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Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I struggled with pulling out the city light, so was wondering if there was a trick to it. No amount of pulling or rotating helped.

    I just checked mine. I couldn't figure it out at first; I was looking for a catch and couldn't see one. I tried rotating it with some needle nose pliers and it rotated but nothing.... then I tried just pulling it out with the needle nose and it popped right out. It's a snap-in part, but it's meant to just pull out. It won't break. If you can't do it with your fingers, try some needle nose pliers.
  • Thanks Doohickie! I was eagerly awaiting your reply :) Will tinker with it tomorrow and change the bulbs. Also, do you have any links for a DIY for a tranny fluid change and coolant change (with pictures perhaps)? I tried the 'other' XD site but no luck.
  • Sad to say.... I'm lazy and leave that to the dealer. I paid $180 total for both at the dealer for those services. They advertise a 30,000 mile package for something like $350, but I had them do just those two things along with an oil change and called it good.
  • Well "doohickie" when I did first check these fuses, all were good under the dash. I probably smoked that fuse when I used a jumper wire in the relay box after cleaning some of the ground connections. All in all I do appreciate your input, even though it did take me awhile. Take care.............
  • Was a five minute job to take out the headnight, and replace the busted city light. The needle nose plier did the trick. Thanks!

    Now no worry of failing state inspection next month :)
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    And now you know more than you ever wanted to know about the lighting circuit of an Elantra.

    Glad to help,

    Jim
  • Well said Jim! Thanks..............
  • I hope you don't have another issue that's making that fuse blow then.
  • My son's 2005 Elantra has worn the rear brake pads down to the rotor. We are taking the car in to the dealer tomorrow. I guess I need to know how Hyundai typically handles a problem like this. Here are the particulars:

    28,000 miles
    Original front pads are fine,
    Dealer inspected two months ago, no mention of rear pad problem,
    Both sides are grinding.

    The way I look at it:

    Why did the rear ware before the front. Don't they have a good design for a proportioning valve?

    How can the valve be tested?

    If all that is needed is new pads, what should an install cost? (rough and dirty)

    If the rotors need to me ground/replaced, should that be covered under warranty?

    Anybody have any recent experience so I can get a feel what I am up against.

    Thanks In Advance,

    Pete
  • I've got a 2006 GLS Elantra and I'm wondering if there is any aftermarket or manufacturer product that I can replace that rear ashtray with. Is there a cupholder unit or something else of use I could put there?
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Well, the rear pads on my '05 GT lasted about 22K miles. Caught them before they hit metal, but just barely.

    The rear pads are very small, and non-metallic. At the time I replaced mine, there was no semi-metallic pad available. Don't know if there is now, or not. Did your son not notice the wear tabs screeching before the pad backplate started rubbing the rotor?
  • I don't know of anything that replaces it, but my Sears garage remote exactly fits in there. It's a nice, out-of-sight spot for that.
  • fushigifushigi Posts: 1,239
    The vent control on my wife's GLS has partly failed. Rotating the dial, it will no longer change the airflow from feet to face to defrost but if I rotate it over to defrost the AC light does come on. Seems like a failure in the motor that switches the airflow direction.

    Does anyone have any suggestions for things I can check before hauling it off to the dealer?

    I'll note that early this year the rear defrost button failed and we had that module - apparently the whole HVAC control area - replaced. While I suppose this could be related I'm doubtful.
  • Oops. I missed where you said "rear".

    I've thought of trying to get a cupholder back there but I'm not smart enough to figure out how to do it without ripping the console apart and making the whole thing look messy.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Does the underseat cupholder from an '05 fit?
  • There are cupholders on Elantra sedan rear seats, but not on the hatches. I think it has to do with how the hatch seat bottom folds.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    True. I noted he said it was a GLS, but I didn't pay attention to the body style.
  • Not sure of the best terminology so please bare with me.
    I took my 3 month old 2007 Elantra out for a local drive today after a night of light snow and freezing temps. Car has about 4,800 miles.

    I drove slow enough and noticed at one point that the brakes sort of caught and then slipped (or locked?) after depressing the brake pedal all the way. It'd start off with a somewhat quick ticking or scraping sound at which the brakes were kind of caught and then followed by the car skidding a very short distance. Is this what a locking brake feels like? I'm not sure.

    Anyhow, I tried to re-enact the event a few times more and sure enough it happened each time. Think I should be seriously worried? Take it into the dealer? or might this have to do with the first local snowfall of the season and be nothnig? Any ideas, suggestions would be appreciated. thanks. Of course I'll see how it handles tomorrow when the temps and weather is expected to warm up and clear up.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,727
    Have you driven a car with ABS before? A "quick ticking or scraping sound" sounds like you are describing ABS brakes. It will only happen if the ABS detects slippage on the wheels. Maybe some of the other times you tried it the road was not slippery enough to activate the ABS.

    Unless you are familiar with how ABS sound/feel and this did NOT sound/feel like ABS activating to you, then I don't think you have anything to worry about.
  • backy,

    yeah, my last car had ABS with new, huge, rugged all season tires, but don't recall ever slippin 'cept for when I had the older tires which were quite worn.

    Yet this might be only the 3rd time I've driven on wet roads with this new car? Of course the roads in my area were pretty icy today since it didn't snow enough for anybody to bother clearing them.

    Thanks for the insight. :)
    we'll see I guess how it all is tomorrow.
  • Hi, I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT and my blower only works on level 4, not 1-3. I was told it's a bad resistor, so I bought a resistor from my dealer for like $40. I need to install it but I can't find the location. I looked under the glovebox on the passenger side, and I don't see anything that looks like this resistor.

