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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying

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Comments

  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    I agree and believe all of those variables you mentioned played some kind of role, small or large, in why I was faster on Sunday. The course was a ton of fun, and my car felt stronger than usual (probably due to the nice cold air). Whatever the reason(s), a win is a win in my book. The guy I beat, who is the STS champ from last year, was a real gentlemen about it, too. He came up to me after everything was over to say congrats and great driving. That's one of the great things about the Solo II crowd at the regional level, most folks really go out of their way to be helpful and courteous, and are pretty good sports, too.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    My car always feels more powerful & responsive in the winter. The CAI sucks in real COLD air in the winter, and not 80-90deg warm air like in the summer time. Definitely better than 150deg. air that factory or warm intakes take in.
    A win is a win, even if the guy was driving with 1 good eye. That's right. Show them how it's done! (that's what the announcer said over the speakers when I got FTD at the end of the morning runs at Rye Playland, a NYR SSCA sanctioned auto-x, and it felt great). Let it feel good and be proud. Kick those non-Acura/Honda cars' butts! :-)
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I 'm not familiar with that intake you mentioned. The AEM is famous for the highest power & torque gains on Integras, especially VTEC ones.
    Are you asking whether you should do the hood or the CAI first? Flip a coin.. I would 've done the exhaust last. The CAI would 've made your car noticeably more powerful. The exhaust gains you can only feel at high speeds and slightly at very high RPMs. The CAI is noticeable throughout the REV band.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    best brake link I 've ever seen!! You have to read this.

    http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm


    I 've read many but this one seems to be the best so far.

    It talks about a lot of the myths associated with warped rotors, their association with pads, facts about street pads, high end street/race pads, race pads, bedding them in properly, etc. A lot of it we know already but I learned some new things too. This guy goes into detail about how the pad & rotor work together and different variations of symbiosis between the 2 and failure scenarios. The guy who wrote this apparently worked for Shelby and did a long term brake study. Good stuff. Got it off the H-T competition forum.

    I 'm glad he confirmed (and that it 's not a myth) that high end street/race pads with high heat limits don't grip as well when they 're cold. Now I know for sure my Axxis pads are more for racing than street because they 're not as good when cold. He also seems to favor carbon metallic pads (more recent) over semi-metallic ones for various technical reasons he discusses plus less chances of warpage. I think my MMs are semi-metalic (not 100% sure though), not sure about the Porterfield R4S that I may switch to this season (just to see if they 're better). The R4 I believe is carbon-metallic but a bit too much for street and I hear they don't grip for anything when cold or in cold weather so they tend to be a little dangerous. Like the guy says, there 's no such thing as a good all around street/race pad. There are pads that are good for street and low speed stopping and those that work best when hot or stopping from higher speeds.

  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Get the AEM CAI since you have a GS-R--it is definitely the most cost-effective thing you can do powerwise on your car. CF hoods are controversial because some people say brand X fits better than Y and then someone else will say the complete opposite. Unless you get a really cheap quality one, you should not be worried about it breaking. The worst things to worry about are fitment and making sure it doesn't fly up on the freeway because it wasn't closed correctly (get hood pins). Go to groupbuycenter.com for good prices on both of these things (coximport.com Ianmichael for the intake). Still, I would drive my car stock longer if I were you.
  • What about COMPTECH Ice Box with Short Ram Intake. See Team-Integra.com (when the site is restored) for HP gains versus AEM CAI.
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Sure, I've heard it's great...but integraguy16 only asked us what order he should get the stuff in so I didn't put much thought into what intake he should get. From what I have heard, people go with Comptech so they don't hydrolock their engines (something that can't happen with the Ice Box, but has a possibility of happening with the AEM--if you are an idiot) but I'm not sure which one gives you more power. However, the Box is more expensive. Lots of satisfied customers with both products.
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    Harry, yes, that article was incredibly well done. I really like the way he dispelled a lot of the common mis-information about brakes, how they work, and brake failure. I'm going to file that baby away for future reference.
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    ditto on the great article...thanks Harry
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    that was a great article. Answered a bunch of my questions. Thanks
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Hey Casey, and everyone else, if you see a good post on H-T again about camber & toe discussions by auto-x champs let us know. Dave Fauth did not answer my questions when I asked him what toe & camber he 's running up front. I 'm sure he 's gone over it before and just didn't want to bother. He used to say "it's a secret" but I think he 's revealed them to others.. I did a search but gave up too soon. Didn't have the patience :) It 'll be interesting to see what happens when Dave goes up against Daddio in DSP this year with his new (used) RWD BMW 325is, that is if Daddio will stay in DSP with his Neon.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    I'm going to get a custom exhaust made, and I was wondering if $80 was a good price for mandrel bent, aluminized steel piping and all associated welding. Also, 2.25 in is good enough for NA, right? and 2.5 in is good for top end, but the low end will suffer right? just making sure. Thanks.
  • zmpzmp Posts: 24
    Hi everyone, I wanted to get your help and advice on solving a major problem I'm experiencing with a 1999 Acura Integra GSR I just bought a month ago. This car is a Certified Acura car, which means that it had to meet some standards before certification. A 150-point inspection must be done to the car prior certification. I bought my car in Jackonsville, two hours from Orlando, where I live. While driving to Orlando, I noticed some odd noises and vibrations in my car. My brakes need to be replaced, and the master cylinder is leaking (according to an inspection made by Acura in Orlando) just to name a couple of problems with the car. I have called the manager of the dealership in Jacksonville to let them know of the situation, and to get the money to fix the brakes, I also sent him a fax because he never answered my phone calls. It has been almost two weeks and I have not heard from him yet. I called Acura Client Services, but they said that they cannot do anything to help me, and that I had to talk to the manager of the store which I tried already.

