Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

1316317319321322340

Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,402
    You should really be working with a repair manual to get all the steps, diagrams and special tools that you might need or might need to improvise. The repair manual is a good way to organize your "attack" on the problem and also insure your own safety.

    With parts, you can order a "clutch kit" which should contain pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bushing, and throwout bearing and if you're lucky, a clutch alignment tool (cheap thing made out of wood). If there is no alignment tool, buy one.

    So to summarize:

    repair manual
    clutch kit
    car jack preferably a floor jack that can go up high enough.
    jack stands
    transmission jack
    proper tools (extensions, pilot bushing extractor, alignment tool)
    safety goggles

    NOTE: you will be asked to inspect the flywheel for gouging, burning, and cracks. Please do so and be prepared to remove it if it doesn't look good---very important to ward off "clutch chatter".

    MODERATOR

  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    my 97 crv awd with 148,000 miles just started to drip oil. oil was changed 2 weeks ago, put in valvoline for hi mileage vehicle 30w, yesterday i saw an oil stain on my white painted driveway under the crv. Under the hood i see lots of black grease on engine, but oil on ground is fresh looking clean oil. Dipstick shows oil just a hair below full indicator when cold, and a hair above when hot. Oil filter looks dry, so leak not there, but underside of engine looks wet around crankcase and other lower parts. It looks a lot wetter than what i would expect for the possible 1/16 qt. approx i see low on cold dipstick, so if i had not checked dipstick after oil change i would suspect that it was overfilled, but dipstick looked perfect after oil change. Crv has been driven only about 300 miles since oil change. When my dipstick shows low enough to add, would it possibly fix this problem by adding a good oil leak sealer product? Also when a small slow leak like this first shows up, is it likely to become a complete blowout soon and cause all oil to blow out in one swift go? or is it likely to stay a small slow leak? This vehicle has never lost oil between changes, since i read on another post honda spec allows up to 1 qt every 1000 miles, are small leaks ok to live with as long as i make sure i keep level good? And more important is it likely to stay a slow leak? Or will it become a complete blowout on my wifes next 50 mile expressway drive?
  • Some times oil will get inside the frame when changing the oil filter. It should stop after it has drained out and dried up. This has happened to me on several occasions. TOP CAT
  • barryzbarryz Posts: 43
    Maybe thats what it is, it had oil all the way to full line after sitting all night and the oil change was at walmart. probably a hack who spilled a lot, that filter is in a hard to reach place, even on a lift. Thanks for replying, i hope its something that simple, the reason we drive a 13 year old crv is poverty, i need this car to last, got it from origonal owner 5 years ago with 120,000 on it, had proof of timing belt and water pump at 105000 and we got a recall letter from honda 4years ago covering all 97's with less than 150000 on them about emission system, honda did a complete tune up free as part of that, new plugs, wires, etc, all maintenance up to date, we need this to be a false alarm.Pray for us.
  • Lately our 2001 CRV has been making a humming or groaning sound upon acceleration at 50 or more mph. What could this be? It is not loud, but noticable. No fluids appear to be leaking or anything.
  • Take it back to W-M and have them look for the leak. At the very least they will wipe off all the excess oil that they should have in the beginning. Make sure they wipe off the drain plug and then check to make sure it is dry later. Hopefully the dripping will stop but, Honda's have a rep for weak oil pan drain threads. Good luck.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I highly doubt that Walmart replaced the SINGLE USE aluminum crush washer. What they do is just tighten the plug, which eventually strip the threads on the pan and require oil pan replacement, or thread repair...

    If cost savings is the main reason for taking it to Walmart, change the oil your self. The oil can be found for Free After Rebate, so are filters. The crush washers are $0.25 at the dealer, $0.10 at auto parts stores.

    CR-V is high enough that it does not require lifting to get under it (given that the person has not been consuming lots and lots of beer in the last 10-20 years).

    I would not use any of those "oil leak sealers" as they are nothing more than snake oils.
  • Hi,

    My wife bumped 2008 Honda CRV into a lamp post while backing out. As a result, the panel between the rear door and bumper has partially come out. Now I see a visible gap next to the bumper, and overlapping panels behind the rear door.

