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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Posts: 191
    It's in the owners manual page 260.
  • mercemerce Posts: 1
    howdy, i have an 04 crv that groans when turned all the way and a dealer told me that maybe it is the rear differential fluid deteriorating, but this doesnt sound right to me. did you get your problem resolved? any suggestions for me. thank you, marc
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    very likely, the dealer is correct. i believe there is a TSB on this TSB# 06012004.(NHTSA ID #10014127, MAY 16 2004)
  • cdamechcdamech Posts: 31
    Yes, the Rear Differential was flushed 3 times by the dealer. They seem to know about this. Upon further investigation, what I found out is that Honda CRV 4 Wheel drive system has a HYDRAULIC linkage system and when the rear differential fluid is contaminated, the Hydraulic linkage does not work properply and causes improper functions which include vibrations through out the whole system. Most notibly when you make right or left turns with the wheels all the way turned during sharp turns.
    Mine came up at 23,000 Km when the manual stated 90,000 Km on my Honda 2006 CRV. Apparently the rear differential has breather hole that allow contaminants in early. So I will continue to replace every 25,000 Km. It was covered under the Drive Train warranty. The Dealer will take care of you if you ask for a courtesy warranty. Good Luck.
  • I had some lack of power with my automatic over the weekend. I had a full load of passengers and cargo. I had to stand on the accelerator to maintain highway speeds uphill. The RPMs would not go past 4,000. Could I have gotten a bad tank of gas or is this normal under a load?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,370
    I wonder why the transmission didn't down-shift? That sounds more like a transmission issue. It is possible to get to a point where the load exceeds the capability of the vehicle to accelerate, but not at 4K RPM.. you should get a down-shift.

    Unless of course, you are going 85 mph, and the downshift would put you over the redline in a lower gear.. Sounds like that may be what happened?

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  • kay_jaykay_jay Posts: 33
    Go by what your owner's manual says, not the dealer.

    Thanks for the tip.


    Somehow I lost the honda crv 2007 maintainence log book. Is there any way, I can purchase a new log book? what will be the cost? Also, if you can help, can you please let me know when do I need to go for 2nd maintainence. I already have 8000 miles.
    Thanks for your help.
  • Actually I was only going about 63 mph. It felt as if it had already downshifted and would not go past 4,000 RPM to keep up speed. Grade logic kicking in? :confuse:
  • hammer7hammer7 Posts: 2
    I posted a similar message before.My 2003 CRV is burning 1 and 1/2 quarts of oil in about 800 miles.After an oil change and 800 miles of normal driving the oil is dark grayish black and down 1-1/2 quarts.The vehicle has 48000 miles on it.The Honda dealership where I purchased this vehicle and seven other vehicles say that this is perfectly normal.With the initial purchase I purchased an extended warranty for 7 years or 100,000 miles from the dealership for $1400.This vendor has since went bankrupt but the dealership has stated that they will honor the warranty on a case by case basis.It seems that they recognize a serious expensive problem and choose to ignore it.The national Honda help line has concurred with the dealership in stating that the oil consumption is normal.My son is an attorney and advises that I should get the problem independently diagnosed and repaired pay for the repairs myself and then sue the dealership in small-claims court to recover my expenditures.Any thoughts on the cause of the oil consumption or the suggested approach to recover my outlay.As an additional statement I have not burned one drop of oil in my seven previous Hondas.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Just trade it in at that dealership, and buy a new vehicle. If they give you average tradein value, you're out from underneath that problem. If they give you less, they are acknowledging that there is a problem with it.....and they should fix it under the extended warranty so they can then accept it at average tradein.

    If it's down that much oil, and it's not dripping on your garage, then it's being burnt up and coming out your tailpipe. It's only going to get worse. Once it starts visibly smoking, you'll have a much tougher time selling it.

