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t
So, when you drive, do you know what speed you are at, and what RPM's the engine is running at, or whether the engine is overheated, or if you have enough gas to get there, or if the oil is gone and you are grinding metal against metal in the engine?
God forbid if you had to shift...
Basic driving skills to me.
Peace.
The only time to turn VSA off is a situation where you can only proceed by purposely letting your wheels spin - as in trying to dig out of mud or snow.
In normal driving, having your wheels lose traction is a mistake, and VSA is designed to compensate for that mistake so that you don't run off the road or whatever.
Try it out in a snowy parking lot sometime - you'll feel when it kicks in. It's important, when you feel that during normal driving, to keep steering in the direction you want to go, rather than trying to steer your way out of the slide.
Thanks that’s just what I thought
My wife drove her 06 SE home on slippery 95 tonight with beautiful results
This CRV is my 20th Honda since my first one- a Civic in 1977!
tidester, host
Drive on over to my place!
BTW: Dealer $156 - Same Genuine Honda part on-line $95. Just need to install it. Any expertise from the audience?
Thanks!
tidester, host
Thank you. Didn't know we had a solenoid there.
Has anybody any wisdom on how to get the thingy off? I tried to purchase a repair manual, but they are not yet available!
MarengoMarty
Good luck.
TB
I wonder how old and what make was your previous ride. Honda does hang a little in the RPM's when shifting. I had it in the 1999 Civic, 2001 CR-V, 2002 Civic, and 2005 CR-V.
Has anybody any wisdom on how to get the thingy off? I tried to purchase a repair manual, but they are not yet available!
MarengoMarty
What kind of a parts store is this that does not have H1 bulbs?
Press the spring to unlock and move it out of the way.
My question is the car/transmission suppose to make a loud click when I put the car in reverse to get out of the driveway? Thanks!
When putting a tranny into Park, a lock pin gets inserted into the tranny. If there is a lot of pressure on the pin, it can hard to get out of Park and make a significant pop/click when putting the vehicle into gear... and it can hurt the Park pin over time.
What is happening is that you are forcing that Park pin to hold the vechicle and using the emergency brake as a backup. It should be the other way around with the brakes doing the holding and the Park pin serving as a backup.
The correct solution is to NOT put that much pressure on the Park pin. Pull into your driveway, keep your foot on the brake, put on the emergency brake, put the car in Park, and turn off the ignition.
When getting going again, reverse the process: Put your foot on the brake, start the vehicle, take it out of Park, and release the emergency brake. Let the brakes do the work!
My wife would get into the vehicle, take off the emergency brake (letting the vehicle roll back an inch and putting a lot of pressure on the pin) and then wonder why it seems harder to take it out of Park. It took her a couple of times but it finally sank in.
No click, no pressure, no distress on the pin.
Can anyone tell me if there are sensors in the rear of a 2004 CR-V?
Thanks so much for any info you can give!!!
I don't believe there are any rear sensors to inflate the front airbags.
Sorry to hear about your injuries, but the air bags are not designed to go off in collision from the rear. The sensors for the dash and steering wheel air bags detect the sudden change in momentum going forward. Even if you purposefully backed up into a tree at full force, the backwards firing airbags, should not go off.
The simplest explanation of the airbag sensor is to imagine a weight and a string stretched in a horisontal position. If the force on the weight is greated than the force of the string holding it back, the string will break. The weight then closes the circuit that fires the airbags. This is oversimplified explanation. So, there is no reason for the circuit to close if you lift the weight up and releases the tnetion in the string, which is what happens when the vehile is rear ended.
Were you buckled in when accident happend? Although, it wouldn't have helped much, because I think the seat belt tentioners also work in the forward direction only, but I am not 100% sure.
If the impact was strong enough to cause you to bounce off the seatback into the steering wheel past the normal tention of the seatbelt. The car is toast. The rear crumple zones should have been crumpled. They are not repairable. Your cargo area hold should look like accordeon. Some less scrupulous shops will pull that part out and make the car roadworthy. But insist on totalling it with your insurance company. Once repaired the crumple zones are not the same.
Thanks for the info, and the sympathy, my jaw is sore but getting better.
I did have my seatbelt on, but as you thought it was not much help. I was just trying to find out if there were sensors that should have set off the air bags, that just seems like a given to me. I have air bags I feel safer, apparently I was wrong and air bags are not the big comfy blanket the auto industry would like you to believe.
I am still concerned why the seatbelt did not hold me to the seat like I thought it was supposed to. But I guess they are not as much of a safety mechanism as they are thought to be either.
I can say one thing for sure; I am going to buy a nice big truck this time, since they did total my car (as you said they would). I know some people and I'm sure there are studies that say big trucks are not safer that cars, but I feel safer when I'm in my work truck (a dodge Ram 2500 quad cab).
