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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    It's common in my area (Minnesota) too, except the dealers here don't even offer a "Hyundai recommended" service package. Instead, I have to go through the maintenance schedule with the service writer and have him/her delete any service that is not on Hyundai's list of required services. But the cost difference is about what you described.

    What are some of the extra "Central Florida" services that they recommend at 15,000 miles? One to watch out for is "throttle body cleaning." That isn't necessary and in fact Hyundai even recommends against it.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Backy is right on about the throttle body cleaning. Hyundai even issued a TSB to the dealers telling them to leave it alone.

    15K service is usually an oil change, external belt check, fluid top off, check the brakes, and that is about it. No emissions testing or other computer based work is performed, at least not in Texas.

    It is unfortunate, but many dealers of all brands have started using these "inspections" to upsell services that may not be needed. On another forum there was a discussion over changing the high capacity air filter in a GM truck. The filter is huge, has an airflow restriction monitor, and in normal conditions can easily go 50K miles without replacement. Probably one of the best non-industrial air filtration systems I have ever seen on a vehicle. And yet, dealers and quicky oil change places will try to sell a replacement every 15K. It is all about profiting from those who do not read the owners manual.

    Another GM dealer was pushing transmission service at 15K intervals. I pointed out to them that under high-temp, towing conditions, GM recommended 30K. And they were charging $169 for the fluid and filter change, a 30 minute job.

    That dealer no longer has a GM franchise. Wonder why?
  • jmoore8jmoore8 Posts: 1
    I have gone 32-35 miles after the low fuel lite comes on
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    OK... I won't even ask how you know that.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Since you're a long-time Elantra owner, I'm curious as to whether you've ever used fuel injector cleaner.

    I somehow got the brilliant idea that it would help. So I decided that I would use some every 7500 miles. Well I passed 7500 last week and poured some stuff in (Chevron FI Cleaner). Seemed fine I guess.

    About 3/4 of the tank goes by uneventfully, then the Check Engine Light went on (Doh!) I filled the tank, took it to AutoZone for a read on the light: P0172- running too rich- and the AutoZone guy suggests pulling the battery cable to try to reset the light.

    So that's what I did. And the CEL went back out (whew!) So now I've gotten 130 miles out of the first quarter tank; that's usually almost a half tank for me. So now I'm wondering what all happened.

    Was the code related to the cleaner? Was it just coincidence? Did the cleaner improve my mileage, or was it just because of the ECM reset? :confuse:

    For the time being, the car is running better than ever, so I'm just gonna keep driving it. If my mileage is in fact improved, I'll be happy since that's been my biggest beef with the car. If it drops off in several thousand miles, though, the question becomes: Reset the ECM or add more FI cleaner?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    I use FI cleaner (usually Gumout's) about every 3000 miles on my cars (they are driven only 6000-9000 mi/year). I am happy with the engine performance and fuel economy of both my Elantras, so if it ain't broke, I won't fix it...
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    So no CEL, huh? Even on the 04? I suspect what happened is this: I know there is adaptive technology in the Elantras. Perhaps early on I taught it some "bad habits" which gave me poor mileage; maybe by flooring it too much it made it run rich and the FI cleaner pushed just over the brink and the CEL came on. Upon a clean reset, and driving the car more conservatively, it seems to be getting much better mileage. By 300 miles I'm ready to fill up; this tank looks like it might go to 400 and this is in mixed driving. It would be sweet to be able to finally claim to break the 30 mpg mark. Just gotta take it easy for the rest of this tank... ;)
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    Well, I did have two CELs on my '01 GLS, quite awhile ago. The first was traced to a gas cap that was not tightened enough (DW filled the tank for me, bless her heart). The second was due to a failed rear O2 sensor (replaced under warranty). No CELs on the 2-year-old '04 GT yet--no problems on that car whatsoever except a cloudy headlight cover (replaced under warranty) and a broken sun visor (replaced under warranty even though it had, uh, help getting broken). Oh, and I did the two recalls (gas line and OCS) but the OCS was working fine when I took it in and I don't know if they actually had to do anything on the gas line recall. I just bought some factory-matched spray paint and clearcoat for it, and I can't wait for some warmer weather so I can touch up a couple of scrapes on the front and rear bumpers and make it look like new again (well, after I have some small dings removed via PDR and do its spring cleanup it will look like new again).
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel a Certified Edmunds Poster.Posts: 11,722
    I have noticed that when my low fuel light comes on I have about 3 gallons left. But truth be told I think I see that light about once a year.

