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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 28,456

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,793
    "I've tried it and I can't print out a copy. The copy available only has the table of contents. It would cost about $35 for the manual (book) -- is that reasonable? Do you know where else I can look? Thanks!"

    I just downloaded it and I can read the entire manual. I didn't try printing it (I have no need of a 2003 CR-V manual hard copy!
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,441
    I've had trouble downloading Honda manuals too. I use a non-Adobe product to read pdf files and figured it was related to that.

    Moderator
    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,110
    Try this one: Foxit Reader

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,441
    That's the one I use. :blush:

    I'll have to check for an update.

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    Need help navigating? stever@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,793
    I use foxit as well, and had no problems reading the PDF.
  • seahorsea1seahorsea1 Posts: 1
    Hi everyone,
    A few weeks ago, my windshield washer hose was eaten by something, I can't join the hose, whatever decided to eat it, chewed to where it went into the body work. Can anyone tell me how it can replace.
    Any help would be really appreciated.
  • vicman1vicman1 Posts: 1
    I have had this car since new, but it has never had anyting major done to it other then sensor relay changed, which was about a year ago. About 2 weeks ago the it started to make a tatatatatata sound from the left side of the passanger side, and I almost thought it was a bad speaker/tweeter, but it was not. And it was not to long ago that the engine light came on as well--now it is at an auto-shop and they are telling me that perhaps the computer had a short and went bad. They are guessing because I had the engine steam cleaned, though this phenomenon did not occur till weeks later. They are trying to estimate through diagostics what it might be. Is there anyone out there with the same problem.
    sign Vicman1
  • dmathew347dmathew347 Posts: 79
    I have a 2007 CRV and am trying to change the Air Filter (near the intake) and the In-Cabin Pollen Filter. Can someone point me on how to do this. I can't find instructions in the Owners Manual. On my Corolla, they're both very easy and cheap to do. However the Honda dealer wants $180 to do both.
    Is this reasonable?
  • mcdermottmcdermott Posts: 29
    A pair of CR-V cabin filters are usually available at eBay for circa $15.00 and if you search for "CR-V Cabin Filter" at www.youtube.com, you will find a number of do-it-yourself videos on how to install the filters. It takes less than ten minutes to remove/install the cabin filters. The engine air filter is also quite simple to do. Give it a try.
    Cheers,
    Jack
  • bobintampabobintampa Posts: 10
    Please do not pay the dealer this amount of money for a fairly simple maintenance task. As mentioned before, the youtube DIY videos are very good for something like this. Try http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8e3oomo4ow

    Have fun :shades: - bobintampafl
  • jcanaverajcanavera Posts: 11
    Air filter replacements by dealers are a rip. I just got a flyer from the local dealer to change my 2002 CRV's cabin filter for $99. I bought the filter from the Majestic Honda web site. One of the best prices on the Internet. Getting to the filter on my 2002 requires releasing some catches to the glove box so that it moves out of the way. Remove a clip, slide out the old filter and install the new. Very easy takes hardly any labor to do.

    Do it yourself and save big time money.

    Jack
  • terryp1terryp1 Posts: 54
    I have the '07 EX-L
    I do my own maintenance and change the oil (now synthetic) every 5,000 miles, way ahead of Honda's recommendation. I didn't bother to pull out the owner's manual to reset the gauge at the 10,000 mile oil change and now the gauge is in negative miles (-528) as far the car's understanding of the service interval.
    I tried resetting it according to the manual, pages 260-1, but it doesn't work. I suspect the problem is the negative miles.
    When I get to step #5 for resetting, it messes up.
    I can get "Oil Life" to blink and thus "cancel" and the temperature reading not blinking, but when I get "Oil Life" blinking and press to reset it instead reverts to where I started: minus-528 miles.
    Anyone got the answer?
  • dave_cldave_cl Posts: 54
    Have you considered disconnecting the battery?
  • matthewmatthew Posts: 11
    We have this CRV for about 3 weeks and noticed that the rear door (hatch) creaks when going over bumps or when making certain turns. Has anyone else experienced this? What is the fix for this?
  • slehmanslehman Posts: 1
    Hoping someone can help us figure out if the dealer is ripping us off. About three weeks ago the check engine light came on and the code was P0420. We were still under the Federal Warranty for the Catalytic Converter (thank God our trusted auto mechanic told us that) but we had to take the vehicle to a Honda Dealer to get that done. After still charging us for the diagnostic (even though the first mechanic already did it) they replaced the catalytic converter. Now, three weeks later, the check engine light is back on again and the code is P1166, which is for the Primary HO2S (No. 1) Heater System Electrical. Of course the dealer wants to charge us again for the diagnostic and for the replacement of the sensor - a $400+ job. What I'm trying to determine before I let these clowns rip me off is if that sensor is related to the replaced catalytic converter - should they have replaced that at the same time, could they have ruined it when they did the first job., etc. Dealer is saying "no way" but it seems a bit hard to buy. Would love any advice I can get!
  • gregwgregw Posts: 4
    My 2002 CRV is making a loud whining noise from the right front wheel. The noise stops when I break or turn sharply in either direction. I have found that if I back up quickly and hit the brakes the sound will go away for a few days, but then returns.

