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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • bpamplinbpamplin Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Honda CRV, How do you install the front license plate?
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Posts: 191
    Are you serious?
    Put 2 screws in the two holes and turn or take the car to the dealer, it's free.
  • crvme3crvme3 Posts: 140
    Dan,
    That truly is an odd one... That you would get the vibration feel only on the first run up to 70mph. Did you check real good around the axle shafts. Possibly part of the truck tire casing has wrapped around one of them. Each axle has a rubber "vibration damper": donut & due to the slight angle downward towards the wheel a piece of this casing may be caught or hung up on it... As you speed up to 70mph it may be enough to throw the axle out of balance, subsequently as you slow down the spinning of the axle may cause it to move thus you don't feel it on second run up... After you have stopped/parked it may slip down again. Just a shot in the dark my friend. Good luck with this puzzle :)
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    that's a good guess.

    i remember a friend driving through some mud once with one wheel when parking at a campsite in the woods. when he took off the next day, he experienced high-vibration at speed. turns out some mud hardened on the inside of the rim throwing off the balance of that tire.

    a good spray with a water hose to remove the caked mud put everything right.

    related story, but not about vibration: my wife not long ago ran over some road debris in our ODY van and didn't tell me. i drove the car and noted creaking comming from the rear of the vehicle. for a few days, i thought maybe a rear strut was loose. finally i get fed up, and drive the vehicle's passenger side up onto the curb so i can scoot myself under the rear of the car more easily. lo-and-behold i find an iron water shut-off pole (these things are like 4feet long) wedged up into the rear spring. it had to be placed on a hydraulic lift to unload the spring so we could get the pole out.

    wow, i couldn't believe our luck. no damage to the ABS / brake lines, cat convertor, muffler, and no puncture to the fuel tank.

    hopefully, the poster can get this solved easily and inexpensively.
  • crvme3crvme3 Posts: 140
    Good road hazzard story... Years back was driving through Death Valley Calif. on a small 1 lane service road just checking out the sites, rounded a corner to find a wild Mule just standing in the roadway, I had to stop fairly short to avoid hitting him & the dam thing would not move... After about a 10 min stare down (mule & I) & not really sure what was on his mind, I did what any red blooded American would do- I honked the horn!... "BIG MISTAKE" my friend the Mule proceeded to kick the living you know what out of the front of my car. Luckily he did not do any mechanical damage (A/C condenser, radiator etc.) But before he was done he destroyed my grille hood & 1 headlite. You can only guess what the frame of my mind was like the remainder of that road trip. :mad:
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,788
    "Are you serious?
    Put 2 screws in the two holes and turn or take the car to the dealer, it's free."

    Some states do not require the front license plate, so the frame for the front is not included in delivery. The dealer should be able to provide the frame.
  • boqibamaboqibama Posts: 25
    Need your help. Recently the crack noise came out on my 06 crv from the passenger rear side. It only happens when the car makes the first take off with more than 3 passengers inside. The dealer changed the rear suspension, the noise disappeared and back again after 3 weeks. They have no idea now. Did anybody experience this before? I am a bit mad that it happens on a 1 year old car. Thank you in advance.
  • Good morning - I have a 2002 CRV and a few months ago I started having issues with my keyless remote. It will lock and unlock all of the doors except the driver side and will only unlock the other doors after two pushes on the button. I changed the battery in the remote and nothing changed....So -- I've been using the key to open and lock the driver side door. Now - I am starting to have difficulties in getting the key INTO the door lock - it sticks and I have to take it out and do it again - sometimes three or four times before it slides in and allows me to lock or unlock the driver side door. Any thoughts?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,687
    It sounds like the problem is with your driver's side door lock, not the remote. Maybe some screws lose, and the lock cylinder has shifted?

    MODERATOR
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  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    and will only unlock the other doors after two pushes on the button.

    And the OWNER's MANUAL says that you need to press the "unlock" button twice to unlock other doors. First press unlocks the driver's door, and second press unlocks the rest.

    Sounds like your problem is not with the remote but with the driver's door lock. It is either dirty, or corroded.

    Check if the solenoid and actuator work when pressing the "lock" or "unlock" buttons on the remote or the button inside the vehicle. Chances are your driver's door will not work when the button inside is pressed.

    If you hear the noise, but nothing happens, remove the door skin and see if the linkages are still intact.

