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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,881
    Yeah, I guess you're right. I keep forgetting that lots of people don't come to Edmunds and don't know to shop around. When I told my sister to buy some tires from TireRack off the internet last year she had no idea that was even an option.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • My wife got a small ding in the rear bumper of her EXL. It consists of a round depression (maybe the diameter of a pencil eraser and about 1/8" deep) and a 2" shallow scratch below that. This is in the glossy black plastic molding just below the rear hatch. Naturally, the dealer wants to replace the whole bumper cover at a cost of about $350., which I find crazy. Does anyone have any experience in D.I.Y. bumper repair? I know that working with plastic is not something that most amateurs should attempt, but my goal is to just make the damage less noticeable, not like new. Can I sand it lightly without taking off the semi-gloss finish? Are there any paints or filler material that would fill in the depression and scratch and not rub off the first time I wash the car?
  • You can use rubbing and polishing compound to take the scratch out of the clear coat. But if it's scratched to the palstic, you'll need to use some touch-up paint first, then lightly wet sand with a 1000 grit or finer. Then use rubbing ocmpound and polish.

    Honestly, I'd let it go. it won't rust, and you're sure to get more in the future. Definitely not worht replacing hte rear bumper for. "Murphy's Law" says that as soon as you repalce hte bumper, you will get into an accident or another ding shortly thereafter.
  • I haven't tried any of their products but you checkout this site:

    Dr ColorChip
  • Most cities have plastic repair shops. They often repair fairings on race bikes and boats. You may want to check to see if there is one where you live.
  • Does anyone know if this is available for the 2009 LX? According to the 2009 CRV brochure, it's included with the EX models. I cannot locate the duel cargo shelf anywhere. The Honda accessory website doesn't list it... It sounds like a handy accessory to have. But maybe it just doesn't fit in the LX (?) (I know about the cargo retractable cover; it's the shelf I'd like to have.) Thanks!
  • 51985198 Posts: 11
    Hello All - My CRV is in desparate need of new shoes! I can head to the local Discount Tire or Costco.....not sure how to recognize a good tire or good price...I mainly drive around town with the occaisional freeway trip. appreciate the advice!
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    www.tirerack.com has good tire info ... you don't need to buy from them but you can learn a lot from their site. The ratings of dry, wet, winter, quietness, comfort are very helpful ... the the review ... i find this rating useful: "will you buy this product AGAIN"
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    Check e-bay. The one I saw was (ridiculously) expensive and note the modifications required for first time install. I have an EX model with the cargo shelf. It is turned upside down (hard vinyl up) and lies on the floor. It looks more practical than it is, imo.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2007-2009-HONDA-CRV-REAR-CARGO-SHELF(STANDARD-ON-EX-MOD_W0QQitemZ400027354053QQcmdZViewItem
  • Thanks very much for your reply...Could you kindly share your opinion of its practicality? Sounds like a good idea..but maybe it isn't (?)
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    Well, I guess its practicality depends on how you use the cargo bay. I've never found that separating stuff between top and bottom sections helped much. More often, I found myself removing the shelf because it got in the way of carrying a large item. This requires first removing any items from the cargo bay so the shelf will fit on the floor, a nuisance. So, now it sits mostly on the floor and out of the way.

    The top shelf has a fairly low weight limit. I forget the amount. But the idea of having it piled high with stuff in a panic stop worried me a bit.

    I like the security it offers by blocking someone's view of your cargo. But with rear windows tinted, it's difficult to see the cargo anyway (unless the sun is shining directly into it). Still, I use it when traveling to hide our luggage from view.

    So, while it has some uses, I think it looks more useful than it is.
  • I have done a lot of body repairs on cars and I don't know why you couldn't fill that small ding with bondo. You would have to sand with course wet black sandpaper at first then work your way down to a 400 fine till its really smooth. Get the paint id of your door of your car and get the paint at Schucks and paint on a day that is not windy and at least 70 degrees. Let it dry for a week or so and wax it so it blends in with rest of paint. If your worried about doing it a body shop would probably do it for not to much, but its simple.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,881
    I had a shelf like that in my minivan. It was mostly worthless and kept getting in my way. I wound up throwing it away.

