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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ysautoysauto Posts: 27
    Hi, I was at the dealer for an oil change on a Honda CRV 2008 and was told that the power steering rack had sweat on it. The car has 30K on it in mint shape. Reading a lot of reviews don't trust these guys. The dealer stated that I need to replace the rack fro $1250.00.
    I asked if there was a lot of fluid loss, was told no.
    Any opinions are highly appreciated.

    David
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,648
    I would *carefully* snug up the hydraulic lines going to the rack, wash the rack off at the car wash, and keep an eye on it.
  • ysautoysauto Posts: 27
    Thanks, I wish do the wash and keep an eye on the fluids, I didn't see anything dripping in the garage.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,971
    2012 Honda CR-V: 20,000-Mile B1 Service Complete

    Edmunds paid $139.07 with tax after a discount for a B1 service on the long term tester.

    image
  • therivertheriver Posts: 67
    I think it was 85 - 90 dollars for the A1 (although I had a coupon for a half priced oil change so I did not pay that). However, the B1 appears to be nothing more than an O/C, rotate and check a bunch of stuff they check anyway, so when I go for the B1 I am going to insist they just do the A1.

    I do have a question. Why is the oil change so much on this car? My dealer says a "regular oil change" for other years is 29.95 (which I pay on my 2004 CRV, but the 2012 use 0W 30 oil which they charge 59.95 for.

    Is the oil that more expensive? I thought I heard them say it was synthetic, but the owners manual seems to imply that synthetic is an option, which to me means there is 0W30 that is not synthetic - Why so much for an O/C?
  • oldbearcatoldbearcat Posts: 161
    I have a 2010 CRV. It requires 0W-20 oil, which is only available in synthetic. I suspect your 2012 uses the same oil. Go price 5 quarts of the stuff, an oil filter, and a replacement drain bolt gasket. $59.95 isn't a bad deal.

    Regards:
    Oldbearcat
  • therivertheriver Posts: 67
    thanks oldbearcat. I guess when a person only buys a car once every 11 years things change!

    I changed the oil last time as soon as the light went on. I realized afterwards I probably had another 1000 miles or so before it went to 5%. Given the price, I think Ill squeeze it as close as possible.

    thanks
  • oldbearcatoldbearcat Posts: 161
    I don't even use the dealer here. I do my own oil changes on the Honda - its pretty easy to do.

    Regards:
    Oldbearcat
  • waynewalwaynewal Posts: 4
    Am looking to purchase a used CRV soon. Probably from carmax as they have a limited warranty. Am open to year and can afford up to a 2011. I hear certain years are 'avoid' years.
    Am looking at the 4wd version. Any input would be appreciated.
  • soco4soco4 Posts: 9
    The CVR resale values are so high that it's best to buy new. You'll get a "free" warranty, and neither sometimes-improper use and/or maintenance, nor the wear of several tens of thousands of miles. Don't pay for all wheel drive unless you would have substantial use for it.

    I am quite happy with my 2005 CRV LX. No repair to date (admittedly, miles are quite low); even the battery was still good after 8 years (I proactively replaced it earlier this spring).
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,971
    The CR-V is indeed on the list (comparing one year old cars to new ones, but still).

    Some New Cars Now Cheaper Than Used Cars
  • waynewalwaynewal Posts: 4
    edited May 2013
    I think there are complaints on the newest CRV and a recall. I really don't have the ability - now retired - to spring for that high a car payment. Still looking used. BUT lots of miles on those used babies!!!
    On top of that looking to get one made in Japan - versus mexcio or the U.S. Am reading a lot on line about problems with the latter 2...
    UK definitely NOT
  • charles_guycharles_guy Posts: 55
    edited May 2013
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,971
    Don't forget the tire rotation.

