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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair



  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,006
    I'd wait for the sensor, but I got over the "every 3,000 miles" stuff a couple of decades ago. My intervals are 5 to 7,500 miles on my (non-Honda) rides. I don't drive many miles but I drive them forever.

    One thing that may interest you would be to get an oil analysis done. They cost about $25 and the lab should tell you how much useful life your oil has, and you can compare that to the oil indicator.

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • I have a 2009 Honda CRV EX-L without navigation. I bought a Garmin GPS and was wondering what would be the best mount for the GPS ? I was leaning toward the Garmin friction dash mount that forms to the dash, however I am not sure it will fit or stay on the dash because it is not smooth. Does anyone have any experience with this ? Please advise.
  • I have a 17 incher on my 2010 CR-V and tried the bean bag on top of the dash but it raddled too much for my taste, so I used the included round adhesive disk that came with my Magellan and stuck it on the driver side door close to the front window (Opposite to the side view mirror) on the smooth part, and making sure it does not get hit when closing the door. This way its closer to the driver and does not get in the way of a clear front view.

    Hope I explained it well enough ;)
  • Whoops, I meant 7 inch not 17 :blush:
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    A bean bag mount works well for a standard size GPS device. It's also easy to store out of sight when appropriate. Mine never moves and is silent.

    I guess some people get the suction cup method to work, but I've seen too many failures to have any confidence in it.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    I'm also not keen on the suction mount because it leaves a tell-tale mark on the windshield which tells thieves you have a removable GPS. I use a friction mount and that seems to be the best compromise for me.


  • oldcemoldcem Posts: 309
    I've got a Garmin 255 equipped with the Garmin beanbag mount. It stays put on the top of my CR-V's dash just fine.

  • In most cars I've owned, I find that when I've selected floor & dash vents, that hte floor vents are always a little hotter than hte air out of the dash vents. I believe this is because the length of the ducts are shorter to the floor vents, so the air is not cooeld off as much. I think the mix box may also bais warm air towards the floor. Most people's feet are colder than their upper body, so I think more warm air is intentionally directed that way. But again, it's probably mostly due to the length opf ducts.

    Try putting the fan on a lower setting and set the heat to about 1/4. You'll feel some warm air to the floor, but cool air to the dash vents. EVERY car I've ever owned si like this, so I assume it's intented ot be this way... and I don;t mind, because again, my feet get colder than my upper body when I have a coat on. Also the floor gets wet and benfits from warm air even in mild weather.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I don't know what blueed is talking about, any honda I've ever had when you select floor and face, it's just directing the airflow where you want it to go regardless of temperature. So no it's not a special "feature" at all

    I agree with Mr. Shiftright, you need to either go to another dealership who knows what they're talking about and you need to check other CRV's.. That's not correct at all.

    The failure is probably in the hvac box, where the temperature blend door is, allowing the hot air to reach the floor vents, but not able to reach the vent/face air blend door.

    You should select between different modes and temps to see if you can hear the door moving, while you're in the footwell area, listening carefully. I bet you won't hear movement correctly when you select the face/floor mode.

    Just because you don't feel it does not mean it is not there. Get a digital themometer with 2 thermocouples, or 2 decent digital thermometers, and verify for your self. Just make sure you set the temperature dial at less than "full blast heat"

    I am surprized the OWNER's MANUAL does not explain this.

    Another peculiarity with Honda HVAC system is that the side face vents will take allow some of the outside air in, even if the driver selected "recirc" and need to be closed manually to completely seal off the car from the outside.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    My CRV blows hot out of both vents. I seem to recall GM used to have a setting called bi-level years back that actually did blow cooler out of the dash vents. The concept was that with the sun beating on you it made sense to have the vents blow cooler up high and warmer down by your feet. As I recall, it actually worked pretty well.

    If I am not mistaken, GM's Bi0:ev is the same as Honda's "face/feet"
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    Is there anything wrong by changing to 10W30? I don't think so.

    You may not think so, but people who have used "better" oils have reported higher incidents of VTEC solenoid failure.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    What happens when raining, snowing, cloudy, overcast and at night?