Thanks for all your help!!!
Michael
I have also seen suggested that one not have two chip-enabled keys on the same keyring, lest one of them interfere with the other. They are using radio waves, after all.
One problem though. There is always someone who has a bigger truck than yours. Don't forget the Greyhound buses and 80,000 lbs semi trailers, freight trains...
Thanks
I got a 2006 CR-V, LX, Automatic in November. We live in Boston (cold weather) and drive 50% city and 50% highway. I fill it up at local Sunoco statiion mostly, with 87 regular unleaded gasoline.
We calculate gas mileage at almost every fill-up (miles gone since previous fill-up/# gallons filled). The car now has 3,800 miles on it, and I have never been able to get 20 MGP or greater! We average 18-19 in the city. When we drive all highway (open roads, cruise control, 70-75 mph), we get up to 19.8 (best run!).
The dealer said to 'wait until it breaks in', but at 3500+ miles, seems like it should be ready. What could be wrong with the car - I plan to take it to a non-dealer mechanic that I trust to get checked out.
Thanks
Have you been using the Defogger feature? When you turn that dial to the Defog position, the A/C automatically turns on (and as I remember, the small green light does not come on).
I have an opposite problem now on my '05 CR-V: when I use the A/C, there is no water dripping afterwards. And the air blowing from the vents is not really cold. I guess I lost some refrigerant (leak in the system?).
I got a 2006 CR-V, LX, Automatic in November. We live in Boston (cold weather) and drive 50% city and 50% highway. I fill it up at local Sunoco statiion mostly, with 87 regular unleaded gasoline.
We calculate gas mileage at almost every fill-up (miles gone since previous fill-up/# gallons filled). The car now has 3,800 miles on it, and I have never been able to get 20 MGP or greater! We average 18-19 in the city. When we drive all highway (open roads, cruise control, 70-75 mph), we get up to 19.8 (best run!).
The dealer said to 'wait until it breaks in', but at 3500+ miles, seems like it should be ready. What could be wrong with the car - I plan to take it to a non-dealer mechanic that I trust to get checked out.
Thanks
1. Despite the EPA's estimations the Automatic is going to be getting lower mileage because of the higher losses associated with it. The only time a Manual CR-V has lwoer fuel efficiency is when it is driven on the highway at 70 mph or more.
2. It is winter and winter gas has more MTBE or whatever the additive MA uses for winter gas to increase the evaporation point. It lowers your fuel efficiency. Wait until gas stations swith to summer gas with less additive.
3. I don't know for sure, but Sunoco may be using Gasohol, which is a mix of gasoline and Ethanol. It will lower the fuel efficiency as well. Try a brand that uses pure gasoine such as Exxon/Mobil.
4. See is there is any "dead weight" in the car. Items that you don't need anymore, like a snow shovel, bags of sand, and other junk that people carry in their cars. Every pound counts when it comes to fuel economy.
5. Your rate of acceleration will have a great effect on fuel economy. Next time you take off at the light, follow a fully loaded semi. See how long it takes him to get up to speed. This will probably give you the next best fuel savings (manual being first, but you already bought a car and can't change that)
6. See what air pressure you have in your tires. Honda recommends something very ridiculously low like 26 psi. I run 33-34 up front and 29-30 in the rear.
7. After the first oil change at 5000 miles, make sure you use 5W-20 and preferrably Synthetic, a true Synthetic like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Red Line, and not highly purified dyno like Valvoline and Castrol.
By the way, EPA estimations on the window sticker are based on 49 mph maximum speed, and very leisurly take off.
Lately I've noticed a kind of low, rumbling sound coming from the rear end of the car--only in certain situations where I'm moving slow and making very sharp turns with the wheel such as in a parking lot, pulling into or backing out of my driveway or a parking space, etc. My inclination is to think it has something to do with the rear transaxle components, but not sure. No indication of fluid leaks or anything like that.
I would like to avoid taking in but need to know if anybody has experienced this. How did you handle it and what was the outcome?
Thanks,
Jason
Just curious -- how much gas can you save (in terms of mpg) by leaving the spare in the garage (along with the jack -- not much use without the spare)?
Whatever you save will be lost on that one occasion when you need a tow truck to fix that flat on a cold rainy night miles from town.
tidester, host
Yes, you are right, it's just not worth it
Whatever you save will be lost on that one occasion when you need a tow truck to fix that flat on a cold rainy night miles from town.
tidester, host
Not if you have AAA or Honda care (comes with roadside assitance) :-)
I was not talking about the tire and jack, which do add about 50 lbs. But in general people have too much junk in the car, that adds up. Every 100 lbs is 13 HP.
A heavier driver will have worse fuel economy than a light weight driver. And we all know that people who drive CR-V's range from 100 lbs wet to 300 lbs. dry :-)