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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair



  • zeenzeen Posts: 391
    Can't think of one. What is curious is that the bulbs are on when I have it set in the low beam position. If the low beam fuses were blown, would I get any light in the low beam position? What I'm getting is high beams in both positions. Could be the bulbs I suppose. They are the blue tint made in China. I guess I'll have to pout the originals back in (which still work) and see what happens. Royal pain though.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Sounds like the best idea tho at this point. If they work as before, then u know it is the new bulbs.

    While more expensive than OEM, have you tried Sylvania Silverstars? They are not blue, but many blues are gimmick anyway just painted blue and have less life.

    SS come with a one year wty, and keep your bill as more than once I have had to replace them. Be very careful to not touch the glass with anything, your fingers, the edge of the opening etc, as this will create a hot spot and cause them to blow even faster still.

    In some cars it is a pain to change, but Silverstars do work noticeably better.

    First though I would make sure your old ones are working properly...or better still, have the Siverstars there to try when u remove the ones in there now.
  • zeenzeen Posts: 391
    Thanks for your advice on all counts.
  • ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    hey guys first off i bought my 2010 crv 2wd automatic in san jose,ca 10

    months ago with 11 miles on it. i broke it in correctly and everything.

    about the 4th month in the powersteering started to leak and i brought it in

    and the honda dealership replaced it under warranty and replace the whole powersteering system.

    i know how much power and torque the crv has and now it does accelerate as quick and lost tons of power and they say its normal what can i do?

    i was thinking about putting it on a dyno and showing them.

    any help is greatly appeciated please and thank you
  • crvdude1crvdude1 Posts: 47
    Honda Service Bulletin 10-077, November 30,2010. Applies To: 2010-2011

    "Intermittent low power during acceleration"

    It is an ECM software upgrade. I asked them to do it during the 10k service.
    It is way better now. :)
  • Hello motoguy128,

    Thanks for you post. I have just discovered the same rattling noise under my 2010 Honda CRV. It is quite worrisome. I thought it was a differential problem, transmission or any other costly repair. I looked under the car and there is quite an accumulation of ice. We recently had heavy winter rain in our part of Quebec. It was followed by a flash freeze during the night. When I started the car in the morning, I heard clunking sound. Warmer weather is forecasted for the next few days so I hope the problem goes away !
  • Hi Karen,
    I am a life long Honda owner. We currently own two CRVs (2007 and 2010).
    The 2007 (built in Japan) had the rear differential problem and WE had to pay for it to be fixed! It did the vibrating thing whenever we backed up and turned the wheel right from the get go, brought it in several months later and the dealer said we had to get it fixed. Since then though no problems with that car. The 2010 has been terrible! The battery went dead (not our fault) after 200 miles and we just had the starter replaced! It is brand new! The dealer paid for both, but I buy Honda to NOT have to go through this. Honda has probably lost me (a 25 year fan) as a customer.
  • lzclzc Posts: 483
    >It did the vibrating thing whenever we backed up and turned the wheel right <<

    I've got that. What was the fix? Expensive? Thanks.
  • My 2003 CRV airbag deployed and broke window and bent hood. I had it fixed. Radiator, hood and window replaced along with some of the plastic bumper trim. Since got back, there are times when driving a noise will start. Sounds like blowing a thin piece of paper between your lips. It comes and goes. Most of time happens over 60 MPH but has happened at lower speeds. Has happened with air conditioner on or off, calm day or windy day. Noise will stop and not occur for few days and then start again. It is hard to pinpoint the location other than it does come from the front of the car. Anyone got any ideas what may be causing this
  • I have Michelin HydroEdge. Love them, got them on 3 vehicles over the years. Travel for business about 35K miles a year and probably another 10K personal, many times in hard rain and snow, HydroEdge tires have performed very well for me.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,353
    Thanks for the info. Michelin makes great tires and yours are #3 on the Passenger All Season category on

  • dadschumdadschum Posts: 3
    I live in New England and am due to take my Honda in for service within the next week. The maintenance minder says it requires service level B1 at this time. The only service I have had done on this car so far has either been service levels A1 or B1, alternately. However, I did have new tires put on last November at about the 36,000 mile mark (Nokian tires) as the original tires and the ones Honda tried to sell me were crap. I also had rear brakes pads replaced and the rotors resurfaced last June.

    My question is, should anything else be done to the car now besides service level B1? Does it need anything else? And I don't want the Honda dealership, which is where I take it for service, trying to sell me anything I don't need. I want to go in there informed and confident in what I need at this time.

    Please let me know if you have any questions and thanks for your help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,404
    Just do what the book tells you to do, and be sure to match the list in the book with what the dealer is trying to sell you. So if the dealer recommends such things as "fuel injector" cleaning, you know that's "padding" because it's not in the book. You need to go over this beforehand with the service writer so that they don't slip in any "extras" on you. Study your owner's manual before you go.


  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,623
    Which Nokian model did you get?

    I put Nokian WRs on my '02 CR-V in early '06... Those last 27K miles I owned it were the best I had.. They transformed the ride and handling...

    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • dadschumdadschum Posts: 3
    they are Nokian WRG2's. I know nothing about tires except that I thought the Continentals that came with the car should not have all gone bad at the same time. Yes, all 4 of them needed to be replaced at 36K miles and a car just a bit over 3 years old. I was told the original tires were crap. So the tire place I deal with recommended the Nokian's especially the New England weather.
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,353
    Go to and learn.

  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 27,623
    I think the WRG2 is the updated version of the WR (latest and greatest)..

    What I like about them with the CR-V, is not only did I get wintertire-like snow traction, they were better handling dry-road tires than any of the crappy OEM tires that Honda uses.... In the size my CR-V used (205/70-15), they were H-Rated, vs the S-rated tires that came on it..

    It was a win-win... except for the price..... shewwww (still, worth it).

    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,353
    The 245/70 Kumho Road Ventures make the '08 handle like a Corvette. (The tire mechanic worried a little about the fit but no problem at all.)

    The steering is already phenomenal but I've got to thank Honda for the worst tires ever that made the transition to real rubber an epiphany of great chassis response!

  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Posts: 179
    How hard is it to replace a drive belt on an '02 CRV, 4WD? From what I've read it also involves removing a splash shield of some sort? Have 84K miles and think it's time. Plan to replace the tensioner pulley also since it is starting to wear groves in it. Any suggestions? :confuse:
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