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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying



  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    You like close competition ^_^ That's great. Why do you want to get a new crank pulley? About the exhaust, get a custom one done. Not only will it be cheaper, you can have it look like you want and sound like you want. There's a guy here that has a straight through muffler, actually a cherry bomb, but by using resonators, the exhaust it extremely quiet. What did you do with your old suspension setup? FTD, I'll be really happy when that day comes for me. Until then, I'll be happy with a good standing in the novice class =)
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    A lighter crank pulley frees up HP and transfers it to the wheels. Just like the lighter flywheel does. Which is why you rev the motor faster. So instead of losing the usual 15-20% at the wheels, we only lose maybe 10% or less.

    These mods do not add extra HP to the motor, but free up Ponnies from of your existing total HP. This is why BMWs are so quick even though they 're relatively heavy compared to Integras. They only lose about 10% at the wheels, compared to most other cars that lose 16,17,18% or more.
    When I dynoed my car stock it was exactly an 18% loss by the time power got to the wheels! Type-Rs lose an average of 17%.
    BTW, I had my car corner weighted and it weighed exactly 2595 without me in it, with no spare or jack. I still had many CDs in it and the glove compartment was full of stuff. That's not bad. I figured most of the weight reduction came from the stock air box and resonator which is said to be about 10-15lbs more than the AEM CAI, lighter flywheel (7+lbs) and probably 15lbs from the shocks as the Advance Designs are very light and made out of titanium. I couldn't believe how light they were compared to the Konis. And the Konis are slightly lighter than the factory shocks.
    The GSR intake manifold is very heavy as well which is why I want to get an aftermarket one. I picked up a new Skunk2 GSR manifold they had on display at the front of the shop, and it was extremely light. Maybe 15lbs. The GSR intake manifold is all cast iron and at least twice as heavy and more. It also gives you a couple of extra whp since it allows more air in. The only thing is that it has single runners so you don't hear the secondaries like we do now at 5800RPM (speedo may show 6k because it's off) which is somewhat exciting. Most people think that's VTEC kicking in but it's not. That's just the secondary runners opening up on the intake manifold, sucking in more air. VTEC activates around 4600 RPM (or 4800 I forget).
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    going to get the crank pulley, make sure it's balanced. My friend had a lightened one, and it totally destroyed the crank due to the unbalanced pulley.

    How does the car handle now that you've corner weighted it? Also, how often are you in the low rpm's? I hear that the low-end torque loss is pretty significant with the skunk2 manifold.
  • meehowmeehow Posts: 6
    I'm looking to get a car and I found a '96 GSR w/ 70k on it for $7,000. I looked at the car today. It's not in great condition, but its pretty good. There's some samll paint chips on the front bumper and some small scratches on the right door. Also, theres some paint damage on the back bumper, but no body damage. The owner says someone with a trailer hitch backed into him. Other than that theres only a couple small things wrong; no tweeter on right side, clock doesn't work, cieling scratched inside. I had the car looked at and everything checked out. However, there are 2 problems that I'm afraid may be serious. The SRS and ABS lights are on. The SRS one is pretty serious b/c it is illegal to drive with this light on and its also "illegal" to sell a car with this light on. More importantly this might be an indication of a fairly big problem. This could range from bad wiring or bad sensors to even worse, bad air bags (roughly $1,000 a piece). The ABS light is not as serious IMO as the SRS light, but is still quite important. It could indicate a broken ABS modulator ($250). Another possibility is that the ECU could be broken, which is around $250 plus labor (correct me if I'm wrong). When I notified the current owner of these problems he offered to take it to a Honda/Acura dealer and get it checked out and send me the report of what needs to be fixed. He said he would be then willing to get those things fixed or to drop that amount from the selling price. What do you guys think?
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    was a blast ^_^ $150 for almost 2 hours of track time with instruction. I'm sooooo tired right now. I went at 7:00 am and got home at about 6:00 pm. IMO, it was money well spent. Going into the clinic, I was kinda nervous, because I had never been on a road course, but it was fun regardless. The track was 1.5ish miles long and the max and min speeds I reached were 90 and 20 mph. Hehe, it was fun. There was only passing on the straights, and I had some problems with passing, but oh well.

