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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tamarastertamaraster Member Posts: 107
    Yeah, my understanding is that some situations require slippage - like digging out of mud or snow - and in those situations, turning off the stability control is a good idea. (I was able to get out of some snow the other day by doing this and putting the car - auto trans here - into 2.)
  • harvey44harvey44 Member Posts: 178
    I did read the manual, and I do know how to turn the VSA off. My OP said that I wasn't sure why you would do that, not how. If the manual indicates why you would turn it of the VSA, I missed it. I always read my manual at least twice. Love it. As for noticing the VSA indicator light, I'd be surprised (and impressed) with someone who is cool enough to navigate our driveway in 10 inches of snow, while watching the dash instead of the road. Thanks to those who helped.
  • jcufrjcufr Member Posts: 4
    I think your statement is absolutely absurd. If you do not want to provide useful information then maybe you should go to the Rav-4 message board. Have you experienced your vehicle actually changing lanes while you are driving? If you have experienced such a thing you would not be making the ridiculous comments you are currently submitting. I didn't buy a brand new vehicle to have it in the shop only a week after purchasing it. Also, I didn't purchase a vehicle to have three more visits between two different dealerships for repairs and a Honda representative also examine my vehicle. I was under the impression Honda made quality vehicles. So, until you have been through this, you have nothing to comment on going forward!!
  • tedtcbtedtcb Member Posts: 39
    So to clarify, when driving in snow on a typical interstate like I 95 in NY.CT—basically flat-- do you recommend Stability Control stay “on”
    t
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    As for noticing the VSA indicator light, I'd be surprised (and impressed) with someone who is cool enough to navigate our driveway in 10 inches of snow, while watching the dash instead of the road.

    So, when you drive, do you know what speed you are at, and what RPM's the engine is running at, or whether the engine is overheated, or if you have enough gas to get there, or if the oil is gone and you are grinding metal against metal in the engine?

    God forbid if you had to shift...

    Basic driving skills to me.

    Peace.
  • sceglascegla Member Posts: 20
    I never turn my VSA off... never had a need to yet.
  • tamarastertamaraster Member Posts: 107
    In this situation (driving on a snowy highway), you should definitely leave the VSA on. This is the exact type of situation it is designed to help in.

    The only time to turn VSA off is a situation where you can only proceed by purposely letting your wheels spin - as in trying to dig out of mud or snow.

    In normal driving, having your wheels lose traction is a mistake, and VSA is designed to compensate for that mistake so that you don't run off the road or whatever.

    Try it out in a snowy parking lot sometime - you'll feel when it kicks in. It's important, when you feel that during normal driving, to keep steering in the direction you want to go, rather than trying to steer your way out of the slide.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Try to avoid any personal comments when contradicting another user's opinions, or your posts may be removed.
  • tedtcbtedtcb Member Posts: 39
    Scegla/tamaraster
    Thanks…that’s just what I thought
    My wife drove her 06 SE home on slippery 95 tonight with beautiful results
    This CRV is my 20th Honda since my first one- a Civic in 1977!
  • dhjdhj Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 CRV with 15000 miles and already have had to replace the IMT valve solenoid twice. Both times, the check engine light came on and the codes said it was a faulty IMT valve solenoid. Is this a common problem?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    What's IMT, forgive my ignorance.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    IMT = Intake Manifold Tuning

    tidester, host
    imageDrive on over to my place!
  • crv4mecrv4me Member Posts: 10
    Has anyone had the pleasure of replacing a mirror assembly on an 05? Mirror didn't fold back and the pot metal casting broke... part not available separately... the entire color matched assembly needs to be replaced.

    BTW: Dealer $156 - Same Genuine Honda part on-line $95. Just need to install it. Any expertise from the audience?

    Thanks!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    IMT = Intake Manifold Tuning

    tidester, host


    Thank you. Didn't know we had a solenoid there.
  • armcarmc Member Posts: 2
    Instrument cluster was recently replaced by dealer. Now gas gauge is off by 1/4 (shows 3/4 when full, or Empty when 1/4). Everything else is fine. Does anyone know whether there is a calibration procedure, or adjustment, for this?
  • marengomartymarengomarty Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Honda CR-V I bought new, now the drivers side head light is out! New bulbs are not available at a car parts store! I did get the plug off the back and the rubber seal but can't get the spring loaded holder off that keeps the bulb in place! What the manual says is not enough info!!!
    Has anybody any wisdom on how to get the thingy off? I tried to purchase a repair manual, but they are not yet available!
    MarengoMarty
  • tcasboytcasboy Member Posts: 214
    I can't help you with the bulb sorry. But you can buy the shop manual on Handa-accessories.com (see the link above) for $72.

