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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • silver_bulletsilver_bullet Posts: 1,339
    For Gen I cars, the service indicator is extinguished by inserting the ignition key into a small rectangular slot to the left of the indicator lamp - check your owner's manual. Try the sponsor at the top of the page for an aftermarket oil filter wrench that fits the new filters.
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    I've done this many times on the old Odyssey. It works for the new CRV as well... Press and HOLD the trip odometer reset button while turning on the ignition (either start the car or activate ignition on so all dash lights come on). KEEP holding the trip reset for about 10 sec, it will keep flashing but eventually go off after about 10 sec and you are good for another 10K miles or so. The manual covers this procedure as well.
  • shondashonda Posts: 2
    Our 2002 CRV EX, stick shift, which we love, has 43,000 miles on it and is thus outside warranty. It developed a strange sluggishness, as though we had mistakenly left the emergency brake on -- not rolling in neutral, and hesitating as we shifted gears. Took it to the dealer who test drove it and found no issue -- it was an off and on kind of problem. But they said they thoroughly checked the brake system and everything was fine. A week later it happened again, and I took it straight to the dealer. Once there, it stopped doing it and I left it there for a day so that the diagnostician could take it out a few times. Next day they called and said they had found the problem -- the brake fluid, they say, was contaminated, causing the problem, and necessitating the replacement of the entire brake system (parts and labor, $2300.00). The car was never serviced except by this dealer, and my local garage, which assures me that they had never topped up brake fluid for me. At the moment I am waiting for American Honda to contact me to discuss whether they might find it in their hearts to chip in on this. Has anyone had this kind of problem? I am torn between believing the dealer and wondering if they contaminated the fluid on purpose because they couldn't figure out the problem and needed the business. There has been a certain amount of doubletalk -- particularly on the issue of why they didn't see the fluid issue when they "thoroughly" checked out the brake system the week before.
  • grapevinetxgrapevinetx Posts: 89
    Shonda, if it was me, given that the CRV is out of warranty, I'd be getting a second, and maybe a third, opinion from a respected independent shop before I signed off on having the dealer replace the entire brake system. What is it that the dealership is saying the brake fluid is contaminated with? Depending on the answer, I might change my thinking, but for starters I'd be asking why a brake system flush wouldn't be the appropriate next step and then see if the problem recurs.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    I wouldn't believe the dealer in a heartbeat. Excellent advise from the other poster, get another opinion. Checking brake fluid is one of the first things checked. How did the brake fluid get contaminated and contaminated with what? And how would that cause $2300 in repairs? What parts do they want to replace? Something is definately fishy?
  • shondashonda Posts: 2
    Thanks to grapevinetx#1083 and mikefm28; I'll get a second opinion and proceed from there. I apprecite the help!
  • isda65isda65 Posts: 74
    I have read somewhere in this forum about owners being very happy with their 5-speed and in fact recommending this to others. So I bought one, eight months ago. I must admit I test drove an auto (no manuals were available at the time) and never worried because you see I've been driving manuals for more than 20 yrs. Why should it be any different now. The only difference now is that this is the first time that I'd be driving a Honda. Well, let me say that if I only have the money to burn I'd have traded this in six months ago.

    I just want your opinion though on a couple of issues that has been bothering me. First, is it normal in all 5spd CRVs to have their clutch pedals sit quite high from the floor, higher in fact compared to the brake and accelarator pedals?

    Second, being high, I have noticed (experimented) that I can shift normally by stepping on the clutch a third to half of the way rather than push it all the way down. Is this normal? Will this break things?

    Third, if I release the clutch without pausing halfway back I'd more often than not induce jerking. My feeling is that you have to give the gears a bit more time to catch before releasing it. Is this a Honda thing? That's why it's kind of hard to take off quickly from stop; one because of the clutch travel and second because the car doesn't take too kindly to quick shifting.

    I know I'm not technical enough to explain it but I know that something's different with my car considering that I've read very good reviews about the 5 speed here.

    I do hope somebody can help me in this regard. Could this be an adjustment issue with the clutch. If so I'd be more than willing to pay for the labor fees to sort of "tune" my shifting.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Isda65
  • theracoontheracoon Posts: 666
    I have a '99 CR-V, so the linkage may be slightly different, but there is a pedal height adjustment. My clutch pedal is the same height off the floor as the brake pedal.

    As to the quick release resulting in jerking, mine does that too. You do know that the clutch pedal activates a hydraulic system that engages and disengages the clutch, right? There isn't a cable that runs between the pedal and clutch. I was surprised to learn that, as all my previous manual transmission vehicles had cables. I've gotten used to it, and just assume it's a function of the hydraulics.

