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Hyundai Elantra Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • Yep, some snowy day in December they will be glad to have someone make an offer, or better yet in February. I made an offer on Friday for the car I discribed using the TMV and it was rejected, they counter offered an additional $700. My car is not ready for the bone yard yet so I can wait and see if thing don't get better. That dealership was going crazy with all of the customers coming and going. I saw several people stand around in the showroom for awhile and leave because no one even greeted them. They salepeople were in hog heaven.
  • bhmr59bhmr59 Posts: 1,598
    I disagree. While I'm in CT, Towne Hyundai in NJ is only 100 miles away. They routinely offer internet pricing below invoice. And I would consider NJ to be in the north east.
  • I test drove one at Rick Case Hyundai. Loved the car, hated the bad cliche of a car salesman trying to sell it to me.

    The next day I went in to Jim Ellis. The saleswoman gave off a very Sarah-Palin vibe. I had an internet quote for $17,031 for a Black, 5-speed, Touring with carpeted mats, ipod cable and wheel locks. They had one with the same features with a sticker of $17,975.

    I showed them my quote (thanks iphone) and they beat it by $100. So I got a Touring for $16,931. I got $1500 cash back, which almost covered tax, tag and title. I drove off for $17,100 or so. They even gave me a better rate than my credit union on the loan.
  • qinnyqinny Posts: 2
    Hi Backy, thank you for your help. On Monday, the dealer called me that I could have it with $12,000 which I negotiated yesterday. It seems that I gave a good price to them. Should I go to buy it or discuss for lower price? Thanks a lot.
  • joegiantjoegiant Posts: 90
    Hey ginny, FWIW the car I bought on July 25th (start of the goldrush!) is now more expensive than what I paid. A month of depreciation later, closer to the '10 model showing up, and yet costs more! Equipped the same way as mine with an exact MSRP the same, $400 more! I think the timing is wrong on all of this IF you can wait. Drag the clunker another couple months and see what the Fall brings? Might be worth money in your pocket. Of course if you're a lil' uneasy over ol' Bessie making it that far, might have you over the proverbial barrel. But $4500 trade-in is money in the bank even if the dealer is taking some of it from you right now as the market seems to be dictating.
  • bpizzutibpizzuti Posts: 2,743
    I wouldn't, and I'm closer to them than you are. :) Besides which, Towne seems to be the ONLY one doing it and it's probably case by case (Try it on an SE or Touring, instead of the GLSes everyone has a glut of). Personally I tried Beacon, NY (Healey), Kingston, NY (Prestige), Danbury, CT, White Plains, NY (skipped the couple of small dealers in-between Beacon and White Plains) and sent a couple of e-mails further south. No one wanted to go below invoice on an SE or Touring.

    A lot of it is CARS...it immediately raised the demand side of the equation. Demand goes up, so does price.
  • joem854joem854 Posts: 11
    I will try to help as best I can. To start, however, I will say that the price you were being asked to pay does seem quite high.

    To arrive at an MSRP of $17,770 on a GLS automatic with the popular equipment package, it would mean that the price also included carpeted floor mats and mud guards. This is the only combination of accessories I can find using Edmunds.com's information to arrive at $17,770. Don't forget that the MSRP also includes the $720 destination charge.

    Without knowing the taxes, tag and title fees in California it is difficult for me to tell you what out-the-door price you should be shooting for. Instead, I can tell you what price you should be getting from the dealer before taxes, tag, and title are added in.

    The invoice price on your car should be $17,148. Typically, unless the model of a particular car is in high demand, a dealer should be willing to part with the car for at least $100-$200 below invoice. Depending on market conditions, you can sometimes get much better deals. For example, the price I got here in FL was almost $1000 below invoice. This would lead me to believe that even if conditions are quite different in CA, you should at least be able to get the car for $500 below invoice. But, for the sake of argument, let's say that you can't even get that. You should, at the very least, be getting the car for invoice price given the overall state of the auto-buying market. If you're paying more than invoice right now, the dealer is getting the better of you.

    So, in your case, your invoice price was $17,148. This means that after the $2000 factory and $4500 clunker rebates your total price should be $10,648 if you were getting the car exactly at invoice. Which means that the price of $12,600 out-the-door that you were quoted would involve your taxes and tags coming to almost $2000. Again, I don't know what taxes and tags cost in CA but that doesn't sound right to me. Which would lead me to believe that the dealer is trying to sell you the car for above the invoice price and you are getting a bad deal.

