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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Thank you Mark so much for the information. I will do as you advised.
  • MM shows 20 now but I have a long trip coming soon, if I change the oil and reset MM, will it shows the service that I need to do soon or it shows until down to 15 next time?
  • I learned from another forum that this is due to turning the ignition switch too slowly. I had the same problem. Once I started turning it quickly from position II the zapping sound disappeared. Try it.
  • I know this reply is late in coming but for those who may have this issue in the future, try turning the key quickly from position II. This method solved my problem with engine not turning on.
  • I have a one year CRV, just discovered an oil leak from the side of the engin.
    This is a new car and should not have this leak unless Honda uses cheap parts from the dollar store.
  • I have an 06 CRV, That suddenly lost power to the radio, I checked the fuses and they are all good?

    When the ignition key is turned to the accessory power position an audible clicking can be heard from the speedometer area for about 3 to 5 seconds. The speedometer needle also vibrates while this clicking sound is happening. The car starts just fine, and the clicking stops every time after being in the accessory position for 3 to 5 seconds.
    There are also other odd things like power locks dont operate unless key is in the on position?
  • Thanks for your feedback (just saw your note). I'll definitely look into your suggestions.
  • We have a 2010 Cr-v, and it sounds like one of the lock actuators is "squealing" when the doors automatically lock. We bought it new, but just turned over 26k miles. I am assuming that the warranty will cover this, but not for certain. I despise the selling dealer, so might have to take it to another dealer. Also, to me, the steering in ours is much looser than with our daughter's 2007. Does anyone else have these issues? Thanks! :confuse:
  • susanjeansusanjean Posts: 5
    edited December 2011
    I am having issues with rainwater getting into my 2009 CRV. The floor is often wet on the front passenger side UNDER the floor mat. I picked it up yesterday from the service dept at the dealer, after asking them to look into this, and they assured me that nothing is leaking, seals are "good." Last night we had some heavy rain and the floorboard was wet again this morning, in the same spot. Has anyone else had this problem? I do have a moon roof. The car is going back to the service dept on Friday--not a happy camper!!!
  • My 2002 CRV EX has 181,839 has had no problem passing smog.About two weeks ago the check engine light came on.When it was scanned these codes came back:
    P1166- Heated oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor 1 heater malfunction
    P1167- Heated oxygen sensor 1 heater malfunction
    P0420- Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1
    P1077- Intake manifold tuning(intake manifold runner control) valve stuck short
    P0661- Intake manifold tuning valve control circuit low bank 1
    P1077- Intake manifold tuning(Intake manifold runner control) valve stuck short
    I plan to check to upstream o2 sensor at the cat converter tomorrow.To see what values it gives me.But out side of that.I'm going to check the valve clearance since that hasn't been done in 100k miles.
    Can you tell me what i'm dealing with here.Any info would be greatly appericated.Its also a vtec engine.Thanks.
  • drr98drr98 Posts: 80
    Anyone here change their own oil?

    Did the first oil change and found that only Mobil 1 has the ow20 oil. And only in single qts (the worst value) $9.xx/qt at A Z, and $6.99/qt at W M.

    Saddly, W M only had 4 qts in stock so I had to buy one from A Z.

    We live in a moderate climate, with hot summers.

    I am considering going to 5w20 or 5w30 for next change.

    Anyone been down this road?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,041
    You could have a vacuum leak at the hoses which connect to the IMRC or a loose or corroded electrical connection at the IMRC solenoid valve or where it connects to the PCM.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • 04 with 126K. Intermittently when I start the car I turn the key all the way an hear a noise like the key is sending signal but it is not engaging. Almost like a sparking sound. Reminds me of the sound of a gas grill when you press the automatic lighter and it keeps trying to spark. Happens very intermittently -once every few weeks and the car turns over fine.

    The dealer could not replicate - they suggested it could be a starter, but even they were not sure so nothing was done. The starter was actually replaced a few years ago, but my recollection is the sound was different. That was more of a failure to crank and it was doing it every time. This sounds different
  • This might sound elementary, but I would look for corrosion on the battery terminals and connections. It will cost you nothing and may help.
  • californiagalcaliforniagal Posts: 10
    edited January 2012
    I had the same problem. It turns out that the key has to be turned quickly from the second position. After I started doing that the hissing noise disappeared and never happened again. This is a problem with Hondas as I read other forums.
  • drr98drr98 Posts: 80
    Oil in '10 CRV - anyone change their own oil?

    If so, what oil are you using?
  • I've got a 2010 LX, and, do my own oil changes. I use Mobil 1 0W - 20 in her. I drive the CRV for business, and, she's got just over 60K on her now.

    Regards:
    Oldbearcat
  • nayaknayak Posts: 15
    We have a 2008 CRV-EX at 53K mileage. It is driven to work and back, mostly on highways.

    We also have a 2008 Odyssey EX-L, driven around town/school, mostly local small roads with a lot of stop and go.

    Now, the Odyssey had its Maintenance Minder state B123 at about 30K. Question is about the "3", which stands for "Replace Transmission Fluid".

    My question is that the CRV has still not given the "3" minder. It has given "A", "B", "1", and "2" until now. It has again just given an "A1" maint minder, when I was expecting "3" to have come up. This is very much different from the Odyssey (though understood they are different vehicles, used for different purposes too).

    1) Is it quite normal for the CRV to have yet not given the "3" minder, even at 53K mileage?
    What has been your experience?
    2) Should I wait for "3" minder to come up to replace the transmission fluid? Or is it advisable to do it without it saying so?

    Any experiences/thoughts will be helpful.

