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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair



  • yardbirdyardbird Posts: 30
    Sounds similar to my problem all right. Along with what I previously stated here's a tip or two:
    1) reset your trip calculator and MPG display everytime you fill up. After the fill-up see how much gas was used by dividing the replaced amount into the trip-calculator-distance travelled. This will give you the most accurate mpg range(get familiar with this). Check the mpg readout on the computer at this time and I think you'll find both very similar.
    Over time you'll know what the overall range of travel is on a full tank of gas. Try to become less dependant on the fuel gauge/trip computer.This will make the screwy readings less bothersome, and frankly,less important of a feature.
    2)Don't run your take on empty,but try a few fill-ups when you're down to 1-2 gallons. Sometimes this will "float" the sensor to a more appropiate and logical reading.
    3) After numerous fill-ups (I now have over 18,000 miles driven)I have found that my readings fluxuate still. For the most part upon fill-ups my FULL indicator is right on or a little off(to the right...@ 3/4). The "miles-until-gas" display will always be in flux. If your MPG display is high(@ 30mpg or +)you'll find the 'miles-until-gas' display adjusting to your average mpg! When your driving habits promote poor mpg, the 'miles-until-gas' will show a crappy range.
    4) the fuel gauge/trip computer is a so-so amenity for me. If it really bugs you...TAKE IT IN UNDER THE WARRANTY and get it replaced.
    Just remember: the odometer is written in stone,no variables. The trip indicator(x2) display can be reset to fit any distance travelled, pretty straightforward. The MPG display changes while you drive and can be reset as you learn your city/hwy driving style. It seems that the 'miles-until-gas' display sometimes is in parity with the fuel gauge display,sometimes not...this is the only potential bug-a-boo for me because if I don't know my FULL TANK range I risk running out of gas. At 18,000 miles every fill-up has indicated 30mpg (+ or -) and I use 400-425 as my overall potential before a mandatory gas stop.
    5) Figure out how much gas you got left when your fuel gauge low fuel indicator goes on...btw, when you get REALLY REALLY low, the 'miles-until-gas' icon will also flash, and the 'miles-until-gas' numerical amount disappears from the display.
    6) Though it seems like a hassle, fussing with this 'fuel gauge/trip computer' has actually been quite the learning experience. At some point I might have my warranty replace it...the hassle is minimal now.
  • I had a 98 Elantra with the same problem. I believe there was a TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) put out by Hyundai to the dealers, but I am not sure if there was a fix. I drove mine 125K and then traded it. Had the problem til the day the car went.
  • 5port5port Posts: 395

    Although I dont have this problem on my GT I have read on the message boards that if you fill-up with the ignition on it cures this problem. Engine does not have to be running.
  • jimpimmsjimpimms Posts: 81
    I just had a 7,500 mi. service on my GT 5-speed. Within the past week, the engine had been racing at 2,000 rpm or better when I braked to a stop; then, after a couple of seconds, would return to normal idle. The dealer's service dept. adjusted or replaced the throttle sensor assembly, which fixed my immediate problem. In addition, they performed an ECM (Electronic Control Module) update, per Service Bulletin 01-36-025. It seems to have cured the lag in second gear, around 40 mph, that many of you have noticed. This fix should hold true for the GLS as well. I hope this helps.
  • yardbirdyardbird Posts: 30
    jofficer- I've tried leaving the ignition on while filling-up and it did'nt work for me. Also I was told it's not a good idea in general to have the ignition on at all during fill-ups.
  • ghenrylghenryl Posts: 2
    We have a black 2000 elantra that has started to peel. Went to the dealer we purchased it from.(The proper vernacular per the dealer is "spotting on all top surfaces") The car has 33000 mi. on it.(paint warranty is 3yr./36000) Dealer says he cant warrant it and Hyundai rep most likely will not. dealer says Hyundai will most likely claim it is caused by acid rain etc. and will not repair. Am waiting to meet with rep (4-6 week wait). Has anyone else had a problem beside pam 49? If pam is still available I would like to hear more of your experience. Thanks
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    ghenryl said --

    "We have a black 2000 elantra that has started to peel. Went to the dealer we purchased it from.(The proper vernacular per the dealer is "spotting on all top surfaces") The car has 33000 mi. on it.(paint warranty is 3yr./36000) Dealer says he cant warrant it and Hyundai rep most likely will not. dealer says Hyundai will most likely claim it is caused by acid rain etc. and will not repair."

