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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I have two problems with my 2005 CRV. One, noise at 1700 to 1800 RPM. Car makes a roaring noise and continues to do so as long as it is at that RPM.

    I wouldn't consider this a problem, that is a characteristic of K-series engine. It is more of a grunt, that groan. It makes it sound more like a truck.

    Two, vibration in vehicle when stopped and the car is in gear. Honda is telling me this is a characteristic of the Honda CRV. Anyone else have these problems.

    I have stick, so no problem here :-)
  • Well, I can't let the mice win. I took off the cowl on the passenger side. It is the large black plastic covering under the wipers. It is thankfully divided into two pieces and is not too difficult to get off. It turns out that the fresh air intake underneath the cowl does not have any screening. It is a 6" by 8" opening that is wide open. I cut some 1/4" opening screen to cover it and siliconed it down. No more mice!! Other cars I have owned have screening over this intake. I'm really surprised that Honda left this off. It's a real problem for us country boys. I have photos if I could figure out how to post them.
  • A week ago I made a 7am appointment to have the dual pump fluid in my 2002 CRV changed. I dropped my car off the afternoon before my appointment so that they would have it first thing in the morning. They told me the car would be ready by 11am. At drop off they ask if I want to do any other work, I say no just do the dual pump fluid as scheduled. Then at 9:30 am. this morning they call me and ask if I also want an oil/filter change. I figure sure, you already have it on the rack go ahead. I show up at the dealer at 3pm to pick up my car, and they tell me they have not started any of the work yet. I ask how could that be, and they said that they pulled it off the line while they waited to call me about the oil change and they are working my car back into the rotation. I got so mad. I could not understand how they would ignore scheduled work while they tried to up-sell me on additional work I already said I did not want. The dealer really had no explanation and said they would do the work now if I would wait another hour. I said no, give me my car and you have lost a customer. Am I out of line here that they blew it, or just not thinking straight over my anger?

    Zax
  • epm1epm1 Posts: 32
    Zax, I still have not figured out why so many dealers assume if you spend 20,000-$25,000 for a car from them then they have a license to jerk you around in the service dept. and do work at their convenience not the customer's convenience. I get better treatment at the convenience mart or the dry cleaners where I spend a lot less money. After taking all the abuse I could stand I found an independent shop that only works on Honda's- Honda trained mechanics and genuine Honda parts. Work is done by appointment and items such as oil changes are done while I wait in less than 1/2hour- and they check all fluids and tire pressures at no charge. Almost all work is done in less than 1/2 a day and they do a test drive after all service. They don't call estimates a diagnosis and charge me $100 for an estimate like the dealer wanted to do - one day to do the the estimate and then schedule repairs on another day- NO THANK YOU. HONDA is rewriting the definitions of "quality", "reliability" and "customer service". After 16 years I have discovered other manufacturers beside Honda also make cars. epm1
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Your service advisor was a jerk. You were well justified to be upset. But if you really wanted the work done after they jerked you around, you could have asked for a loaner car. BTW, what is dual pump fluid?
  • HAVE JUST BOUGHT A 2001 HONDA CRV LX. TEST DROVE IT AND WAS HAPPY TO PURCHASE IT. LEFT THE DEALERSHIP AND THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. DIDNT TAKE THE EXTENDED WARRANTY DUE TO THE COST. RANG SALES CONSULTANT IMMEDIATELY. THEY ARE GONNA GET BACK TO ME. CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW SERIOUS THIS PROBLEM IS???? AND WHAT IS IT?

    MARYB
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    The seriousness of the problem cannot be assessed without a device they call a scanner capable of reading OBD codes stored in the car's computer system.

    I presume you have at least a 30-day Warranty on the purchase...

    You could go to an independant specializing in Hondas and have them read and tell you what the OBD (On Board Diagnostic) codes stored in the computer, also forcing the Check Engine Light (CEL) mean. ((Just make sure they don't reset the CEL!)) Then you'll have a better handle on what the dealership is going to do for you (free).

    Some people claim the auto-parts store chains will do this for you for free to win your business on parts and supplies, etc.

    It could be as simple as a Gas-Cap problem not forming a good seal so when the system does a vacuum check on the fuel system, it fails. Or it could be something much more serious.

    This is why I'm suggesting you get to an independant first to have knowlege in your pocket to use if necessary.

