Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

jmdchien

After 11 days of ownership. Put 1000 miles on my 2005 GT. Enjoying driving a lot. Did the 1st oil change yesterday. The filter I bought at Wal Mart SuperTech ST-6607 seemed to be one size smaller. So I left the filter unchanged. :confuse:

According to the book in Wal Mart. The oil filter seems to call for Fram 6607, SuperTech 6607. That's what I had in hand. But when I actually saw the oil filter on the car. Well, the original one is bigger. Can anyone tell me what is the right size for the Elantra GT? Thanks.

5port

Cabin Air Filter - From www.hmaservice.com

Before starting, make sure to stick a thin strip of foam adhesive insulation over the front of the filter. This allows the filter to fit more precisely and therefore does not let air pass around the filter instead of through the filter.

1. Open the glove box and remove the 2 rubber stop blocks from each side of the glove box.

First pull the stop block toward you (1).
Then pull the front edge in toward the inside of the glove box and pull it out to remove it (2).



2. Remove the glove box damper by gently pulling the mounting pin out, then feed the mounting pin through the hole. Hold/support the glove box to prevent it from swinging wide open when the damper is removed. Lower the glove box.



3. Remove the 2 screws that hold the metal bracket at the back of the glove box housing. Lower the bracket out of the way.



4. Push up and simultaneously pull towards you the two (2) filter cover tabs. The lower edge will pop out, slide the cover down to separate the cover from the three upper retaining slots.



5. Pull out the old filter and/or slide in the new air filter P/N 97133-2D000 with the arrow facing in the direction of airflow (down in this case).

jlflemmons

For less than five bucks you can get the authentic Hyundai filter from your dealer. Buy it there, keep the receipt along with the oil receipt, and you will be in better shape down the road if any engine warranty issues should occur. These are strong little motors, but think of it as cheap insurance!

FWIW, my Hyundai dealers master mechie still says Castrol GTX 10W30 is the only oil recommended for the central Texas climate, both summer and winter.

And at my dealer, an oil, filter, lube, and fluid top off is $19 including tax. Let's see, now. Oil at $2 a quart x 5 (and you have to do something with the leftover 1/2 quart) that's $10, plus another $5 for the filter ....

Guess I'm getting lazy.

jossante

i am very curious about your problem. my 2003 elanta has 37,000 miles on it and when i have had a front end sound near the wheels, it has been the brakes. i have had the brakes replaced 3 times in the 37,000 miles. the last set, taken off last week, the deal said had 16,000 miles on them and the dealer admitted the brakes looked great and would at least another 16,000 on them. what happens is and i dont know all the official terms is, that a rivet behind the brake pad elongates the slot in which it sets. this causes the pads to move around and make a noise as one starts to brake. the noise will come and go, but i have always had them repaired before long, once that noise starts. it happened on two set while the warranty on the part was still good. i paid for this last set, and then decided to contact Hyundai Customer service. I called on july 8 and called twice since then, always i get a promise from someone, i will get a reply to inform me of the status of my concern. so far, no reply. anyone else having such a problem i sure would be interested to know. the dealer twice told me, hyundai said it was the driving manner of owner. well i'm 64 and had 8 new cars in my lifetime with excellent use of my brakes. i dont ride them like lots of others seem to do. any comments will be appreciated.

jossante

my 2003 elantra has 37,000 miles on it and when i have had a front end sound near the wheels that sounded like metal against metal moving around, it has been the brakes. i have had the brakes replaced 3 times in the 37,000 miles. the last set, taken off last week, the deal said had 16,000 miles on them and the dealer admited the brakes looked great and would at least another 16,000 on them. what happes is and i dont know all the offical terms is, that a rivet behind the brake pad elongates the slot in whick it sets. this causes the pads to move around and make a noise as one starts to brake. the noise will come and go, but i have always had them repaired before long, once that noise starts. it happened on two set while the warranty on the part was still good. i paid for this last set, and then desided to contact Hyundai Customer service. I called on july 8 and called twice since then, always i get a promise from someone, i will get a reply to inform me of the status of my concern. so far, no reply. anyone else having such a problem i sure would be interested to know. the dearler twice told me, hyundai said it was the driving manner of owner. well i'm 64 and had 8 new cars in my lifetime with excellent use of my brakes. i dont ride them like lots of others seem to do. any comments will be appreciated.

