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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • crv4mecrv4me Posts: 10
    Great Info! How would one know if the OEM Bridgestone Dueler tires are the affected lot manufactured in England? Can you provide some information at to how to check the manufacturer's markings on the tires to see if they might also be causing some handling issues? Thanks for the post! This may help many of us who have handling issues with the 05's. Honda seems to be pretty guarded regarding these complaints. I opened an issue with American Honda and have not gotten so much as a response. Seeing as the dealerships always start with tire rotations, then alignments, maybe they know something is plaguing the tires. Good you have a quality dealership!
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    First, I never would have taken a car that hadn't been detailed. But it's too late now, so the next best thing I'd do is raise holly h*ll with American Honda. Maybe they can put some pressure on the dealer to take it back.
  • autobumautobum Posts: 11
    The service manager I spoke with said that there is a lot designation code with the letter "S" in it . He also said that only a certain lot or lot(s) were affected and not all the Bridgestone Duelers produced in England are faulty. He further indicated that the only way to really tell whether a particular tire is bad or not is to put it on a special balancing machine that indicates not only balance, but also how true the tire tracks. In addition, he indicated that this needs to be done after the tires have been driven for a while, suggesting some sort of latent behavior relative to the manufacturing defect. Evidently some of these tires were constructed/built incorrectly, and the defect does not produce hop, vibration, or balance issues, but does cause tracking issues at higher speeds (~40 mph and above on my car).

    The tire that they identified as faulty on my car was from the bad lot and also looked bad when they tested it on the machine. This tire was moved around to different wheels and acted poorly in either front position, but did not produce noticeable pull when on the rear. It is now in the spare position waiting for a replacement. Also, all my tires look to be from the suspect lot and need to be checked more thoroughly.

    Perhaps there are other legitimate issues related to PTTR, but I surely hopes this ends up helping at least some of us with this issue.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,677
    I can't believe any dealer would deliver an undetailed car!! Really??
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,677
    Sorry, but this is not a "design oversight". It was just plain bad luck.

    Stuff happens and that could have happened to any car.

    I wouldn't bother installing a shield either since the chances of this happening agian are miniscule.
  • tntitantntitan Posts: 306
    I have always insisted that if the dealer tried to prep my car that I would not take delivery. Most of them give you beautiful swirl marks when they polish, wax or even wash a car. I inspect my paint more closely than anything on the car. I would just keep the loaner until they fix your paint.
  • shizzleshizzle Posts: 2
    and i'm trying to take out the factory head unit, but i can't figure out how it comes out. Has anyone done it before that can help me out.
  • theracoontheracoon Posts: 666
    The insurance company claims that the owner's manual says that a rear hitch is not allowed to be installed therefore we could not make a claim for them to fix this.

    They have their information wrong (they're lieing!). Honda sells an accessory trailer hitch for the 1st Gen CR-V, so the Owners Manual would not include information saying that trailer hitches weren't allowed.

    Good luck.
  • Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone has any of the small metal center caps with the Honda "H" on it that fit on the first generation CRV steel wheels. I require 2 of them and Honda wants $45.00Cnd apiece for them here in Calgary, Canada. I thought if anyone had a wreck or upgraded their wheels from the steel ones and no longer required the centre caps I could buy them off you. Thanks
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 28,434
    Are you sure that isn't $45C for a set of four? Wow..that seems like a lot..(guess you thought so too).

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    I just did a quick search on ebay and there's an item of ONE cap for $31.....wow.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7970024732&category=439- 61

    He has all 4 but the bidding is per cap.

    There's another item though with a price of $5.99

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7970207965&category=439- 61&sspagename=WDVW
  • codestercodester Posts: 9
    I recently replaced the same kinds of caps for a 97 Accord and was quoted a similar price in the U.S.. I went to a local dealer in second hand hubcaps and got it for US $14.00. I've seen second hand hubcap distributors on the web, although I don't remember the names. You may want to Google and give that a try.
  • I have a problem with my 2004 CRV. I've had it now for about 8 months and I do mostly city driving. I'm getting 13-14 MPG which is 40% less than dealer estimate. The dealer has not been any help at all and suggested that I speak with a regional service manager. Is anyone getting comparable mileage?
  • varmintvarmint Posts: 6,326
    Dude! That's the lowest mileage I've ever seen for a CR-V. :lemon:

    What has the dealer done for you so far? My first thought is to check and see if the parking brake isn't partially engaged.
  • I'm getting another brand new CR-V :shades: !!! The dealership agreed to take back the defective paint car and replace it with another!! I get to pick it up on Monday!! Quite frankly, I'm surprised at this.... but happy nonetheless!!

    I'll bet this time it will have a spit shine on it (hopefully not literally!) when I pick it up.... and you can bet it won't leave the lot if it doesn't!!!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 28,434
    Wow... good deal.. I'm stunned..