    Get rid of it while you can, cut any losses and move on. Lemons happen.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    one easy and cheap thing to try before going legal: find the PCV valve and remove it. shake it back and forth, if you hear nothing, replace it. perhaps you have a stuck PCV valve.
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Posts: 191
    You can buy a new CR-V. It will come with a log book and you won't have to do any 2nd maintenance.
  • gwingeegwingee Posts: 54
    does anyone else have a problem with the starter? I turn the key...dead...turn again..starts...I have been back and forth to dealer 6 times..they can not get it to happen when it is there..I have asked that they keep the car longer than a day or 2..because it does happen. It happened again July 16, then the 18th and now today. Anyone have any ideas how to fix this once and for all????
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    It's a new car, so you are kinda stuck taking it back to the dealer each time to fix.

    One way you could help determine what is wrong, is to run a fused wire from the primary and secondary of the solenoid (relay) into the vehicle, and be ready with your voltmeter. When it doesn't start, you measure the voltage on the primary...which you should have 13volts trying to pick the solenoid. If you don't have 13 volts, then you know the problem is back upstream toward the key switch or computer (don't know the actual circuit for that vehicle).

    If you DO have the 13 volts, then that should energize the solenoid which should then put 13volts on the secondary (which is connected to the starter motor winding). If you have 13 volts and the motor isn't spinning, then you know the starter motor is bad. If you don't have 13 volts, then you know the solenoid is bad.

    As an EE this is something I could do in my vehicle and figure out pretty quickly what is wrong. Unless you have good electrical skills, I wouldn't try it. If you hang some fused wires on, obviously disconnect the battery while you are making the starter connections because that is is 'hot', with a big thick wire directly to the battery. I think you are just going to have to tough it out with the dealership. If they can't see it fail, it's hard to troubleshoot...and their only option may be to throw parts at it.

    Given time, this intermittent problem will probably become worse and then they'll have a better chance of catching it while it is failing. Unfortunately, this also means you are stuck somewhere.

    Could be bad starter, bad solenoid, loose connection of batter-starter cable, loose connector on solenoid primary, bad key switch, and possibly something else which one would have to look at your electrical schematics to see if they have anything else in the circuit (like an engine immobilizer, security system, etc).

    That gives me an idea, you might want to try using the other key.
  • If your exhaust is blue then it is definitely burning oil. Maybe have a compression test on the engine to see if bad rings are the culprit. Other thing the test should show is if your valves are burnt or leaking. Valve jobs are cheaper than scrapping the vehicle if that's all that it needs. Of course there is a slight possibility that the oil filter was not installed correctly. Hence the recall on the later models a few years ago. Good luck with the dealer.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I posted a similar message before.My 2003 CRV is burning 1 and 1/2 quarts of oil in about 800 miles.After an oil change and 800 miles of normal driving the oil is dark grayish black and down 1-1/2 quarts.The vehicle has 48000 miles on it.The Honda dealership where I purchased this vehicle and seven other vehicles say that this is perfectly normal.With the initial purchase I purchased an extended warranty for 7 years or 100,000 miles from the dealership for $1400.This vendor has since went bankrupt but the dealership has stated that they will honor the warranty on a case by case basis.It seems that they recognize a serious expensive problem and choose to ignore it.The national Honda help line has concurred with the dealership in stating that the oil consumption is normal.My son is an attorney and advises that I should get the problem independently diagnosed and repaired pay for the repairs myself and then sue the dealership in small-claims court to recover my expenditures.Any thoughts on the cause of the oil consumption or the suggested approach to recover my outlay.As an additional statement I have not burned one drop of oil in my seven previous Hondas.

    A) Honda's spec is 1 qt. of oil loss per 1000 miles. If you are burning 1.5 qts per 800 miles you are over the spec.

    B) You should only purchase manufacturer backed extended warranties.

    C) There are at least cases where CR-V engine was missning an oil control ring from the factory. One was covered by Honda, since the tear down was done at the dealer. the other was not covered, because the guy tore it down him self.

    Have you had the CR-V since day one, or did you purchase it used? If you had it since new, has it ever burned oil?

    If you bought it used, then try to find the maintenance records.

    What kind of oil (weight, brand...) are you using?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Just trade it in at that dealership, and buy a new vehicle.

    When you trade in vehicles, they don't just disappear, someone buys them. So, then in 3 months another person will come here and ask the same question. What has been solved?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You and I both know, that there is something wrong with that vehicle that it is burning that much oil for a new car. The dealership on the other hand, doesn't think so. Since it's been doing it for a while and during both the warranty and extended warranty period, the right thing to do is for the dealer to tear it apart to see what is wrong, and fix it.

