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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    the mechanic told me it was the timing belt... then someone told me that i have an interference engine and that it probably messed up my engine... any thoughts?

    If the timing belt has never been changed, then it is very possible that it broke. The 2000 model had 7 year, 100,000 mile timing belts, I believe.

    Timing belts are maintenance items and need to be replaced on regular basis based on the mileage or time.

    Good luck.
  • nolajnolaj Posts: 4
    thanks, well he took off the belt and it was not broken but most of the teeth on it were... i will let you know how it goes... if it ever stops snowing i can get it finished... thanks for the advice... it is greatly appreciated....
  • Hello:
    Recently I replaced the batteries in two remote-key fobs for my 2005 Honda CR-V. Perhaps these screws were installed using "Lock-Tite" or another type of adhesive, but they proved very difficult to remove. Eventually resorting to classic "strong arm" methods, I nearly stripped the heads of both screws.
    I've searched for replacement screws locally to no avail. These screws are so tiny I cannot even determine their specificiations. I do not really want to spring for new key fobs, but would like to find a source for the replacement screws.
    Any help out there?
    Your time and consideration are appreciated.
    Regards,
    Jack

    N4YIC@comcast.net
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Home Depot sells "Nut & Bolt Locker" cost is about a few bucks which prevent threaded screws from loosening
    made by Super Glue

    If the screw head has problem put a tiny drop of superglue to connect the screw driver then snap it off after screwed in.

    As for the new replacement screw, may be lucky to get from those locksmiths that makes car keys.
  • I have a '96 CRV ( import) auto and i let it freeze up now the water flows out as quickly as i can put it in from the region of the bottom pulley but i can't exactly determine where.
    So how can i get the pulley nut undone to check the damage?
    The engine rotates anti clockwise and i have tried to pull the nut off clockwise but i need to jam the crank so that i can get some leverage on it.
    I do not have any specialist tools so do i need to go to a garage.
    Any tips or advice most welcome
    Regards, Salsaboy
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    I'm at over 120k on my 2004 Honda Accord EX-L w/ Navi (Auto, Sedan, 4-cyclinder) and wanted to fix the error I made by having my Transmission service done at 90k at Firestone. However, the Honda dealers I'm calling are just saying they do a simple drain and fill. A few dealers have said they do the 3 successive fluid exchanges but that I probably don't need it in my car.

    Any thoughts?

    (I know this is off topic here in the CR-V forum, but this is where I first heard about it)
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Honda advises not to do tranny flush. Only drain n fill is recommended. Of course 3 is better than one. I will take the 3 one.

    Remember to use ONLY Honda brand tranny fluid.

    Remove bolt and about 3 quarts of transmission fluid will be drained. The drain bolt is magnetic and will have to be cleaned of metal particles when removed. After fully drained, replace plug, and add 2.7 quarts of Honda transmission fluid. Honda claims you must use Honda fluid in order to prevent damage, and for transmission to shift properly.

    Just a side note: This change only replaces about half the fluid.
    --Yes, from what i am told you do a flush type fill ....that is to say that after draining and refilling you run the vehicle and then repeat: drain and refill. You do this two to four times depending on the need and filth of the fluid.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,990
    "If the screw head has problem put a tiny drop of superglue to connect the screw driver then snap it off after screwed in."

    Now that's a great tip. I bet I could send that in to one of the woodworking magazines and score some swag. :shades:

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • hi everyone
    today i lost my horn..it died. Then i was attempting to start the crv it went ok but i could not shift in any gear at all
    help
  • I have a 2007 CRV. The shop guy says i have to replace both (cabin air + pollen) that are situated side by side. But when i popped open the glove box, there is only one filter behind it. Is it sufficient to just replace that or is there another cabin filter hiding somewhere that i should know about?

    Also, what's a good online site to get cabin filter from?