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Consider the Costco-exclusive Michelin X tires. This model was the highest-rated tire in a Consumer Reports test. In any case, read the users' comments on the Tire Rack website to avoid possible disappointment. For example, more than one poster noticed the irritating tendency for CRVs to follow longitudinal irregularities when equipped with one highly-rated tire.
  • CircleW-Thank you! Everything I always wanted to know about tire cracking.
  • tirerack.com is the way to go for info. Their prices are competetive too. Shipping runs about seven dollars per tire, then you have to lug them to someone to install them and balance them. That's about another $20 per tire.

    If you live in a suburban area, check out our local tire chain(s) for tires rated highly on tirerack.

    I also have a local guy that started just doing tires and oil changes. He has since expanded to 5 bays and now does brakes, suspensions, general repairs, things like that. I wonder about the skill of his mechanics, and they are not to big on providing receipts, but he beats the tire chains by about ten dollars per tire. And he knows what tires make people happy and which don't. He's big on Kumho and Yokohama. Kumhos are usually very decent and cheaper than the big names.

    The Firestone place by me offers free flat repairs and free tire rotations if you buy tires from them. That could really save you sa lot of money if you get the tires rotated about every 6000 miles (every other oil change). There might be like a $20 charge per tire for lifetime flat repair. But I saw recently that Firestone was having problems again with tread separation. Not sure what tire(s) are affected this time.
  • :confuse: Should the first oil change be done before 10,000 miles? I'd appreciate some feedback on this since I've always done oil changes at about 3500 miles or so....The Honda salesperson told me the car's monitor on the dashboard "will tell me." Seems to me that if the oil is not near 100%, might be time to change it (?)
    (I'm considering getting the first oil change when I have the tires rotated at about 5000 miles.) Please advise. Thanks!
  • berriberri Posts: 4,261
    But I saw recently that Firestone was having problems again with tread separation.

    You've got to be kidding - I can't believe it! We've owned problem 500's, 721's and Wilderness. I just won't touch them any more. Looks like Firestone doesn't care about their reputation letting this happen all over yet once again. Next thing you know, they'll be in Washington with their hand extended for a bailout!
  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    yes definitely get that oil changed before 10,000 miles. I would definitely change the oil at what you're used to at 3500 miles. You'll get some people on here who support Honda's thinking, and I think it's a cruel joke by Honda just to guarantee future service business by suggesting such long changes. Some will also tell you that oil changes at 3500 miles are "wasteful" of the earth's resources.
    Funny it's not a waste since they actually recycle oil. Plus it's not their car, it's yours!

    so to summarize, yes get that oil changed every 3500 or the old honda interval was 3750, fit nicely into 7500, then 15,000 miles for all the normal maintenance timings.

    And when you do go to the dealer it's important for you to check the oil level on the dipstick, make sure they didn't overfill it! I keep seeing that a lot at dealers, and don't let them tell you it's ok, because it's not. If it is over filled, make them drain it til it's within the max and min (closer to max) hope that helps! :shades:
  • Yes, thanks so very much for your imput! I have about 700 miles on the CRV now, and the oil life is showing 90%. Is that usual and normal? :confuse:
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    Both low beam headlights went out on my 04 CRV. I replaced both bulbs, checks both under-hood headlight fuses, AND swapped out the headlight relays (also in the under-hood fuse panel) with 2 others of the same p/n that were in the panel. Still no luck - calling the dealer today to see if there is something I'm missing. Any help appreciated !!
  • At first I didn't use the shelf much. Now I find I use it quite often. When shopping and going to multiple stores along with grocery shopping, I put the heavier items on the floor, and put the lighter, bulkier items on top(TP and PT). I can really pack the rear full that way. Also, unloading items bought for my daughter, they can be put on top and taken out, without going through the whole area.

    I also saw your oil change thread. Honda says to let the first oil stay in for the long period of time. I did that, and now use synthetic oil and follow their service intervals.
    I'll follow their advice. 2007 CRV
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    You are going to get widely different opinions on this. Some people actually think Honda's recommendations are part of a conspiracy to generate more repair business. There's not much one can say about that.

    My grandfather thought oil should be changed at 1,500 miles. My father is sure 3,000 is right. Both won't recognize that oils and engines have improved, making longer oil change intervals appropriate.

    I've always followed the automakers recommendations. I keep my cars 10-15 years. Not one has suffered from premature excess oil consumption or other oil-related problems.

    Honda knows their engines better than any of us shade tree mechanics. And, yes, the oil in your new car is a break-in oil that will help your engine last longer. Don't dump in down a drain until it's completed its job. Good luck.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,881
    Everybody knows that Honda uses special "break-in" oil and Honda says not to change the oil early to maximize engine performance. Check your owner's manual.

