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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I bought my 2003 CRV in Aug. 2005. It had about 15.000 miles on it. Since then it has been necessary to turn the roters twice and replace the pads once. I don't brake hard nor do I drive in rush hour traffic. Is this normal for a Honda? This is my first - I have driven Toyotas in the past.
    Carol19


    If whoever installed the wheels did not torque them properly, using torque wrench (not torque sticks which are inaccurate) to 80 lbs, or torqued them unevenly, it will cause the rotor to warp from uneven/incorrect pressure on the rotor hat.

    If whoever installed wheels used impact driver to put the lug nuts on, no turning will help, you will need to get new rotors.

    Also, let go of the brakes after the vehicle stopped. This way the rotors don't develop heat spots where the brake pads are pressed against heated rotor for prolonged period of time (like wiating at a light). The rest of the rotor cools off, while the area covered by the pads is still hot. This can cause the rotor to warp as well.
  • cohappycohappy Posts: 6
    I have this problem on my 2002 crv. My tires rub when turned hard to either side. I know there is an adjustment but do not know how to do it. I believe you adjust the tie rod ends, but am not sure any help would be appreciated.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I have this problem on my 2002 crv. My tires rub when turned hard to either side. I know there is an adjustment but do not know how to do it. I believe you adjust the tie rod ends, but am not sure any help would be appreciated.

    1) It shouldn't rub if you are running on stock sized tires and stock suspension.

    2) If you have different size rim/tires or modified suspension see 1.
  • cohappycohappy Posts: 6
    Tire or rim size never changed, this has done this since new. A friend of mine says it was not adjusted right. I need to know how to adjust it.
  • dan bitmandan bitman Posts: 158
    on my 05LX, I hear a continuous click-click-click- when the turn signal is engaged and steering wheel is returnig from max steerings ( to the left or right). Also, while driving to a complete STOP (at a stop light for ex), I hear another click coming from inside the auto stick where the P,N,D,R are activated
    Car still in warranty...went to the dealer...said it's "normal" for all GEN2. It's actually annoying. Too many clicks...like there's something's cracking inside every time I take a turn or stop.Cheap thing feeling.... :lemon: Anyone else encountering this?
    thanks
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Tire or rim size never changed, this has done this since new. A friend of mine says it was not adjusted right. I need to know how to adjust it.

    So, it has been rubbing for the last 5 years, and you never had the dealer look at it while the vehicle was under warranty?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    on my 05LX, I hear a continuous click-click-click- when the turn signal is engaged and steering wheel is returnig from max steerings ( to the left or right). Also, while driving to a complete STOP (at a stop light for ex), I hear another click coming from inside the auto stick where the P,N,D,R are activated
    Car still in warranty...went to the dealer...said it's "normal" for all GEN2. It's actually annoying. Too many clicks...like there's something's cracking inside every time I take a turn or stop.Cheap thing feeling.... Anyone else encountering this?
    thanks


    The click click click when you turn the steering wheel with the turn signal enagaged is the automatic turn signal cancel mechanism.

    The clicking from the steering column when you slow down is lock out solenoid. It prevents you from shifting into R while the car is forward motion. Manual's don't have it, but Honda feels that auto drivers would not know that you can damage the transmission by shifting into Reverse while in forward motion. Or perhaps there has been an incident that resulted in litigation, hence the lock out solenoid.
  • eroc69eroc69 Posts: 56
    I have an appointment next week to replace the driver seat track. Lets hope that fixes the rocking motion ive experienced for a few years..
  • dan bitmandan bitman Posts: 158
    thank you for the explanation. I got the same answers from other owners on other CRV sites. I am glad it's not an issue I need to fix, but I am dissapointed also that Honda couldn't figure out a more silent mechanism for the lock out solenoid and signal cancellation. I drove many cars so far, but NONE of them had so many clicks in the steering wheel. IMO, this sound like a cheap thing not worthing the name of Honda
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    thank you for the explanation. I got the same answers from other owners on other CRV sites. I am glad it's not an issue I need to fix, but I am dissapointed also that Honda couldn't figure out a more silent mechanism for the lock out solenoid and signal cancellation. I drove many cars so far, but NONE of them had so many clicks in the steering wheel. IMO, this sound like a cheap thing not worthing the name of Honda

    You are welcome.

