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Hyundai Elantra Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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  • Tonight I was offered 10.7K OTD for a manual GLS with Air/Stereo package and the obligatory mats. They didn't actually have what I want but was willing to get one from a couple states away. Another dealer about an hour away offered 10.5k but a color I don't want. I really wanted 10k but it looks like that isn't going to happen. I am going to sleep on it.
  • Are those prices pre- or post- cash for clunkers? If post, they sound rather high... If pre-, that sounds absolutely fantastic.

    An update to my adventure...
    I was offered the $10,328 OTD w/o floor mats for the '09 GLS A/T with Popular Equip Package.

    After taking another poster's suggestion, I ended up $9,999 OTD w/ floor mats for an '09 GLS A/T with Popular Equip Package. The deal was thru Dan Burke at Ray Reece Hyundai in Portland OR. The experience with Dan was the *best* car buying experience I EVER had. The only con I would have to say about the whole thing is he was tough to get a hold of (I heard him on the phone say he has 10 folks in front of the guy that wanted to buy from him)... But he (thankfully) responded to my e-mail stating I was buying this morning and we went from there.

    Is this a "good" price? I thought so. One dealer wouldn't touch the $10,3xx, another dealer simply never responded, and the dealer who offered the $10,3xx was going below what they would for the Costco program (not sure if that's really all it's cracked up to be or not) and didn't respond with a counter-offer.

    All-in-all, I felt great about the purchase. It was the best price I could get, and I bought from someone who I would *truly* recommend.
  • This was the last GLS Automatic with the package I wanted on the lot as of 9:00am 8/7/09 (there were 4 the previous day @ 1:00 pm...)

    Agreed price was $16,250 (GLS with 02/AB pkg - i.e. no sunroof) plus mats and mudgards.
    Invoice on same was $17,136 per Edmunds.

    $16250.00 (Agreed price = $303.00 less than Edmunds TMV price)
    + 499.17 (VA State Taxes)
    + 389.00 (Processing fee)
    + 44.50 (Titling etc.)
    --------------
    $17,192.67 subtotal

    - 2,000.00 (Rebate)
    - 4,500.00 (C4C)
    ----------------
    $10,692.67 OTD

    Could I have done better? Probably "yes" the previous day. The end price represents taking all but about $100 of their hold back and I've yet to see anyone budge on the "processing fee". So, overall I'm happy enough with the deal considering, and am awaiting the card for the $1.49 gas club (which the dealer neglected to mention) BTW - if you do a C4C - don't forget that the dealer is supposed to offer you cash for the scrap value of the vehicle I believe...
  • You said:
    - 2,000.00 (Rebate)

    Could I have done better? Probably "yes" the previous day. The end price represents taking all but about $100 of their hold back and I've yet to see anyone budge on the "processing fee". So, overall I'm happy enough with the deal considering, and am awaiting the card for the $1.49 gas club (which the dealer neglected to mention)

    It's my understanding (reading from Hyundai's website), that it's either a $2,000 rebate, or a $500 rebate + the $1.49 gas program -- not both. On the basis that you got a $2,000 rebate, sorry, but I don't think you're going to get the $1.49 gas.

    Please let me know if I am wrong, and best of luck.
  • Think you may be right -(sigh)...
  • Wow...your taxes are very cheap!! I negotiated $300 less for the car and my OTD was still higher! Less than TMV is always good. Remember though, last month the TMV was around 15,800 for that same car, but yours is a good deal since the value did go up on these cars.
  • considering you got such a good deal, going in so well informed of dealer inventory and armed with edmunds tmv price. how could you not know the difference in rebate policies. you also took part in the cash for clunkers program but you are not sure if you are suppose to recieve cash back for the scrap value of vehicle. secondly you took the last elantra off the lot and they gave it to you for less than tmv. that must have been a demo with a bit of mileage on it. i could be wrong but your post seems a bit well dressed.
  • 41.7 miles on it.
    Dressed or otherwise - it is all the info I could think to post so that others can use it either to see what to NOT do, or TO do.
    If that doesn't meet with your approval - then it doesn't, and I'm sorry but I can't help you further...
  • 09elantraowner: Doing a quick calc, your price is lower (by about $30) than what I paid here in Portland, OR (and I didn't get the mud guards), and am still happy with my price. The car had 11 miles on it, but 41.7 isn't all that much either.

    Not sure what vaughanster's trip is, but would have been nice if he/she had a more thorough comment as opposed to just being a #!%$ about it.
  • Thanks for the comment. I was being honest when I said what I really wanted to do was supply info for others to work with. I KNOW I didn't get the best deal to be had (we've already seen that from the posts) - but I'm still happy enough with the deal.

    Again just FYI purposes - Edmunds doesn't mention the dealer hold back amount - but Consumer Reports does - it's $294.00 So, you should be looking at subtracting that from the Edmunds invoice amount to get a better idea of what the dealer actually paid, and from the TMV figure for your area to get a better bottom line idea.

