Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

1299300302304305340

Comments

  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    I remember there was a place in ann arbor, michigan that put out a report about the outgassing of materials in cars. here's the link http://www.healthycar.org/home.php to their main website

    The CR-V is here http://www.healthycar.org/vehicle.details.php?getrecno=2383
    pretty good in comparison of all the new vehicles out there.

    The forester, I can see why they aren't doing well healthwise, it had a lot more chemicals outgassing than the CR-V here's the link to the forester
    http://www.healthycar.org/vehicle.details.php?getrecno=2537

    and the older cars do dissipate over time, but the older ones might have more in them. I've noticed that Honda gets better over time in a current model design. but yes we could go along with your theory of "saving bucks" hehehe ;)
  • berriberri Posts: 4,138
    The headlight cover on my 04 CRV is damp and fogged up. Dealer claims it must be cracked, but their is no noticeable damage on the lens or the bumper. It is apparently a $500 repair because you have to replace the whole headlamp assembly. Is this a CRV problem area?
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    My 04 CRV has developed the same problem on the driver side. I obtained a new headlight from eBay for cheap but it's a hassle to change. There are some bolts that are only accessible from under the bumper cover. I may tackle it someday.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    common problem with many different cars. Has to do, as I recall, with the seal of the lamp, not a crack issue.

    MODERATOR

  • berriberri Posts: 4,138
    Do you think drilling a small weep hole at the bottom of the lens cover would help dissipate some of the condensation and fogging? Thanks
  • mjb56mjb56 Posts: 170
    I gave up and took it to the independent garage. They did the labor for $30. And, yes, they basically hit it with a hammer to loosen it up. Unfortunately I didn't have a lift and couldn't get the leverage to loosen it. But since the Honda dealer wanted to charge me $90 to do this I got away with it for less than $40. Yeah, I could have done it cheaper but I saved a few scraped knuckles. Oh well. Now it's done for another 30K mi.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Yeah but would also let it in again :)

    MODERATOR

  • dtstofdtstof Posts: 61
    I had an Accord tail light that had the same problem. I waited until a warm day when the condensation was dried and then applied silicone on the edge. It never had the problem again
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    latex caulk is even less messy but I don't recall if they make such a thing in a CLEAR, sorry. I guess if your tail light seal was conspicuously black you could use black latex caulk and then easily clean it up with water and a rag after squeezing some in there.

    MODERATOR

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Interesting! I didn't know this. So I can add a 6th gear to my 5M '06 CR-V for approximately $300 + labor? That's reasonable, given that I'm planning to keep my car for at least another 8 years.

    Honda uses the same transmission in all the vehicles with K-series engines. Ours has a PTO shaft, but the rest just have a plug there.

    If you look at the tranny blue prints in the shop manual, there is a spacer where the 6th gear would have been. Since the TSX, RSX-S and Si all come with 6 speed trannsmisison, people have been using those stock Honda parts and installing the 6th gear. It started with the Element owners (shorter final drive) and spread to the CR-V's. People report 500 RPM drop on the highway, which translates to about 3-5 mpg boost. As it is, in stock form, driven at the speed limit (65 here) I get 30 mpg. I wouldn't have minded having a 35 mpg SUV. :-)
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    I brought up my battery issues before in my father's 2007 CR-V back in this post where I discussed what I did for the 40k service.

    Specifically I had said:

    ...Lastly, my CR-V has been needed to be jumped a few times in the past couple weeks. Yesterday I was sitting in the car with the engine off, but battery on and listening to the radio for about 30 minutes and the battery died and needed a jump. I thought this meant a weak battery which should be changed under warranty, but their battery test said it was still good (12.58V/449 CCA). So as a result, they wouldn't give me a new battery.


    fussycrvowner had replied and said:

    I had similar issues with my battery. It would only start after I turned the key a few times. When I got home it died completely. I measured the voltage when it wouldn't start and it was down to 10.2 volts. What it turned out to be was a bad cell which was periodically shorting out. The battery has six cells which measure around two volts apiece. Chances are that one of them may be bad and intermittently shorting out. Other possibility is to have them test the charging output of your alternator. It may be putting out low current and not keeping the battery charged. A lot of short trips will drain down the battery as well if it isn't driven enough to replenish what was used in cranking.


    Well, 4+ months later, when the car died both times in one day, we decided it was time to take it back into the dealer again and they just replaced the battery under warranty. The receipt says "Open in Battery." Exact mileage at time of service was 52,610 miles.