    MODERATOR
    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • The dealer told me that if the check engine light isn't on, there's nothing for him to do. He ran an emissions check and said that everything is fine.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,792
    Are you a "jackrabbit start" person? The CR-V is very sensitive to all city mileage, especially starts and stops. I got 18.5 MPG on one fill up, and have since changed my driving style:

    1. Set tire pressure to 35 PSI.

    2. Accelerate slowly, that is, don't allow the RPMs to exceed 2500; if you back off of the pedal slightly, the car will downshift. Obviously, emergencies and freeway on-ramps are an exception. I find that "really slow" acceleration actually reduces MPG; the "brisk" but not too harsh method has been better for me. Along these lines, I think that the computer on the CR-V "learns" your driving patterns, so you may have to change styles for a while before the car catches on.

    3. I attempt to keep my RPMs at about 1500 -1700 at 35 MPH, which should be quite possible on fairly flat terrain. Amazingly, when I first began watching my RPMs, I discovered that I was using 1900 - 2000 RPMs at 35 MPH, simply because I wasn't being careful and was allowing the RPMs to creep up. So I discovered that it is my choice to go either 1700 (on average) or 1950 RPMs.

    4. If you use the same route every day, see if you can speed up (slightly) or slow down (reasonably) between stop lights, so that you don't have to stop, but rather slow down, at stop lights. The CR-V weighs between 3350 (LX FWD) and 3500 (EX) lbs, and that is a lot of steel and plastic to get moving. If you can get through that light by slowing down rather than stopping, it will really help. I highly recommend using a sensible approach to this idea, and not annoying every other driver on the road. I have found I can manage to be frugal and not obnoxious to others who want to rush ahead so they can stop at that next red light.

    I get about 21.5 - 22 MPG in the city now. Not great, but acceptable for an SUV. BTW, I get 26.5 - 27 MPG at a constant 78 MPH when I am on the freeway during vacations. At high altitudes and speeds of around 65 MPH, I have achieved between 29.5 and 31 MPG. But that occurs very rarely.

    I have a 2003 EX.
  • theracoontheracoon Posts: 666
    I'm getting 13-14 MPG

    How are you measuring and calculating your mileage? Miles driven divided by fuel tank size? Or actual miles driven divided by the actual amount of fuel you put in the tank?

    non-car smiley
  • theracoontheracoon Posts: 666
    the Honda "H" on it that fit on the first generation CRV steel wheels. I require 2 of them and Honda wants $45.00Cnd apiece for them here in Calgary, Canada.

    In the US, the list price for the 1st Gen steel wheel center caps is about US $23.That should be less than $30 Canadian. They're available on the internet for about US $19 + shipping.

    non-car smiley
  • bob05bob05 Posts: 27
    What an excellent post Stevedebi;

    If everybody drives their CRV this way, they are likely to get 22 mpg in the city. I learned to drive this way from my second car --a Prius hybrid--and then applied it back to the 05 CRV with this result:

    Jan-April 1, 05: very cold New England Winter with lots of defrosting and heating: average = 22.8 mpg.

    Since April 1: 24.6 mpg.

    This is almost totally inter-suburban commuting at about 35 mph, with a gaggle of very short trips (soccer, groceries) on weekends. Part of every other tank (so perhaps 25%) is at highway speeds.

    The only thing I would add to Stevedebi's excellent advice is something I learned from the hybrid: we waste a ton of gas driving up to stoplights and signs. I use the "football field" approach: since I know my route, I watch 100 yards ahead. If there is a red light, I simply coast --why spend money to get to a stop? As Stevedebi points out, you then have to spend money to re-accelerate. If I see it turn green at 50 yards or even as I approach the "red zone" (sorry), then I go back to the gas...but I still have some momentum on my side. And I think Stevedebi is right that "brisk" acceleration will gain you some momentum, and then you switch to a smooth drive at RPM's under 2000. The investment in acceleration will gain you momentum and mileage so long as you smooth it out after 35mph.

    One other thing: in the suburbs: why not coast down hills, especially if there is a stop sign or light at the end?

    The numbers above speak pretty clearly: 22.8 in a dead cold winter is pretty good. And I don't have any trouble with traffic. These are 30 or 35 mph zones, with local cops always setting speed traps at commuting time to catch those at 40 or above. So I am saving on speeding tickets too.

    Anyhow, Stevedebi has it down. I would almost think he has a hybrid too.
  • fboydonfboydon Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I had this same problem on my 2002 CR-V. I only notice this I had my car serviced for brake pads. I had to go back twice to the dealer for them to look at it. And on my second visit I told them it happens only when turning hard left/u turn. Where do you think can I get TSB and what is TSB anyway. The technician told me He already recall he had this problem before but Hes not sure if my car will still be under warranty since I already got 61kmiles on it. Is TSB same as a recall?

    Just want to find out if I am going to pay for something that's Honda's issue...