    Firstly, I'm a novice, so I was put in with all the, well, novices =P There were 2 ac cobras (both were beautiful kit cars), two corvettes, an mr2, a dinan something (turbocharged, 170 bhp), a wrx, and a spec miata. On my first session (7 laps: 1 warmup, 1 cool down, 5 hot) I started last and passed everybody by the end of about the 4th lap ^_^ I continued to do this and be very consistent for a total of about 20 hot laps. I made the corvettes, cobras, and the dinan very upset when I passed them. They couldn't believe it, hehe. The general consensus was that it was embarassing enough to be passed by a honda/acura and even worse to be passed by a sedan ^_^

    So, after lunch, my instructor moved me up to a different group, where the drivers are experienced and there are less people than in the student group. My instructor and I did a follow-the-leader thing, and I was able to stay with him for the first 2 hot laps. Then, on the third, I passed him ^_^ I was so happy!! On the fourth lap, he passed me after I made a terrible mistake and scrubbed off a lot of speed. On the fifth lap, at the final straightaway, I was able to catch up to him and pass him again ^_^ It was a good challenge and he was very impressed on how well I had become in a single day. In the beginnning of this year, we went to the track, and he beat me horribly. Now, hehe, I can stay with him and even beat him ^_^ Oh, I guess I should add this in. This whole time my instructor and I were "battling" =P we were both passed by a couple cars, mainly the zo6's, an nsx, and some sort of datsun. So, overall it was a great experience, and I hope to go back soon ^_^
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Sounds like a great idea. Let the owner take it to the dealer so you know exactly what is wrong with the car, what needs to be fixed, and how much money it 'd cost.

    Here's my take on it: If that Integra only has 70k mi. it 's got too many lights on. Integras with 70k mi. don't have ABS and SRS lights on. I think something is going on with this car or something had happened to it. Maybe the ECU or other parts were stolen and he put an aftermarket cheap ECU, etc. don't know.. but you should let the dealer look at it and see what is wrong and ask that you meet him at the dealer lot so you can talk to the mechanics there and ask them what caused all these lights to come on which is unusual for an Acura with 70k mi. Also ask for permission to look under the car while they have it on the lift. Look for signs of an accident, and make sure it's a GSR and not an RS/LS/GS, etc. How did it run? Did you test drive it?
    Good luck.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    sounds like a lot of fun!! Looks like you were born a road racer and I an auto-xer :-) Although I haven't tried road racing yet.. I might 've been born for both :)
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    auto-x'ers make good road racers, but road racers don't always make good auto-x'ers. I think that you'll be awesome on a road course if you go out ^_~

    Well, I don't know what I want to do now. I now know that I can road race with some of the better drivers in the area, but I still can't keep up with them during an auto-x. I need to practice my auto-xing skills, but it's a better value to go lapping at a road course.

    Also, I burned a quart of oil during the lapping sessions. I'm going to be replacing the cam seal cap as well as do a compression check. Also, what is a PCV?
  • Hi Acura/Honda fan club (*smile*),

    It's my first time posting to the forum, but found it very helpful in my quest to find a new car. I had a 1999 Accord EX coming off of lease and refused to pay (overpay!) what they wanted for the car. I considered an RSX (is it me, or is the rear visibility terrible???) and the Celica (cute but I love Hondas).

    One afternoon, I saw him: my 1995 Integra RS, silver, 34K miles!, sexy! The next day, I was driving home my new obsession. So far, I have put about 500 miles on the car and other than forcing the dealer to replace the timing belt (which they couldn't prove had ever been done), I've had no problems.

    All in all, a great little car, great on gas and very zippy! Now, I want a good keyless/security system on my 'baby'. Any suggestions? I don't want to pay a fortune, but I would absolutely KILL if anyone took him...also, any idea on a good place to get a car cover for him?

