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One says you remove the grease cap and bearing
the outer says the drum comes off without doing this
If i display the brake drum on autozone for
a 2005 elantra gls it looks like you take it out without
touching the wheel bearing. confused. anyone done this before.
The 2002 (we're third owners) overheated on my daughter at 60 mph, lost power as dashboard red lights came on, and then she and her brother saw steam coming from under the hood. Radiator leaked in many places, engine wouldn't restart. Towed car to our regular, trustworthy garage. Manager diagnosed: "no start, engine turns over rapidly, removed timing cover, found engine to be in time, checked compression low, added oil to cyls to get compression to come up with no luck. Compression is at 30 psi. Found radiator tank split open at the top, possible compression in cooling system causing radiator to split. Recommend replacing engine and radiator." He estimated $3000 p/l for a used engine of 33K miles and new radiator. He thinks the head gasket may be blown and rings seized, yet will need more time to know. Temperature and oil pressure gauges okay. One CV joint boot is cracked, parts dry. Otherwise, car seems okay and has run well.
An area Hyundai service manager, without seeing the car, thinks the diagnosis is right except that engine may be repairable for about $1500 p/l and with a new
radiator...nearing $2000. "A faulty thermostat likely started the problems...you're daughter had anywhere from a few seconds to a minute to react, good that she got off the road." "This is basically a sound little engine. I've seen a number of cases like what you've described, and your mechanic, and we open up the engine,
replace the head gasket, machine smooth, put it back together and it starts up and runs fine. And at this point, with just a basic diagnosis and I haven't seen the car, he has, we can't be sure that the engine really has no compression, because of the order in which the cylinders fire and no one has opened it up yet." And "if you decide to tow the car up here, I'll be glad to pay for finding out what the problem is, but we're not responsible for the costs of repairs (out of warranties)."
He agreed to call Hyundai of America district manager about any "goodwill discount" since the second owner, my mother, had thermostat replaced and a gallon of coolant added there at 36K miles along with a new timing belt, drive belts, engine flush, power steering flush, induction service, brakes checked...her complaint coming in was A/C was cool but not cold. She had AT fluid flushed there at 34K after buying the car. So when I hear back on goodwill discount yes or no, then we decide on repairing or replacing the engine, and at which location.
I happily drive an '05 Elantra hatchback at 47K miles bought in April from original owner. The community comments I've read so far on overheated Elantras have been helpful. Thanks for your reading and comments to come.
TIA 'backy and the rest of you edmunds Hyundai experts.
Not sure if this helps at all, but wanted to add my $0.02
What you are describing I never heard of. My husband has an 18 wheeler and he had over 900,000 miles before he had to have engine work done with blown head gaskets. And he paid 4 grand to have a used engine put in and all the head gaskets pulled and stuff. But his truck didn't overheat.
My husband and I both have 2008 Elantras now. And I know we have the 100,000 mile 10 yr warranty. And we are the original owners but I sure hope this is not an Elantra thing.
Backy...where are you to post to this? I know you know a lot about Elantras. Am I going to be sorry I bought one now?
And to let everyone know. I have a silver Elantra. And my paint started peeling on the passenger side under the door. Right now it's being repainted. Be careful of your paint. I had a rock hit me too and it chipped off a chunk of paint which within 30 days started to rust on the side of the car over the summer. That's being fixed too with the peeling paint. :shades:
Sorry, but let's maintain perspective here, OK? Cars do fail sometimes. What you have to look at is, how often does a particular model fail? The Elantra would not have racked up high marks in, for example, CR's reliability survey if it has major problems affecting a large percentage of vehicles. I've seen some pretty nasty reports on problems with the Civic. Does that mean it's an unreliable car, in general? No. But say if 1/2 of 1% of Elantras had a significant problem, that would still affect approximately 5,000 of the 2001+ Elantras sold in the US (assuming an average annual sales of 100k). That's a lot of posts on forums like this.
Now, if the radiator+++ problem had happened to my Elantra and it had 51k miles on it and was well maintained (preferably by the dealer, so they could see I was a loyal customer) and still under the powertrain warranty, I would work for the repair to be covered--or at least a significant part of it. Technically it would not be covered under the powertrain warranty, but there is an implied warranty here that such a thing should not happen to a well-maintained car with so few miles on it. That is the point I would take up the chain with Hyundai.
bwr
And the failure is just as you and others here have described. Cruising along without a care in the world, and the thermostat breaks and blocks all coolant flow. When this happens on a fully warm engine at highway speeds, you have seconds to react before things get ugly. Sad fact of aluminum heads, they don't like heat, and they heat up fast.
Good luck.
adding oil to cylinder? I know that shop. That means bottom-of-the-engine damage, more than a blown head gasket... you're better off with a used engine." Hyundai Wash. D.C. area district manager hasn't yet called back the service manager where 36K service was done for second owner about any "goodwill" costs coverage for this out-of-warranties car. I'll work up the line with HOA for covering some costs, have a used engine with warranty put in by our usual shop. A nearby dealer wants $400 to tear down and diagnose and also favors used engine v. repair. Most important part here is my daughter and son weren't injured. Secondly, Elantras are usually reliablep; this car's condition makes it worth repairing v. salvaging. A good Thanksgiving to all. Stay tuned. '57.
also, is there a way to tell if the engine is the factory engine, not a replacement?