    Thanks,
    Ferdee
  • lblairlblair Posts: 11
    We got our CR-V right after Christmas, and love it.Traded our gas-hog Land Rover Disco. Everything was going fine until about a month ago. Got in it one morning , turned the key.. and "click" was all I got. Did it 3 more times and then it started right up. Hmm? I thought I did something wrong. Never mentioned it to my husband. A week later we were going out in it together and it did it to him. He then told me it had happened a few times to him at work, when he went out to lunch or when he stopped for gas. So it wasn't me. I called the dealer and then said bring it in and leave it. They don't have loaners, which is a total drag. The dealer is 40 miles away. They couldn't take it for a few days, so when it didn't happen again, I cancelled the appt. A week went by, all was fine. Last week was the topper.. I was on my way out of town to meet up with a friend. I was gassing up and "click" EIGHT times. I was just about to call a tow truck and it started. Someone on another forum said it could be because I have other keys on my key ring, but my husband doesn't have anything, just the Honda key. The green key light doesn't flash or anything. It's steady. How likely is it that we both have defective keys? What the heck else could it be? I must say I am really disappointed in this vehicle. it's brand new. It was a bit humiliating sitting there with my friend as a passenger. She had bought a Ford Escape at the same time we got the Honda.She says "I told you you should have gotten the Escape". I don't like Fords, and told her I would never own an American car, that Honda was more reliable. Now I look pretty stupid.. thanks to Honda
    I suppose it will have to go to the dealer, but I don't see how they can reproduce the problem. Both my husband and I have tried and it only does it randomly. Any ideas?
    Thanks for bearing with me!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 28,434
    TSB
    Technical Service Bulletin..

    I don't have the actual reference number.. The service advisor can pull it up on the internet.. My service advisor had never heard of the problem, but that is what he did, and he had no trouble finding it..

    I doubt you will get it done under warranty, and it is not the same as a recall.. I think it was a transmission mount.. they loosen it, then shove it over about a half-inch, then tighten it back down.. I didn't pay for it, but it is only a half-hour of labor, which is $36 at my dealer.. They weren't positive that was the problem, but since they couldn't find any other problem, they assumed that was it, and it did solve the problem.. For $36, it can't hurt to find out.. It sounds more than minor, but it really isn't.... very simple fix..

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • mikefm58mikefm58 Posts: 2,882
    Outstanding.......

    Kudos to the dealership, and maybe Honda regional twisted their arm a bit. Sure sounds like a complete turn around from when you picked it up.

    I'm sure Honda regional "ripped em a new one" since they delivered a vehicle that wasn't prep'ed.
  • fboydonfboydon Posts: 2
    kyfdx
    Thanks Men.
    I just found out the TSB number on the other site i think alldata.
    The technician who drove my car last week seems positive that it is in did the transmission mount problem, and yes he did say that he needs to loosen some nuts so that he can move the transmission/engine to the right...
    For those who have the same problem please refer to this TSB that I goe from alldata site.

    TSB 04-005 Jan 04 Engine/Transmission Mount - Noise
    on Left Turns

    Cheers,
    Ferdee
  • hitecprohitecpro Posts: 2
    I recently bought honda crv 02 from private owner and have question about climate control: it has 3 wheels to manipulate temperature inside the car, when I turn right wheel to the position "window" or "window/legs" a/c light goes on and can’t be turn off, aircondition starts working(check pipes under the hood-they getting cold), when I turn the wheel to other position for example “face/legs”, a/c button can be turn off/on. Is it how it supposes to work? Called service at local Honda, they said that’s how it works.
    I appreciate if someone check it and may be I have nothing to worry about.
  • defieldingdefielding Posts: 35
    lblair: before you get down on your vehicle the solution sounds like it could be very simple. It sounds like what happens when one or both of your battery cables are either a little loose or corroded. There will be enough electricity to run lights and things but often not a good enough connection for starting, thus will work sporadically. If you see any corrosion, clean the battery terminals with baking soda and water, (rubbing with a wire brush). Carefully tighten the bolts holding the cables to the battery terminals. Also follow the cable from the negative pole of the battery to where it connects to the vehicle (for grounding) and see if the bolt connecting it there is tight. If this is not the cause of the problem, then another possibility could be the starter motor brushes.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,792
    " Anyhow, Stevedebi has it down. I would almost think he has a hybrid too."

    Nope, I'm still paying for my CR-V, and the only one that would fit my needs is the Escape Hybrid, which I wouldn't buy in the first year anyway. Our other car is a Honda Civic (bought just before the HCH came out), and we need one of our two cars to have a large capacity for trips.

    I learned my stuff from the Prius forum. I don't think I'll be able to match your 24.6; you have a 5 speed transmission in that '05, whereas I have the 4 speed.
  • stevedebistevedebi LAPosts: 3,792
    " I doubt you will get it done under warranty, and it is not the same as a recall.."

    TSB is a safety fix, and should be covered by Honda at no cost to the consumer.
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