    :)
  • isda65isda65 Posts: 74
    "You do know that the clutch pedal activates a hydraulic system that engages and disengages the clutch, right? There isn't a cable that runs between the pedal and clutch. I was surprised to learn that, as all my previous manual transmission vehicles had cables. I've gotten used to it, and just assume it's a function of the hydraulics."

    Yes, I've been told by Honda mechanics about this. I guess I just needed to hear this from other CRV 5spd owners. I have also made the necessary adjustments but I have yet to feel the experience of enjoying it. I'll see if I can have the clutch pedal height adjusted. I feel it would make a big difference.

    Thanks theracoon for your reply. Any more comments from other CRV 5-spd owners?

    Thanks
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 31,059
    Hydraulic clutches have been around for decades. Was your previous experience with manual shifts on domestic cars? Honda makes some of the slickest manual shifters in the business.

    Most domestics that I have driven engage the clutch when the clutch pedal is very close to the floor. I think this is harder. Hondas typically get all their clutch action in the last half of clutch travel. Meaning, a quick stab at the clutch about half-way down is enough to shift gears. Also, if you have the clutch pedal depressed all the way, it doesn't seem to start to engage until you release it about half-way.

    I'm surprised that after 6000 miles, you haven't become used to it. But, it should in no way be related to the fact that the clutch is hydraulic.

    regards,
    kyfdx

    MODERATOR
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  • isda65isda65 Posts: 74
    Thanks kyfdx.

    My experience is with Toyota's, Nissan's and Mitsubishi's and I can't remember having any complaints about the driving experience especially shifting.

    "I'm surprised that after 6000 miles, you haven't become used to it".

    Actually it's about 4700 miles but even then I guess one of the reason's is the level of resistance that I have shown thinking that there's something wrong with the car.

    Do you agree with theracoon though about the fact that the clutch pedal height can be adjusted?

    Thank you for your input and time, kyfdx.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 31,059
    I don't have a manual transmission in my '02, but I did have one in my '98. I know theracoon also has a previous generation model.

    That said, I'm almost positive they can adjust the clutch pedal down. That may solve most of your problem. Without being there, I can't say for sure that there is nothing wrong with your car, but a properly working hydraulic clutch should work just as well as the mechanical kind.

    regards,
    kyfdx

    MODERATOR
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  • richk6richk6 Posts: 87
    My 02 EX developed a mid-pitched whining noise after about 25 minutes driving. Touching the brake pedal stops the whine, but it then returns. I can't tell if noise is front or rear.

    I let the car cool off, then after a short drive,(I believe after brakes heated up, the whine returned). Touching pedal again stops noise, but it returns.

    I only have 9000 miles on the EX. Am taking it to dealer for service next week. It is still under warranty.

    Has anyone had a similar problem, or have an idea what causes the noise?
  • autosaurusautosaurus Posts: 90
    I've had a number of Honda, and Accura, products over the years and the thing that is different about their manual transmissions is that you must actually "ride" the clutch slightly to have a smooth launch. After driving other cars, not just domestic, but BMW's VW's etc, this takes getting used to. I do have to say though that although you'd think you'd burn out the clutch , I've never had to replace one and drove them to about 50,000 miles before selling the car.

    It's not enjoyable at all.

    As for wanted to trade in the car early, I must admit that I felt the same way, and am still not happy with mine but it does grow on you, or you just begin to ignore the picular driving positions, constant rattles etc. I guess with the warm weather and windows open I dont hear them as much. My plan was to get rid of it after a year but considering gas prices, 23 mpg seems alot better than the 15 to 18 other SUV's are getting.

    Bike Racks - does anyone have any recommendations for a good bike rack /setup, for this car. I didnt get the roof rack as I wasnt sure yet if I needed it to get a roof mounter bike rack.
    Any help is appreciated.
    Thanks
  • crvexcrvex Posts: 23
    my new 04 CRV always gives out loud "click" noise after i park the car. the noise sounds like water dropped on metal, any comments?
  • isda65isda65 Posts: 74
    Thanks autosaurus,theracoon,kyfdx. I feel a little better now knowing that this is not actually a defect. In fact I've been a little kinder to the car now (no more cursing and swearing when I feel those jerks) Next time I consider a manual I'm definitely going to test drive them now :) Apart from this, the car's great. I'm sure I'll get used to it eventually. Thanks for all the input again. This is a great forum.
  • thirdof4thirdof4 Posts: 28
    I have a 2004 EX and tow it behind a mini motorhome so I didn't want to add the weight of a hitch and hitch-based bike rack plus bikes on a Class III hitch. After looking at many bike racks, I settled on the Cyclehiker and sent for it through J.C. Whitney online. The Cyclehiker is a spare tire bike rack. A lot of the spare tire bike racks require you to remove the tire and then replace it before mounting the bikes. The Cyclehiker fits over the tire and is quite fast. The only complaints that I have is that it fits very tightly between the back wiper blade and the tire and I feel that putting some sort of padding between the door and the bar is appropriate for protection. Also, it only fits two bikes. We only use it when the EX is not being towed. We use the motorhome ladder bike rack for towing so the bike-associated weight is not adding weight to the EX.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 31,059
    Do you tow the CRV with all four wheels on the ground? If so, what do you have to do to prepare it? Just curious.