    If you have any more questions, let me know and I will try to help.
  • joem854joem854 Posts: 11
    IMPORTANT NOTE:

    I want to clarify something for both qinny and anyone else reading this who is still looking to purchase a car using cash for clunkers.

    DO NOT MENTION CASH FOR CLUNKERS WHILE NEGOTIATING THE PRICE OF YOUR CAR.

    Call any dealership you're planning on visiting before you go and make sure they are still participating in the cash for clunkers program. DO NOT give them your name or personal information. Simply find out if they are still participating, get the name of the person you spoke with, thank them, and tell them goodbye.

    When you go into the dealership and start negotiating the price of your car, they will ask you if you are going to be trading in a car or using cash for clunkers. Tell them no. Negotiate the best price you can with them and if they are willing to sell the car for a price you're happy with, THEN tell them you have decided that you'll be using cash for clunkers after all.

    Why do you have to do this? Because car dealers are dishonest. When they know that you're using cash for clunkers before you begin the negotiating process they factor in the fact that you're receiving $4500 and jack up their price. They are not supposed to do this because the rebate money is not coming out of their pocket, but they do it anyway. The price they quote, unless you're at one of the mythical honest dealerships, will be quite different if they don't know upfront that you're using cash for clunkers. Once they've agreed on a price, you can cause a lot of trouble for them if they try and go back on it once you mention cash for clunkers. And if they ask you why you didn't mention cash for clunkers earlier, you just tell them "I wasn't sure I really wanted to part with my clunker, but now I'm thinking that I will."
  • bpizzutibpizzuti Posts: 2,743
    It's not that they're dishonest....technically anyway. :shades: But they do like to make things complicated, and CARS makes things more complicated. You see, they understand all the complications and the buyer doesn't. This way the buyer just looks at the "bottom line" price (and it doesn't matter if it's total or the monthly payment).

    You see, a bottom-line price of $11,000 sounds like a great deal. Until you de-complicate it and break the numbers down, and find out that it's MSRP minus factory rebates minus CARS rebate. $300 a month sounds like a great payment. Until you find out it's at 12% interest for 7 years (which is how they make money after going way below invoice before rebates). Giving you $3000 for your old broken-down heap that doesn't qualify for CARS sounds great...until you find out that "dealer prep" was $1000 because they put those silly $5 pinstripes on.

    Never agree to a bottom-line. Break it down before deciding.
  • "Personally I tried Beacon, NY (Healey), Kingston, NY (Prestige), Danbury, CT, White Plains, NY (skipped the couple of small dealers in-between Beacon and White Plains) and sent a couple of e-mails further south. No one wanted to go below invoice on an SE or Touring. "

    Hmmm.....I'm a New Yorker from Orange County, NY. I got a laugh over this as I bought my 2008 Elantra from Suresky in Goshen NY. The reason I laughed? Because according to you they were skipped over because they are a small dealership.....that's a good one. They are about the only reputable Dealership in Orange County. And one of the most HONEST. And I guess you felt they were small because they only take up the biggest area on the side of 17 E going towards the city. Such a big dealership you have to drive right past them as you head towards the Thruway. I'm not sure where you are from, but everyone in Orange Co. knows Healey is a ripoff, Prestige is a Toyota Dealership with Hyundai too, and the closer to White Plains you get the more expensive the cars get. And phone calls will get you everything. I saw the newspaper ad last year for Healy and I called Suresky as they are only 20 mins. from me and Suresky beat their add with the price I paid. All I did was mention what I saw in the paper and they said come in, we beat anything. But if you internet search here the cars are all higher than what is listed in the newspaper. :shades:
  • bpizzutibpizzuti Posts: 2,743
    Oh i know Healey is a ripoff. Prestige is actually a nice place to deal with..pretty low pressure and upscale place, pleasant experience. Though they aren't the cheapest.

    And the reason i skipped Suresky is because they're WAY out of my way. I live in Beacon and work just outside of White Plains. :shades: I wasn't even willing to go to Kia of New Windsor more than once. ;) I stay on this side of the river for the most part, 84 to 684.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,746
    One question: did you actually offer to buy the car for $12,000, or was it more like a number you were tossing around in discussions with the dealer? If it was an offer, the dealer has accepted your offer and that creates a (verbal) contract. Whether you now want to go back and negotiate further is up to you. If it were me, I would stand by the offer I made. I know there will be some here who disagree.
  • joegiantjoegiant Posts: 90
    ginny, ginny, where art thou? Are you the proud owner of a brand spankin' new Hyundai Elantra yet or are you still rrrraaaaastlin' with those nasty dealers?