    -->one hot chic, loving her newly acquired 'Teg!!!
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    Sounds like a great car ^_^ Hope you have lots of fun with it. Also, check to make sure that the water pump has been replaced as well, just in case. Trust me, it's a pain to get that timing belt off. I've done it three times, and each time sucked.

    For an alarm, go to a reputable place. I've heard the stories of little places doing the alarm system, finding out everything about a car, then go and steal it afterwards. I would recommend a "viper" alarm paired up to lo-jack. To my understanding, lo-jack is a system that tells the location of a car if it is stolen, so you have a higher chance of getting it back.

    I found that autozone makes custom car covers, but I don't know if they make one for the integra, but it wouldn't hurt trying.

    Have fun with the teg, and do some suspension and brake modifications before engine mods. It'll be much more rewarding. If you do want to go this route, only1Harry and I will help you with which suspension parts to get.
  • I appreciate the advice! I am loving the car so far. I went to Circuit City last night and they had a DEI Viper Keyless/Alarm system on sale ($239 including all parts and installation), so I decided to go with that. I plan to get it on this weekend. Lojack sounds like a good idea, too...not sure if they can add it on with that alarm system...will pester the techs. :)

    I forced the issue, so the car dealership replaced the timing belt (at no cost to me) and all other hoses/belts, but I wasn't savvy on the water pump issue at the time!!! :( So, for now, I will keep an eye on it and since the car is under extended warranty, get it done when I take in for an oil change? For now, I don't have any apparent problems with it.

    I'll check on the car cover this weekend too -- I am having such fun!

    Now, what was that about 'brake modifications'? As far as 'suspension' work, I don't plan on racing my new baby...

    In a few weeks, I will try to have a digital pic of the car to post on this site. :)
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    Before I go into brakes and suspension, remember this. Your life is riding on these two things. Don't go cheap on brakes or suspension.

    Just to make the car more fun to drive, and also safer, braking and suspension modifications are good. I would recommend in getting some new brake pads, rotors, fluid, and maybe brake lines. Now, if all of that looks good, then don't worry about it.

    Integra's are pretty good when it comes to having a good stock suspension setup, but there's lots of room for improvement. Lowering the car is a good first step, not only will it look better, it'll handle better as well. Depending on where you are, and your ambitions to make the car look better, I would recommend a 1.5 inch maximum drop. Any farther than this, and an alignment will not be able to save your tires. Eibach, Neuspeed, H&R, and Comptech are good spring manufacturers.

    When lowering a car, the shocks must also be upgraded, or else the extra wear from the lowering springs will cause the stock shocks to wear prematurely. Getting aftermarket shocks designed for lowered cars will solve the problem. Look for Koni, Tokiko, and Bilstein for shocks.

    The most bang-for-the-buck suspension modification is upgrading the rear sway bar. Getting one from an Integra Type-R is the cheapest way to go, and will be easiest on the wallet. Some sway bar makers are Comptech, Suspension Techniques, Neuspeed, and Progress.

    If you ever get a chance, try to find a local scca (sports car club of America, auto cross event. If you find one, go to it and just watch or even ask for a ride.

    Finally, this board isn't as active as some, and we don't have all the answers. I would recommend or as great resources for information. Although, Harry is a great source of information when it comes to suspension and auto crossing ^_~
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    good luck with your 'new' Integra!

    Don't listen to Garados. He tends to get a little carried away some times :-) Enjoy the car stock the way it is. If and when you start to get tired of it or used to it, a year from now let's say, then come back and ask us what you can do to make it more exciting. The Integra can be an exhilerating car to drive if you only spend a "little bit" of money on it. They can handle amazingly which makes them a lot more fun to drive. With a little suspension modding, it 'll be a whole new experience (for the better).

