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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have a 2004 CRV-EX, AWD with 105,000 miles. I have two problems that may or may not be related. First, at highway speeds (60 mph+) there is a severe steering vibration and the whole front end shudders when I brake hard. The steering wheel actually pulsates rapidly from left to right. My first thought was warped rotors so I replaced all four and installed new ceramic pads. The tires are fairly new and they were recently balanced and rotated. I torqued the lugs nuts to 80 lb ft. Second, When accelerating from a stopped positon, there is a shuddering felt and heard from the left front wheel. It does this during rapid acceleration or when on starting off uphill. It only lasts for 2 to 3 seconds and then suddenly disappears. My Haynes repair manual suggests that the CV joint may be causing this while the vibration may be caused by the hub bearing. I've never tackled either of these two jobs myself. Has anyone ever experienced these two problems or have any advice or suggestions? Thanks!
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    My 04 has the vibration while braking as well but I'm pretty sure the rotors needed to be replaced, they are the originals (130K miles) and were only turned once.

    Regarding shuddering and the sound when accelerating, I had a broken motor mount on the driver's side, a somewhat common thing on CRV's I learned here. It caused a similar sound. The mount is a big hunk of steel just behind the battery, you may be able to see a crack or some other sign of a break. I would hear a groaning sound when accelerating, dealer replaced for about $160. That may be something to look at.

    Please post back on the vibration when resolved please, we are all guilty of posting our problems sometime but not the fix. Thanks
  • nolajnolaj Posts: 4
    I have a 00' crv-lx and i was driving and the light on the dash that says check came on i looked in the owner's manual and it says that it something with emissions. i know i am needing an oil change could this be the issue? Some one also said that changing the transmission fluid is at the same time changing the differential fluid is that a correct statment? the car currently has 156,000 miles on it.

    thanks
  • No I don't think any of those statements are correct.

    Since you have your owner's manual, it should tell you exactly at what periodic mileages fluids should be changed.

    The check engine light does have to do with emissions, but oil changes have nothing to do with the light going on. You'll have to have the car scanned and trouble codes read, to know what's going on. It could be something quite simple. Often, Autozone will scan the car for free, for you. If you get a code #, come back and tell us what it is.

    In the meantime, read over the service schedules for your car.
  • My check engine light has come on every 10k miles or so since it was new. 104,000 now. I followed the owner's manual to reset it each time.

    My owner's manual shows that the Auto transmission fluid should be changed twice as often as the rear diff after 60k miles
  • Problems solved!!
    After checking absolutely every thing I could for wear, ie: CV joints, tie rod ends, ball joints, wheel bearings, etc, I was down to checking the runout on the new rotors. Of course, I don't have a dial indicator. I remembered that my Chevrolet manual says to seat new brake pads by successive hard braking maneuvers. It actually gave the speed to get up to and how many seconds to stop the vehicle. Well, I went out and really got my CR-V brake linings smoking. I let them cool and drove it again, problem solved!

    The shuddering when starting off especially on a hill, I'm chalking up to normal operation...This is a quote from what I found on the Internet.. "Later Model CR-Vs equipped with automatic transmissions also have a lockup torque converter and Grade Logic program which aids the CR-V when climbing steep inclines by keeping the transmission in the lower gear." I think that it I was hearing was a combination of the Grade Logic program at work as well as the real wheels engaging due to the AWD system.
  • Had the same problem, pulled the driver side switch, WD 40, replaced, everything works fine. I guess I will replace both switches. Thanks theriver, you saved me some money for sure.
  • not only did I replace both switches but I bought a few extra (I think they were 4 or 5 dollars each) and stuck them in the glove compartment since it is more work to drive the dealer (ironically, they don't seem to stock many). I think what happens is if you shut the door hard and the seat belt catches it snaps the plastic.

    One of the cheapest parts I have ever bought - My accord has a similar button, but that has never broken and the car is much older - must be the weight of the door and the way the seatbelt retracks.
  • I thought I'd share a couple of interesting things I've discovered related to vibration and noises related ot winter driving:

    1) The traction control system activates the ABS, which causes some vibration when accelrating from a stop or up a hill. The yellow "trianlge" will appear o nteh dash when thsi si happening.