jkobb

I use a fram 6607 , works fine and the rubber gaskets don`t seem to pull off like the original filteres did.

miamixt

i bought 04 elantra two weeks ago, 6700 mile,
i found two problem today, but maybe they are not a problem just a common.
one : when i use key start my car but not start engine only open the circuit, i can heart a "ka ka" sound, like a some electronic power on.
two: when i brake down my car, and the car totally stopped, i can heard a "shashasha..." noise, it is short ,in few second ,this noise disappear.
these problem is normal??
thanks lot

I know that Song. Sounds like Shell Shock by New Order? :P

jlflemmons

This is not the friction pad coming loose from the backer plate, but the anti-squeak pad on the back side. One thing that can be done is to remove the squeak pad and put a very thin layer of graphite based or other high temp grease on the caliper contact points.

I have seen these anti-squeal pads come off in as few as 1500 miles. And it isn't just Hyundai pads, either.

vparekh

I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS sedan and at 58K miles, I got the transmission fluid flushed. It has about 65K miles now and I realised that it was giving me trouble in accelerating. I checked the transmission fluid and it was pretty low. I thought that the transmission fluid once replaced should last for 18K miles. Any idea what could be wrong? I have checked for leaks and did not find any.

Is it that the engine is burning more transmission fluid? Is that a cause for worry? Did anybody have the same or similar problem? Please let me know.

Thanks,
Vishal.

jmdchien

Thank you jkobb, you made me feel a lot comfortable using the 6607.

jlflemmons

Ummm, engines do not burn tranny fluid as that is a separate system. I would carefully follow the owners manual for checking the tranny fluid, usually engine must be running, warmed up, and in park, and check it again. If it is still low, add the Hyundai transmission fluid to the appropriate amount. Drive the car for a few hundred miles and check again to see if the level is going down. If so, start looking carefully for a leak. Transmissions don't use oil.

It is important to note here that Hyundai is very particular that you use their tranny fluid.

spmrebel

jmdchien,

Congrats on your new Elantra GT. Try a Purolator 14459 Oil Filter. They are the exact same size as the Hyundai stock oil filters. In fact, they look near identical except for the color.

Hope this helps and happy motoring

Shawn

vparekh

Thanks for the reply. I got the Check engine sign and again the car was acting funny, it did not want to change gears. I got the codes and it showed,
1) Vehicle speed sensor, input and output malfunction
2) Vehicle speed sensor auxilary input malfunction.

Do you advise to go to a dealer or get it checked by a decent auto shop? The dealers will probably charge me hand and leg for that. Any idea how much that might cost?

Thanks,
Vishal.

daveindc

Thanks Smith20. I asked the salesman who talked around my question without answering. I will follow your advice and make an appointment to bring it into the dealership shop and see if they will check it out under the warranty.

kar3

this seems to be the same story a lot of you have but...3 days ago I bought a 2005 elantra GLS 5 speed sedan. I have been trying to break it in right and not go over 55, but today i went over 60 and my steering wheel was shaking. I am going to the dealership tomorrow morning... The service person on the phone said it was going to cost me $95 for them to look at it! i told them there is no way I am paying...its 3 days old and only has 250 miles on it! What about the 5 year bumper to bumper warrenty? I just wanted to know if anyone had any advice for me. I'm really annoyed.

backy

You should be annoyed. In the first 12 months/12,000 miles, everything should be covered, except maybe wiper blades. What they should have told you is that they would only charge you the diagnostic fee if it turned out the problem was not a fault of the car. For example, they look at it and find out the problem is due to a bent wheel from driving over a pothole (not saying this is the case here, just an example). Seems like the service writer needs a lesson in tact.

mary16

I have an '04 Elantra GT. Car has always had this awful noise, that I can only describe as it sounds like there's wood in the front driver side brakes when I brake really hard or when slowing for a light or stop sign. Been to 3 MA dealerships, all say it's "Normal". One dealer replaced the pads and it did nothing to stop the noise. Right that same day the noise was back. Caliper is supposedly fine, all dealerships say brakes look fine and it's normal noise. You know the noise your brakes will make when you are on a steep hill, and the car wants to roll forward and you have to really brake well and they groan from being held like that? It's not a squeal, it's a groan. That's the noise but it's all the time. Anyone care to comment?

jpryba

Actually, I think even wiper blades are covered that first year as well...

jpryba

When doing a test drive, it's ok to bring the car up to 65-75 to make sure there isn't a shimmy. Just make sure you don't rev the engine too much, that's all.