    You have one of the lightest 3d generation (called g3) Integras ever made. The RS weighs under 2500lbs, due to lack of accessories, so your stock brakes should work pretty well as they 're the same on a GSR that weighs 2650lbs. Just make sure your pads are in good shape as well as the rotors and change the brake fluid every 2yrs with Honda brake fluid only. is a very technical forum and there's tons of information there for those who want to modify their Honda/Acura. It is also a major forum for people that race their Hondas. It can become very overwhelming reading through hundreds of posts (they get about 2,000/day!) but it is for Honda/Acura enthousiasts so you might want to check it out. I 'm sure you 'll find good info on car covers. Just make sure you do a 'search' first, otherwise you 'll be yelled at and told that your question has been covered many times before.
    Most auto parts stores carry decent covers. Just make sure they 're 2 or 3-layer covers that protect the car all year round from the sun as well as rain/moisture. Don't buy a cheap one or anything under $90. Have fun with your Integra! I 'll post one of mine again soon (I can only post my racing pics, I don't have any normal pics of my car sitting in the driveway or something like that.. weird!)
  • meehowmeehow Posts: 6
    The car was in an accident. The front end, A/c, and radiator were replaced. Now you can't even tell that the front has been replaced and the A/C works great. I've taken the car to 2 different shops and both of them said it was fine other than the lights. I'm sure its a GS-R, because I ran a CarFax and RS/LS aren't this quick. Yes I did test drive it. It feels nice and drives smooth, my biggest complaint is the road noise, but I've read this exists in all Integras. Anyways, the guy took the car to the Acura dealer here in town and they told him it needs a new ABS modulator, and a driver's side airbag. The seller said he is going to do this work and show me recipts. He also replaced the broken antena. After these repairs I got him down to $6,750.
    What do you think?
  • meehowmeehow Posts: 6
    A few more questions:

    -What are some of the down-sides of buying a car thats been in a wreck. Other than that its been in a wreck :)

    -How much would a stock front bumper cost(new or used)?

    -How much would a stock rear bumper cost(new or used)?

    -How much would a interior ceiling panel cost and how hard would this be to replace?

    Once again thanks for the input
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    Some downsides to being in a wreck could possibly lead to lots of problems in the future including bad suspension, things just being a little out of whack causing other things to break, etc.

    The stock front and rear bumpers can cost a lot of money if bought from the dealer, upwards of 300 dollars. I think I got quoted 450 for the front bumper. The same goes for the rear bumper. Then again, if bought used, they can be very cheap, like 50 bucks or so. Just look around, and you'll find something.

    I don't know about the ceiling panel, but I don't think it would be hard to replace. Just as the bumpers, shop around. You'll probably find a good deal... hopefully.

    Good luck with the teg =D
  • ...for the input, for now, I am very happy with the car. I'm female graduate Mech'l Engrg student, in school fulltime. So, I just wanted a reliable, fuel efficient, but FUN TO DRIVE car, and my lil Teg is fitting the bill nicely! It will take about 3-5 to get the degree, so then, I would consider making any mods to my car...unless my husband gives me some $$$ to do it! *smile*

    It's funny...I worked in aerospace for a few years before coming back to school to get my Ph.D. in M.E., and so people think that means I should know about cars --- WRONG! I am humble enough to admit that engineers learn the 'theory' and that technicians learn 'practical knowledge'! Now, I like to hang out at my Honda dealer's service dept (I had an Accord before this Acura) and ask questions, and learn what I can from the cool guys there...the Acura service guys are pretty good too, but they don't like my 'silly questions' as much! :)

    Before, I had 2 leased vehicles (a 97 Nissan 200SX and a 99 Accord EX sedan), so I just had the oil changed, took them for service, put gas in, and went on with life! (Hey, what can I say, I'm a girly-girl!) I got sick of the large size of my Accord, and missed the compact size of my old 200SX...I was looking at the Acura RSX and Celicas, but when I saw my Teg, it was no contest--how could they stop making this great car?!?!??! Now, this Teg is my first 'owned' vehicle, so I want to take good care of him and keep him for many years to come.

    I have to admit, learning about cars is pretty fun! I was too busy working with jets to realize how cool cars are. I am learning more everyday and you guys are giving me all kinds of good info.