    Good luck.

    TB
  • mpvinvampvinva Member Posts: 8
    I have a new '06 CR-V that seems to behave differently than any other manual I have driven. When the clutch pedal is depressed to shift, the engine RPMs remain at the current engine speed and stay there longer than what I consider normal, before dropping off. It is like the clutch disengages too slowly, although the pedal is all the way depressed. When shifting at higher RPMs it seems more pronounced and you can see the tach actually increase in speed a bit before finally dropping off. Is this similiar to other owners of 5-speeds? I hate wasting my time at the Dealership if this isn't uncharacteristic. Thanks.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a new '06 CR-V that seems to behave differently than any other manual I have driven. When the clutch pedal is depressed to shift, the engine RPMs remain at the current engine speed and stay there longer than what I consider normal, before dropping off. It is like the clutch disengages too slowly, although the pedal is all the way depressed. When shifting at higher RPMs it seems more pronounced and you can see the tach actually increase in speed a bit before finally dropping off. Is this similiar to other owners of 5-speeds? I hate wasting my time at the Dealership if this isn't uncharacteristic. Thanks.

    I wonder how old and what make was your previous ride. Honda does hang a little in the RPM's when shifting. I had it in the 1999 Civic, 2001 CR-V, 2002 Civic, and 2005 CR-V.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a 2005 Honda CR-V I bought new, now the drivers side head light is out! New bulbs are not available at a car parts store! I did get the plug off the back and the rubber seal but can't get the spring loaded holder off that keeps the bulb in place! What the manual says is not enough info!!!
    Has anybody any wisdom on how to get the thingy off? I tried to purchase a repair manual, but they are not yet available!
    MarengoMarty


    What kind of a parts store is this that does not have H1 bulbs?

    Press the spring to unlock and move it out of the way.
  • redsox111redsox111 Member Posts: 8
    My driveway is on a slope, so after I park it I always pull the hand brake.
    My question is the car/transmission suppose to make a loud click when I put the car in reverse to get out of the driveway? Thanks!
  • sceglascegla Member Posts: 20
    If you put pressure on the "Park" lock pin, it will click/pop when forcing it out of Park. I too live on a very steep driveway and was just going over this with my wife (who always parks her Accord in the garage on nice level ground).

    When putting a tranny into Park, a lock pin gets inserted into the tranny. If there is a lot of pressure on the pin, it can hard to get out of Park and make a significant pop/click when putting the vehicle into gear... and it can hurt the Park pin over time.

    What is happening is that you are forcing that Park pin to hold the vechicle and using the emergency brake as a backup. It should be the other way around with the brakes doing the holding and the Park pin serving as a backup.

    The correct solution is to NOT put that much pressure on the Park pin. Pull into your driveway, keep your foot on the brake, put on the emergency brake, put the car in Park, and turn off the ignition.

    When getting going again, reverse the process: Put your foot on the brake, start the vehicle, take it out of Park, and release the emergency brake. Let the brakes do the work!

    My wife would get into the vehicle, take off the emergency brake (letting the vehicle roll back an inch and putting a lot of pressure on the pin) and then wonder why it seems harder to take it out of Park. It took her a couple of times but it finally sank in.

    No click, no pressure, no distress on the pin.
  • harvey44harvey44 Member Posts: 178
    Is this the fun part? I have to say that the good advice from others is well worth the prerequisite abuse from the god guy.
  • marg2265marg2265 Member Posts: 9
    Thanks so much for that explanation, I always wondered what was the correct way to do this.. I too park on a steep driveway.
    :)
  • mpvinvampvinva Member Posts: 8
    The last Honda I had was a 1987 Accord, it didn't do it. I currently have a '92 Toyota Paseo and an '02 Jetta, neither of which do either. When I've been driving the other cars and get into the CRV it really seems unusual in comparison. The CR-V engine kind of "revs" for a second or so before losing RPMs and its audibly noticeable. The other cars RPMS dive almost immediately when the clutch is depressed and the only engine noise is the sound of the engine going south.
  • rbl00rbl00 Member Posts: 3
    I am trying to find out how the air bags on a CR-V work. I have a 2004 CR-V and I was in an accident where I was hit in the rear end. Some people have told me that the air bag should have gone off and some say no, it will not go off if hit from behind only if I am hit in the front.