    "New oil has chemicals that eat away the catalytic converter, says Donny Seyfer, a Colorado-based certified master technician, and changing oil too often can damage that pricey part."

    The Great Car Maintenance Upsell (Yahoo/Smart Money)

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    yes definitely get that oil changed before 10,000 miles. I would definitely change the oil at what you're used to at 3500 miles. You'll get some people on here who support Honda's thinking, and I think it's a cruel joke by Honda just to guarantee future service business by suggesting such long changes. Some will also tell you that oil changes at 3500 miles are "wasteful" of the earth's resources.
    Funny it's not a waste since they actually recycle oil. Plus it's not their car, it's yours!

    so to summarize, yes get that oil changed every 3500 or the old honda interval was 3750, fit nicely into 7500, then 15,000 miles for all the normal maintenance timings.

    And when you do go to the dealer it's important for you to check the oil level on the dipstick, make sure they didn't overfill it! I keep seeing that a lot at dealers, and don't let them tell you it's ok, because it's not. If it is over filled, make them drain it til it's within the max and min (closer to max) hope that helps!


    Wouldn't the used oil analysis be the definitive answer? And accodring to the posted oil tests the K-series engines are very easy on the oil, and 10,000 miles on Group II (pure dinasaur juice) seems OK.
  • Does anyone know if I was ripped off? The blower stops working in my 2004 LX. The shop tells me that the a/c control head is out. I ask if they tested the blower motor and the blower resistor and they tell me that both are operational. The repair happens. When I pick the car up, they tell me that once the control head was replaced, the blower resistor was not working properly so that was replaced as well. Does this make sense? Was the resistor working and an add-on repair? Was the resistor the problem and the control head an add-on? Did they just do the diagnosing improperly? Any input would be appreciated...
  • I found the parcel shelf could be useful, if the larger objects are the right size. For me, our stroller it too big to fit under the shelf. On long trips however, I might place the stroller on top, and luggage under the shelf, which would best maximize the space.... like having 2 trunks in one. The overall footprint of hte trunk is about the same size as our Altima, but of course you can ple stuff a lot higher, its' easier to load, and a lot bigger and more vesitile wiht hte seats folded forward.

    As for oil changes. I agree, follow the maintenance minder or change after 12 months if your a low mileage driver like me. You might however, want to change the oil the first time 12 months from the MFG date, not the date you took delivery... or specifically 12 months from when it first started being operated.

    I used to change my oil at 5000 or 6 months, but I'm starting to think that was probably overkill.
  • Hi. I am new to the forum and have a question about my husbands CRV. His car failed inspection for emissions. The code was P1166 which apparently is the O2 sensor. I am more than willing to replace it myself since Honda wants a ridiculous amount of money to do it. I know I will need an O2 socket, but my question is this: Is there any way to tell which O2 sensor is bad? There are 2 and I don't want to replace the wrong one. Any help would be appreciated as well as any advice on how to go about the actual replacement. This will be my first ever attempt at auto repair!

    Thanks
    Christine
  • Consider getting a service manual. I believe it can be checked with a multimeter. As with any sensor, either the resistance or voltage needs to be checked. If it's pegged at a minimum or maximum voltage or resitance reading while the engine is running, it's probably a good indication it's bad.

    Otherwise a scan tool might be able to interface with the computer and tell you which of the 2 sensors is giving an out of range reading.

    If you have no idea what I'm talking about...then you're relegated to being a "parts changer", and you can buy 1 new sensor, take a 50/50 shot to see if the problem is fixed. If not, swap sensors again.
  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    sounds about normal for 90% at 700 miles. But remember that monitor is set up for 10,000 mile intervals. 10% = 700 miles X 10 intervals = 7,000 miles (100% used). See how close it really is?

    And I love the urban myth that Honda uses "special break in" oil. No one has ever proven that is true at all. But I usually change the oil at around 1000 miles regardless of what the owner's manual says. I had a couple of honda's before that I listened to the oil change recommendations and didn't change the oil at 1000 miles, the fuel economy wasn't as good then as it was on the one I did the first oil change at 1000 miles.

    But if you don't want to change the oil at 1000, then definitely at 3000 miles you should change it out. Then after that like you wanted around 3500-3750 miles.
    and you're welcome for the help!
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