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Hyundai Elantra Prices Paid and Buying Experience



  • Yes the Doc Fee is done by every dealer I know of. This fee pays for us handling the Motor Vehicle work and any other documents needed. It basically helps pay our tittle clerk and the office ladies that make sure all the paperwork is done properly. In many states this fee is capped by the state so most dealers will be close to each other in their fee. Here in New Jersey I have seen it from $119 to $199. So the answer to your question is yes it is legit (yes it is also profit for the dealership as well). Also rarely if you ask to see the invoice are you shown a fake. That was done years ago and almost every Manufacturer out there will take the franchise away from any dealer doctoring or faking an invoice. The Advertising charge is not crap. There are some regions that do not include one but most do. It is money earmarked for advertising locally. So if you are asking is this money that goes into the hands of Hyundai not really, it goes to advertising their product which they agree is a needed expense. Just be careful about your intrest rate and you should be fine. You could probably haggle a few hundred dollars more if you really fight for it, but you said your salesman was nice and BS free. I wouldnt argue and be happy it was a good experience.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,878
    Can you tell us which regions add the advertising fee to the invoice and which do not? That would be very helpful to know. Also, is it a fixed charge or does it vary by region? Thanks.
  • 1racefan1racefan Posts: 932
    Regarding Doc Fees - I have a question that I have always wanted to ask an honest sales person. I am in North Carolina, and I have heard several dealers say it is "illegal" to not charge the Doc Fee. They say that if they don't charge it to one person, and someone who actually paid it finds out, then they could be sued for not charging it across the board. I always assumed this was just a BS statement that dealers just spewed back to try to charge the fee. I was just curious (in your area) what exactly are the legalities associated with charging or waiving the Doc Fee? I typically ask what the Doc Fee is at the beginning of negotiations, and ask that the sales person / manager quote all vehicle pricing with the fee included. I don't like negotiating, and then at the end having the Doc Fee appear out of the blue.
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    Doc fees and regulations on them vary from state to state. Some states regulate this fee and a dealer cannot charge more.


    In California, the "doc fee" is regulated and set at a fixed non-negotiable amount. In other states the "doc fee" is not regulated so the dealership can charge anything they like so you can negotiate on it.


    Check your state's Attorney General's office web site to see if your state regulates the fees and if so, what the fee is. Print this out and take it with you to the dealership (even if your state doesn't, you can at least say you know that and negotiate the doc fee$).
  • I dont know every regions charges, but yes it does vary by region. In say New England it costs more to advertise than say Kansas.
  • We are considering buying an Elantra by the summer. Any ideas which way the incentives might move over the next few months. I would guess up since the 06 will be updated.
  • u4eau4ea Posts: 5
    I'm guessing $2K since that's what it was on the '04s when they wanted to get rid of them. Also, last summer is when they sold out of the '04s in the Seattle area, so they will want to get rid of the '05s by then too.

    You could even keep your eye out of any new rebates in these next few months since there are great deals now (see my post #770).

    Good luck,

  • I've seen a number of posts that say "I wouldn't pay $xxx over invoice..." How do you get to invoice as a starting point of negotiations? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but does it work to say, "Let me see an invoice"? And if they're willing to produce one, then to say, "I want that price, in addition to the rebate"?


    Originally I had a couple of offers that I thought were decent, until I saw some of the postings here. Any negotiating tips that you have would be appreciated...



  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,878
    You can get invoice numbers from several sources, including right here at Look up the car in the New Cars section and follow the Pricing links. It will show you the MSRP and the invoice. Print it and take it with you to the dealer. If they challenge the number, you can ask them to show you their invoice.
  • Wow -- four minutes for a response! And to think when somebody hit my car, leading me to look for a new one, there was a point at which it took four DAYS for my insurance company to call me back (yes, I'm switching insurers).


    Anyway, another question: I'm looking for a GLS 5-speed hatchback, moonlit blue, with cruise, in the Cleveland area. Is it reasonable to expect that I can get a dealer to find me such a specific request, at this aggressive pricing?


    Thanks again for your help!

  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,878
    Maybe. 5-speeds are fairly rare. So if you want a specific color and only cruise for options, that might be tough. But it is reasonable for your dealer to search the region for a car that meets your needs, if they don't have one in stock, and trade the other dealer for that car. If they won't do that, try another dealer. There may be a charge to transport the car to you, depending on how far away it is.
  • u4eau4ea Posts: 5
    i'm assuming that price is after rebate?
    check out post 770. you could do a tad better....
  • lathamlatham Posts: 33
    I saw an ad on a nearby Hyundai Dealer's web page for a base 2005 Elantra GLS manual for $7888 after every rebate Hyundai offered (One at this price). I qualified for all but the military ($500) and loyalty ($750), so I decided it sounded good. I called the dealership, they told me they had the car, my wife and I went down, and we bought it.

    They gave it to us for
    + TTL (including taxes on mfr rebates)
    $10,302 OTD!!