    Can anyone tell me if there are sensors in the rear of a 2004 CR-V?

    Thanks so much for any info you can give!!!
  • richk6richk6 Member Posts: 87
    When you are hit from the rear, your body is pushed back against the seatback and headrest absorbing the impact. The airbag should inflate during a frontal collision when your body is pushed forward to absorb the impact.

    I don't believe there are any rear sensors to inflate the front airbags.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    There is no reason for the air bags to go off when you are rear ended. The air bags are there to prevent you from slamming into the steering wheel when you adbruptley stop the forward motion, such as you rear ending someone. In many new cars the air bags won't go off if the seat belts are not on.
  • rbl00rbl00 Member Posts: 3
    Well I have to disagree and I have 12 stitched and a fractured jaw to prove it. After I was hit my body jerked back to the seat as you say it should but then was thrown forward into the steering wheel where my chin was split open and my jaw was fractured. So to go by what you say "The air bags are there to prevent you from slamming into the steering wheel" the air bag should have been there to prevent my injuries. If there were sensors in the rear I would have nothing more than a few scratched and maybe some air bag burn, not 12 stitched and a fractured jaw from hitting the steering wheel.
  • defieldingdefielding Member Posts: 35
    This is obvious, but sometimes the obvious is overlooked. My wife had a similar experience on her Corolla and just put up with it for quite some time until I found that her rubber floor mat was not laying flat on the floor but was jammed against the clutch pedal's arm, thus keeping it from disengaging normally. In the long run that rubber floor mat ended up costing me a lot of money for a new clutch.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Well I have to disagree and I have 12 stitched and a fractured jaw to prove it. After I was hit my body jerked back to the seat as you say it should but then was thrown forward into the steering wheel where my chin was split open and my jaw was fractured. So to go by what you say "The air bags are there to prevent you from slamming into the steering wheel" the air bag should have been there to prevent my injuries. If there were sensors in the rear I would have nothing more than a few scratched and maybe some air bag burn, not 12 stitched and a fractured jaw from hitting the steering wheel.

    Sorry to hear about your injuries, but the air bags are not designed to go off in collision from the rear. The sensors for the dash and steering wheel air bags detect the sudden change in momentum going forward. Even if you purposefully backed up into a tree at full force, the backwards firing airbags, should not go off.

    The simplest explanation of the airbag sensor is to imagine a weight and a string stretched in a horisontal position. If the force on the weight is greated than the force of the string holding it back, the string will break. The weight then closes the circuit that fires the airbags. This is oversimplified explanation. So, there is no reason for the circuit to close if you lift the weight up and releases the tnetion in the string, which is what happens when the vehile is rear ended.

    Were you buckled in when accident happend? Although, it wouldn't have helped much, because I think the seat belt tentioners also work in the forward direction only, but I am not 100% sure.

    If the impact was strong enough to cause you to bounce off the seatback into the steering wheel past the normal tention of the seatbelt. The car is toast. The rear crumple zones should have been crumpled. They are not repairable. Your cargo area hold should look like accordeon. Some less scrupulous shops will pull that part out and make the car roadworthy. But insist on totalling it with your insurance company. Once repaired the crumple zones are not the same.
  • nudealsnudeals Member Posts: 1
    Were you ever able to get this problem resolved? My wife has recently had the same problem with her 2004 CRV. The car has less than 30,000 miles on it and there are times that it will not start when you turn the key. My wife said it seems to happen after she fills up with gas. Dont know what to do - the dealership has been looking at it for a week and they do not know how to resolve the issue. Any suggestions are appreciated.
  • rbl00rbl00 Member Posts: 3
    blueiedgod,

    Thanks for the info, and the sympathy, my jaw is sore but getting better.

    I did have my seatbelt on, but as you thought it was not much help. I was just trying to find out if there were sensors that should have set off the air bags, that just seems like a given to me. I have air bags I feel safer, apparently I was wrong and air bags are not the big comfy blanket the auto industry would like you to believe.

    I am still concerned why the seatbelt did not hold me to the seat like I thought it was supposed to. But I guess they are not as much of a safety mechanism as they are thought to be either.