    The automatic dual climate control systems on Acuras use GPS signal to determine which side of the car is exposed to the sun during the day and lowers the temperature on that side. It does not account for clouds, and turns off at night.
  • nayaknayak Posts: 15

    My first oil change came up at about 10K miles. And now the CRV maintenance system is stating that I need to go for the next service (at 10%). According to the Honda service advisor, this service should be the "B" service which costs about $120. Service "B" includes the following:
    1. Replace engine oil anf filter
    2. Inspect Front and Rear Brakes
    3. Check Parking Brake Adjustment
    4. Inspect the following:
    a) Tie Rod Ends, Steering Gear Box, and Boots
    b) Suspension Components
    c) Driveshaft Boots
    d) Brake Hoses and Lines (including ABS)
    e) All Fluid Levels and condition of fluids
    f) Exhaust System
    g) Fuel Lines and Connections.

    Do you guys recommend going for the B service or just do a regular oil/filter change and tire rotation (I think they throw that in w/oil change)? If I can just do the regular oil/filter change and tire rotation for now, when do you think I should do a major maintenance?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,413
    That's a lot of money to pay someone to lift a car up and shine a flashlight around.

    I'd just do the oil and filter and have you or someone else check the fluids.


  • A competent local idependan shop should prefrm those other items for free with an oil change. Why? Because maybe 10% of the time they inspect a vehcile, they discover an issue. Not only is that good for the customer to discover a problem early, it provides additonal business.
  • I have a brand new 2010 CR-V. I have been having fun driving it but I am having a hard time adjusting to the computerized gauges and read-outs. I notice that my temperature gauge is consistently reading at 2 notches below the the cooler side. The owners manual says that the gauge should read in the middle. I am assuming that they mean the "middle range" and to the cooler side would be OK. But now I am not sure if my assumption is correct. I plan on calling the dealer this afternoon but I would like some informed opinions before talking to the service tech.

    On another note. I had a Subaru before this car. The Subaru's AWD system was great in snow. I got a chance to test out the CR-V's AWD since we got a significant amount of snow over the last few days. The car is remarkably stable and responsive, so I am very pleased.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I don't have the 2010 OWNER's MANUAL, but the 2005's says that as long as the gauge stays between the blue (too cold) and red (too hot) zones it is fine.

    The gauges in many modern cars are buffered, and as you said "computerized." If you want to get the accurate and up-to-date information, try ScanGauge. It plugs into the OBDII port and you can set it up to read out whatever information the computer receives.

    Accordging to scangauge the engine coolant temperature fluctuates between 177°F and 190°F, but the water temperature gaues in the dash does not reflect those changes, ever.

    If you want to have fun with the CR-V, go to a snow covered parking lot, away from poles, people and cars. Turn off the VSC. Put the vehicle in 1st gear. Turn the steering wheel to one side to almost full lock. And jab the gas pedal...

    The front wheels will slip, sending the power to the back, and will turn the CR-V into a "drifto machine"
  • I have noticed the same temperature gauge reading - to the left of center, two notches!
    Seems to me that the vehicle takes longer to start to warm up - at least longer than any other car/CRV I have had. And that means that the car interior is cooler for a longer time. And now that the cool season is upon me, the mpg seems to have dropped off more than I would have expected. That would be consistent with the engine "throttle" being too wide.
    Could it be a defective thermostat?

    When I take in in for its first oil change I will ask the dealer, but I would be interested in sharing what we - and others - find out.

    I do really like the car!
  • Plum Tern,I called the dealer and they told me that the gauges are set to a notch or so under the middle. I don't know if that is right or not, so I would be interested in hearing what your dealer says when you bring your car in for servicing. Unlike your car,my CR-V seems to warm up pretty fast and the interior feels very toasty (presently it is about 20 degrees out). I have driven about 700 miles so far and the mpg seems to be around 24 or 25. That is mostly highway and about 30% around town.I think that number is pretty good considering that the car was in it's break-in period.

    Let me know how you make out at the dealer. I really like this car also!
  • Baydrive
    Thanks for the perspective.
    I wll not get to the dealer for an oil change and gauge check until January, so please "standy by."
    A longer drive this weekend may clarify mpg issues as well.
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