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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • No, the groaning noise coming from the steering is constant throughout turning the steering wheel - not just when it hits the stops, So I dont think its the steering pump.
    Will take it to the garage to get it checked out.
    Cheers KP.
  • Hi,
    A mechanic told me that the front brake pads need to be replaced, but that the rotors are in good condition. His fee would be $188 to replace just the pads. In comparison shopping, I called another mechanic who said that the current composition of pads generates more heat which will warp a rotor that has been re-surfaced rather than replaced, causing pulsating brakes. As such, his policy is never to replace just the pads, but to do a total brake "job" which includes pads, rotor replacement and labor. His quote is $361. He's willing to do just the pads and re-surface the rotors for $243, but says that if I return later complaining about brake pulsation, that I will be charged for new rotors + labor with no credit for work already done. I live in the NY/NJ area. What advice would you have for me. I sure am tempted to di the cheaper route. Thanks.
    Mark
  • I'm somewhat leary of this mechanic's thoughts since from my understanding resurfacing the rotors involves some grinding of the rotors to make sure the surface is smooth and round. It would seem to me that doing that restores the surface closer to its original state when the vehicle was new. Not resurfacing the rotors could lead to pulsation since the rotors might not be in best condition when contacting the new brake pads.

    FYI, I own both a CRV and an Accord. I have them both serviced by my Honda dealer and when the Accord needed pads, they did not resurface or replace the rotors. When I asked why, they noted that based on how I drive, my rotors did not need resurfacing or replacement. I've not had any symptoms of brake pulsation.

    While replacing your rotors is not a bad thing, just doing it when the pads are changed seems to be a way for that mechanic to earn additional income.

    Jack
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    A challenge. 2002 CR-V, purchased new in December '01. Can anyone beat this amount of money on brakes?
    16000km (10000 miles) Machine rear rotors and replace pads - no/charge
    66000km (41000 m) Replace rear pads and rotors. Machine front rotors - $592CAD
    97000km (60000 m) Replaced front & rear pads. Machine f & r rotors - $160CAD
    135000km (84000 m) Front calipers seized, and who knows what else?
    Honda Dealer Estimate - $1700CAD

    My wife and I are retired, in our mid-sixties, and drive carefully. (We already did the MGB and Sunbeam Rapier thingy in our youth).

    Do I own a LEMON?


    Not sure if you were following Honda's recommended maintenance for the rust/snow belt applications.

    The brakes components need to be lubricated with Molykote-77 at least once a year, preferrably before winter season. Honda specifies this for all "rust belt/Snow belt" applications. Since you mention prices in CAD$, I assume you are in Canada, and need to have this maintenance performed regularly. I am in Buffalo and I do it twice a year, September and April. I bought a tub of Molykote-77 from Honda for a couple of dollars, and get brake cleaner from the auto parts store. Use a wire brush to clean everything, and then apply thin coat of Molykote-77 on the sliding pins, edges of the brake pads, and all other moving parts (DO NOT let the grease get on the braking surface of the rotors or brake pads!!!)

    My rear rotors siezed up one time when I neglected to perform this after winter. Honda replaced them under warranty.

    Good luck.
  • plim77plim77 Posts: 46
    Go to the first guy. You don't have to replace the rotor unless it's warped. If you change the brake pads soon enough, your rotor will be fine. Any mechanic who has a policy of changing the rotor everytime brake pads are changed is out to make more money. (He didn't even look at your rotor.) He even tried to scare you about "if you return later."

    Depending on where you go and the type of pads, $200 is about right for an axle set. You might even get a better deal if you try Monro or PepBoys, if they are in your area.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 29,134
    My dealer charges $135 for the front axle, and $165 for the rear axle... parts and labor, pads only..

    Just for a reference point...

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,805
    A lot of brake shops get call backs when they just replace the pads. I don't usually replace or resurface my rotors when I replace my pads - I expect there to be some bedding in noises and pulling and I'm ok with that.

