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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • Hi
    I have a beautiful 1999 Honda CRV. I have had no issues but two. My clock no longer works and my automatic door locks don't work on my key fob. Now the weird thing is it is just when its warm. Freezing cold, middle of winter, no problems, I can lock and unlock using the remote. Today however weather is in the mid 60's and nada, nothing...

    Is this an issue with the fuse or am I going to have to take it to my repair person!
    Thanks a bunch
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I own 2 '99 CRVs (one with a manual tranny, one with an automatic). Both of them acted like the ignition key was suddenly turned off as I was travelling down the road.at around the same mileage (160,000 km or around 100,000Miles).

    Have the Ignition switch recall been performed?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I have a '96 CRV ( import) auto and i let it freeze up now the water flows out as quickly as i can put it in from the region of the bottom pulley but i can't exactly determine where.
    So how can i get the pulley nut undone to check the damage?
    The engine rotates anti clockwise and i have tried to pull the nut off clockwise but i need to jam the crank so that i can get some leverage on it.
    I do not have any specialist tools so do i need to go to a garage.
    Any tips or advice most welcome
    Regards, Salsaboy


    What did you have for coolant? It takes a lot of really cold weather to freeze 50% antifreeze (Honda branded).

    Ifoyu jus thad water in there, then you most likely broke the water pump. It is driven by the timing belt, and this is why you see drippage under the crank pulley.

    While you are at it, replacing the water pump, replace the timing belt as well. On the 96 model it was only good for 60,000 miles.
  • Hi,

    I have a Honda CRV 2002. I was driving at 35 mph and probably a ice block hit the bottom of the car.I see under the Honda CRV when looking from passenger side front door a cylindrical part ( 1 foot in length) which has a square hole and looks rusted. What is this part ?

    Thanks

    kanas
  • mjb56mjb56 Posts: 170
    Have any of you done a fluid change on your CR-V's rear differential? If so, how difficult is it? Any particular tricks other than changing the washer on each drain hole?
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    Done this twice on my 04 with 110K miles. Not hard at all. Takes a little more that 1 Qt of the dual pump fluid from dealer so get 2 plus 2 of the crush washers. Don't substitute any other type of fluid - there is no better replacement. Honda changed to a dual pump fluid II which is better than before and lasts longer. You also need an item from an auto parts store also, it is a pump top that screws onto a oil quart size bottle (that's what the dual pump fluid comes in). Turns the quart into what's like a big bottle of hand lotion. There is a short tube with it as well. Costs like $5. You need it because you can't tip the bottle enough to fill the differential.

    A standard 1/4" racket drive fits into the square hole of the fill and drain plugs. It will be tight. Loosen the top (fill) plug first. Hate to drain the fluid then find out that you can't get the fill plug open.

    Drain the fluid, then hold the hose of the pump thing in the hole and start pumping. Refill till the fluid starts to overflow a bit - you'll know when it's topped off. That's it.
  • mjb56mjb56 Posts: 170
    Wow! that does sound easy. Thanks much for saving me $60. Is this new fluid supposed to last longer than the recommended 30K?
  • I have a friend with a CRV (not sure what year at the moment) with both low beam headlights out. High beams Ok. There are two fuses and two relays in the engine compartment fuse panel, all good. (They are Left/Right not High/Low fuses and relays)

    I pulled out my multi-tester and found voltage on both hot wires at the connector, so I'm stumped. Did you find any info, here or elsewhere?

    I guess I forgot to mention that when I found voltage where it should be, I replaced both bulbs with no effect.
  • After much searching I have found only one other post indicating the same problem and it had no replies, So.... I have a friend with a 2004? CRV. She has no low beams, high beams work fine. Expecting it to be a simple diagnosis, I checked all fuses and found two (left/right) in the Engine compartment, both good, also two relays right next to the fuses, also good. Pulled out my multi-tester and measured voltage on both power leads. Decided it must be the bulbs since I have voltage at the connector, so I replaced them, and the Low Beams are still out. :shades:

    Anyone have a similar problem, and hopefully a solution?

    Of course I did not realize this new post would end up right next to my reply to the other post, but oh, well.
  • I had something similar. It turned out to be a broken stabilizer link. Part costs around $40 and a half-hour of labor to install.
  • This may sound silly but are the bulbs of the correct replacement type? It's possible that the filament of the low beam is going to the hot side of the high beam, rather than to the ground when the connection is made. Maybe check to make sure the contacts are tight? Just fishing here... :confuse:
  • See my post a while back. Same thing happened to me on my 04. One night the low beams went out - same night!!! High beams fine. I found out there were two fuses, one for each so I figured it was not the fuses. Changed both bulbs and they have worked fine for weeks.

