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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • I am now using the other key..I do not have another smart key on the ring..it is only the one key for this CRV. I have to take the car next week and they are gonna give me a rental for the day...do you think I should just have them put in a new ignition switch and give me a new key???
  • I have one of those Exxon SpeedPass things that I had to remove from my keychain, because it sometimes interfered with the ignition on my Dodge Dakota. You don't happen to have one of those on your keyring, do you?
  • The only things I have on the keyring with the CRV key is a LED light "photon micro light....and one of those scan cards that goes on keyrings for CVS and Bennett Auto...should I take those off??? but, if they were the cause it would happen all the time wouldn't it??? Maybe I will remove them anyway in case..
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    the scan cards that have a barcode for discounts at various stores have no electronics in them to interfere with the immobilizer. i highly doubt you photon micro light would interfere either, it's proabably a button battery, switch, light emitting diode and resistor. nothing there to mess up the immobilizer.

    would i have them replace the ignition switch? no, i don't think so. i'd try to help your dealership by doing a little bit of ellimination / sleuthing myself.

    do i think your vehicle is going to leave you stranded? no, based on the fact that a second turn of the ignition helped both times, and also the vehicle hasn't shut down on you.

    at this point, if you can go a few consequtive (sp?) months without an issue, i'd probably suspect the FIRST non-valet key that was linked to the non-starts - then ask the dealership to replace that.

    but you're not sure what is occuring right now, and frankly, this IS the sort of problem that is really hard to track down at a dealership (like if it's one in one hundred start attempts or something).
  • The shift lever has locked into park. I have tried the shift lever lock release as described in the manual, which indicates to insert a screwdriver and "push down" on the lock release, but what they really mean to say is "push in". I used the extra key to do this after I read about this method on this site. Trouble is, it worked while the key is inserted, but doesn't after I start the car up again. Still can't get out of park, car does start and run. Any suggestions other than towing to the dealer? (of course it is Sunday and no one is open!)
  • One thing to try would be to take all of your keys and all of the remotes to the dealer and have them reprogrammed. This does not involve replacing any components but having the computer reset to recognize the different security codes. It may erase the glitch causing the no-start. Other possibility may be a bad contact in the starter relay? I had a car 10 years ago which did the same thing. It turned out that the starter was starting to go bad. Don't push the panic button based on my experience. ;)
  • You may be right about the key. Because I did switch keys and now my alarm works like it is supposed to..2x and the alarm sounds..with the other key I have to press 3 or 4 times..so maybe I will just have them reprogram all the keys and hopefully that will resolve my program. fingers crossed.
  • My 2002 CR-v with 70200 miles had the MIL light up. I took it to Autozone and had them read the code (they will do this for free) and it showed P1166 and P1167. After a little investigating online I found this is the front O2 sensor. Honda calls this the fuel/air ratio sensor. I bought a new one from Honda It took about 15 minutes to install and the light is now off.
  • My 2002 CR-V with ~ 80,000 miles has been making a rubbing/grinding noise when making sharp turns. This started about 5,000 to 10,000 miles ago and when it started I could only hear it if I listened carefully when making really tight turns, like with the steering turned all way. It gradually got worse over time and it would make the noise when making larger and larger radius turns.

    I spent some time reading the posts here at Edmunds and tried changing the rear differential fluid like some people suggested and it worked! All for about 1 hour of time and $15 and the noise is gone.

    It was an easy job. The only thing unexpected was that I had to remove the left rear tire to refill the fluid. I used a 3’ piece of tubing with a funnel taped to one end for this. It took about 1.25 L of the Honda dual pump fluid.
  • terry92270terry92270 Posts: 1,247
    Glad you found the solution, but isn't rear differential fluid replacement part of the scheduled maintenance, outlined in your maintenance list in the Owners Manual :confuse:
  • I purchased a new 06 in July. Unfortunately I did something to the surface of the cover for the center table and need to replace it. I found the part I needed and ordered it.