    BTW - why was it the last one in that trim/option line on the lot? It was BLACK in color - who really wants that in the middle of the summer - not to mention trying to keep it looking clean? If I'd made my deal the day before - I'd have selected silver and probably bargained harder...
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,704

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • kimsdadkimsdad Posts: 8
    i have only looked at a couple of post so far and still need to test drive a few compacts. elantra is on my short list fer sure.

    Not to be nit picking but OTD (out the door) price should NOT include tax & license. This only confuses the math when someone is wanting to see what you paid for the car. ie. your negotiated price has nothing to do with what your state is going to charge ya....unless you know the gov. really well.

    i recently flew from louisiana to kentucky to buy a car for my daughter simple because i was able to save an extra $2k (after flight and hotel expenses) over my best deal at home. The best advise i can give is get the online Consumer Report print-out for the car you want BEFORE you even think about making your offer. With that info in-hand, plus what you read on this forum, you will know the cheapest price. "Knowledge is power" in the car-buying game. The report is called Consumer Report.org "New Car Price Service Report". GURGLE IT. It will give you a complete breakdown of all options and invoice price on each option, and also gives you lots of tips on negotiating. The one I liked, and used to buy my daughther's Acura, was e mailing dealers with an offer. I did this after I got nowhere with my 3 in-state dealers. I sent out 5 offers and got 4 counter offers and 1 in KY that accepted my offer to the letter!. No doc fees, no tire fees, no BS. Got it for a few hundred under invoice price plus discounts of about $3100 in Dealer Incentive and Dealer Holdback. Got to see Louisville and enjoyed the ride home. Point is, do your homework first.... shop hard....be firm but nice....have fun doing it.

    If elantra turns out to be the winner, i will be back. Only thing i am concerned with is that supply may be low.....which will make it much harder to negotiate. (Has anyone heard this) I may have to have backup cars to look at. BTW....I am going to look at Corrola, Jeep Patriot, Nisan Sentra, Mazda3, Nissan Versa.

    Cheers!
  • joem854joem854 Posts: 11
    Not trying to bust your chops, but the out-the-door price SHOULD include tax and license fees. That's kinda what out-the-door price means... it's your total price including everything. That means tag, title, licensing, and all dealer fees. You can view edmunds.com talking about it here:

    http://www.edmunds.com/advice/strategies/articles/102525/article.html
  • bpizzutibpizzuti Posts: 2,743
    His point is, those fees and taxes very so much from area to area (due to different tax and registration laws) that they should be broken out. And it's a very good point too, it could make as much as a $1500 difference in "OTD" price.
  • I'm going to have to go the other way on this and support adding all costs to the OTD figure and definition.
    If you show what the TT&L fees are - you're providing the most comprehensive price you can. For instance, in VA there is a "Dealer Processing Fee", but in MD they don't charge one (at least not under that name - and certainly not in that high an amount) which is why a lot of folks from Northern VA will often travel to MD to buy - it can make a few hundred dollars difference. Additionally, the "processing fee" within the state of VA can differ (a little) depending on geographic location which is useful for buyers in that state. Also, including ALL charges encountered in the cost breakout will show what can be expected in charges over and above a "best deal" in case you (or someone else) overlooked something when budgeting for the new vehicle.

    Perhaps we could call the pre-TT&L fees figure the "negotiated price", or "sale price".
  • bpizzutibpizzuti Posts: 2,743
    The point is, a lot of people just call it "OTD" and don't bother itemizing those costs. Which confuses things.
  • joem854joem854 Posts: 11
    Yes, you're right. Regardless of whether someone is posting their OTD or the price of their car before taxes and title, the numbers they give are really only marginally useful if they don't give the breakdown of those numbers. As 09elantraowner stated above not only do taxes and title vary greatly by state, but so do dealer charges. Anyone who has actually purchased a car should have a "Buyers Order" sheet or bill of sale with a complete breakdown of the costs. It should only take about 5-10 minutes to provide the full purchase numbers by copying them from your finished paperwork. Without the true breakdown, there's just too much that you're left guessing at.
  • Hello All,
    My name is Gaslocker. I am new to this site, and I just wanted to introduce myself. I work for Hyundai to answer questions and gather feedback about our "Share Your America" Road Trip Sweepstakes, and 1.49 Gaslock campaigns. I know I'm a little late here, but I just want to see if there is any more questions I can help answer, or any feed back anyone would like to share. For more info on our "Share Your America" Sweepstakes, check out
    http://www.roadtripsweepstakes.com
    http://www.Facebook.com/Hyundai

    Take care, and thanks
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,682
    Just one question: Are you seeing that it's obvious to most people that the Gaslock program is a big rip-off compared to the normal rebates, or are you finding a lot of people going for the Gaslock in lieu of the full rebate?
  • bpizzutibpizzuti Posts: 2,743
    It's so obviously a ripoff even dealers are admitting it and advising against it.
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