Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

1166167169171172227

Comments

  • Do you have steering wheel audio controls on a 2006 or earlier model? I know the middle button switches to the next preset on the radio, but what does it do if you're on CD? Does it advance to the next track?

    Reason I ask is, I'm thinking of adding the controls, and I'd like to know what it will do when CD is on. My 2004 LX doesn't even have this in the manual, since it wasn't an option then.

    Thanks!

    (I'd post this in the 2006 forum, but it doesn't look like that forum is very active nowadays... :( )
  • Hi

    There is a buzzer that will not stop unluss I turn on my headlights on my 2002 CRV. This is a big pain since sometimes I forget to turn off my headlights when I turn off the vehicle. Is there anyway to turn off this buzzer or perhaps get it to do something useful like sound when I have left my headlights on?

    Thanks
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,863
    "There is a buzzer that will not stop unluss I turn on my headlights on my 2002 CRV. This is a big pain since sometimes I forget to turn off my headlights when I turn off the vehicle. Is there anyway to turn off this buzzer or perhaps get it to do something useful like sound when I have left my headlights on?"

    It sounds like the relay that turns on the buzzer for the "lights on, engine off" buzzer is broken. Have the dealer fix the problem...
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    The solution: I traded my CR-V for a Subaru Outback (LL Bean edition). I LOVE IT. I miss the shape and interior design of the CR-V, but not the rough idle or having to change the differential fluid at 22k. I will never buy another 4 cylinder Honda again. From what I hear, the V6 Hondas don't seem to have the rough idle problem.

    The main reason I wouldn't get a Subaru is the engine vibrations transmitted through the shifter and the steering wheel. I think LL Bean uses H6, but it is still the boxer engine design, if I am correct, which is inherently shakier.

    By the way, V6 Honda engine and automatic transmission should not be put in the same sentnce.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    If you want to stay with stock stay on it... just look what the Honda Race Team use. Is it stock?? If they do they can't race. Good Luck! I never have problem with my CRV with K&N and Slick 50 in fact it perform better.

    Do you have any dyno charts to substantiate that "it perform better"

    How many miles have you been driving with this combination?

    How many miles are you expecting to drive this car?

    Honda race teams also rebuild their engines after each race, do you?
  • m1042m1042 Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 CRV. A few weeks ago the Check Engine light went on, no noticible problem. I went to Auto Zone and it was the Throttle Body that no one carries. Very expensive. I investigated further by going to a mechanic who subscribes to ALLDATA. There is a Technical Service Bulletin dated May 6, 2005 supersedes the March 30, 2004 bulletin. Quote: "The throttle position sensor in certain throttle bodies becomes contaminated due to a manufacturing defect". Honda? What's Up????
  • I had the same problem. Check to see if both of your "running lights" are on without the lights turned on. Most likely one is out. Is the "DRL" light on the dash illuminated? If so, the "running light" relay is toast. If the buzzing is coming from under the dash near your left foot, it is most likely the problem. I changed mine myself but it wasn't easy. The panel under the dash near the steering column is removed by turning the toggles. There are two relays mounted on a bracket that look like little black boxes. I dropped the bracket and then removed the box marked "running light relay" and replaced it with a new one from the dealer. About $110.00 Cdn. I think. If you can stand on your head and don't wear bifocals it's not too hard to do. Good luck!
  • Can anyone give me some advice.

    I had a CR-V diesel one year ago and was told that Honda had no service books but one would be sent to me, which i never recieved, when i asked when does it need a service the delivery driver told me 20k miles. it's no done 19.5k miles and developed an engine rattle, i took it to my local Honda dealer and have been told it needs a new engine because it's run out of oil, no oil warning light was displayed in the car but Honda say there is enough oil in the sump to stop that happening but not enough to stop the engine being broken. I've been told by Honda that i must now pay £8500 for a new engine.
    Any advice would be gratful. Dave
  • mnfmnf Posts: 404
    Next Song..

    MNF
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Can anyone give me some advice.

