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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel a Certified Edmunds Poster.Posts: 11,805
    Thats about the price that my dealer quoted me for my timing belt (it was $400 something). However my regular mechanic did it for much less (about $300).

    The sign said "No shoes, no shirt, no service", it didn't say anything about no pants.

  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Were you looking at the fuse box under the hood? If so, you were looking in the wrong place. There is a second fuse box in the passenger compartment. You know that little bin between the steering wheel and the driver's door? If you pull it all the way out (open it, then lift it up), it reveals the passenger compartment fuse box. On the back side of the bin is a fuse map to give you some clue what fuse controls what circuit.
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    When I had the timing belt replaced back at 60K on my '02, my mechanic (dealer) told me that the water pump was powered by a seperate drive belt - not the timing belt. He advised that I just sit tight on the water pump, and replace it at 120K when the second timing belt replacement is done. Kind of one of those deals to where if the water pump failes, the timing belt won't have to be removed to access it.

    In terms of price, I think my timing belt was replaced for well under $400 at the dealership (although I had some other stuff done at the same time).
  • cjgtcjgt Posts: 28
    $400 is too high just for the timing belt. I took my 01 Elantra to a local shop and they replaced the timing and another belt (I forgot which one)for around $320. I hate going to the dealer. Their too much of a rip off and alot of times they don't do the work correctly. :mad: I know there are some good dealers but I haven't had too many good expererances
  • tsgeiseltsgeisel Posts: 352
    The water pump is often replaced not for failure reasons but for "while we're here" reasons. The water pump is essentially in the same place as the timing belt, and the amount of effort to get to it is so much, a lot of places think they're doing you a favor by offering to change that out at the same time.

    Not just limited to Elantras or even Hyundais.
  • spmrebelspmrebel Posts: 130
    Jim,

    Looks like you got better mpg programming in yours! :P Anyway, I just filled her up 2 this last week. Once on Friday morning and once on Sunday morning. Anyway, here is what the mpg computer calculated vs. manual

    Friday, July 14th, went 368.1 miles and filled up with 14.012 gallons which equals 26.27 mpg. Computer indicated 31.7 mpg. Off by over 5 mpg! :cry:

    Sunday, July 16th, went 210.5 miles and filled up with 6.846 gallons of gas which equals 30.75 mpg. Computer indicated 32.9 mpg. Not too bad here :)

    Happy motoring

    Shawn
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    "The water pump is often replaced not for failure reasons but for "while we're here" reasons. The water pump is essentially in the same place as the timing belt"

    According to the technician at my Hyundai dealer, this typically is true for many cars, but not for the Elantra. Again, the waterpump is powered by a seperate drive belt - nothing to do with the timing belt in the case of the Elantra (per my technician). He says if the water pump fails, they don't have to go as far in as the timing belt to replace it.
  • tsgeiseltsgeisel Posts: 352
    Ah. Ok.

    I sit corrected.

    (Actually, I sit slouched, but you know what I mean.)
  • gary045gary045 Posts: 81
    Glad to hear you got your transmission problem fixed 911guy.
    And not just wasting your time and money on a new clutch.
    Yeah, I'm sure they didn't want to just do a free tranny rebuild.
    It still pays to know a little someting.
  • gary045gary045 Posts: 81
    starriver, a clutch doesn't grind, it slips due to being worn out or has eng oil on it.
    It sounds like yours could be worn, as your clutch engagement point is near fully released.
    You might try doing a burnout in 1st then hit 2nd gear with the gas peddle buried in the carpet.
    If your RPM goes to 5000 yet you are not moving very much, your clutch is slipping.

    Gears grind. If only one gear grinds, it is a worn syncronizer and the tranny needs a rebuild.
  • starriverstarriver Posts: 26
    Thanks, yes, probably the clutch needs to be replaced.
    I am gonna visit dealer tomorrow.
  • starriverstarriver Posts: 26
    Visited dealer today, but they said the car is normal.
    I tried floor the gas pedal in 2nd gear, it seems the clutch does not slip.
    Dealer also checked the code and they claimed everything is ok.
    One mechanics in dealership said, bad quality gas may be the reason, but I was using SHELL regular all the time, and the problem occurred recently.
    Do you guys have any idea about this problem?
    The car jerks when I press the gas pedal hard in 2nd gear. The acceleration is not smooth. I can feel it in 3rd gear too, but much difficult to notice. This happens more likely when the car is cold.
    Any comments are welcome and appreciated.
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel a Certified Edmunds Poster.Posts: 11,805
    One mechanics in dealership said, bad quality gas may be the reason, but I was using SHELL regular all the time, and the problem occurred recently.

    The dirty little secret in the oil business is that the odds are when you go to shell to buy gas you're getting non shell gas. You see the pipelines are common and what shell puts in one end most likely will not be what they take out on the other end. Shell will put in a gallon of gas on one end and on the other end take out whatever is at that end at the time, which may be BP gas or Exxon gas or whatever. Its pretty much all the same though.

    If it was bad gas it just might be bad additives added at the terminal, a bad tank or transport truck with contaminants in it. Many things can happen to make one batch bad.

    The sign said "No shoes, no shirt, no service", it didn't say anything about no pants.

  • gary045gary045 Posts: 81
    I was fixin to tell you not to tell the dealer you might need a new clutch. Let him figure it out with what you told us. What happened to the grinding you mentioned?

    If your car just jerks or is not smooth you could have condensation, or water in your tank.
    That happens if you don't drive much and you keep your tank below half full all the time.

