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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    Is there anything wrong by changing to 10W30? I don't think so.

    You may not think so, but people who have used "better" oils have reported higher incidents of VTEC solenoid failure.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    What happens when raining, snowing, cloudy, overcast and at night?

    The automatic dual climate control systems on Acuras use GPS signal to determine which side of the car is exposed to the sun during the day and lowers the temperature on that side. It does not account for clouds, and turns off at night.
  • nayaknayak Posts: 15
    All,

    My first oil change came up at about 10K miles. And now the CRV maintenance system is stating that I need to go for the next service (at 10%). According to the Honda service advisor, this service should be the "B" service which costs about $120. Service "B" includes the following:
    1. Replace engine oil anf filter
    2. Inspect Front and Rear Brakes
    3. Check Parking Brake Adjustment
    4. Inspect the following:
    a) Tie Rod Ends, Steering Gear Box, and Boots
    b) Suspension Components
    c) Driveshaft Boots
    d) Brake Hoses and Lines (including ABS)
    e) All Fluid Levels and condition of fluids
    f) Exhaust System
    g) Fuel Lines and Connections.

    Do you guys recommend going for the B service or just do a regular oil/filter change and tire rotation (I think they throw that in w/oil change)? If I can just do the regular oil/filter change and tire rotation for now, when do you think I should do a major maintenance?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    That's a lot of money to pay someone to lift a car up and shine a flashlight around.

    I'd just do the oil and filter and have you or someone else check the fluids.

    MODERATOR

  • A competent local idependan shop should prefrm those other items for free with an oil change. Why? Because maybe 10% of the time they inspect a vehcile, they discover an issue. Not only is that good for the customer to discover a problem early, it provides additonal business.
  • I have a brand new 2010 CR-V. I have been having fun driving it but I am having a hard time adjusting to the computerized gauges and read-outs. I notice that my temperature gauge is consistently reading at 2 notches below the middle......to the cooler side. The owners manual says that the gauge should read in the middle. I am assuming that they mean the "middle range" and to the cooler side would be OK. But now I am not sure if my assumption is correct. I plan on calling the dealer this afternoon but I would like some informed opinions before talking to the service tech.

    On another note. I had a Subaru before this car. The Subaru's AWD system was great in snow. I got a chance to test out the CR-V's AWD since we got a significant amount of snow over the last few days. The car is remarkably stable and responsive, so I am very pleased.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    I don't have the 2010 OWNER's MANUAL, but the 2005's says that as long as the gauge stays between the blue (too cold) and red (too hot) zones it is fine.

    The gauges in many modern cars are buffered, and as you said "computerized." If you want to get the accurate and up-to-date information, try ScanGauge. It plugs into the OBDII port and you can set it up to read out whatever information the computer receives.

    Accordging to scangauge the engine coolant temperature fluctuates between 177°F and 190°F, but the water temperature gaues in the dash does not reflect those changes, ever.

    If you want to have fun with the CR-V, go to a snow covered parking lot, away from poles, people and cars. Turn off the VSC. Put the vehicle in 1st gear. Turn the steering wheel to one side to almost full lock. And jab the gas pedal...

    The front wheels will slip, sending the power to the back, and will turn the CR-V into a "drifto machine"

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6qxbyUlRz4
  • I have noticed the same temperature gauge reading - to the left of center, two notches!
    Seems to me that the vehicle takes longer to start to warm up - at least longer than any other car/CRV I have had. And that means that the car interior is cooler for a longer time. And now that the cool season is upon me, the mpg seems to have dropped off more than I would have expected. That would be consistent with the engine "throttle" being too wide.
    Could it be a defective thermostat?

    When I take in in for its first oil change I will ask the dealer, but I would be interested in sharing what we - and others - find out.

    I do really like the car!
  • Plum Tern,I called the dealer and they told me that the gauges are set to a notch or so under the middle. I don't know if that is right or not, so I would be interested in hearing what your dealer says when you bring your car in for servicing. Unlike your car,my CR-V seems to warm up pretty fast and the interior feels very toasty (presently it is about 20 degrees out). I have driven about 700 miles so far and the mpg seems to be around 24 or 25. That is mostly highway and about 30% around town.I think that number is pretty good considering that the car was in it's break-in period.