    I had a CR-V diesel one year ago and was told that Honda had no service books but one would be sent to me, which i never recieved, when i asked when does it need a service the delivery driver told me 20k miles. it's no done 19.5k miles and developed an engine rattle, i took it to my local Honda dealer and have been told it needs a new engine because it's run out of oil, no oil warning light was displayed in the car but Honda say there is enough oil in the sump to stop that happening but not enough to stop the engine being broken. I've been told by Honda that i must now pay £8500 for a new engine.
    Any advice would be gratful. Dave


    Did you drive it for 19,500 miles without changing oil?

    How often did you check the oil level with the dipstick?

    Did you perform any other maintenance on the CR-V in the last 19,500 miles?
  • crvme3crvme3 Posts: 140
    Dave... Many questions come to mind with 19.5k miles were did the oil go? is vehicle leaking? is engine using/burning oil? was it never full from day one?. Unfortunately it is up to the vehicles owner to check & maintain proper fluid levels. One should always on a regular basis clance under car to check for leaks & monitor fluid levels and address accordingly if a problem is found. Engine coolant & engine oil are the life blood of any internal combustion engine, significant loss of either one of these & major engine failure is often the result. Never rely on a warning (idiot) lite to tell you something is wrong. Options ??? beg & plead mercy to Honda Motor company, shop out & independent garage that may be able to do better on price. Purchase a good used motor have it installed. Or have lessons learned & dump vehicle & move on. All the luck to you... :mad:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Well I wouldn't call this DamHonda. I can't imagine that any arbitration lawyer would side with you.

    Cars historically for years have always needed oil changes at a maximum of 3K miles, and for those that have owned diesels know that oil changes are particularly important because of the diesel by-products that end up in the oil. As technologies have improved over the years you can now generally get 5K miles on an oil change (with synthetics little longer). Some very high dollar cars with very tight engine clearances claim oil change periods of around 10K with synthetic oils and large oil pans containing large oil quantities. However, with oil and oil changes so in-expensive, makes no sense to take the risk and try to stretch mileage limits.

    Anyone that has owned a car, or knows anyone that has had a car, know that multiple oil changes a year are required. That's why I think you'll find no legal arbitrator siding with you....they know THEY have to change THEIR oil, so do you. I also think it's a weak leg to stand on saying they never sent you a manual. If you could prove you were at the dealer every week demanding a manual, and have sent multiple letters to the dealership and Honda over the course of 2 years...you MIGHT have a case.

    Because of the significant financial impact, this is certainly worth your time to pursue with Honda for some leniency financial assistance from them. Unfortunately I think you're going to be stuck with a VERY expensive repair bill, and need to figure out how to minimize the impact to you. If you can't find a sympathetic ear at Honda (and hence have to pay full list price and labor), I would suggest you look into whether you can find a similar model crashed/totalled vehicle at a junkyard, perhaps something that was hit from behind or the side......and investigate the cost of getting that engine and having it installed. I'm not sure I'd want anyone to try rebuilding my existing blown engine, as every moving part is probably scored pretty badly, with metal filings all over the place.

    Another possibility is that you have them take it as-is on trade, and buy your replacement car from them.

    Wow, best of luck in getting this resolved.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I think that "Maintenance required" light would give this person a clue.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    A case can be made for electric cars with maintenance free batteries...........
  • inkieinkie Posts: 281
    I have been using Honda Parts 4U to get all my required parts. They no longer are selling on line or taking telephone orders. Could someone reccommend an on line Honda Parts seller on the east coast or mid atlantic states? Thanx
  • gasincgasinc Posts: 1
    I just got the same news and found the same "manufacturing defect" as the 'problem cause'. I'll be calling Honda to try to work it out. This reminds me of my Mitsubishi Montero - nothing but BS service problems caused by poor engineering. Hopefully Honda will step up on this one. I bought this car new, and never received a service bulletin. If the Throttle Position Sensor itself were replaceable (like on most cars), I'd have bought it for $100 and it would already be installed by now. They quoted the part at $600+, and the installed price at $900+. it is all because the sensor is built into the throttle body. You have to replace the whole assembly, not just the sensor. Poor design! I expect more out of Honda (and I am usually right). This one got buy. If they stand behind their product, I'll keep buying Honda - if Not . . . . . We'll see.
  • esteezeesteeze Posts: 102
    I can imagine how frustrating this must be...