    The noises will subside as the parts wear in/out with time and use. For now, just crank up the radio... :)

    Honda has never been known to be a quiet vehicle. Toyota and Buick are, but not Honda. The intent is for the driver to be an active participant in driving, instead of the casual spectator. Some like that, some don't. Tha is why we have many varieties...
  • zipalotzipalot Posts: 3
    I am installing a trailer hitch and need to remove the trim panel to install the wiring. Has anyone done this already and can give me some advice on how to remove the trim panel on the drivers side rear cargo area. The instruction that came with the wiring harness leave a lot to be desired
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Posts: 191
    Go to collegehillshonda.com and click on the installation instructions.
  • Dragging pads will wear things out prematurely also. I found out the hard way after replacing pads every 6 months. There was a build up of corrosion on the caliper bracket which was wedging the pads so they wouldn't slide anymore. The heat damaged the rotors as well. It was hard to find because it was underneath the metal shims the pads slide on.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Dragging pads will wear things out prematurely also. I found out the hard way after replacing pads every 6 months. There was a build up of corrosion on the caliper bracket which was wedging the pads so they wouldn't slide anymore. The heat damaged the rotors as well. It was hard to find because it was underneath the metal shims the pads slide on.

    My right rear sliders froze last spring after winter season. Honda recommends lubricating all the moving parts with Molykote-77 for people in the snow areas.

    I bought a tub of Molykote-77 for like $4 from Honda. It has enough grease to do thousands of cars.
  • therivertheriver Posts: 68
    One of light on one of the three dials on my 04 CRV blew out. It is the one that adjust the fan speed, so it is tough to see at night and looks kind of ridiculous with the other two dials lit. It looks like you would just pop the piece off with a small screwdriver.

    Is that how it is done.

    thanks
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    One of light on one of the three dials on my 04 CRV blew out. It is the one that adjust the fan speed, so it is tough to see at night and looks kind of ridiculous with the other two dials lit. It looks like you would just pop the piece off with a small screwdriver.

    Is that how it is done.

    thanks


    You reach it from the back of the HVAC controller unit. Remove the radio following Sub, XM, or Changer installation instructions on www.handa-accessories.com (site sponsor) then remove the HVAC controller. The bulbs are mounted on the back of the PCB.

    If you think you are going to be doing a lot of DIY on this vehicle, invest in a Helms manual.
  • dan bitmandan bitman Posts: 158
    Few days ago, while driving 70mph on highway, I drove with the left wheels over a large piece of an exploded truck tire that I couldn’t see it in time due to the traffic.
    Impact was though. After a minute I felt that car is acting like one of its tires blew out. I stopped on the shoulder and checked the underneath of the CRV and its tires, but nothing wrong. I was able to continue driving home, where I did a thoroughly check and still could not find any “visible” signs of the impact. Next day, soon as I was on the highway driving 70mph, the CRV started to act the same way. No vibration, just a loud wobbling sound, like driving with a flat tire. I slow down to 55 mph, continuing driving, and after a minute the wobbling disappeared. I accelerated back to 70-75 mph, and everything was OK, cruising at 75-80 mpg for an hour.
    Yesterday, soon as I was on the highway, I had the same problem at70 mph. Now that I cannot see any visible damage, I am thinking that around 70 mph speed one of the tires had been internally damaged on the impact and is getting into the wobbling resonance/vibration mode. But still…why is this disappearing soon as I slow down, and does not reoccur when driving high speeds again?
    Tires are Kumho, in good condition, drove with them since I’ve purchased the car, same highway, same speed , tire pressure 30, never had a problem. It all started after that impact with the piece of tire.
    I find it pretty odd with all the logicality I’m coming up…
    Please advise if you could.
    Thanks in advance,
    Dan
    PS My CRV is a 2005 , 2WD, 14K miles.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Have your tires spun balanced...you'll probably see one of the left ones wobbling with a bent rim. Another way to check for one that is really wobbling, is to have someone drive your vehicle down the interstate. You follow in another vehicle, and sight up and down the sides as you follow behind and around. You'll probably be able to see which tire is causing the wobble.
  • dan bitmandan bitman Posts: 158
    shouldn't a bent rim producing wobbling every / all the times I am driving at higher then 70 mph?
    in my case it only happens the first time I am reaching 70 on highway.
    thanks for your input, anyway
    dan
  • phisherphisher Posts: 175
    Our Accord had a dent on the inside of the steel rim and it caused the steering wheel to shake at higher speeds but not at lower speeds. Brought it in to my local tire shop and they pulled the tire off the rim and you could see the damage clear as day. I don't know why my wheel didn't wobble at lower speeds but your story sound alot like what I experienced. BTW the damage to our rim was also caused by hitting something on the road also.
  • bpamplinbpamplin Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Honda CRV, How do you install the front license plate?
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Posts: 191
    Are you serious?
    Put 2 screws in the two holes and turn or take the car to the dealer, it's free.
  • crvme3crvme3 Posts: 140
    Dan,
    That truly is an odd one... That you would get the vibration feel only on the first run up to 70mph. Did you check real good around the axle shafts. Possibly part of the truck tire casing has wrapped around one of them. Each axle has a rubber "vibration damper": donut & due to the slight angle downward towards the wheel a piece of this casing may be caught or hung up on it... As you speed up to 70mph it may be enough to throw the axle out of balance, subsequently as you slow down the spinning of the axle may cause it to move thus you don't feel it on second run up... After you have stopped/parked it may slip down again. Just a shot in the dark my friend. Good luck with this puzzle :)
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    that's a good guess.