    If you drive alot and keep the tank pretty full and it happens all the time it is probably not water in the tank.
    Then you have to look at a spark plug or fuel management, like an injector.
  • starriverstarriver Posts: 26
    Maybe I should try another gas station from now, I used one gas station mostly from begginning of the year, and it seems that the problem started at that time too. :)
  • starriverstarriver Posts: 26
    I am driving a lot, almost 2k per month.
    I am thinking of replacing the spark plug wire, since the plug was replaced 1 year ago but not the wire. The car is 60k miles now.
  • Three weeks after I picked up my 2006 Elantra GTS (5-door, automatic, no ABS), I brought it in for servicing. When I make a lefthand turn (usually from a stopped position), the steering wheel does not return to normal position. The car wants to go right and I have to hold the steering wheel firmly or I'd go flying. The steering wheel is a little off-center, tilted right. I also stopped for a red light once and the steering wheel moved a quarter-turn to the right all by itself. When I gave it some gas to go, the wheel returned to straight position by itself. (The sales rep said, "Oh, mine does that, too.")

    The service rep could not recreate the problem, though I did it in front of her. They did an all-wheel alignment, and it made no difference.

    I have noticed lots of comments about steering problems, and am wondering if anyone was able to resolve this one. I am still in the breaking-in period and have not gone over 55, so I don't know if I'm going to get any vibration at high speed. The car's steering and alignment seem fine except for this lefthand turn. I am getting a very nice 35 MPG in mixed traffic and am starting to really like the car except for this.

    Also, the manual says that the key is supposed to come with an identifying tag (number). In case you get locked out, the dealer can make you a key. My tag is missing and the sales rep told me that they don't come with a tag. Am I supposed to get a tag?
  • jkobbjkobb Posts: 51
    I can`t reply to the steering part of your question, but as to the keys my 05 has the key number tag on it .
  • jan6758jan6758 Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra that has 99,000 miles. I haven't had any major problems with the car. When I started the car this morning the car was shuddering. When I accelerated the car the check engine light started flashing and when I reached about 40 to 45 mph the check engine light stayed lit and the shuddering wasn't noticeable. I heard that if the check engine light flashes and the car shudders that there is a major problem with the car. Can someone tell me what the problem may be?
  • snakeweaselsnakeweasel a Certified Edmunds Poster.Posts: 11,805
    Well first thing I would do is get it do a mechanic as soon as possible (dealer would be best as its still under warranty for the drivetrain) and have them do a diagnostic on it.

    How is the acceleration? and is it making a lot more noise? I had similar problems with my 2000 and it happened to be the exhaust manifold. Can't say thats your problem though. Get it checked out and soon if its flashing.

    The sign said "No shoes, no shirt, no service", it didn't say anything about no pants.

  • jan6758jan6758 Posts: 2
    Acceleration is not good and it does make more noise than usual. I believe I had the exhaust manifold replaced last year under a recall. I won't be driving it until I can get it to a mechanic.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Could be as simple as a bad plug or plug wire. A good mechanic should be able to deal with this easily as it is a "hard" failure.
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    BUT!!!!

    If the CEL was flashing, you're supposed to SHUT THE CAR OFF IMMEDIATELY and have it towed!
  • mike91326mike91326 SoCalPosts: 245
    Over the last week I have been having a problem with the A/C in my 2001 Elantra. While I’m driving the A/C will cut out. The fan keeps blowing and the A/C light is on but all I get is hot air. After about 5 or 10 minutes the compressor kicks back in and the car is nice and cool again. This has happened three times in the last week and it doesn’t matter if I’m at full speed on the freeway or in bumper to bumper traffic. Have any of you come across this kind of problem?

    With the heat and humidly we have been having in Los Angeles (it was a balmy 116 at my house in the valley last Saturday), now is not a good time to have an A/C problem.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Low freon? Some systems use a pressure switch to detect this condition. Also, with the heat you are having, the same pressure switch may be detecting high head pressure and is shutting down the compressor to prevent damage.
  • mike91326mike91326 SoCalPosts: 245
    When the A/C is on I can hang beef in the car so I don't think it's freon. Also, it happend this morning on the way to work and the outside temp was in the low 80's.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    When it happens, open the hood and see if the compressor is running. Not just the pulley, but the center hub. Not being a smart [non-permissible content removed] here, but some folks don't understand how the clutch on a compressor works and think anytime the belt is moving the ac is on.

    Jim
  • mike91326mike91326 SoCalPosts: 245
    I can tell the difference when the compressor kicks in. When it stops working there is no difference when I push the A/C button. I can feel it when the compressor kicks back on.
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Posts: 559
    Is anyone experiencing low bulb burnouts possibly related to bad alternators in 2004 model year Elantras?

    There were some posts some time back about this. Here is one of them:
    #951 of 2432 RE: Lowbeam failure by 5port Mar 25, 2004 (7:30 am)
    Reply | E-mail Msg
    There are two TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) issued by Hyundai about this problem. They apply to the 2001 to 2003 models. The inside story from a Hyundai repair tech is that some Elantras and Tibs were made with faulty alternators. When the Alternator is under high load it causes voltage spikes. These spikes are causing the lowbeams to fail. The fix is to replace the alternator with a updated unit. If you take the TSB printout to the dealer and show it you will likely get action. Go to www.nhtsa.com and order a printout of the TSB:

    Search Results
    Report Date : March 25, 2004 at 09:17 AM
    TYPE : VEHICLE
    YEAR : 2001
    MAKE : HYUNDAI
    MODEL : ELANTRA
  • averigejoeaverigejoe Posts: 559
    I went to that link and found this one: http://www.dfwhyundais.com/diy/DIY-WebTechGuide.html

    There it shows a step 8 under registration: 8. Or, if you prefer, just use the username and password from the forum.

    What does that mean?
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