Anyway, let's sum up what you should do about that shimmy...

Before going back to the dealer, check the air pressure -- make sure it's 30-32 psi when the tires are cold. The dealer may have forgotten to check this, and I believe that the tires are overinflated big time during shipment. Even if they did check this, there is still a chance that some tires are under/overinflated while the rest are ok. That could cause vibration issues.

At the dealership, they may just try a normal balancing and send you on your merry way. With the Elantra, though, this is probably not enough. Ask if they can check the radial force variation (RFV) on the tires. If any of the tires come back with an RFV higher than 18 lbs, they should replace them.

Of course, the dealer should check and make sure the rims aren't bent. Chances are they are fine.

Make sure to tell the dealer to tighten the lugnuts to 80 foot pounds. That can make a difference not just with vibration in the steering wheel, but also with vibration from rotors that are warped from the lugnuts being put back on too tight. Air wrenches without the use of a torque-stick is a big no-no!!!

If the dealer can't get it right on this first attempt, demand they swap tires and wheels from another Elantra that doesn't have the issue.

This is a common issue with the Elantra, and Hyundai had better fix it once and for all with the redesign next year. (Perhaps one reason they aren't releasing the new Elantra this year is to give them extra time to figure this one out. Hmm....)

As for down the road when the vibration comes back (it probably will), you'll want to find a reputable local tire shop with a GSP9700 (check out http://www.gsp9700.com for more info) to take care of your tires. Some have also had good luck at Wal-Mart for whatever reason as well

Good luck!

kar3

thanks for both of your help...
so i went to the dealer today...they ended up not charging me anything...and they said the shake was because my tires were not balanced correctly. They rebalanced only the front tires and the problem seems to be fixed.... only time can tell I guess.

jossante

to jlflemmons, i have to differ with your assessment of the front brake problem with my 2003 Elantra. this problem is not about squeaking. It is about severe noise caused by the movement of the brake pads. I have now found my repair reports from Falconi's Moon Township Hyundai dealer. They say the shim come loose. This was 12208 miles. At 19363 miles they say, they describe it as backing plate has worn an oblong hole, allowing backing plate to slide and cause the noise. On the most recent brake replacement at about 38,000, the replace the brakes which have pads in excellent shape, but again the rivet have worn an oblong shape into the hole with it passes. It also seems to me they showed me this oblong wearing at the 12208 mileage mark. So i am curious of anyone else having such a problem.

1racefan

Does anyone know how you get the cover off of the side marker lights on the Elantra (this one is an '02 GLS)? There are no screws to are visible to take them off with, and I don't want to just start prying at them without knowing how they are attached. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

P.S. These are the small, rectangular lights on the front corners of the Elantra that have the orange covers, and are mounded just in front of the front wheel wells.

jlflemmons

One man's squeak is another man's symphony. Either way, the problem I described is exactly what your dealer is telling you. The shim/anti-squeak pad cannot handle the heat/forces generated by the brakes and begins to elongate the mounting hole in the pad. When this happens, the pad can come loose and become lodged in the caliper. Not the part of the caliper next to the rotor, but the back side. This will cause all sorts of noises depending upon how the pad has lodged. The pad is made of a material much softer than the rotor and will not damage the rotor.

As I stated earlier, this is not just a Hyundai brand issue, I have seen it on other brands of brake pads, both foreign and domestic. In the past, these pads were not used, but a paste was applied to the backer plate of the disc pad at installation. This can still be done by removing the anti-squeal pad and applying high temp compound to the backer plate.

jlflemmons

I couldn't find the diagram for that light, but they are sometimes held in with a compression bracket from the backside to avoid drilling extra holes in the fender. When this is done, you can usually reach inside the fender from the backside and remove the socket without removing the lamp housing.

I would go check on my GT, but it is actually raining here in central Texas. Amazing, but true.

vparekh

Hi,

I keep on getting the check engine sign and when I got the code checked it gives the code, P0500 which means "Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal Error Fault". If I turn the engine off and turn it back on, the sign goes away. Is it a serious problem? Can anyone tell me what could be wrong?