    Let me know how you make out at the dealer. I really like this car also!
  • Baydrive
    Thanks for the perspective.
    I wll not get to the dealer for an oil change and gauge check until January, so please "standy by."
    A longer drive this weekend may clarify mpg issues as well.
  • I recently bought a new CRV. I plan to change the oil myself. How do I reset the maintenance reminder after the oil change? Is it automatically done?
    Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,834
    That should be something you can do. Check in your owner's manual for the procedure, as 2010 vehicles may be different from previous yearsI can only give you 2009:

    Resetting the Oil Life Display

    NOTE:

    * The vehicle must be stopped to reset the display. If a required service is done and the display is not reset, or if the maintenance display is reset without doing the service, the system will not show the proper maintenance timing. This can lead to serious mechanical problems because there will be no accurate record of when the required maintenance is needed.
    * The engine oil life and the maintenance items can be reset independently only with the HDS.

    1. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II)/
    2. Push and release the Select/Reset knob repeatedly until the engine oil life indicator is displayed.
    3. Press and hold the Select/Reset knob for about 10 seconds. The information display shows the reset mode display.

    NOTE: If you are resetting the display when the engine oil life is more than 15%, make sure any maintenance item(s) requiring service are done before resetting the display.

    4. Press and hold the Select/Reset knob again for about another 5 seconds. The maintenance item code(s) will disappear, and the engine oil life will reset to "100".

    VISITING HOST

    MODERATOR

  • If the vehicle is truly taking a long time to warm up, (not just your perception) then it most likely is a thermostat that is stuck open. About the only negative side effect of that is that the vehicle takes longer to warm up in winter. It would have no impact whatsoever on the final gauge reading once the vehicle has warmed up.
  • Thanks so much for the info. I used to have a Honda Civic and I forgot that was the way I used to reset the maintanence reminder.
  • zeenzeen Posts: 391
    They wanted $220 at my dealer for the 20k service. I had them do the oil change and tire rotation only and I did the filters and saved about $90. The filters (engine and cabin air) were available at my local Advance Auto for about $15 each made by Purolator. Replacement took 5 minutes for each. The Youtube videos didn't seem to helpful, especially for the 2008 but it really was easy.
  • I have a 2008 CRV and I changed my engine and cabin filters also. I got my information at eHow.com, its a great site. The explain in detail
  • I really hope you don't change your own oil. I see a recipe for disaster. For future reference, the owner's manual to ANY vehicle is nearly worthless. A factory service manual, however, is very helpful to a seasoned mechanic.

    Timing chains are not lifetime items. They are metal, they wear on metal or plastic gears. THEY WILL WEAR OUT, PERIOD. THEY NEED REPLACEMENT AT CERTAIN INTERVALS. Granted, they can be run for exceptionally long periods of time without fail, but regardless are a wear item. As the chain slackens due to use, the top half of the motor and the bottom half will not be as in-time as they once were.

    Timing belt replacement can be anywhere from 50k-100k miles.

    Timing chain replacement is generally every 100k miles to keep a nice, tight chain, or as the manufacturer suggests.

    If they say it will never wear out, they are wrong. It may last long enough for you to sell it, but it's Russian roulette at that point.

    As with anything, free advice on the Internet is exactly that. Anonymous and free. Questions like this are better answered on a dedicated forum to whichever vehicle you happen to be working on, or to a local repair shop with a good reputation. And of course the dealer who sold you the vehicle.

    And for those of you who don't understand, the timing chain keeps the rotating parts in the upper half of the motor (cylinder head) from colliding with the rotating parts in the lower half (engine block). Hence TIMING chain. When a chain breaks, it generally sends open intake and exhaust valves to meet the pistons, the result of which is bent valves, broken or nicked pistons, head rebuilds, and other costly engine repair. It's basic mechanics.

    Or to put it another way, say you're driving down the road and your front wheels are rotating at the same speed as the rear wheels. Great! What happens if your front wheels decide to operate at half speed or not at all? By the same instance in the motor, two rotating circles need to rotate together or they don't work.

