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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying



  • Is the drop the same on the front and rear?
    Considering that there is an additional 180 lbs (that is me!!!) on the driver side, I think I may have to have the front driver side a bit raised more than the passenger side? Not sure when I can do cross weighing
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    Harry, I have not rolled my fenders. My wheels tuck underneath the fenders when the suspension is compressed, so I'm good in the fender department. If you do attempt it, check out this article. icleID=698

    Bemathew, I would just set all of the springs to the same height and worry about the cornerweighting later. In my opinion, I think you should play around with the ride height for a little bit until you find a good height, then get an alignment and cornerweight it when you're all done.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I finally found a body shop that was willing to roll the rear fenders. Cost me $110 but I have peace of mind. I auto-x last Sunday and they didn't rub in the back at all BUT, one of them rubbed slightly in the front! It's the front driver's side which is lowered slightly more (like 1/8") than the drivers' side.
    How are your engine troubles? All gone?

    Bemathew: What I do with the height when I first get new springs or coilovers, is play with the height in between heats when racing. I try and find the right ride height where the car handles the best. Usually I have to raise the rear a little higher than the front, because when raising, you 're actually putting more weight on the tires. Yes, I know it's confusing. I didn't believe it at first but I saw it on the corner weight scales! Raising the spring perch (height)adds weight to that side/corner! When I got the car corner weighted a couple of weeks ago, I had a 70lb difference in the front. The driver's side was heavier (of course) with me in it. The ideal weight difference in the front should be <60lbs. So we lowered the driver's side 1/4" which took weight off that driver's side (I 'll explain why) and the difference came down to 58lbs and the cross weight went to 50.1/40.9 so we left it alone.

    What happens when you raise one side, is that you are compressing the spring more, so it pushes down on that wheel more, thus putting more weight on the tire. When you lower the car, you 're uncompressing the spring because you 're bringing it lower down the threaded sleeve. This takes weight off the wheel and sometimes it's bad. You do need a certain amount of weight on the wheel to make it stay on the ground and give you better handling, not too much weight of course..

    Naturally if you raise 1 side 2" more than the other side, you will be definitely transferring weight to that other side that is much lower. But we 're talking about small increments here.. Yes, you might add a couple of pounds to the other side, because when you LOWER lets say the driver's side (to take weight off that front left/passenger tire), you 're also lifting the rear right corner of the car. By lifting the rear right corner, you are also slightly transferring weight to the front (right) of the car. So as you see it's not as simple as you thought. For every corner that you adjust, you 're affecting all other 3!

    This is why I play with the height first at the auto-x event if time permits, to try and find out what feels good and makes the car handle better. Some settings will make your car fish tail more, others will make it push, etc. Believe it or not, the car will be very sensitive to any changes to make to the ride height of just 1 or 2 corners! You may not be able to tell, possibly because you are not pushing your car to the limits like I am (with R tires) but I can tell the difference in handling (positive or negative) immediately after the first slalom or first turn, when I make a height adjustment in the pit area. For me right now, I have to raise the rear about 1/2" more than the front to keep weight on those tires in the back, because with 750lb rates in the rear, they tend to want to slide and the car feels like looping all the time. I had the ride heigh a little too low in the rear 2 weeks ago and I looped the car twice. The rear was just too sensitive and wanted to come around all the time. So I raised the rear up and the car became more neutral and the tires in the back were more planted. Why? because by raising (compressing) the springs I added weight to the tires. Sometimes this causes a bit of understeer but I can deal with that because with the more traction in the rear now, I can fly through the slaloms like I used to without having to worry about the car going sideways. I 'd rather gain time in the slaloms and lose a little on the turns. It only pushes slightly on very fast turns or sweepers. In tight courses, you can't tell the understeer is there but I still get some throttle oversteer, if I let go off the throttle so if I find my car pushing I ease off the throttle a little to bring the tail around and rotate the car in order to point it to the next gate or turn or proper direction and then I floor it again. Of course this all happens very fast and I have to be very quick with my reflexes otherwise I will not be able to control the rotation and will spin out.