    I replaced the front pads thinking it may be that, but no luck. Is this possibly the wheel bearing and if so is it a pain to replace it?
  • richk6richk6 Posts: 87
    I had a mid pitched whining noise from the rear brakes after they heated up on my 02 V. Also stopped when braking or turning.

    The noise was caused by corrosion on the brake calipers. Cleaning and lubing the calipers solved the problem.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    They're separate, but related in the sense that they both deal with the exhaust gas. The sensor is monitoring the gas, the converter cleaning it up. The sensor is sending a signal to the engine computer, which adjusts the intake gas mixture.

    In addition to the oxygen sensing piece of the sensor, there is a warming heater that is used when the engine is cold and first started. This gets the sensor up to it's operating temperature faster than waiting for the engine to warm up and the exhaust gases to keep it hot. It has a couple parameters that the engine computer is also monitoring to make sure the O2sensor heats itself up in the correct timeframe.

    The sensor is not a cheap part, so one would not normally replace it just because you also replaced the downstream converter.
  • gregwgregw Posts: 4
    Thanks. So given that fix would it be that the caliper is not fully releasing? When I changed the front pads the calipers pushed backing pretty easy.
  • richk6richk6 Posts: 87
    I had the calipers serviced by my dealer. There was a TSB about the noise that said it was caused by corrosion between the caliper bracket and the pad retainers.

    The TSB # is 04-006.
    http://www.in.honda.com/Rjanisis/pubs/SB/A04-006.PDF

    There is a lot of winter road salt in my area which causes brake corrosion. After that time I had my 02V and now have my 07V brakes cleaned and lubed after each winter season.
  • aljanneyaljanney Posts: 1
    Anyone have a good set of do-it-yourself directions on removing the passenger door panel on a 2001 CRV and putting the window back on track?
  • soupfreaksoupfreak Posts: 1
    You're lucky. A couple of years ago I had to have the Catalytic Converter replaced at a cost of $1600 dollars (Just 7000 miles past the Federal Warranty)

    This weekend it failed smog. Sure enough there's that PO420 code! I have been doing some searching on the 2002 Honda CR-V and Catalytic Converters, and it looks like others are having the same issue.
  • dave_cldave_cl Posts: 54
    "I have been doing some searching on the 2002 Honda CR-V and Catalytic Converters, and it looks like others are having the same issue."

    Link?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Anyone have a good set of do-it-yourself directions on removing the passenger door panel on a 2001 CRV and putting the window back on track?

    You will most likely need to replace the regulator, or parts of it.

    You will most likely need the Helms manual to do that.

    You can buy one from www.helminc.com or download a bootleg copy here.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    My father purchased a 2007 4WD/Navi Honda CR-V in 5/2007 and it has just hit 30k miles. He's wondering about getting a 30k service done on it. I went and looked at the manual online, but was really having a hard time figuring out what needed to get done.

    Last summer, with my 2004 Accord, Between the manual and the info on ownerslink, it was much easier for me to figure out what needed to get done for my 90k service (and I needed to know this because I wanted to go Firestone to get this done instead of the dealer who was charging quite a bit for the service).

    Here is the 2004 Accord scheduled maintenance info for comparison:

    90,000 mi/144,000 km Scheduled Maintenance
    Rotate tires
    Replace air cleaner element
    90,000 mi/144,000 km/6 yrs Scheduled Maintenance
    Inspect drive belt
    Replace dust and pollen filter
    90,000 mi/144,000 km/9 yrs Scheduled Maintenance
    Replace engine oil

    So I took a printout to Firestone actually and got everything done (although I should have looked at the manual maybe more closely - I also got a transmission fluid flush done at this 90k service and should have done it actually at 120k.)

    But looking at the CRV scheduled maintenance info, it's trickier and refers me to the service manual:
    http://techinfo.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/OM/9B0707/9B0707MAINIXA.pdf

    So far, since my dad's owned the vehicle, I believe he's done everything at the dealer. The first oil change/tire rotation was free and done at 8,748 miles. at 18,083 he did an oil change again and topped off fluids and set tire pressure (they also removed a nail for $10). And again at 28,676 miles (very recently on 5/17/08) was an oil and filter change, with the fluids topped of and tire pressure set.

    Does anyone have suggestions on what to do and what to look for? I would prefer to do this service at Firestone instead of the dealer, although I haven't gotten the dealer's quote for the service yet. With Firestone I'm a Complete Rewards Gold member so (under the assumption I can use my card w/ my dad's card)I get a free tire rotation, brake inspection, and alignment check also. That could take care of some of the things I need to get checked out.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    Looks easy enough. Why isn't it so simple in Honda's manual? I'll print the 10k, 20k, and 30k printouts and take it over to Firestone and get the stuff done that hasn't been done yet.
  • mholmes3mholmes3 Posts: 2
    Once you get the "Oil Life" blinking, hold down the reset button until it resets.
  • terryp1terryp1 Posts: 54
    Yo, mhomles3, you obviously didn't read my query.

    My post noted that I held the reset button when "oil life" was blinking.

    So you're just part of the loop for me.
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