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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • This may sound silly but are the bulbs of the correct replacement type? It's possible that the filament of the low beam is going to the hot side of the high beam, rather than to the ground when the connection is made. Maybe check to make sure the contacts are tight? Just fishing here... :confuse:
  • See my post a while back. Same thing happened to me on my 04. One night the low beams went out - same night!!! High beams fine. I found out there were two fuses, one for each so I figured it was not the fuses. Changed both bulbs and they have worked fine for weeks.

    Perhaps you put in the wrong bulbs or some how broke them as you were putting them in. You cannot touch the bulbs with your hands - use latex gloves and change them often (gets very dirty) and the frst time doing it can be tricky.

    Also check the connection to the bulb and make sure it is actually fully in. Finally make sure hte bulb is seated correctly. Not a big deal but can be tough the first time.
  • I am a weekend mechanic (more skilled than most) who has been asked to look at a friends CRV, not a CRV owner, so I am not familiar with all of the freeze plug locations on the CRV. That said, if your coolant froze, and you are leaking now, you have one of two problems. Either you simply have a freeze plug to replace, which is easy enough except for their locations being hard to reach in the car, or you have a cracked block. Based on where you say the water is coming out, I'm sorry to say that I think a cracked block is more likely. If so, you probably have an oil pan full of water.

    As far as getting the Crank Pulley Nut off, an impact gun will usually do the trick if you can get it in the space, and in a pinch, I have even seen people (and done personally) use the starter to provide the torque. You need a place where the wrench/ratchet is obstructed (in the right direction). You place the tool on the nut/bolt and rotate it until it meets the obstruction, then give the starter a tap. Obviously you want to make sure to disconnect the ignition so it does not actually start.
  • The lights are the correct type, for sure. I happened to be at a parts store Friday and looked at the wiring diagram. (BTW, it's a 2002, not '04)

    Oddly enough, based on the diagram, I should not have had positive voltage on either wire because honda seems to have wired them the opposite of most I've seen before. The "Hot" wire is the middle wire of the connector, and the left/right wires of the connector go to ground through the switch on the column. Of course, that confuses things even more, and I'm not 100% sure that the book is correct. I'll have to get over and take another look at it with this new information, and see if I can make sense out of it.
  • My wife's cr-v is a 2001 front wheel drive ex model. We decided it was time for some maintenance/tune up on the car. Keep in mind I've worked in the repair field years ago and have done a couple frame up restorations on older cars. So replacing plugs, no problem right? Sooo i change the plugs with double platinum plugs. Two days later my wife calls and says the car is stuttering while the brakes are depressed. I change the wires cap and rotor. no improvement. Actually the symptoms get worse. Now the car is vibrating while in park and foot off the brake. I plug in the scanner and of course all I can get is a generic code. Misfire on the #4, #3,and random misfire codes. I then go for the fuel filter (110,000miles). Nothing. I performed vacuum test with a compound meter. The test came back negative for weak vacuum,sticking valves,intake leaks,blown head gasket/low compression. With 17 lbs of pressure all is good . I tested the timing and timing is dead nuts. Checked the fuel injectors for resistance and averaged 14.5 ohms per injector. Tested the injector harness es with a noid light all are receiving a signal. I opted to replace the fuel regulator with no success. So back to the Ignition system I go. Tested the coil and the resistance was off. So I replaced it and, nada. tested the ICM and that seems fine. All though the no codes came up for the charging system I tested the battery and replaced it. When I rev the engine up to 4000rpm and hold it there the check engine light goes out.
    So any suggestions would help here. I just can't understand how adding four new plugs has sent me into this nightmare. Oh yeah I also went back and changed the plugs to the oem style plugs. Thanks ms2112
  • Wasn't there a previous post where the guy had the same problem with both his wife's and his CR-V? I think they were 2000 models. He changed the spark plug wires on both and the problem was solved.
  • I am trying to remove the passenger side headlight assembly...there are 2 obvious screws on top but there is something else holding it in....do I have to remove some plastic cover shrouds to get to whatever it is.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    2005 CRV EX headlamp assembly ...