    Thanks
  • illcarillcar Posts: 5
    Hi,

    I usually use orange colored windshield fluid that is supposed to not freeze till -40F or something. But last week when the windchill was about -10F, my windshield fluid froze. It's 2008 CR-V. Anyone with same experience?
  • There is only one filter. You might have to question the honesty of your shop guy,

    I use three places

    Bernard Parts, Handa Accessories & Honda Auto Parts, Use the one with the Cheepest Price
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,109
    But last week when the windchill was about -10F, my windshield fluid froze.

    I assume you meant that it froze after spraying it onto your windshield. Typically, the "washer fluid" is a mixture of water and some form of alcohol which tends to lower the freezing point. It will remain liquid for temperatures well below the freezing point of water - as long as it's in a closed container.

    Wind will cause the very thin layer of the fluid on your windshield to evaporate quite quickly, particularly the alcohol component. This causes the remaining fluid, now mostly water, to get much colder. Unless your windshield has been warmed up (from the inside), you're left with supercooled water and it instantly leaves a thin film of ice on your windshield.

    "Preheating" your windshield may help.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • 2006 crv makes a thumping noise underneath on rough roads.Anyone else?? I think trans mounting

    Crv on bad washboard makes terrible sound underneath towards back of car. Has dealership confused. I thought muffler hangers, now wondering if it is not the trans mounting rubbers wore out. New shocks have been put on.
  • I own 2 '99 CRVs (one with a manual tranny, one with an automatic). Both of them acted like the ignition key was suddenly turned off as I was travelling down the road.at around the same mileage (160,000 km or around 100,000Miles). Both of them had the same simple problem I was able to diagnose at the side of the road. I played with the spark plug wires and was able to get the vehicle running. By further playing with the wires as the vehicle idled, it would affect the idle speed of the engine. Replacing the spark plug wires was the fix for each vehicle. This is a very simple fix that can be done at home. If any of you are using the original spark plug wires and your vehicles are getting up to the mileages listed above, change your wires as a maintanance item before they may leave you stranded.

    To mcdermott, You can get the tiny replacement screws for your remote car opener key fob at any eyeglass shop
  • Defielding:
    Many thanks, I'll give it a try at the eyeglass shop.
    Regards,
    Jack
  • My 2000 CRV has a shudder / vibration that starts while driving steady at about 45 mph. If I let off the gas it stops or accelerate it stops. It only does it at around that speed. I've changed tires , both axles, ball joints, brake pads , rotors even a broken motor mount. Three ASE mechanics have looked at it and they say my front end is tight and it should NOT shudder like it does. It has done this for several years (note all the changed parts for no reason) and nothing seems to fix it. :mad:
  • I have a 2004 CR-V with 45,000 miles. Six months ago I was told I needed to replace the serpentine belt. I did. Now during inspection I'm told I need to replace drive belt. Is that different than serpentine belt? Does it sound reasonable to need to change drive belt after 45,000 miles?
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    I have an 04 myself. There is only 1 belt on the vehicle, it's technically called the serpentine belt that drives the power steering, AC compressor, etc. I proactively replaced mine in November at 100K miles. I would not say 4 yrs is old for this belt and given that you only have 45K miles I would think you could plan to replace it within a year, no huge rush. Dealer charges $150 and takes about an hour. I don't think a local mechanic can do it for much less, maybe you could save $30 but hardly worth it. There is NO timing belt to be changed on an 04, it's a timing chain which does not need replacement.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I have a 2004 CR-V with 45,000 miles. Six months ago I was told I needed to replace the serpentine belt. I did. Now during inspection I'm told I need to replace drive belt. Is that different than serpentine belt? Does it sound reasonable to need to change drive belt after 45,000 miles?

    If it is the same shop that replaced it last time, RUN FROM THEM LIKE THEY WERE ON FIRE. They are scam artists. Either they did not replace it last time you paid them to do that, or they just lieing about the belt now.

    Search youtube for hidden videos at Firestone shops, where they don't even touch the parts you pay them to replace.
  • Hi
    I have a beautiful 1999 Honda CRV. I have had no issues but two. My clock no longer works and my automatic door locks don't work on my key fob. Now the weird thing is it is just when its warm. Freezing cold, middle of winter, no problems, I can lock and unlock using the remote. Today however weather is in the mid 60's and nada, nothing...