    You shouldn't have gotten a vehicle that throws a CEL. I would think the dealership (Honda?) should accomodate you.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Caps off please Mary, you're killing my eyes. First, I'd check the gas cap as the other poster has said. If it's loose, then that's most likely your problem. Then I'd take it back to the dealer. Even without a warranty, they "should" at least read the code for you. If they won't, then I'd take it to a local auto parts store like Auto Zone or Advanced Discount and they'll read the code for you for free and tell you likely causes.

    And I wouldn't hold my breath on your sales consultant getting back to you. I'd immediately take it to the service advisior. Explain that you just bought the car and politely "demand" this be fixed at no charge.

    Did you buy the vehicle from a Honda dealer? If so, they should do what's right and fix it for free. If not, then you're probably on your own.
  • You're the 0.9% of CRV owners complaining about this.
    First assumption for roaring noise would be old/deffected tire(s).
    Vibation when stopped could be bakes related.
    If that's not the case, then you really had a bad luck.
    I've been tested around 10 new CRV's, 2WD, 4WD, those cars are a dream to drive ....and to stop:))
    Dan
  • I have a 2003 CRV EX which does not exhibit PTTR - however, I bought this vehicle used and therefore do not know if the TSB solutions have been applied. I have two questions:

    Has anyone "created" a PTTR condition by changing to a wider (65 or 60 series) tire?

    Could a routine front end alignment at a non-Honda dealer undo the PTTR fix in the Honda TSB?
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Dual pump fluid = RT4WD fluid.

    It's the fluid used in the rear differential to create the hydraulic pressure which activates the AWD. It's not a lubricant, like engine oil, but it does wear out over the course of 30-50K miles.
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    "Could a routine front end alignment at a non-Honda dealer undo the PTTR fix in the Honda TSB?"

    The fix described in the TSB had the mechanic rotate the spring about 45 degrees so that it locks in on a different notch on the housing. I don't think that's the kind of thing the dealer would mess with performing an ordinary alignment.
  • kakookakoo Posts: 4
    :confuse: I bought my 04 CR-V brand new, and ever since I've had it, it makes this single clunk noise when I come to a stop after driving it for approx. 30 minutes (sometimes less, sometimes more). It doesn't matter if the car is idling/running or turned off. It sounds like it's coming from the muffler/exhaust (rear passenger side). The sound never flucuates (same pitch, level, etc.) every time it happens. It sounds exactly as if someone crushed a (thick) tin can and then popped it back out. It's NOT the engine (cooling down ticks, etc.).
    I've taken it to the dealer FOUR times now since I've had it and it's never done it for them, even when I drove with them. It happens at least 1 out of every 3 times I drive it, but there is NO pattern at all. I could possible go a couple of days and it won't do it, but it usually does it at least once a day. It doesn't matter if it's cold, hot, raining, snowing, full car, only me, junk in the trunk, empty trunk, brakes on/off, in park/drive, etc.
    It doesn't seem to affect the performance of the vehicle at all (for now at least). It's just a stupid annoying clunk. If it doesn't happen within the first minute or two after stopping, it won't do it at all (during that particular "travel").
    Someone PLEASE help me to figure out what this is so I can stop getting frustrated about it! The dealer can't just arbitrarily replace anything without knowing what it is.
  • First of all, I just wanted to thank the members of the forum for advice regarding wheel alignments. Replying to isellhondas, you are correct - the dealer did the best job and should no longer need to mess with it. Here is my question: I replaced the stock Bridgestone tires with the Goodyear Assurance triple tread. Tires hold the road like glue and handle quite well. As other posts on tirerack.com, I have noticed a 1-2 mile per gallon drop in fuel economy. My feeling is that it is due to increased rolling resistance of the tires. I inflated the tires to 35PSI and got some of the fuel economy back. The sticker in the door jam states to run tires at 26PSI while the tire sidewall states a maximum pressure of 44PSI. Is there a rule of thumb regarding inflation? This specific tire seems to like running a little on the harder side to overcome the deep tread pattern. Any thoughts? :confuse:
  • sky23213sky23213 Posts: 296
    I get exactly the same CLUNK on my '05 SE, "salutes" me about 10-15 min. after I put it in the garage. Haven't lost any sleep over it, thought it was something to do with the car cooling off. Looking forward to any comments from the knowledgeable guys here, though.
  • I'm new here, so forgive me if this has been addressed before.

    I've noticed a strange, burning odor coming from the right rear of my brand new 2006 CRV after driving -- it now has 350 miles on the odometer.