    Brake shops like to go ahead and replace the rotors since it's not much more expensive than turning them and more of the customers are happy and fewer come back to the shop with complaints. Since none of the new surfaces are grooved, bedding in problems seem to be minimized.

    Or so I heard on Click and Click one Saturday morning. :shades:

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  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    I've got a 99 CRV with 140K miles and have had 3 brake jobs, which involved replacing the pads and only turning the rotors. The dealer who did the last job wanted to replace the rotors but said they would still be within specs if they were turned, so I opted not to replace the rotors.
  • This is totally crazy but I bought my standard transmission 1999 CRV new and now have 160,000km (about 96,000miles) on it WITH NO BRAKE JOBS NEEDED TO DATE (and no, I am not braking on metal to metal and the vehicle does not pull to the side when I apply my brakes and I have never lubricated the brake parts and I live where it gets very cold and snowy in Winter). I'm going to check them again because they've got to be pretty slim by now. The vehicle still has the original battery and all of the exhaust system including the muffler. I've adjusted the valves myself, change all fluids regularly and (knock on wood) nothing ever goes wrong with the beast. There are also no spots of rust on the body, but I have noticed some rusting on one of the rear right suspension arms (one of the smaller arms that stabilize the suspension). I have checked on my wife's 99 CRV and noticed the same arm is rusting on her vehicle as well. :)
  • Last spring I bought my 2005LX, 2WD CRV ,used @ 12K mi.
    Ex owner upgraded with OEM Alum wheels+ Kuhmo tires and also gave me the original 4 steel wheels with the original Dunlop GranTrak tires.
    My CRV had the "pull to he right" issue, although the dealer had realigned the front wheels per Honda bulletin ( car still under warranty).

    For this winter, I decided to put on the steel wheels...and spare the alum wheels from heavy salted Michigan roads.
    Went to Bell Tires, put them on, and stored the Alum wheels in the basement.
    SURPRISE! NO MORE PULL TO THE RIGHT . Car runs straight as a bullet, I can't believe I can take my hands off the steering.

    Could anyone explain why??? I wish this would be the feeling with the Alum wheels too!!
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    That's great! I'd love to hear an explanation too. :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • That would be very fortunate for you. Please let us know in a few months how it's doing. I suspect it might be pulling to the right again after just a couple of thousand miles, if not fewer.
    The PTTR (pulls to the right) ceased when I would rotate the tires but eventually would return. Others have found that as a temporary fix.
    I believe the tires develop "memory" from the constant pressure for PTTR, which is known technically as torque steer. When the engine sits sideways in a car (transverse engine) the axles running from the transmission to the wheels are of different lengths. That causes one side to have more torque than the other and thus the movement toward the side with the wheel that is driving with more torque.
    I liken it to walking a small, headstrong dog on a leash.
    When the PTTR is severe you can switch the front tires (which is contrary to the manufacturer's recommended rotation scheme of back tires going straight up to the front and front tires changing sides when they go to the back) and it will pull slightly the other way. For a brief while. Then it gradually starts pulling more and more back to the right side.
    I went through this in depth a while back with my 2005 and won in arbitration through BBB -- a feat more rare than a blue moon, I'm told. The arbitration is stacked against the consumer, otherwise various car manufacturers wouldn't pay BBB to run the program. Through various online boards I was in touch with several other people who won arbitration concerning their CR-Vs.
    Rather than take cash in the buy back, I asked for and got a great deal on a 2007. Honda did a bit of re-design to eliminate torque steer. Love the vehicle. Loved the old one, but the PTTR was a hassle, especially when I was driving a long distance with a fractured wrist/lower arm.
  • check message #210 in Honda CR-V Tires Wheels and Sensors.

    crvme3, "Honda CR-V Tires Wheels and Sensors" #210, 7 Dec 2007 5:42 pm

    Seams that PTTR is an issue with 2007 CRV also, but because of the tires.
    Thanks for your detailed explanation. I am stunt that Honda could not figured out this torque steer issue( if that's the cause of the PTTR) when they've engineered this otherwise very nimble and practical mini-SUV.
    Looks like rotating the tires is the only way of preventing PTTR. I'll get back with the update after more miles driven with the new steel wheels.
    Thanks again,
    Dan
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,021
    This explanation makes sense. I had very similar problems with my Saab Turbo 900s, which had very bad torque steer issues. I also switched tires across, which is contrary to opinion, and this helped the pulling but ate tires pretty badly. I was lucky to get 8000--10000 miles out of front tires. I drove HARD however.

