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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Is the right way to check your engine oil on a leveled surface and making sure the engine is cold?
  • drive62drive62 Posts: 637
    Level yes, cold not so sure. I wait until the oil has dripped back into the pan, usually takes 10 minutes or so after shutting off the car. The car isn't cold at that point.
  • david73david73 Posts: 1
    I have experienced this in my 97 CR-V with 70,000 miles. It seems to happen only while keeping the speed constant (no acceleration or deceleration).

    I have brought mine back to the dealer and they cannot find anything wrong. Alignment, tires, suspension all appear to be OK.

    This problem has gotten progressively worse as time goes by. At times it has caused the entire front end to shake through to the steering column.

    I would appreciate any help or resolutions you may come across.

    Thanks
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    Varmint, I'm in Massachusetts like you. I recall you have used Master Mechanics Automotive in Natick for service as an alternative to the dealer. Per their web site they specialize in Hondas. I'm shopping them vs several local dealers for front brakes and turning roters (nasty rotor warp under load). You ever had them do brake work and are they more competitive?
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    They do brake work, but I can't recall whether their prices are competitive. We take our vehicles to them because they're good. Not necessarily because they're inexpensive.
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    FYI I just called both. They are basically the same as the dealer for front pads and rotor resurface (~$200). They did say however that the rears often just require $55 pads and be done. Dealer said typically another $200 for rear. I'm going to give your Natick place a try, they sound good.
  • mccshaunmccshaun Posts: 3
    Hello! Has anyone had a problem with their compressor 'exploding?' The dealer says that the compressor came apart internally, causing the entire system to be contaminated with metal parts. Does anyone have any experience with this?
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Do a search of this forum on "compressor exploded" and you'll find the posts. Have your dealer or you call Honda regional. Most folks have been reimbursed by Honda regional for most of the charges.
  • mccshaunmccshaun Posts: 3
    Thanks for your reply regarding the compressor. I am new to the forum and am not finding anything after searching for "compressor exploded." Any hints? Thanks again.
  • sky23213sky23213 Posts: 296
    Would anyone share if it is easy enough to change the cabin air filter on a 2005 CR-V? Owners manual does not describe it, and I've been trying in vain to hunt down a 2004 CR-V Repair Manual at the local library. The online Maintenance schedule at the Honda Owner's Link suggests aside from replacing it at 30k, also cleaning it at 15K. Replacement at the dealer around $70.00, while the pair is $19 from H&A, so I'm willing to pay myself $50 if it's possible.
    Thank You
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,863
    Go to the top of this page... and do a search for just compressor...

    That brings up quite a few posts about it...

    regards,
    kyfdx

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • wusterwuster Posts: 153
    On the first gen CR-V's the cabin air filter is behind the glove box. You have to remove it and a couple of cross beams to get to it.

    Takes about 45 mins or so (slightly longer in my case, cause I ended up with an extra screw. So I had to disassemble everything again to figure out where the extra screw came from. :blush: )

    I suspect the location of the filter housing for gen 2 is in the same place as gen 1.
  • therivertheriver Posts: 68
    I did it for the first time on an 04. First time takes about half hour, second time about 10 minutes. Would not spend 70 bucks.
  • mikel58mikel58 Posts: 3
    Hey there,

    My A/C compressor just exploded on Friday at the magical 50,000 mile mark as well.

    Seems as though the compressor, clutch, coil and dryer are all bad and need to be replaced and EVAC system needs to be recharged to the tune of $1300.00.

    When I told the dealership I would not have it repaired immediately, they quickly decided to call the Honda rep on my behalf tomorrow.

    We'll see what happens and I will report my findings. I am now armed with the knowledge I have gained here. Thanks for the posts.

    Other than this slight inconvenience in 98 degree Oklahoma dry/humid weather the car has performed almost as well as my 92 Accord.

    Until then....
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    When I told the dealership I would not have it repaired immediately, they quickly decided to call the Honda rep on my behalf tomorrow.

    It is your job to call Honda corporate, not the dealer's. It is in their interest not to have Honda get involved (they get paid less), it is in your interest to get Honda involved (you pay less).
  • mikel58mikel58 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the insight. I will say this however, the dealership called me today and Honda had offered to cover 75% of the cost. I balked at this and they are going to cover another $100.