    After a brief misunderstanding in which the people at the dealership were fairly helpful, I'm pleased with the experience, and very pleased with the car for the price. We had been looking at some good used values, but for that price, we just couldn't pass it up.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,878
    Wow! It's hard to do better than that! Or to get more car for less money than that. Congratulations! But that dealer should take the offer off their web site now, shouldn't they...
  • danf1danf1 Posts: 935
    The dealer will probably just replace that specific vehicle with the next oldest one in that price range.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,878
    That would be great, but then there's no need for them to say "one only", right?
  • danf1danf1 Posts: 935
    We say "one only" to build urgency. Also some times it truly is only one car. Maybe the one thats been damaged, got som miles on it, been on the lot too long, an undesireble color etc....
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,878
    I thought the "one only" (usually in very small print) was used more to lure buyers in with a super-low price and then try to up-sell them a costlier model ("Oh sorry, that car was sold this morning"). ;-)
  • danf1danf1 Posts: 935
    That is part of it, but if we tell you that the car is sold then we need to be able to show you that it truly is. Its more like "oh, you wanted an automatic transmission?"
  • vksanvksan Posts: 2
    Could you please tell me if this is a decent quote or can I get better.
    I am buying a '05 Elantra GLS Auto fully loaded with ABS ,traction control, Sunroof for my wife probably in this next week or next. I received some quotes thru . I have been quoted in the range of $15000 - $15475 out of door includes $1750 cash back . Basically all of the dealers are sticking to the invoice price which I checked from I live in Metro Detroit area.
  • danf1danf1 Posts: 935
    6% tax right?
    It sounds like you are close to invoice depending on doc fees etc...
    I don't know how much cheaper you can expect to pay. Yes the dealer is still making some money, but no salesman is cashing his commission and going to Hawaii.
  • vksanvksan Posts: 2
    Yes tax is 6%
  • I received this offer for an '05 Elantra GLS from O'Brien's of Champaign, IL:

    2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS
    Cruise control - 200
    AM/FM/CD - 350
    ABS - 595
    MSRP - 15862
    Sale - 15198

    Sale Price - 15198
    Trade Allow - 500 (est. only - site unseen - trade is '91 Olds Cutlass Calais with rough paint, mechanical issues, and 125,000 miles - I'll just be glad to have it gone and to be able to transfer the plates)
    Difference - 14698
    Doc Fee - 55.39
    Sales Tax - 922 (6.25%)
    Xfer plates - 80
    Subtotal - 15755
    Rebate - 1750
    Total - 14005.39

    He had given me a previous offer on an Automatic GLS without the options listed above and indicated that that quote included the destination charge, so I know I need to verify that the above offer also includes that $545 destination charge. I looked at Edmund's TMV, and if I remember right, this comes out to about $100 or so over that (though I could be wrong on that - forgot to write it down). I'm thinking of recouping that $100 by asking for him to throw in the carpeted floor mats and the trunk cargo net at the same price listed above.

    I think the $1750 rebate expires on 2/28 - any thoughts on what rebate (if any) will be available after that? Can I ask if he can guarantee that cost savings (either through a rebate or some other means) even after 2/28? He hasn't applied any pressure by telling me it expires soon, though I did email him this morning and asked him how long it is good for.

    I'm also not sure if he has this car on the lot, or if he'd have to trade for it. Color is not a concern for me, though I would like to stay away from black, white, or silver (the color of the Olds that I'm trading).

    Thanks for your help!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,878
    Hard to tell what rebates will be in the future, but personally I think they would tend to stay stable or increase vs. decrease. It's a crap shoot, though.

    The dealer's offer looks to me like it has more room in it, looking at MSRP vs. their offering price. Be sure to ask them what their offer is WITHOUT your trade-in. Then you'll know what the real discount is.

    You might check on prices in Chicago to see how they compare. Even if you don't want to go there to buy a car, you can use them as leverage with the local dealer.
  • mike91326mike91326 SoCalPosts: 251
    I went to and put in your zip code and numbers. Their price before the $1750 rebate is $14,723. I would go to Carsdirect, print out the numbers and take it to the dealer. Tell them to match the price or you'll buy it through Carsdirect. I'm sure they will match it.
  • My thanks to you both, backy and mike! One other question - I just noticed that he's taking the rebate off after taxes are calculated - is that the normal way of doing this? That means I'm paying taxes on the rebate.

    Thanks again!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,878
    This practice seems to vary by state. In my state (MN), the rebates are deducted before sales tax is calculated. But I've heard that in other states, the tax is calculated before rebates are applied. Since the dealer does this all the time, they should know the correct practice. But if you want to be sure, you could check with the IL Department of Revenue.
  • danf1danf1 Posts: 935
    In Illinois sales tax is calculated on the net sale price after trade in. You should not be paying tax on the rebate.
  • I just purchased a 2005 Elantra Hatchback, GLS for $11,480.25 plus tax and tags from a Dealer here in Deerfield Beach, FL. Think this is a good price. Am I correct ? I played 3 Dealers against each other to get this price. In fact, I actually agreed to pay $400 more 2 days earlier and the Dealer refused. When I called back I accidently got a different Salesman ( with the same name )and he gave me the car for $400 less. So, I wasn't going to refuse. Whats a Car Buyer to do ?Indeed.
  • danf1danf1 Posts: 935
    If you bought a 5-speed with no options, then your price is about 400-500 below invoice which is a very good deal. If it has more equipment, then it is an excellent deal. Either way if you are happy with the price I'd say you did well.
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