    The sign said "No shoes, no shirt, no service", it didn't say anything about no pants.

  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel a Certified Edmunds Poster.Posts: 11,722
    The fuel injector cleaner most likely had nothing to do with it. My guess is that it is just a coincidence of timing. Truth be told gas has cleaning agents in it that will keep the fuel system, including fuel injectors, clean. I have gone over 130k miles without using fuel injector cleaner and have had no issues. I personally am in the camp that fuel injector cleaners are little more than snake oil.

    The sign said "No shoes, no shirt, no service", it didn't say anything about no pants.

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    Oh well, for $6-9 a year per car, at least the snake oil isn't putting a major crimp in my budget.
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel a Certified Edmunds Poster.Posts: 11,722
    "A billion here, a billion there--pretty soon, you're talking real money" - Senator Everett Dirksen

    The sign said "No shoes, no shirt, no service", it didn't say anything about no pants.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The only thing I can reason on the CEL would be that the cleaner affected the O2 sensor (which is where the rich/lean condition is monitored)and once the concentration level was lessened by more fuel the condition went away. One of these days I will get bored enough to really look into how the O2 sensor works, but I suspect it is somehow temp related as there are codes that will set if the sensor doesn't come up to operating temp fast enough.

    I know lots of folks whine about the complexity of these control systems, but if you step back and look at the big picture they are really pretty cool. Imagine 30 years ago if you told someone you had a 2.0L engine that developed 130+ HP without a turbo/super, that would make 30+MPG at 70MPH in a five passenger car, have emissions so low you could run it in a closed garage (don't try this. even though the numbers support the non-lethal level of emissions, no reason to be stupid)and was durable enough to allow a 100K warranty.

    You would have been laughed out of the room.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    So you are saying that regular use of FI cleaner caused the O2 sensor to fail? The computer diagnostics reported a failure, and the sensor was replaced. This was after I had used the FI cleaner several times, and actually it didn't happen right after an application of the FI cleaner. And the 2nd O2 sensor has worked fine for about four years, while I have continued to use FI cleaner. I guess I don't see the relationship between the O2 sensor failure and the use of FI cleaner.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    No, not that it caused the failure, what I am thinking is that if the cleaner is overconcentrated (the old "If a pint is good, a quart should be better" mode)it may cause the sensor to read an over-rich condition. O2 sensors are actually very tough and a lot of the "failures" that get replaced are not failures at all, but the sensor seeing a problem that may be mis-diagnosed.

    Generally speaking, if a solid state electronics device is going to fail, barring outside event like lightening, they will fail pretty quick. The standard for televisions has been that if they work without problem for the first 100hours of operation, they will GENERALLY be good for about 10 years.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    I see. Well, I always follow the instructions on the bottle--one bottle per full tank--so I would be surprised if FI cleaner is the culprit in the failed O2 sensor. And it did happen fairly early in the car's life.
  • 9799397993 Posts: 1
    that dealership is trying to rip you off...i would write to the hyundai regional office or the head office in california. i have a '01 gls with 80k and have done all scheduled maintenance work myself and the local dealership has never given me problems with warranty work. most of the early "scheduled check ups" consist of an oil and filter change with visual check this or that.

    dk
    from syracuse, ny
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    An update on my own FI cleaner situation. To review, I used some cleaner at 7,500 miles and got the CEL (running rich). Whether they were related or not, who knows, but I reset the CEL by disconnecting the battery. That was a little over a week ago, and I got through the whole week without filling up (rare for me; I usually fill up every 5 days give or take). So I filled up this morning and got 27.9 mpg in mixed driving; by far the best I ever got in mixed driving ;) .

    Whether the CEL was due to the FI cleaner or just because the car was, in fact, running rich is hard to say. Whether the mpg improvement was cased by the FI cleaner or the CEL, who knows? But it got great mileage this tankful, hopeful a sign of things to come.