    Thanks in advance!
  • Hi. the Dealer told me the ATF is starting to get dirty and recommended a service quoted at $250. What kind of service does the dealer perform? What is really needed - a full flush or a one time drain and refill?
  • My 2005 Honda CRV owner's manual says to change the ATF for the first time at 120,000 miles or 6 years. Thereafter, change the ATF at 90,000 or every 5 years. All fluids in all vehicles get dirty over time; this is nothing scarey, it is normal, and normal, routine maintenance will suffice to keep your vehicle healthy and happy. Moreover, Honda's HSN 0206-07 (Feb 1, 2006) is rather adamant that you NEVER flush a Honda vehicle, and provides excellent rationale for this stance. Were I in your shoes, I would challenge the Dealer to show me recent Honda-provided documentation to support his/her 'recommendations,' especially about FLUSHING. The Dealers, of course, earn their handsome living by selling, along with necessary services, many unnecessary services to gullible customers. In example, my local Dealer STILL puts the 3,000 mile NEXT OIL CHANGE 'Recommendation' sticker on my windshield after each oil change. Honda recommends a 10,000 oil change. Now, the Dealer KNOWS that, of course, and I've bitched at them for years about their deceitful practice, to no avail. Before I'd lay down $250.00 or even $25.00 I would make the Dealer document his recommendations to my satisfaction. The bottom line - that vehicle is YOUR expensive investment to protect - the Dealer has nothing at risk.
  • With the new AWD in the 2012, is it still recommended to replace all four tires if one is damaged? What other maintenance is required with an AWD?
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    This would depend on how many miles are on the other 3 (or 4 if you rotate the spare, which is highly recommended from the beginning) The idea is to try to keep all four tires in use, a similar outside circumference. i.e. If you had 3 tires with 40000 miles and were 3/4 or more used up, and then if you chose a brand new tire of the identical brand, model, size, then the new tire would have a larger outside circumference and in one mile, it goes around fewer revolutions than the other 3 used tires and this matters for two reasons if the difference was severe enough. First, you want the differentials in your axles, to be spinning the same RPM from left to right and on AWD cars, front to rear also. Small variations are not considered a deal breaker. The other issue though is the stability control system which uses many components including ABS etc that measures the rotations of each wheel and sometimes the parameters are quite strict and don't allow for much variance. This could be tested by letting out air of one tire (about 15 lb lower than the rest) and driving a short distance to see if the ESC light flashes on the dash.

    Pretty hard to advise much more here on email without not being there and being able to discuss in person and see the car and the old and new tires under consideration.

    If the spare is full sized, and since it is a 2012 car, you probably don't have that many miles on the originals I would use it. If it was my car and I had 10000 or less miles and if the spare is not full sized, I would buy one new same brand /model /size tire and call it a day.
    Hope that helps.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,041
    yes, outside circumference is the key word. I know with Subarus, the experts said no more than 1/4 inch variance in outside circumference. That's not a lot of wear but it might be enough slack so that you don't have to replace all tires.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • My 08 CR-V has 35,000 and dealer suggest change ATF, brake field and power steering field. Should I change it?
  • You should take a moment and read this article, written by a shop owner.

    http://autos.aol.com/article/fluid-flush-fallacy/
  • bellavidabellavida Posts: 1
    edited February 2012
    I am seeking to replace my 1997 Honda Civic LX...it's been 15 yrs, 140,000 HAPPY miles and we must part. I have test-driven a RAV 4 and CRV. I like them both but it comes down to the horrible design of the RAV4 rear door...I cannot live with it opening out instead of the hatchback. If you had to do it over again...would you buy a Honda CRV? For me buying a car is a necessary evil....I don't enjoy the process but I want something reliable with good mileage.
  • Thanks for the reply. I know we don't need to change those fields so often or maybe we don't even need to change it. I just want to know if something that I need to change or just top it up, I don't mind. I checked the owner manual, the maintenance minder only has "3" for transmission and "5" for coolant, brake field should change every 3 years, but didn't mention about the power steering field.
  • I own a 2010 CRV, and, if I had it to do over again, I wouldn't buy it. I use the CRV as a business driver, and, with all the interstate driving I do, it simply doesn't deliver enough fuel economy to put up with its level of performance. If you want good mileage, and, do a fair amount of running at interstate speeds, I suggest you look at other brands - unless you'll be satisfied with average fuel economy in the low 20's.

    Regards:
    Oldbearcat
  • Just took my car in for A1 service this morning. I bought the car new in Sept 2007 and it currently has 44,438K miles on it .

    When the car was last serviced in May 2011 they told me I would need front brake pads and rotors resurfaced next time I came in. Granted that was 9 months ago and fortunately I have only had the car serviced on average once every 9-12 months since I bought the car .

    When it was last serviced the brake pads were at 4MM and I had about 40K miles on the car.

    I do mainly city driving in New England. Today, after they inspected the car they have now told me that not only to I need new brake pads but I need new rotors as well. They cannot be resurfaced.

    So, my question is this: Are completely replacing new front rotors normal at 44K miles on a car that is 4 1/2 years old? I had the rear brake pads done and those rotors resurfaced at 33K miles. This is the first time the front brakes have been touched on this car.

    Thanks for your help.
  • My wife was just quoted $429.95 for her 30,000 mile maintenance from a Honda dealer garage. Now she's asking me if she should go ahead with it.

    With absolutely no background info beyond that, it seems quite high to me. However, I'm not sure what gets done and what's reasonable in our market (Santa Monica, CA).

    Is this an unreasonable quote? We are not DIY car people so please don't reply with that.
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