    I had the part fail in my 03 EX AWD at 35K miles, so I just fell under the orginal warranty (whew!). I could have easily been on the "other side" of 36K.
  • madams1madams1 Posts: 101
    We also just had this replaced at 57,000 miles under the extended warranty. I knew that something was wrong when it started idiling weird, bucking, etc. along with the check engine light. I should have asked the dealer, but has the problem been fixed on the 'new' one that was installed or is this likely to happen again?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    but that is soo much more efficient from a parts stocking and shipping point of view. If you do this across the product line, there are many less part numbers to stock and inventory to carry.

    This yields lower overhead costs, and ultimately lower new car prices (or so the theory is).

    And when you stop to think about it compared to value of cars YEARS ago (of course uplifting for inflation), you can get a really nice set of cars to choose from in the less than 20K range.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I have been using Honda Parts 4U to get all my required parts. They no longer are selling on line or taking telephone orders. Could someone reccommend an on line Honda Parts seller on the east coast or mid atlantic states? Thanx

    If Honda parts 4 u is the same as http://www.fairhondapartsforyou.com then you can still order from them, since your name is still in the database. I used to buy from them too, and pick up in person.

    Now, I buy from http://www.hondaacuraworld.com and pick up in person. They don't charge shipping, but do charge $5 handling per order. If a part is not listed on the website, give them a call and they will get it for you. They are in suburb of Buffalo, NY, so shipping to NE and Mid-atlantic should only take a day or two.
  • inkieinkie Posts: 281
    Thanks, Thats the ones that I am looking for. I had the names of all the suppliers but discarded them because Parts 4u was so good. Let that be a lesson don't throw anything out. Yes! thats Fair Honda, they said I can order but I must pick up.Thats a long trip from PA. Thanks to both of you. I know these sites were mentioned here but my searches were not successful.
  • namragnamrag Posts: 7
    I just developed a rattle in the exhaust system of my 2000 EX w/ 128K miles a few days ago, so last night cawled underneath to investigate.
    I found that the heat shield (atleast that is what I call it) on the top side (between converter and car body) has corroded away at the attachment points and is rattling on the catalytic converter.

    I am hoping that the shield is available seperately from the converter as the shield appears to be a simple aluminum type sheet, and would be expected to be cheaper than an entire catalytic converter.

    However, I have been unable to locate this part online at any parts sites.
    Is anyione familiar with this part? Do I have the correct nomenclature? Can it be replaced without having to replace the entire catalytic converter?

    Thanks.
  • No need to replace the heat shields. To do so you may end up damaging the converter. The screws which hold the shields in place go into the converter and are usually rusted solid and will break if loosened. I looked into it when mine started to rattle and the dealer said "just remove it." Huh?!! What I ended up doing and works perfectly is to go to the hardware store and buy large hose clamps. Put those around and tighten. Get the stainless ones because the other ones will rust apart. I think I bought ones which were 4.5" or 6" size. Not too bad of a job.
  • namragnamrag Posts: 7
    Thanks for the advice. That should help save me some money!
  • Should you opt to replace the parts, you're probably looking at item #18182-P75-A10, which can be ordered through Bernardi, College Hills, or your local dealer. It retails at about $41, but can be had cheaper, online.

    If you want to look it up yourself on the Bernardi site, in the parts search section, choose "Electrical / Exhaust / Heater / Fuel" under "System", and "3. Exhaust Pipe" under "Component." RefNo #005_2 is the upper shield.
  • Go to Home Depot and get a 4"-7" stainless steel hose clamp in the plumbing department. They cost $1.85. Wrap it around the heat shield and tighten it. Rattle gone. Problem fixed.
  • inkieinkie Posts: 281
    You guys were nice enough to give me the names of the Honda parts sellers when I posted an inquiry. So I would like to return the favor.Did extensive research and came up with www.bernardiparts.com up in Mass. and RI. Has every part and maintenence item you need with parts lists and diagrams. The prices are very close to now defunct Honda parts 4 U.No handleing charges. Ordered Monday recieved shipment today. Funny, one of the posters mentioned bernardi {post5200}
  • mnfmnf Posts: 404
    Correct , I have used them in the past and also purchased my extended warranty from them last summer.

    :).... MNF
  • Wow!!! That's considerably less than I paid at the hardware store. :blush:
Sign In or Register to comment.