    i remember a friend driving through some mud once with one wheel when parking at a campsite in the woods. when he took off the next day, he experienced high-vibration at speed. turns out some mud hardened on the inside of the rim throwing off the balance of that tire.

    a good spray with a water hose to remove the caked mud put everything right.

    related story, but not about vibration: my wife not long ago ran over some road debris in our ODY van and didn't tell me. i drove the car and noted creaking comming from the rear of the vehicle. for a few days, i thought maybe a rear strut was loose. finally i get fed up, and drive the vehicle's passenger side up onto the curb so i can scoot myself under the rear of the car more easily. lo-and-behold i find an iron water shut-off pole (these things are like 4feet long) wedged up into the rear spring. it had to be placed on a hydraulic lift to unload the spring so we could get the pole out.

    wow, i couldn't believe our luck. no damage to the ABS / brake lines, cat convertor, muffler, and no puncture to the fuel tank.

    hopefully, the poster can get this solved easily and inexpensively.
  • crvme3crvme3 Posts: 140
    Good road hazzard story... Years back was driving through Death Valley Calif. on a small 1 lane service road just checking out the sites, rounded a corner to find a wild Mule just standing in the roadway, I had to stop fairly short to avoid hitting him & the dam thing would not move... After about a 10 min stare down (mule & I) & not really sure what was on his mind, I did what any red blooded American would do- I honked the horn!... "BIG MISTAKE" my friend the Mule proceeded to kick the living you know what out of the front of my car. Luckily he did not do any mechanical damage (A/C condenser, radiator etc.) But before he was done he destroyed my grille hood & 1 headlite. You can only guess what the frame of my mind was like the remainder of that road trip. :mad:
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,794
    "Are you serious?
    Put 2 screws in the two holes and turn or take the car to the dealer, it's free."

    Some states do not require the front license plate, so the frame for the front is not included in delivery. The dealer should be able to provide the frame.
  • boqibamaboqibama Posts: 25
    Need your help. Recently the crack noise came out on my 06 crv from the passenger rear side. It only happens when the car makes the first take off with more than 3 passengers inside. The dealer changed the rear suspension, the noise disappeared and back again after 3 weeks. They have no idea now. Did anybody experience this before? I am a bit mad that it happens on a 1 year old car. Thank you in advance.
  • Good morning - I have a 2002 CRV and a few months ago I started having issues with my keyless remote. It will lock and unlock all of the doors except the driver side and will only unlock the other doors after two pushes on the button. I changed the battery in the remote and nothing changed....So -- I've been using the key to open and lock the driver side door. Now - I am starting to have difficulties in getting the key INTO the door lock - it sticks and I have to take it out and do it again - sometimes three or four times before it slides in and allows me to lock or unlock the driver side door. Any thoughts?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 28,679
    It sounds like the problem is with your driver's side door lock, not the remote. Maybe some screws lose, and the lock cylinder has shifted?

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  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    and will only unlock the other doors after two pushes on the button.

    And the OWNER's MANUAL says that you need to press the "unlock" button twice to unlock other doors. First press unlocks the driver's door, and second press unlocks the rest.

    Sounds like your problem is not with the remote but with the driver's door lock. It is either dirty, or corroded.

    Check if the solenoid and actuator work when pressing the "lock" or "unlock" buttons on the remote or the button inside the vehicle. Chances are your driver's door will not work when the button inside is pressed.

    If you hear the noise, but nothing happens, remove the door skin and see if the linkages are still intact.

    Most likely culprit is the solenoid, and needs to be replaced.
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