    Has anyone ever replaced the cover on their table? Is it a hard process. I was, of course, hoping the old one would just pop off and then pop the new one one. However, it is really tight, I'm thinking it might actually be screwed from the bottom up.

    However, looking at the diagrams for the center table assembly, it does not really show that part of the cover, only the top.

    Just wanted to see if anyone had any advice or experience with this.

    Thanks!
  • inkieinkie Posts: 281
    You should do it every 20k or so, next time use a turkey baster or buy a plastic pump from sears for around 3.00 bucks and you won't have to remove the tire.
  • ted16ted16 Posts: 7
    I have a problem with the srs module on 2002 crv. Started with interior light not coming on when driver door was open, then warning signal when headlights are left on and now srs light stays on. Curious as to how many people have had problems with srs module on 2002 crv's and cost incurred to replace module.ted16
  • re SRS light..just got back fron Honda dealer[$294 later] it was seat belt sensor drivers side[can't replace just the sensor]replace "female side" of seat belt..they have extended warranty period on "OPDS" whatever thats is..anyone else having trouble..Neebru
  • I have a CRV 2001 SE that I purchased March of 2001.

    I'm not sure if it's the weather, but recently after pulling off from the garage at the next stop sign about a 3rd of a mile (1/2 km) from home, my engine stopped.
    It happened again this morning, so I'm worried.

    It has (just)over 49K miles on it.

    After it first happened, I made sure to heat up the engine first before driving away. I'm not sure if it helped.
    This morning, I didn't heat it up that long, but I'm pretty sure I stayed idled for a few minutes before leaving home.

    Any ideas what's wrong?

    Thanks.
  • I live in Pennsylvania. I just noticed some rust spots under the seals of both the rear passenger doors near the top of the windows. It appears that the seals are not tight like the front doors'. The seals looked a little bumpy and I pulled them back and saw rust through the paint. I don't know whether it will be covered under warranty. I will be printing this out and going to the dealer tomorrow and see what they say.
  • ted16ted16 Posts: 7
    Honda website identifies OPDS as Occupant Position Detection System. Have not found anything extending warranty period. If you have more info on warranty, Please Share.
  • Extended warranty came right from dealers mouth on the OPDS. I was told 50/50 shot on my SRS light,unfortunately my problem not covered,but Honda does pay for diagnostic[big deal].
  • phisherphisher Posts: 175
    If the problem is the OPDS the problem can arise if a small weight is placed on the seat or the door. In my 06 it lights up if my dog (10 lb) is in the passenger seat or trying to look out the window. Don't know if this helps though.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I have a CRV 2001 SE that I purchased March of 2001.

    I'm not sure if it's the weather, but recently after pulling off from the garage at the next stop sign about a 3rd of a mile (1/2 km) from home, my engine stopped.
    It happened again this morning, so I'm worried.

    It has (just)over 49K miles on it.

    After it first happened, I made sure to heat up the engine first before driving away. I'm not sure if it helped.
    This morning, I didn't heat it up that long, but I'm pretty sure I stayed idled for a few minutes before leaving home.

    Any ideas what's wrong?

    Thanks.


    If valves were never adjusted, they tighten with time.

    If your engine is very quiet, then the vlaves are really tight. Most Honda engines produce a ticking sound. Tight vlaves may lead to burned valve seats which require head replacement. Honda messed up the OWNER's MANUAL and listed the valve adjustment period wrong. They will cover most if not all the work if contacted directly, NOT DEALER, but Honda corporate. The number is on the back of the OWNER's MANUAL.

    Good luck.
  • Honda messed up the OWNER's MANUAL and listed the valve adjustment period wrong.

    So, when should you have the valves adjusted?
  • In 5th gear, at 65 MPH my 2003 CR-V rpms are at 3300. This seems high to me, becasue with my 3 speed AT civic the rpms are only at 2400 at 65mph.

    The dealer says this is OK as that is the way Honda setup the gear ratio with the manual tranmissions.