    (and this forum is a good distraction for when I get tired of studying!) hahahhahahahahhaahaha

    ---Storm's Fury
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    You're getting a degree in M.E.? Me too ^_^ Although, you're a little ahead of me. I'm shooting for a degree within 5 years and I'll be starting my first year at the end of August.
  • Yep, I'm an M.E. too...and a former SAE queen at my undergrad university to boot. :)

    Good luck to you on pursuing your degree. It will be challenging, but's such a broad field. What do you want to do with the degree?

    And a little off topic question for you: where can I go to get a hood pin/lock installed? That's a pretty good idea to keep would-be thieves/scum/bottom feeders from getting inside my car...
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    dang! we 're all (or will be) engineers but I work in the LAN/WAN network engineering field. Sadly enough, most companies are now off-shoring these jobs to India and elsewhere :(
    Over $1B (billion!) of American jobs were offshored last year alone. Our government really stinks to allow this to happen.

    Any garage should be able to install the hood lock. Check with auto parts stores to see what they carry. Also check with car alarm companies since their work is "auto-security".
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Sounds like this car needs many things.
    The price you agreed on is fair if there was nothing wrong with the car. But if you need to pay for bumpers and other interior stuff, then the price of the car will go up to $7500-8K. Check with Kelley Blue Book on line: to see what the price on the car is (in fair condition, not good or excellent), and decide from there.
  • meehowmeehow Posts: 6
    KBB in fair is ~$7,200, in good it's ~$8,000, and I haven't checked excellent, so judging from those it would be a good deal, just wanted to know what you guys thought. Just to clarify the car doesn't need the bumpers or interior, therefore they aren't a top priority for me. They're just something I would consider doing if I got some extra $.
  • I agree, offshore engrg DOES suck. Every other day there is a plant closure. :| That is why I am back in school now!

    AS for the hood pin, thanks for the followup, I will check on that, hopefully get it done this weekend.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    What did you look at? Private sale? or retail price - what a dealer would sell it for?
    Only look at private sale and wholesale/trade-in prices. Then take the average of those 2 and that's the price you should be paying if buying it from a private owner.
  • jimc93sijimc93si Posts: 34
    Hi folks.
    I just bought a 2000 Black GSR. I found it at the credit union repo lot while looking at loan rates. It was just listed as an Integra, so when I drove over there and saw the GS-R label inside the driver door I almost fell over.
     It's in new condition with only 36000 miles on it. Spent its whole life in Florida with one owner and the leather looks like garage-kept. I signed the papers today for 12.5K plus tax. Tomorrow I take it. :)
     My current car is a 93 civic si with 189,000 miles, it still runs and looks fine.
      It's a nice step up from the civic. Everything is in the right place. The only problem I have is I'm 6'3" and the headroom is a little tight. Having been brought up in MG midgets I'm used to confined spaces, so that's not a really big deal.
     What I really wanted was an MR2 Spyder with the sequential shifter, but that's like 30K after taxes etc. and my wife thinks I should give more priorty to the mortgage and the 2 teenagers. Plus, the MR2 had only 1.2 cubic feet of storage and no back seat, which hurts when my daughter wants to bring her girlfriend home from swim practice or something.
     Anyway, this is a great car, I love it. It's never been modified and everything is stock. So, intake first, so I can hear it, then lower profile tires.
    I wish I was driving it now instead of typing on the computer :)
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    sounds like a steal ^_~ I would buy that in a heart beat... if I had the money... but that's a different story =P An intake is a good beginning mod. It sounds good too. Have fun with the car ^_^
  • Dude, what a great purchase! I would have snapped that up for sure! My newly acquired Teg was also an ex-Florida, low mileage, garage kept car.