    The Honda rep will be at the dealership tomorrow...Guess where I will be?
  • mccshaunmccshaun Posts: 3
    AFter my ac locked up and internally contaminating the system with metal debris, My quote was $2500.00 from the dealer to put in new compressor, clutch coil receiver, drier, and condenser plus flush and recharge. This seems like an enormous amount of money. Honda has offered to pay for parts, but labor will still cost me $600. Any other advice or comments??

    Shauna
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    AFter my ac locked up and internally contaminating the system with metal debris, My quote was $2500.00 from the dealer to put in new compressor, clutch coil receiver, drier, and condenser plus flush and recharge. This seems like an enormous amount of money. Honda has offered to pay for parts, but labor will still cost me $600. Any other advice or comments??

    Shauna


    Seems like 76% coverage is pretty good for a car 16,000 miles out of warranty. I don't know of any other manufacturer that even offers to pay partial repair bills after the warranty expired.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Thanks for the insight. I will say this however, the dealership called me today and Honda had offered to cover 75% of the cost. I balked at this and they are going to cover another $100.

    The Honda rep will be at the dealership tomorrow...Guess where I will be?


    That is pretty good. Usually dealerships say they will call, and never call and then tell you that Honda corporate rejected claim. They only get paid like $30/hour in labor and Invoice on parts if Honda is involved, and usually charge $80/hour for labor and MSRP for parts (2x of invoice)
  • I am experiencing the same problems with my 2004 crv and would like to know if you have come up with a solve.
    Thank You
  • kjakja Posts: 3
    My 2005 CR-V has noisy (tapping) valves only when first starting up a WARM engine.The tapping lasts only a few seconds, and there is no abnormal noise when running. The ODD thing is that when I start a COLD engine, there is NO valve tapping at all! This seems to be just the opposite of what it should be?

    Could the lifters be "draining down" because the oil (5w-20) thins down too much when warm, but OK when cold?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    The device you are plugging into the Cig Lighter should not be blowing the fuse. Some poorly designed devices have a large transient current demand when first powering up. They almost look like a short circuit (a piece of wire) to the fuse for a very short period of time.

    Do not get a higher amp fuse. Get a new charger.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    My 2005 CR-V has noisy (tapping) valves only when first starting up a WARM engine.The tapping lasts only a few seconds, and there is no abnormal noise when running. The ODD thing is that when I start a COLD engine, there is NO valve tapping at all! This seems to be just the opposite of what it should be?

    Could the lifters be "draining down" because the oil (5w-20) thins down too much when warm, but OK when cold?


    Check the oil level. When was the oil changed last time?
  • I have a 2001 Honda CR-V, about one month ago, the coolant level check light start to be ON when I hit brake pad. Usually, the light will be off after I release the brake pad.
    The first time, I filled up the coolant tank, but it still has the same problem. Please give me some help if you know the solution.
    Thanks.

    David
  • lorelei2lorelei2 Posts: 8
    Is anyone else experiencing excessive tire wear on their original tires? I have a 2005 with 21,000 miles and have rotated my tires on a regular basis and am already faced with replacing my tires for excessive wear.

    Any input?
  • stevec10stevec10 Posts: 10
    My 2005 CRV does the same thing. I checked the oil level and it was fine. I use synthetic 5w20. I have 2800 miles and 4 months on last oil change. I'm going to stop in my dealership tomorrow and ask service dept about it.
  • kjakja Posts: 3
    OIl level is right on the mark. I change oil every 3000 miles.
    I have my doubts about 5w-20w oil being too thin in warm weather
  • Has anyone had their automatic head light turnoff sensor blow out..my has twice the first time it was under warentee does any one know how to fix it...yea, I had the a/c compressor blow out on mine..with 60000 mi. I hear they will blow out again has any one had thiers go out twice...how did Honda handle it.
  • I agree with it should not so I had them replace the charger and the same results. I would never consider bigger than recommended fuse. Interesting is I have never used the outlet in the rear and checked it with my multimeter today and it has no power and the fuse is OK. My next approach is not to use the outlet for a while and see if it blows on its own. I have a 400w inverter which I will try after a few trips with no use.

    thank you for your response
  • mcndiayemcndiaye Posts: 2
    I have problem because my Honda CRV 200 car would not rev beyond 5000rpm and would not go over 80MPH. I have taken it every where, been told to chage MAP and O2 sensors which was done but still nothing.

    Could you plesase Help
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