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  • Hi Karen
    Just bought a used 1998 CR-V EX 2.0 litre 173,000k with 2 yr warranty on powertrain. I find it is very noisy in City driving, seems to roar like a lawn mower when depressing the accelerator around 25 mph. Is this typical of a CR-V engine? It is fine at high speeds on the highway and I like its handling. I was under the impression it was the muffler which looked new and shining but could have been cheap. It was not as quiet as a passenger car. Let me know of any experience with the CR-V regards this problem of noisy acceleration. Also can the spare tire be locked with the same wheel lock as I have on the other 4 wheels which is the McGuard type.
    Thank you all in advance.
    Clive L
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    shifty, is it possible for alloy rims to not be manufactured identically? i'm thinking it's possible that someone could have a bad rim, which causes a tire to wear improperly, which encourages pulling to the side and a cycle begins.

    i thought torque steer was essentially a phenomenon which was experienced when accelerating. so for it to contribute significantly to tire wear, wouldn't someone have to be a really agressive driver, and perhaps someone using a tire with a soft tread?
  • capriracercapriracer Somewhere in the USPosts: 797
    OK guys. Here's the way it works:

    Pull is caused by 2 things: Tires or alignment.

    In the case of tires, the property is called "Conicity" - root word "cone". This is a matter of degree rather than kind as you can get a little or a lot and everything in between.

    Swapping the tires left to right is diagnostic - not a fix.

    If the result is the pull changes direction, then the problem is in the tires.

    If the result is the pull disappears, then it is both the tires and the alignment.

    If the result is no change, then the problem is the alignment.

    It is possible to wear conicity into a tire. So if the pull was OK, then gradually got worse, then the alignment is causing a wear pattern that is resulting in a conicity change in the tire.

    Also: An alignment may be "In Spec" and not good enough. I have had several experiences where the alignment tolerance was so wide you could completely changed the way the vehicle behaved - all "In Spec". My experience is that you have to be within the inner half of the tolerance.

    Rims CAN NOT affect pull. I can not conceive of a way that a rim could generate a consistent pull. A vibration? Yup!! but not a steady pull.
  • Varmint
    Just bought a used 1998 CR-V EX 2.0 litre 173,000k with 2 yr warranty on powertrain. I find it is very noisy in City driving, seems to roar like a lawn mower when depressing the accelerator around 25 mph. Is this typical of a CR-V engine? It is fine at high speeds on the highway and I like its handling. I was under the impression it was the muffler which looked new and shining but could have been cheap. It was not as quiet as a passenger car. Let me know of any experience with the CR-V regards this problem of noisy acceleration. Also can the spare tire be locked with the same wheel lock as I have on the other 4 wheels which is the McGuard type.
    Thank you all in advance.
    Clive
    Clive L
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    That's very helpful - thank you!