    I think that you should stick to your complaint, and make sure that you have a well documented account of how this has happened. Including pictures.

    Paint peeling, in my opinion, should not be caused by acid rain. Paint peeling is caused by poor paint adhesion to surfaces underneath. If this is factory paint then it is a manfacturing defect. I would also not consider going back to that dealership if they keep pedding this nonsense to the public, in the hopes that people would back off and drop the issue.
  • joffficerjoffficer Posts: 169
    I've seen a lot of Ford, GM and Chrysler products with lousy paint. Some look like the paint is coming off in sheets! I knew some people that got their cars repainted (warranty) and other that didn't.I agree with wmoses about the acid rain... that should have nothing to do with paint coming off. It would take a hell of a lot of acid to remove paint on such a new car. There would be a lot of dead lawns around your house!
    I paint Aircraft for a living (as well as other A/C stuff), and the prep before painting is very important! Without a clean sturdy base the top coat won't hold for very long. Stick to your guns, and keep making noise at the dealer/representative level.... or higher if you can get the numbers.
  • jhnep1jhnep1 Posts: 9
    I bought a 2002 elantra automatic new in nov 2001.My daughter is the primary user taking it to college in Dekalb Illinois. This is the wind capital for the state of illinois. When driving into the wind a very loud howl comes from under the hood and it vibrates slightly Took it to the dealer yesterday for an oil change( said to use 5w30 all year) and they said 1 other owner had complained about the wind noise. Hyundai had no response. They had not heard of the problem. Also right hand wiper blade bows with ice and snow on it making it useless even after clearing snow and ice The dealer put a refill in the right hand blade. Any one had a problem with either the windshields wiper blade or the wind noise?
  • joffficerjoffficer Posts: 169
    I tried to post this one a day or two ago so I hope it's not a repeat....

    The other day I took my 2002 GT in for it's first oil change, but that's another story. The other thing I wanted done was to have the door panels tightened. Or at least make the faint buzzing noise go away. The tech there (Hyundai city) told me there was nothing he could do...." it'll go away in the summer". I'm not driving this with that noise for 4-5 months. Not to mention that's a lame excuse, and what ever he did made the noise louder.
    My question is this: The rear of the panel (where the noise seems to come from) is held on with two plastic rivets. How can I tighten them, or get them off? I really don't feel like drilling into them without knowing what's behind them. It seems to me screws would be a better choice.
    Any help would be great!
    ps. They did tell me the "Rep" will be here in a couple weeks, but I'd rather make the noise go away first.
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    joffficer said --

    "The rear of the panel (where the noise seems to come from) is held on with two plastic rivets. How can I tighten them, or get them off?"

    Those are not plastic rivets, but are small finishing caps used to cover up the Phillips-head trim screws underneath. You can get them off by gently digging them out using a nail file (not the cheap sharp-edged kind but the nail file with slightly rounded edges).

    The trim screws will not take too much torque, however, since I believe that they screw into plastic blocks and if the threads are stripped in those blocks, you will not be able to generate any more clamping force.
  • joffficerjoffficer Posts: 169
    the whole thing comes out, or just the center?
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    Just the centre, joffficer.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    I was interested to note that others are having temperature-specific noises in their cars. I had a noise in the dash that began late last fall when temps began to drop, and am also experiencing more light rattles in my passenger door panel. A very light touch on the door as I travel over bumps stops the noise, so I am hoping just a slight turn of the screws will keep it tight. Why Hyundai doesn't seem to test cars in horrible Michigan winters on our frost-heaved and potholed roads is beyond me.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,632
    Based on my experience with many other car makes, Hyundai isn't the only automaker that doesn't test their cars in the horrible Michigan (or Minnesota) winters. Every car I have owned had had some type of squeak or creak in cold weather that is not present in warm weather. My '01 GLS actually is doing pretty good on that score, with only the oft-mentioned passenger door squeak (haven't gotten around to turning the screws yet) and another rattle which I don't think is temperature-related. I've had much worse, including a Corolla that required much application of WD-40 and shims to repair its squeaks, and my '99 GCS, on which the side doors rattle badly in the cold (and the dealer has already replaced the door tracks once). So I'd rather have no rattles, but not bad for a $12,000 econobox.
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    Here's my 2 cents worth...