I had recently got the vehicle speed sensors (auxilary and input /output) changed as I had thos malfunctioning and the car was not changing gears. NOw it is changing gears properly, but it keeps on popping the check engine sign and the code P0500 from time to time.

Please help.

Thanks,
Vishal.

rilo2002

My 02 Elantra GT (auto) started to develop a rough idle when the transmission is in Drive. The roughness disappears when it's in Neutral. It gets worse when the A/C gets turned on full blast. Has anyone else noticed this happening with their Elantras? I'm hoping its not the transmission, although that'd be under warranty. Any advice is appreciated.

1racefan

I think I tried laying on the ground and looking up under the bumper, but couldn't access it from that route. Maybe this evening I will pop the hood and see if I can get to it that way.

napoleon05

HELP! I have an annoying sound coming from my front driver side wheel when I drive. The irony in this is that the sound goes away or is muffled almost completely when I brake. Thus, I am assuming it can't be the brake pads. I inspected the pads and they look very thick still. I have 36000 miles on a 2001 Elantra GLS Sedan.

The sound comes and goes but has gotten increasingly louder when it occurs and it sounds like there is a big rock in my wheel that makes noise as the wheel turns like this: Wckkkkkkkk, pause 1 second, wckkkkkkkkkkk, pause 1 second, etc. I can only hear it when I'm driving at lower speeds (35mph or less) because ambient noise on the freeway muffles out this sound. Thus, the faster the tire rotation, the faster the sound occurs.

I haven't seen anything like this posted on the forum so I hope somebody may have some input. I did notice the outer edge of my rotors are rusted a bit but I don't think this is what is causing the noise. Something about the caliper or bearings maybe? Please any input would be helpful. Thanks for your attention.

jlflemmons

See msg #1736 and #1751.

Jim

gale1

I have a 2002 Elantra GT with 35,000 mi. and have had what felt like clutch slippage.
This does not happen all the time however, when it does it usually occurs when passing
at 60-75 mph or when shifting gears. You can see/ hear the rpm's go up, but car speed
does not increase. Usually have to let-up on the gas until they are engaged.
Before I go to the dealer (nearest is 95 mi) has anyone else had this issue.

Thanks of any information.

hellie1

Couldn't be happier with my 2005 GLS that I bought a month ago. One problem, when I made a seat adjustment a few weeks ago I now have a *popping* noise (from the seat) whenever I turn corners. Hasn't been fixed by numerous adjustments. Has anyone else heard of this?
Thanks!

jpryba

Try twisting one or both of the knobs all the way in each direction and then put it back where you had it before. That may help out. Otherwise, there are certain positions where the seat can't always hold itself in place. This doesn't have anything to do with the seat on the track. Instead, this has to do with the seat cushion and those 2 adjustment knobs loosening up a little bit over time. The dealer might be able to tighten it up for you, though.

I recall the 01 Elantra having knobs that were VERY hard to adjust. I bet they don't pop either. (Can anyone here with an early 01 vouch for this?)

The seat in my 02 (with the easier-to-adjust knobs) stayed tight for about a year, and then it started to pop here and there after. Basically it doesn't do this unless I really move around in the seat. I also hear a creaking noise when I make right turns at certain speeds (it's worse in the winter, but it's not horrible either -- just mildly annoying and a reason to turn up the radio!). I'm pretty sure the creak has something to do with those knobs, as my body weight shifts toward the left (where the knobs are) during those right turns.

Of course, I can get into my passenger seat and it's solid as a rock (and it never makes noise when a passenger is riding with me).

People on the Kia Spectra board complained when the new model (based on the Elantra) didn't have a very adjustable driver's seat. I bet this had something to do with the issues the Elantra's driver's seat has had. Less adjustments means a more solid seat over time.

BTW, this issue doesn't have anything to do with the seat track issue the IIHS discovered in their tests of the 01 Elantra (which was fixed for 04). The driver's seat in my Elantra stays on the track just fine. It's just the cushion that's shifting ever so slightly because the knobs on it don't stay tight over time.

jpryba

I had complained about a soft brake pedal on my 02 Elantra GLS before, and I wanted to update everyone on it. Basically it has firmed up a little bit over time, but it still seems to require a little bit more force to brake compared to before I had some brake work done on my car. It's been bled 3 times, with the third time being a full system bleed that I paid for (figuring it was normal maintenance to begin with).

