will be another long drive with the heater running full blast.

Any ideas??? I've searched the posts, but found very little on overheating and AC problems.

kev02gt

Could it be a belt problem? Looked at the owners manual and the AC compressor is on a separate belt than the water pump however, just an idea. Perhaps it's worth a tow fee though to avoid engine damage. May want to call dealer ahead of time to see if they will tow for free or chip in.

rvail

I'm thinking it's a bad thermostat. I believe there is a relay that kicks out the AC if the engine runs too hot. I may try to change it out myself, tomorrow. If that doesn't do it, it's off to the dealer Tuesday. I started it up and watched it real closely. The AC shut off when the temp started to rise. The AC compressor belt looks fine. Clutch engages & disengages fine.

kak1

I have a 2001 Elantra and the air bag light on the dash is on. It has been on for about a week now and I was just wondering if this has happened to anyone else and how important it is. Also, I have to keep replacing my headlights. Every few months I need to buy a new one. any ideas?? Thank you

backy

Have the airbag light checked out immediately by the dealer. It could relate to a problem that would prevent an airbag from inflating. Before I bought my '01 GLS, it had a problem with the side airbag wiring that was fixed by the dealer before I took delivery. The airbag light was on due to the problem. It was fixed under a recall.

As for the headlamps, if they both go out at the same time it's not the bulbs but some kind of electrical problem. It's probably something other than the bulbs in any case--bulbs should last much more than a few months. I finally had to replace one headlamp bulb in my '01 GLS a few weeks ago. The other is original.

lightsearcher3

Just bought a new 2005 Elantra.

I am told (and fully believe as true) that new cars do not require the old
"first oil change at 1000 miles" to clear the motor oil of micro-shavings
and things from early wear-in of a new engine.

But I have a related question about the oil that comes already in the car.

Because motor oil does have a "shelf life," and since the oil in a car bought
late in the model year may have been sitting in there possibly for months,
would it be important to get fresh oil into the car (thereby removing the oil
that may have indeed been sitting in there for many months before purchase)?

Inquiring new car owner begs to know, thanks !

jeff94vic

On a '94 Elantra, is this something that can be done easily yourself, or does it need to be done at the shop?

5port

lightsearcher3

I too believe the oil in a new car should be changed at 1000 miles for the reasons you give. Dealers may not agree with us.

As far as the oil that sits in a new car on the lot...that is a good question and I never thought about it. All the new cars I have bought since 1986 were all sitting on lots waiting to be bought. I never had an oil related failure in any new car. My present car (an 01 Elantra GT) has a biuld date of June,26,2001. I bought the car in Oct, 2001 so the oil was 4 months old and made the trip from Korea. Worry not...enjoy your new car.

trafficboy

My 98 accent gsi is still kicking with 165,000 miles. Just thought you would like to know....

don1

congrats on your longevity! just wondering what problems you may have had(if any)during this time? timing belts,etc. thanks....

trafficboy

I know this the elantra forum but hey... no problems with my 165,000 mile 98 accent gsi... did all my belts every 60,000... oil changes every 3,000 etc...I even have the original clutch (still going!!) I am getting a slight hesitation recently... but I am still going... it has to this day never stalled or left me for dead.....

jpryba

My 02 Elantra just hit 37K miles this past week. I decided it was time for new tires, as my current set of Michelins were about ready to fail the Abe Lincoln head test. (The tires were replaced once around 10K miles, so getting 27K out of the next set is fine for OEMs, I guess.)

So, I went to an area Discount Tire, asked for Kumho Ecsta 716s, and drove away about an hour (and $360) later. There was a pretty bad shimmy that would come and go at highway speeds, so back to Discount Tire I went. I had asked them to check the RFV for the tires beforehand, and all were below 18 lbs. I looked over a copy of the TSB from the Hyundai WebTech site in further detail and noticed something about having to drive around for 10 miles or so to get an accurate RFV value. As I had already driven around that much with the new tires, they checked the RFV again. This time, one of the tires was at around 32 lbs! So, they replaced the bad tire and sent me on my way.

The shimmy has gone away for the most part, but maybe a day or two later I started to get a slight (but constant) "rumbling" at 65-75. In some ways, it's more like "road feel" than a shimmy, but I'm not sure why it took a day or two to appear. I don't remember getting this same sort of road feel in the OEM Michelins when they were properly balanced.

For those who have Kumhos on their Elantras, did you have a slightly rougher-feeling steering wheel for a while compared to what you had before, or do you suppose I need to get Discount Tire to try balancing my tires again? (They don't have the Hunter GSP9700, but they have a similar Hunter model which they say does the same things. I might break down and have another local tire shop with a "real" GSP9700 give it a try, and then if they can fix the shimmy, I'll present their bill to Discount Tire and see if they'll reimburse me for something they should have done right to begin with...)

I suppose there is also a chance that another tire has gone bad, especially because the car was shimmy free for a day or two after getting one of the other tires replaced.