    I don't think my father has had problems since then so I'm guessing/hoping that the problem was just the battery and that's that.
  • mike628mike628 Posts: 3
    2004..... 91,000 miles.......Couldnt get rid of the vibration.......Never really liked it anyway, but needed a mini suv for a while......Traded it in for an 09 Civic LX...........our 3rd Civic......Love it.
    So, this is my farewell to the CRV Forum.
    Thanks
    Mike
  • Hi all,
    I'm hoping one or more of you have had this issue because I'm stumped:
    Right headlamp went out. I first checked fuse, it was fine. I then pulled out bulb, it was fine. Does anyone know what else I can check without having to pull wires out? Is the wire from the fuse box to the bulb socket bad?
    Thanks.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Swap the working left with the right headlamp to see if the right is back on. Sometimes the problem is hidden.
  • I actually pulled out the right bulb and tested it on the bench. It lights up no problem. The fuse is ok too but something I observed something else that bothered me: I pulled out the R-HL fuse and used a voltmeter to determine if the hotside of the fuse socket had 12V and it did, then for sh*ts and giggles I measured the cold side of the fuse socket and guess what?? It also had 12V.....what good is the fuse for then? There's something fishy going on with the wiring here.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    I'm reply to a post that detailed the last major service we did back on 11/01/2008 at 40,232 miles in our 2007 CR-V 4WD. We did the oil change recently (maybe 1k miles ago), but didn't do anything else. We had swung by one of our local Honda dealers (Jim Coleman Honda) recently to get the oil change reminder thing reset. The guy there recommended and gave us printouts on their "Schedule 'B' Recommended Service" (@45k, $310) and "Schedule 'C' Recommended Service". (@60k, $469)

    both services include the following items:
    - Replace oil and filter
    - Install BG MOA oil supplement (reduce friction/extend life of engine)
    - Install BG Carbon Fighter 5 (prevents & removes fuel system deposits)
    - Inspect drive belts
    - Inspect radiator and coolant hoses
    - Inspect cooling fan operation
    - Inspect suspension system and mounting bolt torque
    - Inspect exhaust pipes and muffler
    - Inspect emissions controls for proper operation
    - Inspect steering rack and tie rod ends
    - Rotate Tires and inspect for wear and damage
    - Set proper tire pressure
    - check power steering operation
    - Load test battery and clean terminals (don't really need this, just had battery replaced under warranty - posted about it a few posts up)
    - Inspect brake pads and shoes for wear
    - Inspect brake lines and hoses
    - Inspect parking brake adjustment
    - Top off windshield washer fluid
    - Inspect windshield wiper blades and inserts
    - Check PCV system
    - Inspect vehicle lighting
    - lubricate door hinges and seals
    - lubricate hood hinges and latch
    - clean engine compartment
    - inspect drive axle boots and bands
    - reset maintenance indicator
    - road test vehicle

    the differences in the Schedule B/45k service (that the Schedule C/60k service doesn't have) is as follows:
    - Inspect automatic transmission fluid level
    - Inspect valve clearance
    - replace antifreeze (done so early? in my 2004 Accord 4 cylinder, this wasn't done til 120,000 miles)
    - inspect and clean air filter element

    the differences in the Schedule C/60k service (that the Schedule B/45k service doesn't have) is as follows:
    - Replace transmission fluid (again, done so early? My 2004 Accord 4 cylinder had this done at 120k miles too I believe)
    - Inspect transmission linkage
    - Adjust valve clearance as required (again, done so early? this was checked out at 110k miles in my 2004 Accord 4 cylinder)
    - replace spark plugs (again, done so early? this was checked out at 120k miles in my 2004 Accord 4 cylinder)

    - replace air filter element
    - inspect ignition wires
    - inspect distribution cap and rotor
    - inspect idle speed
    - inspect water pump for leaks
    - inspect antifreeze level and protection
    - replace brake fluid (again, done so early? in my 2004 Accord, this was done every 3 years).
    - inspect antilock brake system operation
    - Perform differential service (additional) (not sure what this is all about)

    Any thoughts? for the 30k service on the car, I paid $20 to firestone adn for that price they did a complete vehicle inspection which I believe covered pretty much everything that was listed to be done for that service. and then the air filter & cabin air filter I ordered and installed myself. And the oil change and tire rotation I had done at the dealer using a $30 coupon. so all in all, I think I paid under $100 for everything.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,353
    You can do most of this yourself in about 2 hours. Rotate tries is the longest task, about 20 minutes with a floor jack. O&F is about 15 -20 minutes.

    Regards,
    OW
  • berriberri Posts: 4,138
    There's something fishy going on with the wiring here.

    Well, they were made in Britain weren't they!
  • No, they were actually built in Japan. This is the first problem I've had w/ my CRV in the 4 years I've owned it.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Wow $770 for oil change and oil and fuel additives!!!!!!!!!

    I'd go back and point out in the OWNER's MANUAL that no oil additives are needed, and may void the warranty.

    I would also ask them to show how they check and adjust valve clearance on a K24 engine.

    I would also point out the 105,000 milelife of the spark plugs.
Sign In or Register to comment.