    Perhaps you put in the wrong bulbs or some how broke them as you were putting them in. You cannot touch the bulbs with your hands - use latex gloves and change them often (gets very dirty) and the frst time doing it can be tricky.

    Also check the connection to the bulb and make sure it is actually fully in. Finally make sure hte bulb is seated correctly. Not a big deal but can be tough the first time.
  • I am a weekend mechanic (more skilled than most) who has been asked to look at a friends CRV, not a CRV owner, so I am not familiar with all of the freeze plug locations on the CRV. That said, if your coolant froze, and you are leaking now, you have one of two problems. Either you simply have a freeze plug to replace, which is easy enough except for their locations being hard to reach in the car, or you have a cracked block. Based on where you say the water is coming out, I'm sorry to say that I think a cracked block is more likely. If so, you probably have an oil pan full of water.

    As far as getting the Crank Pulley Nut off, an impact gun will usually do the trick if you can get it in the space, and in a pinch, I have even seen people (and done personally) use the starter to provide the torque. You need a place where the wrench/ratchet is obstructed (in the right direction). You place the tool on the nut/bolt and rotate it until it meets the obstruction, then give the starter a tap. Obviously you want to make sure to disconnect the ignition so it does not actually start.
  • The lights are the correct type, for sure. I happened to be at a parts store Friday and looked at the wiring diagram. (BTW, it's a 2002, not '04)

    Oddly enough, based on the diagram, I should not have had positive voltage on either wire because honda seems to have wired them the opposite of most I've seen before. The "Hot" wire is the middle wire of the connector, and the left/right wires of the connector go to ground through the switch on the column. Of course, that confuses things even more, and I'm not 100% sure that the book is correct. I'll have to get over and take another look at it with this new information, and see if I can make sense out of it.
  • My wife's cr-v is a 2001 front wheel drive ex model. We decided it was time for some maintenance/tune up on the car. Keep in mind I've worked in the repair field years ago and have done a couple frame up restorations on older cars. So replacing plugs, no problem right? Sooo i change the plugs with double platinum plugs. Two days later my wife calls and says the car is stuttering while the brakes are depressed. I change the wires cap and rotor. no improvement. Actually the symptoms get worse. Now the car is vibrating while in park and foot off the brake. I plug in the scanner and of course all I can get is a generic code. Misfire on the #4, #3,and random misfire codes. I then go for the fuel filter (110,000miles). Nothing. I performed vacuum test with a compound meter. The test came back negative for weak vacuum,sticking valves,intake leaks,blown head gasket/low compression. With 17 lbs of pressure all is good . I tested the timing and timing is dead nuts. Checked the fuel injectors for resistance and averaged 14.5 ohms per injector. Tested the injector harness es with a noid light all are receiving a signal. I opted to replace the fuel regulator with no success. So back to the Ignition system I go. Tested the coil and the resistance was off. So I replaced it and, nada. tested the ICM and that seems fine. All though the no codes came up for the charging system I tested the battery and replaced it. When I rev the engine up to 4000rpm and hold it there the check engine light goes out.
    So any suggestions would help here. I just can't understand how adding four new plugs has sent me into this nightmare. Oh yeah I also went back and changed the plugs to the oem style plugs. Thanks ms2112
  • Wasn't there a previous post where the guy had the same problem with both his wife's and his CR-V? I think they were 2000 models. He changed the spark plug wires on both and the problem was solved.
  • I am trying to remove the passenger side headlight assembly...there are 2 obvious screws on top but there is something else holding it in....do I have to remove some plastic cover shrouds to get to whatever it is.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    2005 CRV EX headlamp assembly ...

    image
  • I just bought a 2005 CR-V, SE 4WD. It is very noisy. Is there any way to decrease this road noise? Also there is a whistle/whine noise when I step on the gas. It makes this noise without the ac on and starts get nosier at 35 mph. Does anyone know about this whine? It has been discussed on this site before but it does fit the previously mentioned below 50F problem or the ac on problem. This whine just adds to the the other noises. I am sorry I bought this SUV. My Dodge van is quieter and takes bumps much better. If anyone has any advice it would be most appreicated.
  • I am having the same problem... Between 35-45 mph, I have the same vibration / shudder...Does anyone know what it could be ? It is not the tires...
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