    On the other hand, 15 miles after filling up, I got another CEL (assuming it's the gas cap leak, even though I know for sure it was not loose. What a pain in the @$$. :mad: )
  • excessusexcessus Posts: 1
    My fog-free button on the main panel suddenly stopped working, so on the first revision I told the dealer that this had to be repaired. They did, but the button now doesnt make any noise like the other buttons. A/C, outside temperature, everything makes a sounding BLIP but this button. The cheek, the dealer says that no Elantra makes a BLIP noise on *that* especific button, the fog-free one. If you have a Elantra... a new one... can you please tell me if your car makes a BLIP noise if the button is pressed, so I can throw a lawyer to that looser? Thanks in advance.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    If that is on the automatic climate control, that is not available in the U.S., so I don't think we can help. None of the button blip on the manual system.
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    I assumed they were referring to the rear window defroster button, but the post was a little vague.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    I'd appreciate some input from you mechanically-minded Elantra owners. I noticed tonight when I drove my '01 GLS 5-speed that the clutch picked up very high off the floor, which is not normal. Then after driving it for about a mile and shifting a few times, it seemed to act normal. I hadn't driven the car for about a week so I asked my teen-aged son, the main driver of the car, if he had noticed anything unusual. He said he noticed that behavior starting a couple of days ago. Then I asked him if he had any idea why it might have started acting that way, e.g. any hard shifts, grinding the clutch etc. He got a little defensive of course, but said that before this behavior started, he had pushed the clutch in and out twice, by mistake. He didn't remember if the car was in gear at the time. He said there was no grinding sound when he did it.

    Any ideas what might be amiss? I paid $1300 for a new clutch last August (it "shattered" from abuse according to the dealer; my son and wife admitted to having several hard shifts with it) and it is still under a one-year warranty. My son swears up and down that he no longer abuses the clutch, but I am thinking seriously about selling this car after it is repaired and getting him an old slushbox beater.
  • Hi everyone,
    I have a 04 Elantra that has about 17k.
    I just bought it a month ago from this private seller.
    By the way, I noticed rattles from two different sources.
    One from the rearview mirror, it would vibrate, when the road gets bumpy.
    The other rattle of unknown source will appear, when I accelerate. It only appears when I hit around 1800 to 2000 rpm and It would disappear. What would this be?
    Anyone experienced the same problem? :confuse:

    P.S.: for the rearview mirror replacement, do I go any Hyundai dealer? would they take care of my problem without charges, although I didnt buy car from them? :cry:
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    Hard to know what to say about the rattle without knowing where in the car it is, what it sounds like etc. As for the mirror, if the car is still under warranty (e.g. the car does not have a "salvage" title), the dealer should fix it. Same with the rattle--technically, rattles and other "adjustments" are covered only for the first 1 year/12k miles, but I had good luck having dealers look into rattles for free all the way through the 5 year/60k warranty. :) They had mixed success, however. :( Rattles can be really hard to track down. And of course, the rattles almost always disappear when you bring it to the dealer.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Are you sure it's the mirror? Could it be the sunglass case just behind it? Funny thing about rattles: The sound can travel. It could be something from your center console echoing of your windshield or something weird like that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,779
    high clutch pedal is usually a sign of excessive clutch disk wear---the clutch material has worn off the face of the clutch plate so the pedal has to travel longer to make an engagement.

    You can test the clutch by running uphill in too high a gear, like 3rd or 4th when you should be in 2nd (lugging the engine). If it slips, your clutch has had it.

    MODERATOR

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    Thanks for the tip, I will try that later (if I can find a hill in my flat town). Does it make sense with the worn clutch that the clutch pedal is too high when the car starts out, but after a mile or so it shifts normally (i.e. much closer to the floor)? That is what is strange about this case.

    BTW the clutch was new last August, has maybe 4k miles on it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,779
    well that is kind of weird. You might check your hydraulic clutch fluid and see if it is very dark and dirty. Maybe flushing that will help. Also your hydraulic clutch slave cylinder actuator arm might be somewhat adjustable.

    MODERATOR

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    OK, will check that. But the fluid was flushed and replaced in August also. It would be nice if the problem could be solved by adjusting an actuator arm.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,710
    Update: had the clutch checked by the dealer today. They found nothing amiss. The problem has not recurred since last Thursday. Clutch does not slip going uphill. Strange.
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