    Is this an issue with the fuse or am I going to have to take it to my repair person!
    Thanks a bunch
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I own 2 '99 CRVs (one with a manual tranny, one with an automatic). Both of them acted like the ignition key was suddenly turned off as I was travelling down the road.at around the same mileage (160,000 km or around 100,000Miles).

    Have the Ignition switch recall been performed?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I have a '96 CRV ( import) auto and i let it freeze up now the water flows out as quickly as i can put it in from the region of the bottom pulley but i can't exactly determine where.
    So how can i get the pulley nut undone to check the damage?
    The engine rotates anti clockwise and i have tried to pull the nut off clockwise but i need to jam the crank so that i can get some leverage on it.
    I do not have any specialist tools so do i need to go to a garage.
    Any tips or advice most welcome
    Regards, Salsaboy


    What did you have for coolant? It takes a lot of really cold weather to freeze 50% antifreeze (Honda branded).

    Ifoyu jus thad water in there, then you most likely broke the water pump. It is driven by the timing belt, and this is why you see drippage under the crank pulley.

    While you are at it, replacing the water pump, replace the timing belt as well. On the 96 model it was only good for 60,000 miles.
  • Hi,

    I have a Honda CRV 2002. I was driving at 35 mph and probably a ice block hit the bottom of the car.I see under the Honda CRV when looking from passenger side front door a cylindrical part ( 1 foot in length) which has a square hole and looks rusted. What is this part ?

    Thanks

    kanas
  • mjb56mjb56 Posts: 170
    Have any of you done a fluid change on your CR-V's rear differential? If so, how difficult is it? Any particular tricks other than changing the washer on each drain hole?
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    Done this twice on my 04 with 110K miles. Not hard at all. Takes a little more that 1 Qt of the dual pump fluid from dealer so get 2 plus 2 of the crush washers. Don't substitute any other type of fluid - there is no better replacement. Honda changed to a dual pump fluid II which is better than before and lasts longer. You also need an item from an auto parts store also, it is a pump top that screws onto a oil quart size bottle (that's what the dual pump fluid comes in). Turns the quart into what's like a big bottle of hand lotion. There is a short tube with it as well. Costs like $5. You need it because you can't tip the bottle enough to fill the differential.

    A standard 1/4" racket drive fits into the square hole of the fill and drain plugs. It will be tight. Loosen the top (fill) plug first. Hate to drain the fluid then find out that you can't get the fill plug open.

    Drain the fluid, then hold the hose of the pump thing in the hole and start pumping. Refill till the fluid starts to overflow a bit - you'll know when it's topped off. That's it.
  • mjb56mjb56 Posts: 170
    Wow! that does sound easy. Thanks much for saving me $60. Is this new fluid supposed to last longer than the recommended 30K?
  • I have a friend with a CRV (not sure what year at the moment) with both low beam headlights out. High beams Ok. There are two fuses and two relays in the engine compartment fuse panel, all good. (They are Left/Right not High/Low fuses and relays)

    I pulled out my multi-tester and found voltage on both hot wires at the connector, so I'm stumped. Did you find any info, here or elsewhere?

    I guess I forgot to mention that when I found voltage where it should be, I replaced both bulbs with no effect.
  • After much searching I have found only one other post indicating the same problem and it had no replies, So.... I have a friend with a 2004? CRV. She has no low beams, high beams work fine. Expecting it to be a simple diagnosis, I checked all fuses and found two (left/right) in the Engine compartment, both good, also two relays right next to the fuses, also good. Pulled out my multi-tester and measured voltage on both power leads. Decided it must be the bulbs since I have voltage at the connector, so I replaced them, and the Low Beams are still out. :shades:

    Anyone have a similar problem, and hopefully a solution?

    Of course I did not realize this new post would end up right next to my reply to the other post, but oh, well.
  • I had something similar. It turned out to be a broken stabilizer link. Part costs around $40 and a half-hour of labor to install.
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