    Unless of course you're doing a brake stand. :D
  • jaba88jaba88 Posts: 1
    My daughter has a 2002 Honda CR-V. I was attempting to replace her factory radio with an after market product. Removed old radio and connected new one using a wiring harness. First test worked perfectly - new radio operated correctly, speakers worked, etc. Removed radio to put on mounting ears and finish the job. I now have 2 problems:

    1. There no longer appears to be any power to the radio. I have reconnected both the new one and the old factory unit and neither will power up. I have checked the fuse for the radio and it is OK.

    2. When the ignition key is turned to the accessory power position an audible clicking can be heard from the speedometer area for about 3 to 5 seconds. The speedometer needle also vibrates while this clicking sound is happening. This is happening regardless of whether the old or new radio is installed or not installed. Car starts just fine, and the clicking stops every time after being in the accessory position for 3 to 5 seconds.

    I am assuming the 2 issues are related. Any ideas on what may be wrong? Thanks in advance.
  • I was thinking about having a air deflector put on my 2009 CRV ? Any suggestions or comments. Is it better to have a Honda place put it on ? I got a price of $200 installed.
  • Logic would dictate there are two fuses since there are two power circuits. One turns the radio on when the ignition switch is on, and one is hot all the time to maintain station presets and the clock.

    You should also be aware of the goofy charging system on Hondas. Everything electrical is monitored, then the charging system provides the exact amount of current needed to run everything and recharge the battery, and no more. Not sure what the problem was, but they found a solution to it. Your new radio will not be included in this silly calculation so over time the battery will become discharged. Don't be surprised if you have to put a battery charger on it every month or two. This might not apply if you used only the wires in the original radio conector and didn't run any extra power or ground wires.

    caradiodoc
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,797
    My daughter has a 2002 Honda CR-V. I was attempting to replace her factory radio with an after market product. Removed old radio and connected new one using a wiring harness. First test worked perfectly - new radio operated correctly, speakers worked, etc. Removed radio to put on mounting ears and finish the job. I now have 2 problems:

    1. There no longer appears to be any power to the radio. I have reconnected both the new one and the old factory unit and neither will power up. I have checked the fuse for the radio and it is OK.

    2. When the ignition key is turned to the accessory power position an audible clicking can be heard from the speedometer area for about 3 to 5 seconds. The speedometer needle also vibrates while this clicking sound is happening. This is happening regardless of whether the old or new radio is installed or not installed. Car starts just fine, and the clicking stops every time after being in the accessory position for 3 to 5 seconds.

    I am assuming the 2 issues are related. Any ideas on what may be wrong? Thanks in advance.


    Did you disconnect the battery when you installed the new radio?

    Did you use a harness adapter? Did you match the wires based on color, or function? Or did yo just clip the OEM harness?

    The radio has 2 power circuits, make sure both fuses are good. Not 100% sure if the "always on" circuit powers the cluster, but worth checking the "meter" fuse.

    Good luck.
  • I was thinking about having an air deflector put on my 2009 Honda CRV. Is it better to have a dealership put it on ? They have given me a price of $200 installed. Does anyone have one on their CRV, do you have any problems with it ? Any suggestions or advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • http://www.handa-accessories.com. and look up the deflector. They have the instruction there. If you think you can follow them, you can install it. I installed mine on my 07 CRV. It is not a hard job and you will save $100
  • Thanks. Do you like your air-deflector ? Do you have any problems with it ?
  • Yes I do. It safes the only metal part of the front end from chipping from Road Stones if your on the Highway alot. Plus I thing it looks good on My White CRV
  • lou777lou777 Posts: 3
    Can you drive through the car wash?

    Lorenzo
  • I only use the high pressure water one or I do it by hand at home. This time of the year in RI it's the High Pressure water one, which I just came back from. The other type scratch your car
  • Thanks for the info. I have a white CRV also. I live in Michigan and go through the car wash--a soft one--to get the salt off. Do you think it will tear off the air delector?
  • I don't thing so. It's not like the one on my Ridgeline with "EARS" sticking over the fenders. There is a screw and holder on both ends :shades:
  • i have just recently burnt the clutch plate out of my CRV and was looking for a step by step on how to get to it and take it appart , and also some prices.
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