Could my pedal be softer than usual because all the rotors have been turned? The pads are all recent. Right now I have about 38K miles, and I had the brake work done a few months ago (when I was around 34K).

I've noticed some recent reviews for the Elantra mentioning the brakes being soft. It's interesting that this didn't seem to be an issue in years past. Why would 4 wheel disc brakes feel kind of soft anyway? Shouldn't they have more "bite" to them? Some have mentioned "progressive" braking before, but if you really have to almost stomp on the pedal to get the car to stop on a dime, that doesn't do much to add to my driving enjoyment.

Any ideas? Should I get both new rotors and pads? Is the master cylinder in my car starting to act up? Or am I just dealing with 2 different Hyundai dealerships that can't seem to properly bleed brake lines? (My car has ABS as well, which I believe has a slightly different bleeding process than non-ABS Elantras.)

backy

I have a '01 GLS purchased in October '00. The seat height knobs aren't real loose, but they aren't hard to turn IMO. They don't seem any harded to turn than the knobs on my '04 GT. Neither seat "pops". I do have the front adjustment set as high as it will go, then I adjust the rear to taste. I don't know if that has anything to do with it.

On the '01 GLS, I do need to wiggle the driver's seat a bit when I slide it front-to-back to make sure it is locked. Once locked, however, it stays put.

backy

The brakes on both of my Elantras are not soft and never have been soft. They don't engage as soon as brakes on some cars, but I like that because I find the brakes in some cars too touchy and difficult to modulate. My GT has ABS, the GLS does not. FWIW, I've used the ABS a handful of times in 16 months, and a couple of those times I tried deliberately to engage ABS. I still think ABS is a useful feature, but it shows that the regular brakes aren't that bad in stopping in slippery conditions--as long as you don't slam them!

jlflemmons

I put 42K on an '02 GLS, and have just over 10K on my '05 GT. Neither has ABS, and both have very firm easy to modulate brakes.

The GLS seemed a little more prone to front lockup in panic situations, but by no means overly sensitive.

As a buddy once said, "My driving style doesn't warrant ABS, and if some idiot does something stupid I want the sound of screaming tires to reinforce his lack of judgement."

jossante

Hi again. much of what u say makes sense to me, now that i have spent so many hours on this problem. do u have any guess why the dealer has replaced the brakes 3 times when the pads are in excellent shape. why would they not simple use this high temperature compound. also on the first occurance of this problem at 12208 miles, they stated "also some noise from front rotors needed machined and the APDS. Could the sliding of the pads cause this. They do slide and make an extreme metal on metal sound. My brakes have been replaced at 12,208 ---- 19363 and recently at about 37,900. You seem to have significant knowledge of this issue which i have not been able to gather from anyone else. Thanks much for what u have shared.

psjr520

My 2001 GLS (32,000 miles) has been having an ongoing problem....when the car sits for more than a couple of hours, after you start it and put it into drive, it hesitates and drives really slow for a few seconds or so before it finally kicks in and drives normally, sometimes it bucks a little bit while doing this. Afterwards, it runs fine. I took it to the dealer last year, and they said they couldn't find a problem, yet it did not do it for a while after that. A few months later, it started doing it again. I notice some difference between gas stations when I fill up my tank...could it be bad gas? I was thinking it sould be the fuel pump or injectors being clogged? :confuse: :mad: :lemon:

murmat

I just had the same problem which eventually became a loud and more frequent crackle sound. I had to have the rear driver side wheel bearing replaced in mid 1500 km journey returning from the Maritimes on summer vacation. My advice, get it fixed soon.

jlflemmons

The dealer may be required to follow repair procedures as outlined by Hyundai and they may prefer to replace the pads rather than issue a multi-step repair procedure where the labor cost would exceed the cost of new pads.

It is not uncommon to lightly turn the rotors on pad replacement. There is only enough material removed to take the "shine" off the rotor. This allows the new pads to seat more quickly, and also eliminates any pulsation felt in the pedal from the rotors being warped. Warpage can come from several causes, some as simple as water splashing up on the rotor when it is hot from braking. This is not specific to Hyundai, but a fairly common occurance.

Let me assure you that the Elantra has a very good braking system, and is well sized for the class and weight of the car.

jlflemmons

Please note that the bearing system on the front and rear are very different, so a noise in the front could be a different cause than a similar noise in the rear.