    I can say one thing for sure; I am going to buy a nice big truck this time, since they did total my car (as you said they would). I know some people and I'm sure there are studies that say big trucks are not safer that cars, but I feel safer when I'm in my work truck (a dodge Ram 2500 quad cab).

    Thanks for all your help!!!

    Michael
  • gmoney2gmoney2 Member Posts: 31
    I own a CR-V and a Pilot, and haven't had this problem with either car. However, I seem to recall that several people were complaining about this problem on the Pilot message boards as well. The key has a chip inside of it that your car has to recognize. If it doesn't recognize the chip in the key, then it doesn't start the fuel pump; therefore, your engine doesn't get any gas, and your car won't start (but the engine should still turnover...just not start). Someone on the Pilot message board suggested putting the key in, and waiting a few seconds before turning it (thus, giving adequate time for your car to recognize the chip in the key). If you forget to wait the few seconds and your car doesn't start, then take your key out and re-insert it, then wait the few seconds and try starting (for some reason taking the key out helped rather than just waiting a few seconds and trying again). This seemed to fix the problem for the 5-6 people who were complaining about the problem. Hope this helps.
  • erinleigh101erinleigh101 Member Posts: 3
    Hello! The 'maint req'd' light came on my my 2002 crv a couple of days ago. I reset it myself a while back after having the car services at a local garage. I am unable to reset it this time even though I am doing the exact same thing I did the last time. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
  • romanmromanm Member Posts: 34
    Is the parking brake on the 2nd Gen CRV self-adjusting? Thanks.
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "The key has a chip inside of it that your car has to recognize. If it doesn't recognize the chip in the key, then it doesn't start the fuel pump; therefore, your engine doesn't get any gas, and your car won't start (but the engine should still turnover...just not start)."

    I have also seen suggested that one not have two chip-enabled keys on the same keyring, lest one of them interfere with the other. They are using radio waves, after all.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I can say one thing for sure; I am going to buy a nice big truck this time, since they did total my car (as you said they would). I know some people and I'm sure there are studies that say big trucks are not safer that cars, but I feel safer when I'm in my work truck (a dodge Ram 2500 quad cab).

    One problem though. There is always someone who has a bigger truck than yours. Don't forget the Greyhound buses and 80,000 lbs semi trailers, freight trains...
  • creativeguycreativeguy Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 CR-V and the past 2 days I've noticed puddles under the car which I think are water. I crawled under the car and saw that water was slowy dripping from a black tube. I am assuming that this is the A/C drain tube but I haven't been using the A/C so I'm not sure why there would be any water to drain. Is there any situation where water dripping from this tube WOULD NOT be a normal occurrence?

    Thanks
  • drabindrabin Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same problem with low mileage, and would love some advice.

    I got a 2006 CR-V, LX, Automatic in November. We live in Boston (cold weather) and drive 50% city and 50% highway. I fill it up at local Sunoco statiion mostly, with 87 regular unleaded gasoline.

    We calculate gas mileage at almost every fill-up (miles gone since previous fill-up/# gallons filled). The car now has 3,800 miles on it, and I have never been able to get 20 MGP or greater! We average 18-19 in the city. When we drive all highway (open roads, cruise control, 70-75 mph), we get up to 19.8 (best run!).

    The dealer said to 'wait until it breaks in', but at 3500+ miles, seems like it should be ready. What could be wrong with the car - I plan to take it to a non-dealer mechanic that I trust to get checked out.

    Thanks
  • romanmromanm Member Posts: 34
    I have a 2005 CR-V and the past 2 days I've noticed puddles under the car which I think are water. I crawled under the car and saw that water was slowy dripping from a black tube. I am assuming that this is the A/C drain tube but I haven't been using the A/C so I'm not sure why there would be any water to drain. Is there any situation where water dripping from this tube WOULD NOT be a normal occurrence?

    Have you been using the Defogger feature? When you turn that dial to the Defog position, the A/C automatically turns on (and as I remember, the small green light does not come on).

    I have an opposite problem now on my '05 CR-V: when I use the A/C, there is no water dripping afterwards. And the air blowing from the vents is not really cold. I guess I lost some refrigerant (leak in the system?).
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I am having the same problem with low mileage, and would love some advice.

    I got a 2006 CR-V, LX, Automatic in November. We live in Boston (cold weather) and drive 50% city and 50% highway. I fill it up at local Sunoco statiion mostly, with 87 regular unleaded gasoline.

