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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair



  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Posts: 179
    I know it's long after the original post. I found the source of the noise while replacing the rear brakes. The backing plate has started to rust through and is rubbing on the discs when making sharp turns. I guess I'll wait until it becomes a problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Hmmm...can't you bend it out of the way a little bit?


  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Posts: 179
    Good point. The issue arises because there is some sort of a raised ridge around the section where the parking brake assembly sits. Some sort of a way to seal it off? I tried to sand it a bit but am afraid to bend it for fear of it breaking off. That's where the rust holes are.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Yeah I can't see it so I hesitate to advise you on a jury-rig here.


  • cannell3cannell3 Posts: 39
    My daughter's 2007 Cr-v has screeching door locks. When she starts off and the automatic door locks activate, there is a noticeable "screech". Is anyone out there familiar with this problem? Thank you. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    edited May 2011
    Didn't see any TSBs on this issue. You'll probably have to pop off the door panel or panels and see what is interfering in there--some metal to metal contact perhaps.


  • lou777lou777 Posts: 3
    I did this on my 99, or at least my mechanic did. You are going to replace the water pump too since the engine will be half torn down anyway. I paid less than anyone I could think of who is not a mechanic. My mechanic charges $30/hr@8=$240 and I got the parts with employee discount approx. $500

    LMK how you made out,
  • therivertheriver Posts: 67
    04 with 120K. The last week or so I have been hearing a clicking of some sort in the front passenger side(wheel well area).

    Today the check engine light came on and the speedometer stopped working accurately. It still moves but is clearly not responding properly. The "D" light is NOT blinking

    Car is going to dealer for clicking sound on Tuesday anyway. Are these two things possibly related?
  • berriberri Posts: 4,141
    I've got an '11 CRV that's almost 7 months old and has around 3600 miles on it (about half local and half Interstate). The dash computer still shows 70% life. Around what mileage will the maintenance light come on for an oil change and does this thing come with synthetic oil? I don't want to go too long on the original factory oil. Thanks
  • circlewcirclew Posts: 8,353
    edited June 2011
    Hi. I have a '08. :D

    The original oil is Honda certified so no worries. Just wait until the maintenance minder goes to 15% life... probably around 6 -7 K.

    No light will show but it will remind you each time you start the car by displaying 15% life.

    I went with M1 for every oil change (changed at the 15% mark each time and rotated the tires as well. OEM BS tires only lasted 23K). There is 48K on the odo so far and the engine is perfect.

  • berriberri Posts: 4,141
    It seems weird to go so long before changing the oil. Our Camry is 6 months or 5,000 miles. But the new ones I guess are 1 year or 10,000 miles. The Ody we traded in was every 3750 miles. This CRV is definitely built tighter than the Ody. That was a good van overall, but the assembly line quality was rather shoddy - lots of rattles and noises, but no mechanical problems. I've talked to others with the same complaint on Ody's. I don't know if that's a plant problem or a design issue, but even my BIL's Mopar van put it to shame on noise and rattles.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,986
    Toyota's gel. :P

    I think 10k oil changes have been common over the pond for over a decade or more.

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • berriberri Posts: 4,141
    Toyota's gel

    Yeah, I think they changed the time frame on the later models because they went to synthetic oil.

    I think 10k oil changes have been common over the pond for over a decade or more.

    But, do you really trust the Brit's for reliability - just kidding!
  • I ended up having the dealer replace the belt and idler pulley. Cost was around $250 with the parts. I guess it was a matter of pulling off a shield behind the wheel and releasing tension on the belt. Worth it for me to not have to guess if the belt lined up.
  • Does anyone else have issues with the Permatex Synthetic guide grease? I am finding that between brake jobs it tends to act as an adhesive and cause the calipers to stick on the brackets. Looking to try something different. :confuse:
  • I own a 98 CRV with 238k miles which has started making a noise sounding like ceramic plates tapping together. The noise comes from the rear passenger compartment just while driving and is intermittent. Not while going around a curve, nor while breaking or going over bumps . . . Any ideas?
  • jjoseph5jjoseph5 Posts: 2
    My 07 crv A/C just quit working and it is the most common problem
  • Today I noticed a tube under my car was rapidly leaking what seemed to be water... After doing some research, it seemed that the evaporator is what is causing the leak.

    But I don't know what to do to fix it. Would somebody please give me detailed directions on how to fix the leak. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,408
    Nothing to fix! :) Your evaporator has a drain tube that drips the water to the ground. Your AC system naturally extracts moisture from the inside cabin air and that has to go somewhere.

    If you noticed the water INSIDE the car, then you'd have a problem (a clogged drain).


  • O good, thank you! I was worried because of how much water was being displaced...
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