    Verbal offer backy? Stand on it? Hmmm...I can't count the number of times a dealer has "said" something during negotiations that later turned out to be a slight exaggeration and was therefore null and void. Wasn't worth my time to throw a tizzy when it happened. Just a live and learn, I will NOT return kinda thing.
  • hyundai newbie, sounds like you got a great deal. I also purchase my first in July: a 2009 Elantra GLS PZEV, AT, popular equip package (w/o sunroof), floor mats, mud guards, and trunk cargo net.

    MSRP: $17,795 (destination incl $695.00)
    Invoice: $17,180

    Price: $15,950
    8% tax:$1276.00
    DMV+inspection: $130.50
    Doc fee: $45

    Total: $17,401.50
    -cash rebate $2,000

    Out-the-Door Total: $15,401.50

    My 99 Pontiac Grand Am didn't qualify for the clunker rebate. I thought this was a great deal. I'm in western NY and it was the best price i could get in 3 cities. Last month the TMV was around 15,800 for this car (not including rebates); now it's $16,660! Looks like the market value shot up for the Elantra's. Plus I think Hyundai made a killing with sales in July, especially due to the clunker rebates.
  • joegiantjoegiant Posts: 90
    FWIW, Hyundai has placed rather well on the very popular Cash for Clunkers government give away plan with it's Elantra coming in #6 on the sales charts to date. A testament to how good and practical this particular model is in regards to this program. I'd bet that the Sonata in the midsize dept. and the Santa Fe in the small SUV dept. have got impressive numbers as well. Keep laughing Toyota and Honda but I think this upstart Hyundai is coming on strong and isn't showing signs of slowing down.

    Hyundai Elantra = value for the dollar. Sales figures don't lie.
  • Hi --
    I have been quoted the following for a new '09 Elantra GLS A/T with the Popular Equip Package (nothing else -- no mats, etc.). Got them to a starting price of $16,610 (something like invoice minus $500) - $2k rebate - $4.5k (CARS) + $228 TTL =
    OTD price of $10,328.

    I'm thinking this is a very solid deal. (Would have actually been driving it right now, but realized was missing some of the insurance paperwork to prove it's been insured for the past-year). Dealer said to come in tomorrow AM and wrap things up.

    Just want to run this by folks and confirm it's a solid deal.

    Thoughts?
  • joem854joem854 Posts: 11
    Getting the Elantra you listed for $16,610 before rebates is an ok price. Unless your destination charge is different than $720, invoice price on the car you described should be $17,004. This means you'll be getting the car for about $400 below invoice. While some people have gotten their Elantra for as much as $1000 or more below invoice, it really depends on your location since in some areas the dealers aren't budging from invoice at all.

    If you can, visit or call several other dealerships in your area and see if they'll beat that price. If they won't, you can feel comfortable taking that deal. The immense popularity of cash for clunkers has greatly driven up recent auto sales. This may mean that those $1000+ below invoice deals are a thing of the past now that demand is higher and the dealers aren't finding it necessary to give those hefty discounts to generate sales.
  • Just got an Elantra Touring GL up in here in the Great White North. 21240 CDN out the door including tax (5% to Mr. Harper, 8% to Mr. McG), delivery, and other fees + 0 % financing. We got the Vivid Blue...we figured it was the "youngest" looking color.

    It comes with floor mats. Anyone know if the Cargo cover was included. We saw it on the showroom model and a few other ones in the parking lot but it is listed as an accessory. We pick it up on Monday! First time Hyundai owner, I've had a Mazda Protege for 9 years now. This is about the same amount of car for 2 grand less! Only thing extras the Protege has are mags and a sunroof.
  • Thanks for the response and advice. I'm in Portland, OR.

    I did attempt to solicit some quotes from other dealers in the area, but with little success. (They don't like to communicate via e-mail... I thought that was the whole idea behind an "Internet" sales department.)

    Thanks again
  • labwizlabwiz Posts: 1
    This is an excellent quote. I paid 10521 OTD with tinting for Elantra AT package 2 in Houston Texas
  • Tonight I was offered 10.7K OTD for a manual GLS with Air/Stereo package and the obligatory mats. They didn't actually have what I want but was willing to get one from a couple states away. Another dealer about an hour away offered 10.5k but a color I don't want. I really wanted 10k but it looks like that isn't going to happen. I am going to sleep on it.
  • Are those prices pre- or post- cash for clunkers? If post, they sound rather high... If pre-, that sounds absolutely fantastic.

    An update to my adventure...
    I was offered the $10,328 OTD w/o floor mats for the '09 GLS A/T with Popular Equip Package.