Any other thoughts?

lynbus

i also have 2001 elantra.....nothing but problems since purchased new.....air bag drivers side, connector beneath seat, repaired three times.......passenger air bag side seat...whole unit replaced......unwarrantied would have cost over $1500.....front headlight bulbs both replaced at least twice maybe three times...can't remember i was in the shop so much......battery replaced before two years up....second battery started leaking acid within three months....was not warrantied because i did not pay for it.......i just keep cleaning it and adding water....i'll be *&^%$ if i have to pay for a new one at this point of the game.....now the worst problem......check engine light ......after big tranny slam.....going in next week.......we'll see what happens........good luck .......i will never buy a hyundai again.........

backy

I've had no problems with shimmy or any other way with the Kumhos on my Elantra, over the first 4k miles. The shop said they used a Hunter machine to balance them, but I didn't note the model number.

lebanonoz

Sign up at www.hmaservice.com (Hyundai's Service Web Site) and you can get this information with pictures. Once you are registered and signed in,
Click on the words "Service Information" right under the Hyundai logo on the left side of the window. In the new window that opens, click on the Tab named "Shop". Fill in "Elantra" for the model and "2005" for the year right under the list of tabs. Then double-click each of the following to open a document that shows you how to take out the radio: Body Electrical system - Audio and Antenna - Audio Unit - Removal.

Before you start their instructions put the steering wheel as far down as it will go and move your gear shift as far away from the dash as you can (automatic stick it in L).

I would also add a step 4.5 that says slowly and carefully pry out the dash panel with a dash panel removal tool ($5 at an auto parts store) starting at the air vent to the left of the steering wheel. Go slow and use your fingers as as much as you can to prevent denting up the dash panel or the dash.

"Disconnect the connectors from the instrument facia panel" means unplug all of the electrical connectors from behind the dash panel you just loosened. They all squeeze top and bottom if I remember correctly.

If you aren't comfortable pulling out the dash panel then just have a radio installer do it. It's really not that hard but don't try to do it in a hurry.

seandc

Hi all,
We have a problem that's causing our 2004 Elantra GT with 5-speed MT and about 30,000 miles to get really poor gas mileage (averaging 23 mpg now versus 29 mpg a year ago). We've taken it to two dealers that have not been able to find the problem. Anyone have a recommendation for a dealer (and maybe even the name of the mechanic) in the DC/Baltimore area that has diagnosed and fixed a tricky problem with your Hyundai?

Thanks!

mdballa

Im am trying to find where the fuel filter is located on my 01 Elantra. Because if all possible i would rather change it on my own than pay outrageous prices for a mechanic to replace a 8 dollar part. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

jossante

hi, from what i read, i may have had a very similar problem when i changed tires, but mine elantra is an 03, so may not apply to u. it took me some time to find out that the new michclins i put on, even though they had the same basic tire size, they did not have an R-15 on the end, but another letter. it turns out the the elantra specifically need this tire and not the one with a different letter because this tire provides the elantra with greater stability. i dont remember what the letter was on the michellins that were cheaper and even sold to me by the Hyundai dealer, saying he was going to save me a few dollars by selling me these tires. hope some of this was helpful

jossante

hi, from what i read, i may have had a very similar problem when i changed tires, but mine elantra is an 03, so may not apply to u. it took me some time to find out that the new Michelins i put on, even though they had the same basic tire size, they did not have an R-15 on the end, but another letter. it turns out the the elantra specifically need this tire and not the one with a different letter because this tire provides the elantra with greater stability. i dont remember what the letter was on the Michelins that were cheaper and even sold to me by the Hyundai dealer, saying he was going to save me a few dollars by selling me these tires. hope some of this was helpful

jkobb

I did my first oil change today at 3086 miles and 3 months time. Does anyone have a pointer as to how to keep oil from going everywhere when you pull the old filter out? :confuse: And by the way be careful the original filters rubber gasket stayed stuck to the car when I took it off, so always check to make sure that you don`t leave it there.Thats the first time that has ever happened to me, but if I would have put a new filter over that other gasket it probably would have leaked.I installed my Fumoto drain valve at this time also.Oil changes are pretty easy on this car since the filter is easy to get at, there is a plastic shield right below the filter but I see no reson to remove that for an oil change.With that Fumoto drain valve the next change will go even smoother.

jlflemmons

Remove that little panel (two 10mm bolts) and you will find that the filter can be dropped straight down and oil doesn't go everywhere.

5port

When installing the new oil filter make sure to apply some oil to the gasket on the new oil filter. This helps to prevent it from sticking to the engine block.

jkobb

Yep , I always out a little oil on the new gasket filters. This was the original filter , first oil change on my new GLS .I noticed on original Hyundai filters the gasket is a soft rubber and they do pull off of the filter rather easy . The filter I put on was Fram Tough Guard, the silver one. I like these because they have the black grippy stuff on them.And I can usually turn them off by hand without a whrench unless I overtightened from the last change.

kdjj5

I was wondering if you ever got this problem taken care of and what it was, because mine began to do the same thing today. Hope to hear from you soon.