    I got new tires put on my minivan today and the shop checked my brakes, coolant, battery and topped off my windshield washer fluid. That was a nice freebie (although I paid, lol).
  • charles_guycharles_guy Posts: 55
    hey steve_ host and nice to have quick reply from a edmunds host,

    not sure what you rubbere'd on your van since snow is not much problem in ne for us

    i go for hydroplaning and really like some of the yokos or generals

    my comment about that crv service in the comment here http://www.edmunds.com/honda/cr-v/2012/long-term-road-test/2012-honda-cr-v-20000- -mile-b1-service-complete-commentspage.html#comments i just want to say check dealer sites n coupons.

    quote: (1) [i]I know that 0W20 synthetic is required for the CR-V[/i] and (2) [i]I picked up the CR-V about an hour later and was pleased to find the total bill did indeed reflect a discount: It was $139.07 with tax. That's right in line with the Edmunds.com Maintenance Calculator's suggestion that you should pay $145 for a 20,000-mile service on a 2012 Honda CR-V if you live in the 90404 zip code.[/i] (1) full syn is wrong as crv is listed per manual @ 0w-20 which can be a blend or full syn (2) i always check dealer sites for coupons so next time check dealer site for coupons "Includes: Change oil up to 5 qts.- Install Honda genuine oil filter - Multi-point inspection - Vehicles with 0/20 grade are $59.95" http://www.hondaofsantamonica.com/specials/service.htm (Multi-point inspection includes all that hose n brake checking stuff) 59.95+tax (59.95+(59.95x.095))=65.65 crv in the air doing oil so rotating tires=? edmunds payed 139.07 ipad & service advisor=fancy and less money in your pocket

    sou cal i think edmunds after $60 santa monica honda coupon for oil change n car check maybe $20-40 for rotation so maybe $100 in so cal.

    just leased LX and with 16's pumped the contys to 37 and now good steering

    nice ride and hope you enjoy yours steve_ host
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,971
    edited May 2013
    Yeah, your coupon doesn't cover rotations was my point. That's part of the 20k service, so you'll have to add that in.

    I'm riding on Nokian WRG2s lately (and yeah, I'm in the UP of Michigan, and we get a bit of snow).
  • charles_guycharles_guy Posts: 55
    former 2wd/fwd indiana h pilot gal with geolandars and then grabbers in some big snow

    sorry your right on the rotation thing and jus wanted to point out the coupon from santa monica

    thanks for the fast reply

    safe driving
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Posts: 92
    I'm down here in Florida. I spent all May researching CR-V market here (all car websites, dealer websites, AAA), to get one for my daughter (senior year in college). I found that Honda dealers will rather send used CR-V's back to auction than sell them for a price below market (but still in the black for a profit). This skews the NADA and KBB values, because those sales to auctions are not recorded. Also, they use the higher used prices to sell new ones instead. I've seen used 11 EX selling at more than a new LX at same dealer. I Since it has the newer design, I really wanted a 2007+, but the price spread from 2006 to 2007 is steep. We ended up getting a 2009 LX with 126k miles for 10K, after it sat on their lot for 2 months with price dropping 2K over the final 2 weeks.

    I got all the service work details from the dealer, including that it had valves adjusted and a new valve cover put in around 110k miles. Is there anything I need to be on the lookout for over the next two months before she takes it to college in August? I also noticed a driveshaft seal getting worked on. Is that normal?
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,971
    edited June 2013
    Sending salable cars back to auction rather than cleaning them up for the used car lot makes no sense does it? Must be a tax dodge. :shades:

    Not sure, but I've read stories over the years that Edmunds gets auction numbers to plug into the TMV formula, but I'm not privy to that stuff so can't really say.

    If you didn't get a pre-purchase inspection done on the '09, I'd do one now at an independent mechanic. That may find any time-bombs that the dealer glossed over and maybe give you ammo to get the dealer to fix it. More likely the mechanic will recommend when any fluid changes or brake jobs or other general maintenance should be done.

    Other owners will be better sources about known problems or the seals; all I can think of from surfing the boards is that CR-Vs have a reputation for failing AC compressors.

    Congrats on the new ride - you're a good dad. :)
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Posts: 92
    We just bought a 2009 CR-V. It's got 126k miles on it, but overall seems quite solid. The problem: the driver's door lock switch will not unlock the door locks. It can lock the doors, but it fails to do anything when moved in the unlock direction. We did not notice it because the driver's lock unlocked automatically when the car was shut off. I found the switch part online, and have changed these out in other cars I've owned by popping out the switch panel. But I cannot figure out (and have searched the internet far and wide) whether the switch panel can be removed from the armrest on its own (it is deeply set into the armrest) or if I have to remove the entire door panel. Any 2007-2011 owners/mechanics out there? Thanks!
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