    I agree, trading it in just move the problem somewhere else, but in this case (with the dealership stonewalling the repair), he either is stuck with this vehicle himself....or he trades it back to the dealership where he bought it. Why should he have to live with the problem this long? Life is too short, dump it back on the dealers lap and move on.

    As a trade, the dealership could:
    a.) admit there is a problem and give less than average $$ tradein, in which case I'd be asking them to fix it for me under extended warranty first....so I get the average $$

    b.) verbally stick to their position that there is nothing wrong with it, give average $$ tradein, fix it behind the scenes, put it on their lot to sell.....no harm to anyone.

    c.) really believe that their is nothing wrong with the vehicle, give average $$ tradein, put it on their lot to sell to some unsuspecting buyer......their reputation now on the line with a 2nd consumer.

    Current owner is really caught between a rock and hardplace. The longer he waits to get rid of it, the worse off he is. Unless he is willing to pay to have some independent shop tear it down, document the problem, fix the problem, and then sue the dealership & mfg....he has no reasonable alternative but to dump it.

    If this was your car and you were in this position, you'd do what? Continue to invest/spend/waste more time dancing with the dealer?

    Personally, I'm out of there. I've got many more important issues consuming my cycles than worrying forever about a hunk of metal.
  • Karen, I just test drove the Honda CR-V and I cannot believe the cheesy construction of this vehicle. Did you try to raise & lower the seat? OMG it's like a car jack - jack it up...jack it down - cheap cheap cheap. I expected so much more from Honda and was VERY disappointed. I don't know where Edmunds heads were when they rated this. :P Check out the 2008 Subaru Tribeca. All the bells and whistles at nearly the same price.
  • Of course, trading it in will allow the dealer to re-sell as a "certified used car." Those sometimes carry a 100,000 mile warranty. ;)
  • phisherphisher Posts: 175
    I don't know about you but I am the only driver of my CRV and I never have to adjust the height of the seat after I did it the first time. All of the cars/trucks I owned previous to this didn't even have a height adjustment. I bought my honda for reliability not its interior design.
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    The critic is right, the CR-V isn't plush. But, like you, I find the seats comfortable.

    As to the Tribeca having all the bells and whistles for "nearly the same price," the critic is math challenged. The 5-seat Tribeca starts at $29,995, while the CR-V (4wd) is $21,800. Tribeca's bells and whistles cost 38% more.
  • v07v07 Posts: 2
    My starter had the same problems from about 4k miles. I notified the dealer during two maintenance visits but they could not replicate the problem.
    By 10k it was repeatable so i stopped by the honda dealer and showed them (took 4 turns of key to reproduce the problem). They replaced the starter and it has not had a problem since.
  • gwingeegwingee Posts: 54
    Unfortunately for me, they DID already replace the starter..so that is not it. I am so frustrated by this
  • gwingeegwingee Posts: 54
    Well, it did it AGAIN today...turn the key...dead..turn again..starts
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,370
    Just did this today at the dealer.

    They called about 30 minutes in, and said that I needed new brake pads, front and rear. That isn't surprising, since I'm on the originals.. They quoted $300 +tax for the job. I graciously declined...

    So..checked around a few places..

    $270 +tax @ local tire dealer
    $180 +tax @ CarX (not a real complete quote, though)
    $285 +tax @ my local tire guy

    Stopped by Advance Auto Parts.. Their top of the line pads (Bendix Ceramic) Front and rear.. total = $70 +tax

    What to do, what to do?

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  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,009
    Do it yourself of course. :P

    We even have a handy guide about doing the fronts. Take notes and you can write the guide for the rears, lol.

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  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    immobilizer issue. keyswitch issue. main relay issue. starter... '07... bring it in.
  • gwingeegwingee Posts: 54
    Have you had an issue too? What do I tell the service mgr?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,370
    "Step 3: Gather the necessary tools.
    Next gather all of the tools that you will need. In addition to the aforementioned pads, you'll need a tire iron, a jack, two jack stands, and a socket set."


    Can you show up at my house, next Saturday... with all of this stuff? :)

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