    Enjoy your new purchase. I am definitely having an 'affair' with mine. :) (And my husband doesn't mind -- much).
    -->Storm's Fury
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Congrats & good luck with it!
    It's funny though, I don't have a GS-R label on the inside of any doors..
    Maybe only the '00 & '01 models had them.. Is it engraved on the door panel, a label, what does it look like? I 'm curious. My '99 doesn't say GS-R anywhere.. I don't think. It only has the DOHC/VTEC sticker in the back.
    You got a good price too!
    Just make sure it has an 8100 RPM red line. It should be a 5-sp. and the valve cover (black) should say DOHC VTEC on it.
    BTW, if it's a GSR, you should be "hearing" it already. GSR gets pretty noisy at 6K RPM when the secondary runners open up. It sounds good. But an aftermarket intake can only improve performance if it's a Cold Air Intake (CAI). Get the AEM CAI. It gives the most HP and torque gains. I gained 12.4 hp at the wheels, and 7.5 ft-lbs of torque at the wheels. It's the best bang for the buck, only $180.
    Just avoid deep puddles and you 'll be ok. My car is lowered over 2-2.25" now and the splash guard was ripped out a month ago while auto-x racing at an SCCA event (It was hanging out pretty low because a screw fell off so I was just asking for trouble). On the way home (80 mi.) it started raining very hard and kept raining till I got home. I was worried because the air filter from the AEM was only about 5.5" away from the ground and totally exposed. I got home fine and I even averaged 65-70 mph. There was also some flooding with about 1" puddles here & there. I checked the filter. It was a little wet but I didn't have any problems. It needs to suck in a lot of water at once to damage the valves or motor. Little tiny dropplets or mist don't do anything.

    As for tires, 205-50-15" is the best size for the stock alloys and they look much better on the car. 205-50s also don't alter your speedometer as much because they 're almost the same circumferance. Don't go cheap on tires! The GSR is a good handling car out of the box, but only with decent tires. Get ZR summer tires if you can. Falken Azenis (Sport) is the best one out there and very inexpensive compared to other Ultra performance tires. Use snow tires in the winter if you 're going to be driving it in light snow or sleet. All season tires will not work well in snow and never do. Use winter tires for that.
    You 're on the right track to make your car a lot more fun to drive. The only other thing that every Integra owner will tell you is an absolute must, besides good tires, is a larger rear sway bar to cut down on body roll and increase your lateral G forces. It helps tremendously when cornering and on long sweepers (skidpad/winding back roads). 22mm is the most common which is the same size on the Integra Type-R. Comptech makes a really good 22mm sway bar that comes with a lower tie bar that also serves as sub-frame reinforcement which we need for anything over 19mm. Your stock rear sway bar is only 14mm. So in order of importance and safety: Tires, rear sway bar, intake. Good luck!
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    I get carried away? Sheesh, you're just as bad as I am =P

    Well, I need to find a compression tester because mine doesn't work >:O My engine is burning oil at a rate that's kinda scaring me. I don't redline that much, but it do get into vtec occasionally, just because my exhaust pops when vtec engages ^_^ If I find that the engine is bad, I'm going to do a swap, probably to a b20b. I'll use that to keep my car running (I can't afford down time, now that school's starting), fix the b18, then swap it back in when I have time. After that, I'll just keep the b20 or just sell it. Would that be a good plan? I don't plan on racing the b20 at all, just in case I forget that it'll explode if I take it to 8100 rpm.
  • jimc93sijimc93si Posts: 34
    Thanks all for the useful comments.
    I live in Tampa, Fl so there's no problem running summer tires all year. Someone on HT suggested the iceman CAI, which uses the same intake port, I think. Massive puddles are a problem here, they are not too deep, but kick up alot of water.
    Just having front & rear swaybars is a nice adjustment from the SI. Once I get used to making payments again (I haven't had any in 5 years) I'll see how much is left over for upgrades.
    The car is a lease return, not a repo as I was initially informed. It is in near mint condition. Yes, it is definitely a GSR. I could have sworn there was a silver metallic label on the drivers door jam, but now there's not. There is a bigger label that says GS-R along with other specs. The valve cover says DOHC Vtec.
    I can't wait to drive it across the bay tomorrow and show the guy who paid list price for his RSX-S :)
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