    After taking another poster's suggestion, I ended up $9,999 OTD w/ floor mats for an '09 GLS A/T with Popular Equip Package. The deal was thru Dan Burke at Ray Reece Hyundai in Portland OR. The experience with Dan was the *best* car buying experience I EVER had. The only con I would have to say about the whole thing is he was tough to get a hold of (I heard him on the phone say he has 10 folks in front of the guy that wanted to buy from him)... But he (thankfully) responded to my e-mail stating I was buying this morning and we went from there.

    Is this a "good" price? I thought so. One dealer wouldn't touch the $10,3xx, another dealer simply never responded, and the dealer who offered the $10,3xx was going below what they would for the Costco program (not sure if that's really all it's cracked up to be or not) and didn't respond with a counter-offer.

    All-in-all, I felt great about the purchase. It was the best price I could get, and I bought from someone who I would *truly* recommend.
  • This was the last GLS Automatic with the package I wanted on the lot as of 9:00am 8/7/09 (there were 4 the previous day @ 1:00 pm...)

    Agreed price was $16,250 (GLS with 02/AB pkg - i.e. no sunroof) plus mats and mudgards.
    Invoice on same was $17,136 per Edmunds.

    $16250.00 (Agreed price = $303.00 less than Edmunds TMV price)
    + 499.17 (VA State Taxes)
    + 389.00 (Processing fee)
    + 44.50 (Titling etc.)
    --------------
    $17,192.67 subtotal

    - 2,000.00 (Rebate)
    - 4,500.00 (C4C)
    ----------------
    $10,692.67 OTD

    Could I have done better? Probably "yes" the previous day. The end price represents taking all but about $100 of their hold back and I've yet to see anyone budge on the "processing fee". So, overall I'm happy enough with the deal considering, and am awaiting the card for the $1.49 gas club (which the dealer neglected to mention) BTW - if you do a C4C - don't forget that the dealer is supposed to offer you cash for the scrap value of the vehicle I believe...
  • You said:
    - 2,000.00 (Rebate)

    Could I have done better? Probably "yes" the previous day. The end price represents taking all but about $100 of their hold back and I've yet to see anyone budge on the "processing fee". So, overall I'm happy enough with the deal considering, and am awaiting the card for the $1.49 gas club (which the dealer neglected to mention)

    It's my understanding (reading from Hyundai's website), that it's either a $2,000 rebate, or a $500 rebate + the $1.49 gas program -- not both. On the basis that you got a $2,000 rebate, sorry, but I don't think you're going to get the $1.49 gas.

    Please let me know if I am wrong, and best of luck.
  • Think you may be right -(sigh)...
  • Wow...your taxes are very cheap!! I negotiated $300 less for the car and my OTD was still higher! Less than TMV is always good. Remember though, last month the TMV was around 15,800 for that same car, but yours is a good deal since the value did go up on these cars.
  • considering you got such a good deal, going in so well informed of dealer inventory and armed with edmunds tmv price. how could you not know the difference in rebate policies. you also took part in the cash for clunkers program but you are not sure if you are suppose to recieve cash back for the scrap value of vehicle. secondly you took the last elantra off the lot and they gave it to you for less than tmv. that must have been a demo with a bit of mileage on it. i could be wrong but your post seems a bit well dressed.
  • 41.7 miles on it.
    Dressed or otherwise - it is all the info I could think to post so that others can use it either to see what to NOT do, or TO do.
    If that doesn't meet with your approval - then it doesn't, and I'm sorry but I can't help you further...
  • 09elantraowner: Doing a quick calc, your price is lower (by about $30) than what I paid here in Portland, OR (and I didn't get the mud guards), and am still happy with my price. The car had 11 miles on it, but 41.7 isn't all that much either.

    Not sure what vaughanster's trip is, but would have been nice if he/she had a more thorough comment as opposed to just being a #!%$ about it.
  • Thanks for the comment. I was being honest when I said what I really wanted to do was supply info for others to work with. I KNOW I didn't get the best deal to be had (we've already seen that from the posts) - but I'm still happy enough with the deal.

    Again just FYI purposes - Edmunds doesn't mention the dealer hold back amount - but Consumer Reports does - it's $294.00 So, you should be looking at subtracting that from the Edmunds invoice amount to get a better idea of what the dealer actually paid, and from the TMV figure for your area to get a better bottom line idea.

    BTW - why was it the last one in that trim/option line on the lot? It was BLACK in color - who really wants that in the middle of the summer - not to mention trying to keep it looking clean? If I'd made my deal the day before - I'd have selected silver and probably bargained harder...
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