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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair



  • I am also noticing my Honda CRV (2007) is also similar noises in the rear bakres. Noises are noticeable when backing up and making slow sharp turns.

    Curious how was it costs when you had it fixed? I am dreading this.
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    What you describe are symptoms that call for a rear differential service covered under warranty. Honda issued a TSB for the problem. They will change the fluid and refurbish the differential gears.

    Call you dealer and describe the noises you hear.
  • What some folks think is the rear differental may just be the stability contorl applying the rear brakes. In a tight turn, the outside wheels and in particular the front outside wheel turns much faster than the inside wheels. Therefore the stability control may see this as the rear of the vehcile sliding and hterefore applys the brake to the inside rear wheel to correct.

    Try taking het same turn with eth VSA turned off and see if you still hear hte same sound.

    I have a brand new '09 and heard a similar noise but it wasn't present with the VSA turned off. I'm have a better feel for how the VSA respondds and the noises it makes thsi winter.
  • There are times when the clutch pedal squeaks. -When I step on the clutch pedal to shift from first to second and/or second to ...when it is cool outside it is worse
  • tilt wheel problems with honda CR-V, lever won't lock the wheel and it moves while driving

  • Check the voltage at the offending refulator.

    See if there is any corrosion, or an object preventing the window from moving in its tracks.

    It could be as simple as a failed switch, or broken wire.

    Thanks, blueiedgod. You are pointing at the right direct. Finally I got a chance to get a voltage meter and found the wire to the regulator doesn't have any voltage at all.

    Next step I will check the wire, but it seems it is hard to follow the wires. I will try. If anyone has any good hints on how to make checking the wires easier, I would love to hear your advice. Thanks
  • Hi guys...

    I have been puzzled about what happened to my 97 CR-V. I was driving, everything was running perfectly, and then suddenly the engine just died. Boom, just like that. No noises, no other indications of any problems. It just stopped, as if I turned off the ignition. I had to tow it back to my house, where it's been sitting for a while now.

    I don't have a lot of money, but I need to get it fixed. Obviously one of the causes could have been the fuel pump dying. My battery's now dead, but at the time it was fine. The engine turned when I tried to start it but it otherwise just didn't start. What other reasons could have caused the car to die?

    Whatever you guys can tell me will help me decide if I fix it, or junk it. Thanks in advance for your help here.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Start troubleshooting.

    Has the ignition switch recall been performed?

    Are there any outstanding recalls?

    The frist two can be easily asnwered by logging into Honda Owners link on Just have the VIN handy.

    If you get nowhere there.

    Check fuel pressure.

    Is the fuel pump on (you should hear it make noise for 30 seconds or so when you first turn on the ignition.

    Is fule filter clean?

    Is there spark?

    Is distributor working?

    Are contacts worn out?

    Are wires intact?

    Is the ignition coil producing the voltage needed for th spark...

    you don't have to have a lot of money to do the trouble shooting your self. For an engine to run you need Air, Fuel and Spark, all in the right proportions and correct times. Get your self a Helms Honda Shop manual and work from there. Once you isolate the problem, replace the offending part, rather than just throwing parts at it.

    Good luck.
  • Blue,

    Thanks for the input. I got the ignition switch replaced in 2002, right after the recall was announced. Funny thing is, the car behaved just like what the recall indicated - the car just cut out in the middle of traffic, no warning. Only thing was, it never started up again. The recall said the ignition switch outages could be erratic and unpredictable. So we'll see what happens.

    First thing, I need to get a new battery in it. Then, I can do the troubleshooting you described. Problem is I don't have the tools I once had that I could use to fix this myself (my tools were stolen in a burglary). I can do the basic troubleshooting, but if I had to R&R the fuel tank to get to the fuel pump, then I'm screwed.

    And, just for your reference, I have the official Honda shop manual for this model year.
  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123

    first the battery you can get from Autozone, their Duralast batteries are now made by Johnson Controls. Same people who make Honda's batteries, same insides too. But for a lower price, gotta love that. (Honda dealer's are always overpriced). Just make sure to load test the new battery before you install it. To make sure it's not a dud. never know could happen, better to test before.

    Ever think that the ignition switch IS the problem? Just because it was recalled, doesn't mean the new one wouldn't die the same way. Your thoughts/instincts are correct that it acted just like the recall, definitely listen to them, that's probably where you should start first. Since you have the service manual, then you can use that to diagnose with a multimeter the ignition switch. A multimeter, if you don't have one, is like $3.99 at harbor freight.
  • Hello: About a month ago I was rear-ended and had the back door replaced by a body shop. Now the door open indicator and trunk light flicker when going over bumps. Rather than going back to the body shop I would like to replace the switch myself - I have seen the service bulletins addressing the issue. How hard is the switch to get to?
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    Perhaps the door needs adjusting. It may not be closing tightly enough and not making proper contact with the switch. Check this out before investigating the switch itself.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    I experienced timing belt broken and engine died right away. Did you check is that a belt or chain?
  • I was having the same problem. And I noticed that the screws in the door latch were loose. I could never get them to stay tight. I would have to tighten them about every 2 or 3 weeks.

    I had the CRV for 8 months and sold it last night - too many problems.
  • I waited... and waited until my 1st oil change - relying on the indicater, and trusting the dealership recommendation.
    When it was finally time for the oil change, I did not have it changed at the dealership, I had it done closer to home.

    Question: Is the indicator system/light still accurate at this point or would the dealer have changed it now that the factory-oil is gone?

    After years of 3000 miles then 5000 miles for each change - I am anxious!
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,245
    Make sure you reset the indicator to read 100% oil life. The indicator will then count down to the next oil change.

    The reset procedure is in the manual.

  • mark19mark19 Posts: 123
    Actually a couple owners with the oil life indicator never had it come on. They had gone about 10-12,000 miles until the dealer was called upon and found that the indicator was defective. lol Not that I'm trying to laugh too hard.

    But if you're anxious and don't want to wait, why should you have to? There is nothing or anyone holding a gun to your head forcing you to wait. You want to change your oil at 5000 miles, then change it.

    When did people become controlled by a computer? IT's JUST OIL PEOPLE! If it makes you happy, change it early! :)
  • I have not been able to remove the rear left and right head restraints..The center one has the button you press, the other two in the rear do not....I need to install new seat covers and have to remove the head restaints to accomplish...Has anyone an answer to my dilemma...
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I have not been able to remove the rear left and right head restraints..The center one has the button you press, the other two in the rear do not....I need to install new seat covers and have to remove the head restaints to accomplish...Has anyone an answer to my dilemma...

    I think the bigger question is whether the seat covers are side air bag friendly. If the seat covers are not desined to accomodate the exploding side airbags, which are mounted on the side of the seatback, then you are just asking for trouble, big trouble!!!

    I don't have the 2010 OWNER's MANUAL, but, I highly doubt that it does not say how to remove the headrests. How else are you going to line up the seats for the bed feature?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,912
    Manual pic posted here.
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