    Is this something I can attempt to fix myself, or do I need to go to a body shop? Does anyone have instructions on fitting panels? TIA.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,402
    Depends on whether the panel is actually damaged or if, hopefully, just some anchor came loose and needs to be refastened. You might crawl under there and scope it out. If the panel has been bent or distorted, or the bumper frame underneath badly bent, you may need some hydraulic power to fix that.

    MODERATOR

  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    My father bought his 2007 AWD EX-L CR-V w/ Navigation new in Spring 2007. We're now approaching three years of ownership and the car is now a little over 73,390 miles. I try to handle the maintenance in it for him.

    I'm replying to an older post of mine from 7/21/2009 when my dad's CR-V was at 62553 miles. In that post, I was wondering about what I should do next. Since then, at 63,662 miles, I had the oil change done along with a battery test and 19pt inspection (where everything was fine) all from the dealer for $30 even. A tire rotation for $19.95 was recommended (something I wouldn't do, I'll explain why below) along with the air filter/pollen filter for $154.95 (something else I woudn't pay them to do) and trans service for $90 (something I'm not sure about in general ).

    I've been trying to take care of the maintenance myself as much as I can, and wherever possible, cutting corners to keep the costs down.

    Unfortunately, my I believe dad just killed my "not-overpaying" streak by taking the car in for service yesterday to the dealer and paying about $250 to get the air filter, cabin air filter, differential service and oil change done. the car was at 73,390 miles at the time of service.

    I would have done the cabin air filter and the air filter myself for I think around $40 total (the cost of the filters). I usually either order from www.handa-accessories.com/ or get the dealer to match the price. I know the filters were supposed to be changed at 60k so we were late on that.

    I thought I saw on the Edmunds Maintenance Guide that the differential service is done at 90k, and should be pretty cheap. I think I've read that it's supposed to cost less than $20 to do (it's easier than engine oil to change right?). What are the details on this? I believe this is the first time we've dealt with this.

    I'm not sure if the detailed inspection that the 60k service covers was done too as part of the $250 my dad paid, but usually I pay $20 to firestone and I think that covers everything.

    Oil change is something I know I should be able to do myself but I still haven't gotten around to learning how to do it. I think I've been paying $25ish on average to have dealer do it. Sometimes it includes a tire rotation, but since I had all 4 of my tires replaced at walmart back in 2009 (w/ 4 Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza 225/65R17 tires, on or around 57,650 miles) I get my tires rotated and balanced for free now every so many miles (last time this was done was on 12/30/2009 when car was at 71609 miles, which I know is a long time to go w/out a tire rotation or balance).

    The one last thing I'm confused about is the Trans service (89.95) that was originally recommended at the 63,662 visit. According to the Edmunds maintenance, this is done at 120k.

    sorry for the long post but there's a lot I'm wondering. I'm hoping the info shared will help other CR-V owners too.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    blueiedgod, in your suggestions to ohbaobei's post on preparing for winter (ohbaobei, "Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair" #6391, 27 Sep 2009 12:56 pm#MSG6390) you said the following:


    Replace the Automatic Transission fluid if you have 30,000 miles on it.

    Replace the Rear differential fluid.


    I thought the transmission fluid was good for 120k miles and the rear diffential fluid
    didn't have to be done til 90k miles?

    Also, thanks for the heads up on the:

    Bleed the brakes and replace the brake fluid every 3 years, regardless of mileage.

    Replace the Power steering fluid every 3 years.


    The 2007 AWD Honda CR-V my dad bought new in Spring 2007 is approaching 3 years. We'll look into these services soon. The car's at a little over 73,390 miles now
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    Mr. Shiftright, I saw that for your 20k service in your 2008 CR-V, you said you "saved about $90." Is that from the $220 you were originally quoted for the service? Meaning the $130 covered the dealer doing oil change and tire rotation and you yourself did the filters? That still seems like quite a bit.

    At our local honda dealers, I usually pay $25-30ish for the oil change and it often includes a tire rotation along with an inspection (I believe a 19pt). For the filters, I'll usually buy them from handa-accessories.com or get a local dealer to match their price (so I can save on shipping). Then I'll do them myself. The filters are around $40 I think.

    You listed out all the things they were going to inspect at 20k:

    2. Inspect Front and Rear Brakes
    3. Check Parking Brake Adjustment
    4. Inspect the following:
    a) Tie Rod Ends, Steering Gear Box, and Boots
    b) Suspension Components
    c) Driveshaft Boots
    d) Brake Hoses and Lines (including ABS)
    e) All Fluid Levels and condition of fluids
    f) Exhaust System
    g) Fuel Lines and Connections.