    I have had 3 Hyundais in Canada (where I am from) and in all cases they lose their trim noises in the Canadian winter.

    Two of my Hyundais (1989 and 1993) had klunk problems in the front suspension (crappy bushings?) which did not go away in winter.

    Maybe the Canadian-market Hyundais are cold-weather tested. I remember reading somewhere that some testing was done in Kapuskasing (Ontario?). It could be that the US market Hyundais are not cold-weather tested. Here in Houston, the weather never gets that cold for me to notice a change in trim noises (not much on my GT).
  • starriverstarriver Posts: 26
    After the break-in period, I tried 70MPH and unfortunately noticed that problem. I went to dealler 3 times to fix this problem. First time, they did some work very soon, I don't know what they did but probably pressure adjust and rotation. 2nd time, they did balance and alignment but it didn't work. I even regret that I did choose GLS instead of GT. 3rd time, Yesterday, they changed all 4 wheels and NO shimmy any more.
  • I have a 2002 Elantra GLS. This sound occurs every 40 seconds for about 8-10 seconds at around 40 mph or above. Does anyone else have this??? They cannot fix this after four tries. Thanks, Susan
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,632
    How loud is this whistle? On my '01 GLS, I can hear a faint, periodic high-pitched noise from the A/C. I've never timed it, but 40 seconds sounds about right. When I posted about this on one of the Elantra forums last summer, the consensus was that it was a normal noise from the A/C condenser cycling on/off. I've noticed similar A/C noises on other cars I've owned; the noise in my Elantra is more pronounced I think because the car is quieter than other compacts I've owned. But I stress this is a faint noise. If yours is loud it could be something else.
  • I have had only three cars in my life; two of them Volkswagens, all of them hatchbacks. I wonder what my affinity for hatchbacks means?

    Car #1: 1967 VW Squareback (parents were original owners). Car #2: 1984 VW Rabbit, which finally crapped out on me this past fall after 17 years of being generally reliable.

    In October 2001 I started looking for a new car. Went to VW first of course, but they had nothing I really liked, let alone at a price I could afford with the options I wanted.

    I really liked the Saab 93, but couldn't stomach the sticker price.

    After much research, test driving, etc. I bought a silver 2002 Elantra GT 5-speed manual with all the available options. I think I paid too much for it, but I'm also having a blast in this car, so I really can't complain!

    I now have just over 4,000 miles on the car, and it had it's first service check earlier this week. I asked them about the gas hatch, because mine sticks constantly - sometimes I have to pull the release lever up to a dozen + times before it will open. The dealer said they'd never seen this problem before (HA, HA - I told them to check out this site), but they suspected it was the cable that runs between the release lever and the hatch door, not the latch itself. In any case, it seems to be working fine for the time being. We'll see if the problem resurfaces.

    My sunroof rattles a little on the right side - which I'll bring up to the dealer next time. Anyone else had problems with the sunroof?

    The RPM gauge seems to always hover at a high rev zone, even when the car is in idle and/or I'm parked.

    The odometer is very difficult/impossible to read during the daylight hours.

    The gas gauge takes about 15 minutes to read "FULL" after I fill the tank... but this has become less of an issue with time. I find that if I turn the car entirely off when I fill up, then let it sit about 5 minutes before starting up again, the gauge will read full.

    Biggest "complaint" with the car? I HATE that there is no lighting in the rear passenger/back seat area. What on earth was Hyundai thinking not to put lights in the back?

    Will be replacing the alloy wheels eventually with some nice CHROME wheels, and will probably put in an after factory stereo system as I am not overwhelmed with the factory stereo performance. Otherwise, I really am loving my car and think the exterior design is funky and fun enough to keep me interested for a long while to come.

    Heck, it even looks like the Saab 93 - without sending me to the poor house!

    Thanks everyone for your comments/reviews here... I've gotten a lot of useful info!

    Cheers, Cheryl
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