    I called my Honda dealer, and spoke with the very knowledgeable and friendly service manager.

    He told me not to worry about the odor. this is the normal break-in smell from the exhaust system, which should be gone after the first 1,000 miles.

    He also advised me that, in the winter months, I could expect to occasionally smell road-salt burning off the exposed exhaust system, and should not be concerned.
  • Ditto.. My 04 has done this exact same thing since it was brand new (of course not on the test drive) It comes from the right rear of the vehicle and is just a single clunk. I describe it as somebody banging a metal pot with a spoon thats what it sounds like to me. I've had a couple of Honda dealerships look at it, but neither could find anything wrong. I've just learned to live with it. I have 45,000 miles on the car now and nothing has been affected by the clunk. My car is an "S" vin, I wonder if there may be a pattern there?
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    So long as the tires are not bulging at the center of the tread, you should be fine. If the contact patch is nice and flat, you're good.

    The max pressure is up there so that the tire may be used with heavier vehicles. A vehicle weighing in at, oh say... 4,000 lbs would apply enough pressure on a 44 psi tire to flatten it out. A 3,400 lbs CR-V won't and you'd be messing with the effectiveness of the contact patch.

    Personally, I would never inflate my tires more than 4-5 psi higher than the recommended pressure. (Unless I were hauling heavy loads or towing.) That recommendation comes from engineers who tested the vehicle for performance, comfort, and safety. Who am I to second guess them.

    That said, plenty of owners have gone above 30 psi and are happy with the results.
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    I think your service manager is correct. It is not uncommon for a car to have some strange smells when breaking in. The exhaust system gets very hot and can burn off any residues which may have collected on the parts during assembly or shipping.
  • newfy2newfy2 Posts: 13
    Hi Racoon! You were right! It was the brake master cylinder sensor cap! Fortunately it was only a $35 part and I didn't have to pay the dx/labor as it was in for the 90K maintenance. Thanks!
  • I'm glad to hear it was fairly simple and inexpensive.
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    You've earned the right to tip over another trash can today. :D
  • Thank you. I read 26 psi but can go up to 35 psi for high speed driving. I don't think I will ever drive faster than 100 mph, especially in the snow.!!!
  • kakookakoo Posts: 4
    Sky - Thank you! This makes me feel like I'm not going crazy!
  • kakookakoo Posts: 4
    This makes me feel better. I wouldn't worry about this STUPID noise as long as I new it wasn't causing any long-term problems. Hopefully someone can lend any suggestions or solutions as to what it is. Thanks!
  • I have replaced my Duelers with the Goodyear Triple Tread as well and I am very happy with the road performance.
    I believe I have them set at 32 psi and haven't seen any significant loss of mileage per gallon. FYI..in this neck of the woods I have had much better mileage output with the Sunoco gas (regular) than any other major brand. It's usually less expensive as well.
  • Thanks for your results. Here are the changes which I have seen since replacing the tires:

    OEM Duelers:
    30psi - 20mpg city, 24mpg highway - tread was 80% worn after 26,000 miles, tires rotated every 4,000 miles

    Goodyear triple treads:
    26psi - ride too soft and handling was spongy.

    30psi - 19mpg city, 22mpg highway

    35psi - 20mpg city, 23-24 mpg highway

    At the same time I also replaced the battery - computer may be still calibrating for different driving style?

    Gasoline used mostly Sunoco but also Shell, BP and Marathon regular grade. I try to stay away from non-branded fuels.
  • heidi4heidi4 Posts: 12
    I am an owner of a 2000 CRV. It seems this type of car always makes some kind of rattling or clunking noises all the time; especially when there is no weight in the back. From what I've heard the links and bushings are one of the culprits and hinges on the back door are commonly changed on this car because they cause a clunking noise due to rusting (which is a big rusting place for the CRV).
  • heidi4heidi4 Posts: 12
    This may be silly but did you just fill it up? If you don't turn the gas cap at least 3 clicks the check engine light has a tendency to come on.
  • I have a 2006 CRV and I am not happy with it. Had a vibration harmonic sound at 2000 RPM when just maintaining a speed (not accelerating). Got a new exhaust put on. Still did it but not as bad. Took it to another dealer, they put on a new drive shaft. Took care of the harmonic buzz noise but I still notice the roaring noise you talk about when accelerating. My 2002 CRV was quieter than this one! I even changed the tires, thinking that was the problem. I am thinking of test driving another new CRV to see if they all sound like that.
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