    We calculate gas mileage at almost every fill-up (miles gone since previous fill-up/# gallons filled). The car now has 3,800 miles on it, and I have never been able to get 20 MGP or greater! We average 18-19 in the city. When we drive all highway (open roads, cruise control, 70-75 mph), we get up to 19.8 (best run!).

    The dealer said to 'wait until it breaks in', but at 3500+ miles, seems like it should be ready. What could be wrong with the car - I plan to take it to a non-dealer mechanic that I trust to get checked out.

    Thanks


    1. Despite the EPA's estimations the Automatic is going to be getting lower mileage because of the higher losses associated with it. The only time a Manual CR-V has lwoer fuel efficiency is when it is driven on the highway at 70 mph or more.

    2. It is winter and winter gas has more MTBE or whatever the additive MA uses for winter gas to increase the evaporation point. It lowers your fuel efficiency. Wait until gas stations swith to summer gas with less additive.

    3. I don't know for sure, but Sunoco may be using Gasohol, which is a mix of gasoline and Ethanol. It will lower the fuel efficiency as well. Try a brand that uses pure gasoine such as Exxon/Mobil.

    4. See is there is any "dead weight" in the car. Items that you don't need anymore, like a snow shovel, bags of sand, and other junk that people carry in their cars. Every pound counts when it comes to fuel economy.

    5. Your rate of acceleration will have a great effect on fuel economy. Next time you take off at the light, follow a fully loaded semi. See how long it takes him to get up to speed. This will probably give you the next best fuel savings (manual being first, but you already bought a car and can't change that)

    6. See what air pressure you have in your tires. Honda recommends something very ridiculously low like 26 psi. I run 33-34 up front and 29-30 in the rear.

    7. After the first oil change at 5000 miles, make sure you use 5W-20 and preferrably Synthetic, a true Synthetic like Mobil 1, Amsoil, Red Line, and not highly purified dyno like Valvoline and Castrol.

    By the way, EPA estimations on the window sticker are based on 49 mph maximum speed, and very leisurly take off.
  • jellyfishjellyfish Member Posts: 3
    My '00 CRV was hit from behind once (not terribly hard, but a real good jolt), and the bags did not go off.
  • jellyfishjellyfish Member Posts: 3
    I have a '00 CRV with real-time 4WD, auto, four speed. There are about 63k miles on it.

    Lately I've noticed a kind of low, rumbling sound coming from the rear end of the car--only in certain situations where I'm moving slow and making very sharp turns with the wheel such as in a parking lot, pulling into or backing out of my driveway or a parking space, etc. My inclination is to think it has something to do with the rear transaxle components, but not sure. No indication of fluid leaks or anything like that.

    I would like to avoid taking in but need to know if anybody has experienced this. How did you handle it and what was the outcome?

    Thanks,
    Jason
  • romanmromanm Member Posts: 34
    Every pound counts when it comes to fuel economy.

    Just curious -- how much gas can you save (in terms of mpg) by leaving the spare in the garage (along with the jack -- not much use without the spare)? :)
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Just curious -- how much gas can you save (in terms of mpg) by leaving the spare in the garage (along with the jack -- not much use without the spare)?

    Whatever you save will be lost on that one occasion when you need a tow truck to fix that flat on a cold rainy night miles from town. :)

    tidester, host
  • romanmromanm Member Posts: 34
    Whatever you save will be lost on that one occasion when you need a tow truck to fix that flat on a cold rainy night miles from town.

    Yes, you are right, it's just not worth it :)
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    Might be time to change the fluid in the rear AWD components.
  • klanksterklankster Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a new 2006 CRV back in March 2006. When I put the car in gear, there is a low vibration / rumble that seems to be caused by the transmission. It isn't as bad when it is in Park. I took it back to the service department at the dealership and was told it is normal. Has anyone had this problem?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Just curious -- how much gas can you save (in terms of mpg) by leaving the spare in the garage (along with the jack -- not much use without the spare)?

    Whatever you save will be lost on that one occasion when you need a tow truck to fix that flat on a cold rainy night miles from town.

    tidester, host


    Not if you have AAA or Honda care (comes with roadside assitance) :-)

    I was not talking about the tire and jack, which do add about 50 lbs. But in general people have too much junk in the car, that adds up. Every 100 lbs is 13 HP.

    A heavier driver will have worse fuel economy than a light weight driver. And we all know that people who drive CR-V's range from 100 lbs wet to 300 lbs. dry :-)
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