    Is this really OK? It seems like it would decrease gas milage and put more wear-n-tear on the engine. An extra 900 rpms will a lot more wear on the engine over time :-(

    Shifting from 4th to 5th gear lowers the rpm very little, why would Honda do that, why not just make 5th gear a higher ratio. When my civic [non-permissible content removed] to the last gear you see the rpms drop quite a bit.

    Why didn't Honda just make 5th gear like an overdive??
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,863
    I ran about 2950 at 80 MPH on my 2003. The MT actually has higher RPMs than the AT.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    So, when should you have the valves adjusted?

    Every 30,000 miles, just like every other B-series powered Honda. Dealers usually know and will insist that valves are adjusted at 30,000 mile intervals. It usually runs $100 to have the dealer perform this service. Rear differential should be drained and refilled at 30,000 mile intervals as well.

    This was pure marketing sham on Honda's part to lower the cost of ownership. Shame, Shame. On the bright side, Honda knows about it and will cover most of the expenses associated with the lack of service.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Shifting from 4th to 5th gear lowers the rpm very little, why would Honda do that, why not just make 5th gear a higher ratio. When my civic [non-permissible content removed] to the last gear you see the rpms drop quite a bit.

    Why didn't Honda just make 5th gear like an overdive??


    Because people complained that cruise control would not maintain speed in 5th gear. So, by lowering the 5th gear ratio, the combination of higher RPM and shorter gearing produces more power to overcome hills and inclines to maintain speed.

    What year Civic has 3 speed auto?

    Mine revs around 3500 RPM at 80 mph, around 2700 RPM at 65 mph, all in 5th. I have a 2005 EX manual. Which is still better than the Civic Si (2002) which reved at 4000 RPM at 80 mph.

    On the bright side, the transmission retained the spacer reserved for the 6th gear. Some have replaced the spacer with the 6th gear from TSX/Civic Si/RSX and now have 6th gear. :)
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,863
    "So, when should you have the valves adjusted?

    Every 30,000 miles, just like every other B-series powered Honda. Dealers usually know and will insist that valves are adjusted at 30,000 mile intervals."

    For a 2003 CR-V, the Honda owners website lists the valve inspection at 110,000 miles. I went through every interval on the severe schedule until I found this entry.

    The CR-V is a K-series motor, not B-series.
  • Asking for some advice. My wife's '06 CR-V has 7,500 miles on it. Even though the manual lists oil-change / tire rotation intervals of 10,000 miles I am planning to do it now.
    When I called in for an appointment, the service rep is telling me that I need to have the rear differential fluid changed now or I risk it making noise and causing damage to it. When I asked if it was recommended by Honda in the owners manual they said no, but that Honda does recommend it at 7,500 miles for the first change then 15,000 miles thereafter. I checked the owners manual and it if specs every 90,000 miles.
    I'm guessing the dealer is just trying to hustle extra money out of me, and I'm more than a little angry about it. Just wondering if my anger is warrented. Thanks! :mad:
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,863
    "I'm guessing the dealer is just trying to hustle extra money out of me, and I'm more than a little angry about it. Just wondering if my anger is warrented. Thanks!"

    Yup, he is taking you for a ride. Tell them you want to stick with the maintenance schedule as presented by the automobile. The computer will tell you when maintenance is due.

    Or ask them to show you and official Honda maintenance schedule (there isn't one - the owner is expected to follow the maintenance minder).

    Oh, yeah, and find yourself a different Honda dealer.

    You can go to the following link, which is the Honda Owners site. They will have the maintenance schedule.

    Official Honda Owners Website
  • blueiedgod had said: "...the transmission retained the spacer reserved for the 6th gear. Some have replaced the spacer with the 6th gear... & now have 6th gear"

    Does this mean I could replace the spacer and add a 6th gear on my 2003 CR-V?
  • Thanks for the reply. I don't know what to do about the dealership. I started with the one where we purchased the vehicle because of the 3 different grades of engine oil they proposed. The "regular" oil is only good to 3500 miles according to them.
    No honest dealers in my area it appears (Southeast MA, RI)
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