    regards,
    kyfdx

    MODERATOR
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  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Kyfdx - The instructions for towing flat are in the owner's manual. I'm not sure if they've changed since the first gen, but I recall something about putting it in and out of gear, turning the ignition on and off, putting your left foot in, and stuff like that.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 31,059
    LOL... I know that for both generations, they say never to tow the vehicle.. to always flatbed it, in case of a breakdown.. But, of course, they are referring to towing it with two wheels off the ground. I've always been curious as to what kind of wear and tear you are putting on a car, towing it behind a motorhome. Especially an AWD car like the CRV, with no transfer case.

    regards,
    kyfdx

    MODERATOR
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  • thirdof4thirdof4 Posts: 28
    We tow will all four down. It's quite easy actually. Start the engine, put foot on brake, go through all of the gears, then back to Drive, then Neutral, sit for three minutes while the transmission fluid warms up, turn key to Accessory, make sure brake is off. I think that's all of the procedure and in the correct order. The manual is very specific. The V tows quite nicely but is a bit heavier than our Sidekick so we noticed a little bit of difference on steep hills. Overall, as far as drivability we're happy but I do notice lots of suspension noise when going up into driveways, making sharp turns. Don't know what that might be but since we only have 3,300 miles on it so far, I'm waiting to see if things work themselves out.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 31,059
    So....what happens to the odometer? Does it record mileage?

    Just curious,
    kyfdx

    MODERATOR
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  • thirdof4thirdof4 Posts: 28
    The manual suggests that if you drive the vehicle under what they might refer to as "severe" conditions, the maintenance schedule is pushed up a bit. In other words, rather than changing transmission fluid at 100,000 miles (just an example, as I don't have the manual here for reference) you would change it at 70,000 miles for severe conditions. We plan on maintaining our V on the "severe" schedule just to be on the safe side. There are a couple of other restrictions such as not driving over 65 mph while towing, running pre-towing procedure after a certain amount of miles or hours, etc. We're hoping that with good maintenance, we shouldn't be shortening the life of the vehicle. I guess time will tell...
  • thirdof4thirdof4 Posts: 28
    It's a digital odometer, no mileage is recorded and this is a great feature because our old Sidekick racked up the mileage even though it wasn't being driven. When we sold it, we had to explain that approximately 5,000 miles were "toad" miles. Fortunately, the people who eventually purchased it were also going to tow it.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 31,059
    Thanks... interesting.

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  • rtmrtm Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 CRV EX & the AC compressor recently went out with 99,000 miles. My 1995 CIVIC EX had 230K mikes when I traded it & I never had any problems. Anybody elese with any problems? Repair is going to be $1,200+. American Honda was not of any assistance & just said that is a fact of owning a vehicle with air conditioning.
  • rtmrtm Posts: 2
    My 2002 CRV EX air conditioning just went out & it's going to cost $1,200+ to fix it. My 1995 Civic EX had 230K miles when I traded it & the only major work I had was changing the timing belt once & CV joints.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,914
    With 99,000 miles?? Wow!

    It's not unreasnoble for an A/C compressor to fail after than many miles. They usually last longer but stuff happens.
  • mr_botsmr_bots Posts: 229
    Are Honda's that much more expensive to fix? The A/C compressor in my 96 Chevrolet S10 went out a month or so ago and it $600 to fix. I was considering a CR-V but I keep cars for well over 100K miles and if parts on these are twice what they are on a GM or Ford product I think I'll stick with the domestics.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,914
    Oh, some parts cost more and some less.

    You might have had a cheaper rebuilt compressor installed instead of a factory new one or remanufactured one. Labor would probably be about the same. 1200.00 sounds awful high!

    You mentioned cost of ownership?

    Hondas are usually far more reliable than the domestisc you mentioned and the resale values down the road will be MUCH better.
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