    I don't know what else to do, and I'm getting very frustrated and upset. Please let me know if you know a way to get out of this situation. Thank you so much
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    $80? sounds like a great deal!! Is that from the CAT back? or axle-back? What about a free flow muffler? You got the 2.25 & 2.5" right..
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I recommend you keep calling the dealer's General Manager or the dealership owner. If I were you I 'd drive down there and talk to them and ask them why they 're not returning the calls. It is illegal for them not to fix your car or pay to have it fixed. By law most dealers have to warranty the car for 90 days. Just tell them you 'll take them to small claims court if they give trouble. Don't let them BS you. Make sure they understand that the trouble started on the first day when you picked up the car. They might want you to bring the car to them so they don't have to pay the other dealer. If the Master Cylinder is going, then it can be very dangerous to drive the car because the brakes can malfunction. Ask them to pay for a tow truck if they want to work on the car (I doubt they 'll do that).
    It's funny you mentioned M/C. I had a Master Cylinder go bad on me too on my '99 GSR but I didn't know it. I just knew the brakes were working horribly and had to keep my distance from other cars. I was probably braking with only 2 wheels. Anyway, just keep bugging them and you can call the district attorney's office too in Jacksonville and speak to an Asst. DA and tell them what happened. They are violating state & county laws by refusing to fix your car. Does this car have over 50k mi? If not, then it's under warranty by Acura or until 2003. The Master Cylinder should be covered anyway. Not the brake pads or rotors. Good luck!
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    Yeah, it's a cat-back. Also got a straight through muffler by hayame. 2.5 inlet, 2.5 through, 4 inch tip. On this other guy's car, it sounded pretty good, and it's deep, not like a bumblebee fart.
  • chem123chem123 Posts: 272
    Simply threaten to take them to a small claims court and that should do the trick. Good luck.
  • cjhannancjhannan Posts: 201
    Really sorry to hear about the problems with your GSR. Please tell us again what year it is and how many miles are on it. As Harry mentioned, I would be relentless and persistent about calling the dealership and trying to contact the GM or the owner. Those folks hate to be harassed by unhappy customers and usually ask someone to take care of your situation so they don't have to hear about it any more. But it could be a long process, unfortunately. Did the dealership you bought from have anything like a 30-day warranty from the date of purchase on your car? Even if you're over 50k miles, they would be obligated then to cover any needed repairs then. I feel for you, man...
  • zmpzmp Posts: 24
    Wow! Thank you so much for your help and advice. Finally, last night I got a call from the Sales manager in Jacksonville, he said he was going to take care of the brakes, but that I had to drive again to J. to get them fixed, he said that Orlando was charging too much. I called Acura in Orlando, and I am going to tell you these guys have been great to me, they gave me a discount to save me the trip to Jacksonville, and they are also going to make an inspection to my car to make sure that everything else is all right. I'll let you know how it goes, and thanks again.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Didn't I say the Jacks. dealer would want you drive the car to them? They don't want to pay "retail" to have your car fixed. Anyway make sure they agree to pay the discounted price Orlando is charging. Looks like everything is working out now. There are good dealers out there and there will always be crappy ones. I have the same thing up here. 15-20mi. away is Fedder's Acura. They stink, they treat you like you own a Chevy Cavalier and they have a totally different tone of voice and attidute towards you than does Curry Acura where I bought the car which unfortunately is 50mi. away. These people at Curry would do anything so you 're happy. They don't want to see you leave mad or disappointed. They even wash your car after every visit :) That's the difference between an Acura Precision Team dealer and a non-Precision dealer. BTW, if you look at acura.com, Florida has the most precision team dealerships than any other state! NY only has 1 compared to like 8-10 in FL!
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