    Can anyone help walk me through? Note: The most advanced car maintenance I've done myself is replacing the air filter! :) Thank you!
  • Hmm .. where to start .. I am a retired ‘car guy’, that is, in my youth, when the earth was green, wrote books on cars, did a syndicated radio show, was on GMA, that kind of thing. Picked up a 2005 GT (new) as my retirement car. Currently only 10,000 miles on it (retired - remember?) and comments as follows:
    * generally, like the thing (like saying that the 1940’s were “OK except for the war”)
    * dislike the dealer so intensively that would rather drive with two stuck remote mirrors -- literally -- than bring my car in for a warranty claim
    * car as delivered had a front tire that was heat damaged, with tiny but numerous tread cracks. A real mystery. “How did you see that?” the dealer asked. “I looked.” They replaced the tire, shaking their little pointed heads all the while, but overtorqued the wheel and did not check the alignment, possibly because they did actually have an alignment machine on the premises (they subcontracted). I had the alignment checked (WAY WAY OUT) and done at a private shop at my expense
    * After 5000 miles, I found antifreeze on the engine, but it otherwise ran fine. Took it in. Dealer replaced head gasket. Service manager said on re-delivery “You may notice a smell. That is oil on the manifold because we spilled some. No biggie.” On starting, I noticed a small shake that smoothed out in seconds. Took it to my own mechanic. “Whatever the original problem was, you now have a cracked head,” he said. He said the “smell” was antifreeze burning. It smoothed out because heat sealed the small crack.
    * took the car back and left a lawyers letter. This time they changed the entire head and also repaired some plastic fittings they had damaged during the prior repair
    * now, 5000 miles later, car is “Ok” (see comment above on meaning of “ok”) except for warped rotors. I used to drive on race tracks so I know the diff between hard driving and soft driving. All this car has ever seen is soft driving. Checked forums like this one and found rotor problem on Elantra problem is common to the point of epidemic. Tomorrow my mechanic (not Hyundai’s) is replacing front brakes with slotted/drilled premium rotors and ceramic pads.
    * so far, still prefer the Elantra GT to my 92 Camry Sport which, instead of going gently into graceful old age, was costing me $2000 a year in repairs, and, remember, I wrote books on car maintenance.
    * in two weeks I go to Florida for the winter. Try retirement sometime. You might like it. Best for the holidays to all
  • I am getting ready to change the thrust and main bearings on my 2003 hyundai elantra. I can't find the bolt torque specs anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :sick: :cry: :mad:
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The most advanced car maintenance I've done myself is replacing the air filter!

    Then this job will make you suicidal. Take it somewhere. For another $40, a mechanic can do this in half an hour and have you whistling as you drive. or, YOU
    can try to do it, spend all day, learn the proper use of three or four new vulgar expressions, and have it still not work when you're done.

    Take my advice, you'll thank me.
  • Actually, I mustered up the courage to give it the ol' college try, and I successfully replaced my blower resistor in about 10 minutes! So I guess I can change that quote to:

    "The most advanced car maintenance I've done myself is replacing the blower resistor!"

    :) Thank you.
  • The passenger side headlight bulb went out this a.m. on my 2005 Hyundai Elantra. Is this something that I can change myself? Do I just go to my local store and purchase the bulb and is there a better bulb than some to buy? Don't some let you see better at night than others? Do I need any certain tools? I am the "Do It Herselfer" so I would like to be able to do this myself and any help would be greatly appreciated!!
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The passenger side is very easy. Directly behind the bulb, under the hood, is a large round knob. Unscrew it and you will see two wires going to a plug on the back of the bulb. Pull and wiggle the connector and it will come off. There is a little spring clip that looks like a twisted up gold colored paper clip. Unlatch it and the bulb will come out. Note that there is a tab on the bulb that fits into a notch, so it is very easy to line up the new one.

    I would not get the Sylvania SilverStar bulb. Yes, it is brighter, but it only lasts a fraction of the time the standard bulb lasts. Most importantly, when you put the new bulb in, DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS WITH YOUR BARE FINGERS!. These are halogen bulbs and the small amount of oil in your skin will cause hot spots in the glass and early burnout of the bulb.

    Put everything back together and you have done your first Elantra bulb change. The first one takes about 10-15 minutes on the passenger side. Drivers side is a tighter fit and takes a bit longer.

    Jim
  • doohickiedoohickie Posts: 949
    Passenger side is easier to get to than the drivers side, but if you have problems getting the bulb out, it may be easier to just remove the whole headlamp assembly. Besides the connecter, you have to remove the blinker bulb. Remove the two screws (10 mm hex head) that are plainly visible, plus the third one that is kind of behind the assembly and down lower, and the assembly comes right out. Then it's much easier to get to the bulbs.
  • THANKS...got it done. I did have to remove the entire headlight assemble to get this done but it worked!!
  • Has anyone had this problem? I just got back from dealer service. I got my new car in November and it's really hard to get it into first and second gear sometimes. It takes more muscle than was needed with my 2000 accent! It feels like the shift lever is pulled/stuck too far to the left, and it gets stuck in a notch and I really have to struggle to get it out of there.

    The mechanic told me it's because reverse on this car is located 'above' first gear, rather than 'below' fifth as on other cars. He said there's no adjustment that can be made. If this is true, I suddenly hate my new car as city driving is realllly annoying and my arm actually hurts.
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