    Most likely culprit is the solenoid, and needs to be replaced.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    That's exactly how mine started out with my 99 CRV, eventually it got worse and the remote or even the auto door locks wouldn't unlock the driver's side door at all. I have to manually pull the stupid thing up to unlock the door or from the outside use the key. The problem is with the insides of the door handle itself and the estimate was about $500. I never got it fixed and stopped using the remote all together.
  • I have a 1997 CR-V and also experience stalling problems. On my daily commute, it does not matter weather I am going 5 or 70 mph, 3-5 times a day the car completely dies..no lights, radio, or dashboard controls. For the most part I am able to restart by putting the care in neutral, but the problem is worsening, stalling 10 or more times a day. In addition, the car is beginning to show problems restarting. This is the 2nd posting I have seen about the CRV's stalling problem. The other posting stated the same problem and that it could be a rotor issue?? I have had a complete tune-up and the fuel injector clean with no change. I will talk to a mechanic about the rotor and ignition coil as possible culprits.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    if the car completely dies, and you have no dash indication, i'm thinking ignition switch issue, or battery cable issue.

    i suppose another possibility is a fuel relay or pump, but if either was at root cause, i'm thinking the alternator light and SRS and oil light ect would illuminate.

    because just about everything seems dead, it's almost like turning off the ignition right?

    so my first inclination: worn ignition switch or faulty wiring to same. and the more you use it, the more it's likely to get worse.

    look here *at the bottom*. hmmm, maybe its a recall item! :D
    http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/index.htm?p_make=HON&h_make=HON&p_model= 142
  • shifting2shifting2 Posts: 7
    I have a 2004 cr-v that tends to rev with foot off accelerator especially between 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th.
    At times it will rev up to 2,400 rpm between reverse and 1st before the clutch engages. Any thoughts?
    I had asked about this once before and thought it was getting better but I was just compensating by leaving the clutch engaged longer.
    Worse when cold.
    Any association with ETC that some of you have written about?
    Thanks for any insights.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I have a 2004 cr-v that tends to rev with foot off accelerator especially between 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th.
    At times it will rev up to 2,400 rpm between reverse and 1st before the clutch engages. Any thoughts?
    I had asked about this once before and thought it was getting better but I was just compensating by leaving the clutch engaged longer.
    Worse when cold.
    Any association with ETC that some of you have written about?
    Thanks for any insights.


    So, let's say you are in 1st, preparing to shift into 2nd, you ease off the accelerator, press the clutch, shift into 2nd, and as you start to release the clutch, the engine revs to 2,400 RPM? At what RPM were you prior to shifting?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I have a 1997 CR-V and also experience stalling problems. On my daily commute, it does not matter weather I am going 5 or 70 mph, 3-5 times a day the car completely dies..no lights, radio, or dashboard controls. For the most part I am able to restart by putting the care in neutral, but the problem is worsening, stalling 10 or more times a day. In addition, the car is beginning to show problems restarting. This is the 2nd posting I have seen about the CRV's stalling problem. The other posting stated the same problem and that it could be a rotor issue?? I have had a complete tune-up and the fuel injector clean with no change. I will talk to a mechanic about the rotor and ignition coil as possible culprits.

    Register your VIN number at Honda's owner's link and see if the FREE Ignition switch recall has been performed.
  • rrbhokiesrrbhokies Posts: 108
    My 07 cargo shelf on my EX-L rattles. I've checked and everything is latched. However, where the shelf pins clip into the body of the car, there is some wiggle room on a few and when metal hits metal, you get a rattle.

    I haven't done anything yet, but my workaround will probably be to put some tissue or something around the pins to make them fit more snuggly so they won't rattle.

    Has anyone else been experiencing this problem? What have been your workarounds, if any?
  • carol19carol19 Posts: 2
    Thanks. The steering wheel was shaking violently when I braked. The last time I had 2 different opinions - the dealer said that I didn't need anything done; the company that changed by tires said I did. I asked the dealer if something else was causing this to happen they said no but I'm wondering about the calipers. I had to replace the heat shield because it was rusted out.
  • shifting2shifting2 Posts: 7
    I just tried it and 1st to 1,800.
    Clutch depressed with rpm to 2,400.
    Engaged 2nd with rpm to 2,000.
    Made sure foot off the accelerator between gears.
    I have discovered that if I wind it up about 800 rpm more than usual in each gear before shifting, the effect is much less pronounced.(this matches the rpm for each gear in my accord auto.).
    Thanks for the response.Either I am getting old and picky or throttle responses have changed since our '89 accord manual.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I just tried it and 1st to 1,800.
    Clutch depressed with rpm to 2,400.
    Engaged 2nd with rpm to 2,000.
    Made sure foot off the accelerator between gears.
    I have discovered that if I wind it up about 800 rpm more than usual in each gear before shifting, the effect is much less pronounced.(this matches the rpm for each gear in my accord auto.).
    Thanks for the response.Either I am getting old and picky or throttle responses have changed since our '89 accord manual.


    You are shifting too low. Try shifting at around 2500 RPM for low RPM shifts, and around 6800 RPM for "spirited driving".

    I think what is happenning is that you press the accelerator to get the car moving, but because the RPM's are so low, when you shift there is residual air/fuel mixture in the manifold that has not been burned off. When you release the clutch the residual mixture causes the engine to rev up.

    I assume the revs don't stay up, and come down to idle after a little while.
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