Sorry I didn't pick up on this initially. All my vehicles use gauges and it wasn't until this morning that I noticed the symbol you describe as being below the needle movement of my temp gauge.
I'm just a little confused as to why the engine would be damaged just like that? I'm not engine technical but from what my sister told me, the mechanic said oil leaked (?) into the crankshaft damaging the engine block? Would someone that is more versed on this subject be able to explain?
What is on the front left side of a Hyundai Elantra that might be sensitive and cause a domino effect reaction that will damage the engine?
Thanks.
If she has comprehensive/collision insurance, she needs to contact her agent. As the engine damage is the result of an accident, she *might* be able to file a claim. Be prepared, the insurance company may use the argument that by driving the car while damaged she caused additional engine damage.
Unfortunately, she only has liability on the car and its out of warranty. :sick:
thank you
Cost wise, yeah, not cheap. The transaxle must be removed to replace the clutch. And this is something you need to get done before you get into a situation where you need to get the car moving in a hurry, because with a worn clutch that isn't going to happen. Get bids for the work. I have heard of several incidences where the dealer was actually cheaper than private garages for this repair, and you get a warranty to boot. Good luck.
First, the vehicle:
2005 Elantra GLS auto
Miles: 67,000
Purchase date: 10.2004
Date replaced: 1.2010
Area: Chicago - 0 degrees in winter to 90+ in summer.
Average usage: Mostly short hop school commutes. City/hwy ratio 75/25. Teenage driver not afraid of a speed limit.
Overall wear rating: With 1 being babied (like my cars) and 10 being a taxi cab, I would rate the use of this vehicle at a solid 8.
I had the technician save the belt for me. At first glance, I thought he gave me a new one. That's how good this thing looks. Closer examination using a magnifying glass shows little, if any, visible deterioration. Rubber is supple, there are no cracks in it at all, and IMO it appears this belt would last significantly longer than 60,000 in any vehicle under any conditions.
I have three of these vehicles and will not hesitate to take them to 90,000 with the original belt. Furthermore, I can find little data of any failures at the 60-90 thousand mile range except for old models where age comes into play. Furthermore, since my original posts last August, I have checked the used car market here in Chicago for this generation model. Many are for sale in the 80-100 thousand mile range running the original belt. I think this is because either most people are not as aware of maintenance as we are or they just don't want to pay the $1,000+ plus for the service in our area (which is the topic of another thread I will be posting).
I hope this sheds a little light on the situation. It's just my car guy opinion. --Jack
PS: I was unable to copy and paste a couple photos, so if anyone can give me a tip on how to add them to the post I would appreciate it. Thanks.
As an aside, for those who can occasionally claim mileage expense/reimbursement and get the federal rate, this is why the allotment for mileage is so much higher than just covering gas; it's meant to cover all operating expenses which include maintenance.
In addition, my online research of various similar forums and used car ads has turned up dozens of posts on this topic. The vast majority of them have the original belt at 80,90,100 thousand miles with one guy in a 2004 at 168,000! The posts that have it failing before 60,000 are usually tied to an internal engine problem that causes misalignment or abnormal pulley tension.
My conclusion is that if your motor has run problem free for 60,000 miles, the chances of the timing belt failing at that point are very minimal. I will not hesitate run my 2006 to 90,000 to perform the same belt inspection and report.
Hopefully I can ease someone's mind to buy a little time if money is tight and they can't swing the replacement cost for a while. --Jack
If this belt was not designed to last 100K+, the Internet posts would be full of people getting this replaced under warranty in CA. In fact, it's difficult to find any posts stating pre-100K failure anywhere, with the occasional rare exceptions mentioned previously.
Considering there must be hundreds of thousands of these cars in CA, I'd like to hear some of their experiences.
You must be thinking of the Civic, or Corolla.
Still a bunch, though!
I was also rear ended in my '05 Elantra four years ago. Had 5K in damages but all has been fine after the repairs. I would have to agree that these cars can take a punch! --jack
That being said, the only time I felt that the pads on an Elantra seemed to wear quickly was on a '05 GT that was driven, shall we say, in a spirited fashion? :shades: The rear pads on a GT were small and non-metallic, hence the faster wear. Just check for pad thickness when changing the oil or rotating the tires. The pads will not just suddenly "disappear" unless some other failure has occured such as a stuck caliper. If the brakes are smooth and even with a good firm pedal, enjoy the ride.
BTW, Edmunds has the cost for this service at about $480, but they didn't include replacing the transmission fluid, which is recommended at 60k. But still a LOT less than $1100.
I just picked up my 2010 Elantra Touring SE. Note that this is the same 2.0L engine Hyundai has used since what, 2001? The timing belt change interval is now 90K miles for normal driving, 60K for harsh. My guys here say just under $500 for the timing belt. The tranny fluid is easy as there is no filter to change. $1100 seems pretty steep to me.
Jim
FWIW she does her other maintenance - oil changes and whatnot - at a Meineke that's within walking distance of our house. They can do the full scheduled maintenance including timing belt. I'm normally a proponent of dealer service as my experience has shown it to be just marginally more expensive but in your case you definitely should call around.