    I mentioned the inspection that I usually get done by the dealer w/ an oil change depending on the coupon I have at the time. The other place I frequently go to is Firestone. They usually inspect for free or for $20 they do a in depth inspection that I believe covers everything that the in-depth 30k service requires.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    "...After going thro old posts it looked like earlier CR-V,s needed the differential fluid replaced at a much sooner mileage than the OWNERS manual stated.."

    Is this case with later CR-V's?

    My father has the 2007 AWD CR-V and I'm not sure what the manual says, but Edmunds Maintenance site (http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/select.html) says that it has to be done at 90k for our car. However the dealer did just do it at 73,390k
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    I'm planning on doing an oil analysis for the Mobil 1 oil I'm about to change after almost 10k miles. I was recommended to try Blackstone Laboratories on my.is. Here's the post w/ the recommendation from knightshade http://my.is/forums/f139/oil-changes-405385/#post6112627
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Posts: 233
    This is interesting.. I always thought if a car had a timing chain you just never worried about it. I'm not sure what my dad's 2007 AWD CR-V has so I'll look into it. The car's at only a little over 73,390 so I don't think I need to worry much about it.

    But my sister is now driving the 2004 I4 Accord that I purchased back in April 2004 new. The car is at 151481 miles and I believe has a timing chain. I've never done anything with it though.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    blueiedgod, in your suggestions to ohbaobei's post on preparing for winter (ohbaobei, "Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair" #6391, 27 Sep 2009 12:56 pm#MSG6390) you said the following:


    Replace the Automatic Transission fluid if you have 30,000 miles on it.

    Replace the Rear differential fluid.

    I thought the transmission fluid was good for 120k miles and the rear diffential fluid
    didn't have to be done til 90k miles?

    Also, thanks for the heads up on the:

    Bleed the brakes and replace the brake fluid every 3 years, regardless of mileage.

    Replace the Power steering fluid every 3 years.

    The 2007 AWD Honda CR-V my dad bought new in Spring 2007 is approaching 3 years. We'll look into these services soon. The car's at a little over 73,390 miles now


    The manual for 2007 may not have any scheduled services listed, since they are all programmed into the Maintenance Minder system .

    Honda usually has two schedules, Normal and Severe, and I would verture to state that there are probably 5 people in the whole US of A who fall under the Normal schedule. Everyone else is under Severe schedule.

    I would go by the codes given by the Mainternance Minder system on the CR-V. However, premature oil changes and subsequent resetting of the maintenance minder system may reset to Transmission and Differential fluid reminders.

    As I would alwsy say, Read The Fine Manual. Edmunds' guide is not factory manual.
  • I got in my 2004 CRV today and everything was fine. I did a quick stop and when I put my car into drive the light was not there. I went down all the gears and every other light came on. Is it possible for a bulb to burn out in the "gear box"?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I got in my 2004 CRV today and everything was fine. I did a quick stop and when I put my car into drive the light was not there. I went down all the gears and every other light came on. Is it possible for a bulb to burn out in the "gear box"?

    Yes, the bulbs in the gear selector indicator can burn out. It is also the Check Transmission Light. Refer to the Owner's Manual what the blinks mean.

    However, a burnt out bulbs would preclude you from knowing if there is a problem with transmission, since you will not see it blinking.

    You need to remove the gauge cluster to replace the bulb in the back of it. The bulbs itself is probably under $5 at the dealer's parts counter.

    My gauge cluster does not have gear indicators, and the shifter is on the floor... oh and there are 3 pedals on the floor :P
  • Thank you!

    Interestingly enough all the other lights on the dash come on when I turn on the car. So I think it might just be the bulb on the gear box. Its a relief to know its not some insane thing - I can handle a dead bulb. Especially since this has been the year of bulb replacement on my crv.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    I can handle a dead bulb. Especially since this has been the year of bulb replacement on my crv.

    What I was trying to say is that you need to replace the bulb, since the "D" light is also the trouble indicator for the transmission. If the bulb is out, you will not not know if there is a minor problem with the transmission, until you are straded by the side of the road and need a $3000 transmission replacement.
Sign In or Register to comment.