    2) Frozen snow and slush can accumulate on the underside of the vehcile in some interesting places causing some realy, really disturbing and annoying noises as follows:
    a) Slush can accumulate around the right rea engine mount causing engine vibration at low RPM's. This almost sounds like you have a bad exhaust leak.
    b) Slush can build-up around the pilot shaft. This chuck of ice will break loose upon hitting a large bump, but is trapped above the pilot shaft. This material will make rattling sounds as different speeds. It sounds a little like a loose heat shield.

    You cna jsut ignoire it as it shouldn't hurt anything, it get a long sice scraper and knock it loose. the ice around the pilot shaft might be hard to knock loose without driving up on ramps or crawling part way under the vechile.

    The comical thing... If I had taken it to a dealer, the car might have sat in a warm service bay and the ice melted, or they would have knocked off the ice when they inpected it.
  • markk1markk1 Posts: 30
    I have a new 2010 CRV that I've had for about 3 months. Maybe once every week or two when i turn the engine on I hear an odd sound from about where the key is. It is difficult to describe but it is sort of like crumpling a newspaper or little like the sound you get when you pull clothing from the dryer apart in the winter. it lasts a couple of seconds while I'm turning the key to start the car (on position). I have been unable to detect a pattern to this, I'll ask the dealer about it on my first service but unless it starts happening more they are very unlikely to hear it.

    Has anyone had this? it has also occurred to me that perhaps it is suppose to make that sound under some condition
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    My check engine light has come on every 10k miles or so since it was new. 104,000 now. I followed the owner's manual to reset it each time.

    Mainternance required and Check Engine light are two different things.
  • Hello: I think this has to do with changing the rear differential fluid but not sure. I drove through some deep snow recently up to the underbody. Since then, I have a metallic scraping noise from the right rear wheel when making right turns at speeds faster than 10MPH. I have been religious about changing the rear fluid every 15-20K miles. Also getting that burning rubber smell from the rear end by the muffler. Could I have gotten water in somewhere it shouldn't have or do I just need to replace the rear fluid and burnish the gears? The dealer stated that they do not flush the rear end on CR-Vs. I think they need to read their service bulletins regarding the noises.
  • vmrgvmrg Posts: 9
    Hi,

    This is my first post and I hope it is not a stupid one. I just bought a CR-V LX and there is a small LED light on radio for anti theft that keeps blinking. Is it supposed to blink like that all the time? I did not see anything about it in the owner's manual.
  • Yes, it is supposed to blink all the time. It's normal.
  • therivertheriver Posts: 67
    04 with 100 K

    Car was hesitating when starting - made an appointment to get it looked at. Two days before appoint, car would not start. Towed to garage. He replaces starter then says there is a noise, thinks it could be flywheel. He asks if we heard noises - none that i can recall.

    Any thoughts on this. Garage is reputable completely and they are looking as I write this.
  • therivertheriver Posts: 67
    just got a call - the replacement starter was making th enoise. Put another starter in - problem solved.

    I did not see much in the way of starter issues on the board. Is this unusual
  • therivertheriver Posts: 67
    Recently, the little clip that holds the visor broke (the one next to the rear view mirror).

    I see what looks like a slot on the back of the clip (facing the window). It looks like the kind of slot that you stick a small screwdriver in and snap off and snap a new one on. Is that what it is or is there some screw within the slot I am not seeing.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Posts: 2,803
    It will depend on the generation, but generally, there should be a bolt or a screw under the cap.
  • I took it in to the dealer for diagnosis. They said the differential sounded OK but the noise could be from rust on the brake backing plates. They cleaned them but the noise is still there. Sounds like a metal rubbing noise from the rear when making sharp turns around 20MPH. Could this just be a normal gear noise from the wheels rotating at different speeds? :confuse:
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,641
    Oh well, noise on sharp turns could be a wheel bearing also. This could cause a slight shift in the wheel position.
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