    image
  • I just bought a 2005 CR-V, SE 4WD. It is very noisy. Is there any way to decrease this road noise? Also there is a whistle/whine noise when I step on the gas. It makes this noise without the ac on and starts get nosier at 35 mph. Does anyone know about this whine? It has been discussed on this site before but it does fit the previously mentioned below 50F problem or the ac on problem. This whine just adds to the the other noises. I am sorry I bought this SUV. My Dodge van is quieter and takes bumps much better. If anyone has any advice it would be most appreicated.
  • I am having the same problem... Between 35-45 mph, I have the same vibration / shudder...Does anyone know what it could be ? It is not the tires...
  • phisherphisher Posts: 175
    To reduce the road noise get new tires. I have goodyear assurance triple treads and they got rid of about 70% of the noise and handle alot better than the bidgestone dullers that came on the CRV.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    You can tell whether due to the tires by rotate the 2 rear tires to the front to see any difference.
  • mjb56mjb56 Posts: 170
    We've got the assurance triple treads on our 05 Vibe. Noisiest tires I've ever had on a car. We bought the Kumho Solus KR21 for our CR-V. They're extremely quiet, great in snow and ice and cost effective. Check 'em out.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    My wife's cr-v is a 2001 front wheel drive ex model. We decided it was time for some maintenance/tune up on the car. Keep in mind I've worked in the repair field years ago and have done a couple frame up restorations on older cars. So replacing plugs, no problem right? Sooo i change the plugs with double platinum plugs. Two days later my wife calls and says the car is stuttering while the brakes are depressed. I change the wires cap and rotor. no improvement. Actually the symptoms get worse. Now the car is vibrating while in park and foot off the brake. I plug in the scanner and of course all I can get is a generic code. Misfire on the #4, #3,and random misfire codes. I then go for the fuel filter (110,000miles). Nothing. I performed vacuum test with a compound meter. The test came back negative for weak vacuum,sticking valves,intake leaks,blown head gasket/low compression. With 17 lbs of pressure all is good . I tested the timing and timing is dead nuts. Checked the fuel injectors for resistance and averaged 14.5 ohms per injector. Tested the injector harness es with a noid light all are receiving a signal. I opted to replace the fuel regulator with no success. So back to the Ignition system I go. Tested the coil and the resistance was off. So I replaced it and, nada. tested the ICM and that seems fine. All though the no codes came up for the charging system I tested the battery and replaced it. When I rev the engine up to 4000rpm and hold it there the check engine light goes out.
    So any suggestions would help here. I just can't understand how adding four new plugs has sent me into this nightmare. Oh yeah I also went back and changed the plugs to the oem style plugs. Thanks ms2112


    A) If you are in the US or Canada, there were no FWD CR-V EX offered for sale in 2001. Only LX came in FWD with auto only model.

    B) Use NGK or Denso plugs only.

    C) Valve lash needs to be adjusted every 30,000 miles, on the loose side.

    D) Replace tranny, and rear differential fluids with Honda ATF and Honda Dual pump fluids only, preferrably within 30,000 mile intervals.

    E) Timing belt on that vehicle needs to be replaced at 105,000, I believe. While at it, replace the water pump as well.

    F) Use Honda Type 2 coolant.

    I think, this is it.
  • Hello,
    At about 60mph (even sooner lately) my CRV starts to vibrate .The problem is it comes and goes. It seems to be getting worse. But here is the problem: eventually it goes away! If I put on the brakes while its happening ,I can feel the rotors pulsating,but when the CRV is not vibrating, and I put the brakes on,there is no pulsing.I had the differencial fluid changed about 4 months ago for the documented steering noise.
    One interesting thing is that I had the tires balanced 3 weeks ago and then went for a 100 mile drive and there was no problem. But within a couple days it was back.
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks
    Mike
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Sound slike you have 2 issues.

    1) your brake rotors are warped. you can have them machined, but the warpage will come back.

    The most common cause warped disk rotors on Hondas is the use of air tools to tighten the wheel bolts. It cases uneven distribution of torque and makes the rotors warp really fast. If you have a shop doing your wheels, ask them to use torque wrenches when installing wheels. Torque sticks are not precise enough. Torque should be set to 80 ft. lbs and applied in criss cross pattern.

    2) Some of the balancing weights may have come off, or the wheel got bent on one of the trips.
  • vikkigvikkig Posts: 3
    I just had 4 new tires put on and balanced. This weekend I changed the rear differential fluid. Still having the vibration problem. It's not as bad, but it's still there.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Did you have the motor mount condition check out yet?
  • mike628mike628 Posts: 3
    No,
    This problem comes and go's. It happens almost everytime I drive, but except for the speed, I cant tell when its going to happen.
    Are there any Honda Techs listening....
    From what I've been reading this is pretty common with this vehicle, but nobody seems to have a documented cause.
    Thanks
    Mike
  • vikkigvikkig Posts: 3
    Well, the process of elimination failed, I pulled out of work yesterday and lost my drive shaft. Its at the shop. Guess I'm gonna end up paying out the rear to get it fixed anyway.... Thank you for the help and advice =)
  • tabcourttabcourt Posts: 18
    Has 150K on her and I have never changed the timing belt, water pump or any of the belts for that matter. My friends tell me I'm on borrowed time. Of course, the car's running fine and it's just hard during these economic times to just pre-emptively plunk down upwards of $700 to have the belts and pump changed. Opinions from you good folks out there?
    -Mark
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    I think there is no warning when the timing belt breaks, or water pump fails. Imgaine what needs to be replaced or repaired after above problems. It maybe 5 times $700 ... I won't waiting till not a drop of gas before I look for gas station or change the oil when the motor oil looks like tar.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,945
    UH....your engine has a timing chain, so you're good to go.

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  • tabcourttabcourt Posts: 18
    Pretty sure that the owner's manual says it's a belt not achain
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,902
    Gates says that only the '97 to '01 CR-V's have a belt. Gates could be wrong I suppose (they're wrong about my non-interference engine).

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    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,945
    That's my story and I'm stickin' to it. :P

    So it's either shame on me or shame on your mechanic ;)

    SOURCES: Edmunds Maintenance Schedules

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  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 31,079
    All 2.4 litre CR-V engines since '02 have chains, not belts..

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  • tabcourttabcourt Posts: 18
    Thanks all. The manual is incorrect.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,902
    You can download a manual from Honda and I assume it will have updated info.

    Where To Find Your Car Owner's Manual Online

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    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Thanks all. The manual is incorrect.

    Is this the official Honda Owner's Manual?

    Or the Chilton's or Hayes shop manuals? Those are wrong about many things.

    Helms manual is the only official Honda Shop manual.
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