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • OK guys, here is how it works with a CR-V, which is different from the textbook version of "cars in general." The CR-V has a unique construction design that led to PTTR.
    It is because the front end assembly has oval holes where it bolts onto round bolts sticking out from the frame. With oval on round, there is wiggle room for which there are no specs. You also could call it slop.
    So add that to the transverse engine with one axle shorter than the other. You have torque steer. Some CR-Vs have a lot. Some have litttle. How much or how little determines how much or how little the transverse engine and one long/one short axle shafts cause PTTR.
    It depends on how, by chance, your front end assembly was tightened to the bolts at the frame. Nobody, not even the guy living that monotony on the assembly line, knew how it would come out.
    With my 2005, after a whole lot of other tries, some of them absurd, the Honda dealer in his last try adjusted mine by loosening the front end assembly and shifting it slightly and re-bolting it, gaining, as they said, "some caster."
    The Honda technicians pointed out this was not an adjustment point. They meant there was no measurement for what they were doing, no specs, no calibration. (Blindfolds.) They were just moving it around and trying for something better. Apparently it works sometimes. It didn't for mine.
    This was after the numerous front end alignments were found to be within specs but there still was some problem. That's because the entire front end was in synch because it was bolted so neatly with its oval-on-round configuration. It just happened to be out of synch with the differing torques of the axles. (My real world experience, as was that of the arbitrator and the expert he called in to check it out: From a stop on level ground, no hands on the steering wheel, push the accelerator to the floor and find your vehicle in the next lane to the right within less than two car lengths.)
    BTW, this is why for the 2007 model they re-engineered the whole thing to eliminate torque steer, and from my experience with a 2005 and now a 2007 they were largely successful in doing so.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    That was helpful too - now how do we decide? :)

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    Rims CAN NOT affect pull. I can not conceive of a way that a rim could generate a consistent pull. A vibration? Yup!! but not a steady pull.

    i was thinking non-OEM rims which might have had manufacturing inconsistencies in the lip or the bead to rim interface when comparing inside to outside. :surprise:

    i'm gonna stop thinking from here on out and do more reading and listening. :blush:
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    find it is very noisy in City driving, seems to roar like a lawn mower when depressing the accelerator around 25 mph. Is this typical of a CR-V engine?

    Absolutely.
  • 04 CRV with about 60K. recently, I noticed if I am driving at anything over 35 miles andI pull my foot of the accelerator I get a little whirrring sound that seems be coming from underneath the car. Nothing loud or obnoxious. Car operates perfectly as far as I can tell otherwise, it is just a noise I do not remember hearing before.

    Second, my when my passenger door is open, the overhead light does not go on anymore, nor does the dashboard light register that the door is open. Driver side works fine.

    Any thoughts
  • To Varmint
    I recently bought a hard plastic spare tire cover for my Honda CR-V and it's a Gem of a Gem. It sells for $750 at Honda dealers. Thing is I don't know how to lock this cover so it cannot be stolen if parked all day at a train station parking lot. Any suggestions would be very welcome. My 5 alloy wheels are locked incidentally.
    CL
  • The groaning noise whilst turning at slow speed was due to the Rear Diff. fluid required flushing and changing
    The job took approx.1 hr andcost £85.00. (Dec '07).
    Good as new now !
    KP.
  • I've got a 2005 CRV with 39k mile on it that has had PTTR from day one. Dealer rotated tires every way possible and did three alignments. The PTTR was when under throttle, off the throttle the vehicle would track straight. Just replaced the oem bridgestone duelers with yokahama avid trz and now the vehicle drives straight on and off the throttle, NO MORE PTTR!. I don't know how the bridgestones could cause that but anyway this is my PTTR story for everyone to read.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    It would be, if people knew what PTTR was. Only guessing (Pull to the right?)
  • I wish you luck. But I don't think you'll have it. (Yes, PTTR means Pulls To The Right.) My brief and happy moment for believing thinking my PTTR of many, many month was cured came when we drove our '05 very carefully, and very slowly up a fairly easy mountain trail that had some rocks and bumps and creeks to go over. Gently. The PTTR was noticeably gone once we got back on real roads at high speeds.
    Alas. It turned out that one of the front tires was low on air, and that counter-balanced the PTTR. Got the tire back to 30 psi and, voila, PTTR with a vengeance.
    New tires will end it, too. Switching the front tires from one side to the other will end it.
    But like Jason of the horror movies, or Freddie Kruger, PTTR will be back.
  • Well I'll just have to drive it and see what happens.
    BTW, front tires were crossed when crv had 150 mi. on it, had no effect.
    Rear tires were moved to the front and crossed, no effect, still had PTTR.
    Lowering tire pressure on front driver side had minimal effect.
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