Either way, my motto is that a problem is easier to check in a garage in the shade, than on the road in the rain!

5port

2001 Elantra GT
30K miles
Driver over 50 (single/no kids)

1) Paint luster is low. Must keep car waxed (every two weeks).

2) Driver seat creaks.

3) Clutch pedal creaks.

4) Windshield has waves in the glass on passenger side (since new).

5) Paint blistered off 1/8 inch hole in front of sunroof (used touch-up paint).

6) Front brakes make that sound that indicates the anti-squeal pad has seperated from the brake pads (sometimes).

7) Front sway bar bushings need lube.

8) Had to use silver enamel touch-up paint on wheels as original finish is starting to chip.

9) Headlight lenses not as clear as new.

10) Leather on drivers seat is starting to wear slightly.

So there you have it. Some are nit picky (9). Just wanted to list the things that will go wrong with your Elantra 3-4 years down. Having said this...I cant find a car that I am lusting after right now. Closest thing I guess would be the Mazda 3 hatch but some days I think that car looks funny. I guess I'm stuck with my baby till whenever. Good thing I still like it :-)

backy

Thanks for the report, here's another one:

2001 Elantra GLS
35K miles
Driver under 50 (married, 3 kids)

1) Paint luster is like new. Wax car 2-3 times a year. Several small door dings.

2) No creaks in driver's seat.

3) Clutch has needed repair on throwout bearing twice, after it started creaking in warm weather. Covered under warranty.

4) Windshield replaced a year ago due to stone.

5) No paint problems that are the fault of the car.

6) Brakes work like new.

7) Ride and handling still like new, smooth and noise-free.

8) Plastic wheel covers don't chip like alloys.

9) Headlight lenses have some tiny pinprick from road grit. Never have leaked.

10) Cloth interior still looks like new.

jlflemmons

Those things drive me nuts. Not just Hyundai, all of them. After about five years or so, they seem to start fogging. Saw a Neon the other day that looked like the lenses were nearly opaque. Ford, GM, Asian, European, all of them that use this material need to reconsider. And those things are not cheap, either!

5port

Backy after reading your post maybe I should complain to the dealer about the creaky clutch. I didnt think the throw out bearing was involved. I could get the Exhaust manifold TSB done at the same time. Hmmm.

backy

Is your clutch anything like this: you hear a "moan" or creak when it is close to the floor, and it only happens in warm weather or when the engine is warmed up? That's what mine was like. The first time it took three trips (or was it 4?) to the dealer to get it fixed. They replaced the throwout bearing, but I'm not convinced that was the real problem because the fix lasted for only about 20k miles. I took it to the same dealer and showed them the service reports from the last time they fixed it, hoping to save us all a lot of time. And all they did was squirt some lube into it!! :mad: Of course it moaned on the way home. That's when I said goodbye to that service department. Took it to another dealer and they fixed it the first time (although they did need to order a part).

hellie1

Thanks for the advice. On checking the knobs again I found I had the front one turned too tightly. I'm hopeful the popping sound came from it trying to work itself out as I haven't heard the noise for a few days now. I agree with the knobs being hard to adjust as you obviously have to be in the seat to get the correct adjustment. Any chance the new model will fix some of the adjustment issues as "knob noise" seems a relatively easy thing to correct?

5port

The answer is yes,yes and yes to the creaky clutch. It started doing it on a 6 hr trip to Virginia from NY. Now it only does it when the car is hot. I noticed now you cant hear it with the car running. Only when its off. After doing some acoustic snooping I thought it was coming from the clutch slave cylinder. Thanks for the tip.

backy

The latest work order noted that two "throw out fork bushings" were replaced. FYI, those are the parts the dealer had to order. When the first dealer said they replaced the throw out bearing, they might have been telling me the truth or they might have been incompetent. I'd vote for the latter, based on their history. Or maybe it was the bushings that needed replacement all along. 20k (15k the first time) seems like a short time for bushings to last. I just wonder if those are covered under the powertrain warranty... my five years is up at the end of October.

5port

Thanks for clarifying. Throw out bushings. The hotter the shaft that holds the clutch and throw out bearing gets the more the bushings bind. Makes sense.

Purchased my car in Oct,2001 so my 5 years should be up in Oct,2006. Since I'm at 30K now I will hit the time limit first.