ptbrn

I had a new 2003 Hyundai Elantra, I took in into Gosch dealership for
the first oil change, I told the advisor I had noticed water looking stains
around the floor boards, and though it was coming in from under the car.
After putting in four carpets the dealership trashed the inside of my car I am now the proud owner of the quicksand car as the manager Mike Farias calls it.
I feel that owners need to know that not all dealership repair shops should work on their car
Hyundai motor dealership (ie. Gosch) as I see it is herded with other foreign dealerships (ie. Nissan), the problem is that their not always a skilled competent
Hyundai certified technician working on your vehicle. In fact some repair items get damage because the intern works on the vehicle
Because Hyundai sells inexpensive cars even the Manufacturers Rep. at a BBB hearing said "what do you want from a ten thousand car, It's a Hyundai"
Having a Hyundai is like having a Yugo, the dealership does not give it the same attention as they give the Nissan
Be for you place your car in the hands of a Hyundai dealership for repairs check it out, and forget the BBB the memberships are paid for not earned

jlflemmons

Don't think you want to paint with too broad a brush, here. My dealer sells Toyota, Honda, and Hyundai. The Hyundai service group takes great pride in the fact that their customer satisfaction ratings are at or above the other two, and all three are some of the highest in the area.

backy

One thing you can do to help ensure your car will get quality service is find out how many Hyundai-certified techs they have. I've found some dealerships have more than others (if they have any at all). This is no guarantee, but it could help.

5port

***After putting in four carpets the dealership trashed the inside of my car I am now the proud owner of the quicksand car as the manager Mike Farias calls it."
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - --
Can you please explain the term "quicksand car". I assume it means the more we work on it the worse it gets?
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -
***feel that owners need to know that not all dealership repair shops should work on their car
Hyundai motor dealership (ie. Gosch) as I see it is herded with other foreign dealerships (ie. Nissan),"
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ---------------
Just because a dealership is a multi-car type dealer doesnt mean they are bad. My dealership is a Chrysler/Jeep/Hyundai and has been very cooperative and has repaired everything I asked (from squeaks in the rear seat to the Cold Start TSB they never flinched just did it).
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - --
***Because Hyundai sells inexpensive cars even the Manufacturers Rep. at a BBB hearing said "what do you want from a ten thousand car, It's a Hyundai" *
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ----------
The BBB is the biggest waste this side of...I tried to use them years ago with no cooperation. I'm not surprised on their attitude on *cheap* cars. They are funded by who? Nuff said.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ---------
***Having a Hyundai is like having a Yugo, the dealership does not give it the same attention as they give the Nissan
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ------
All depends on the dealer. That statement is too blanket for me to agree with.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - -------------
***Be for you place your car in the hands of a Hyundai dealership for repairs check it out, and forget the BBB the memberships are paid for not earned
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- - ----------------
Thats car buying 101. ALWAYS check out the dealer BEFORE you buy any brand car.

kford

I know that german-assembled VWs, like my 1999 GTI VR6, come with a manufacturer recommendation to NOT change the original oil that shipped with the car until equivalent of 10,000 miles. They fill the car with a specially-formulated, higher-viscosity oil that is designed to help the engine wear properly during the break-in period.

VW does NOT provide this guidance to the American consumer, because we wouldn't listen anyway and would still be inclined to do a 1K or 3K oil change. That's what the service manager at my local dealership told me, anyway.

I don't have any idea if Hyundai does something similar, but just thought I'd share that.

That said, I just did my first oil change on my 2005 Elantra GT (MT) at ~7000 miles. I definitely should have investigated before putting it off and hopefully it doesn't come back to bite me.

What I used:
I replaced it with Valvoline Synthetic 5W30. BTW... I used a FRAM actuator controlled plug replacement that, in my opinion, is better designed than the FUMOTO (spelling?). I have only looked at the FUMOTO online and although it looks well constructed, I think the idea of an actuator is much better. The way it works is that you replace the drain plug with the new actuator plug and then you can screw one of two things onto the end. A cap, when you're using the vehicle, or the actuator insert piece, which comes with a small (10") hose attached. screwing in the hose insert activates the actuator and the oil flows out. Very nice design. Plus it is VERY low profile and when it's sealed with the cap, there is ZERO risk of something turning the valve unintentionally. $12.99 at Auto Zone.

jlflemmons

They have detailed instructions on how to disassemble/reassemble the clutch.

jim

miamixt

With my Turbo Subaru it was 1000 Miles. With the Elantra, it is 3000 Miles or 3 Months, and they made it very clear at the time of purchase. There is only one reason why Hyundai offers one of the Industries top Warranties, if not the top Warranty. It's because they are also experts in the Denial of Warranty work. Your first Oil change at 7000 Miles almost guarantees that you have blown your Warranty coverage, really!

backy

The oil change interval for the Elantra is every 7,500 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first, according to the official Hyundai maintenance schedule in the owner's manual. For "severe service", the interval is 3 months or 3,000 miles. Severe service means one or more of these conditions, with respect to oil changes:

* repeated short-distance driving
* extensive idling
* driving on dusty, rough roads
* more than 50% driving in heavy city traffic during hot weather above 90 F
* towing a trailer

This is from Section 5 of the 2004 Elantra Owner's Manual. There is nothing said in the Owner's Manual about the first oil change, other than the maintenance schedule mentioned above.