    So test & tune is very important when you have coilovers. You have to experiment with the height the first 2-3 events to see what works best or what you are most comfortable with. You want the car to be predictable and provide more traction at the same time. You also want to look for slight oversteer when letting off the gas, which is unerving, but is something you must have in order to be fast in auto-x. Understeer is your worst enemy. You want the car to rotate without pushing or with very little pushing. Of course in your situation, since you 're on street tires, you will probably get much understeer because of the lack of traction of the tires or because they have reached their limit. If you can digest half of what I 've said, you 're on your way to a great auto-x carrer :-)
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Once you have adjusted the height where the car feels really good or handles the best, then you MUST do a custom wheel alignment. A good wheel alignment will make the car handle even better and makes a greater difference than just adjusting the height but one must come before the other.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    that's some good info. I can vouch for everything he says. The only thing with me is that I don't have enough time to fiddle in between runs to get the height right =P I did tests on the street (very dangerous, very stupid, but hey, it worked) Just dumped the suspension (3-3.5" drop) and then kept raising all four corners little by little until I stopped rubbing, then went and got a cornerweight and alignment done.

    As for my engine troubles, I'm pretty sure they're mostly all aleviated. The only thing now is that I'm burning oil from my excessive ring gap. I had done that so I could do endurance racing and/or forced induction as per JE's instructions. Speaking of which, I think I may be getting a Jackson Racing Supercharger at the end of the year or so, but I'm trying not to get my hopes up.

    Last thing, I cracked one of my 16's! I'm so mad at pot holes. Anyway, it's on the inside of the wheel, where the tire sits ... yeah, it's cracked right on the very edge of the wheel, so air is escaping through there. The crack is maybe 3/4 - 1" long. I'm wondering if that can be fixed and still be able to handle abuse.
  • I had done my corner weighing some time back...courtesy of our local club. Looks like we will have one soon...till that time, I will play around with the ride heights.I don't think I will get time in between the runs to change the ride height...more over I am not at a position where 1/2" drop will make any difference in my run times.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Sometimes what I do after I put new springs or shocks on, or after the winter, when I 'm ready to lower the car again, I make adjustments in my driveway and then go drive around to make sure the car feels ok, or it's not too lose in the rear, or it doesn't push much. 1/2" can make a big difference in my car with my setup. It could mean the difference of looping the car around or being much faster by keeping the car well planted. For me it also could mean the difference between flying through the slalom or holding back because the car feels unstable or unbalanced. I guess it depends on your level of auto-x expertise and if you drive the car properly to its limits (not overdriving).

    Sometimes it's hard to tell, but after a while I 'm like wait a minute I seem to be 1/2-1sec. slower that those other drivers (you should always compare yourself to several others and keep an eye on their times) after I made adjustments.. so you go back and undo them or make completely opposite adjustments, etc.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    dang you 're having some bad luck!

    I 'm rubbing in the front now since I put the Kosei K1 15x7 38mm offset. I used to have the K1 in 45mm and never rubbed before.

    I rolled up the fenders in the back so I have no rubbing there. Just slightly in the front. I may have to raise the car more which I don't really want to because I lose negative camber everytime I do. I 'm only lowered 1.75" now and the car feels pretty good except it's way too loose in the back since I installed LCA polyurethane bushings. Oh well, if it's not one thing it's another..
  • fedfed Posts: 2
    have a type r to sell soon, but can't figure out a decent asking price because of rarity -- any help greatly appreciated
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Go to Kelley Blook Book, to see how much you can get for you car. Look at "private sale", not retail or trade-in.

    Depending on mileage and condition of the car I would say you can ask anywhere from $16-20K for an '01 ITR but check KBB first.

    For a quick sale post it on in the classifieds section. You should get a few serious inquiries from people in your area. Is it black or yellow? What #?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,043
    Rarity by itself doesn't increase value. The buyers, who set the market, have to care a LOT that it is rare, and be willing to pay extra for it. So don't assume that rarity automatically boosts value on a car.

    Harry has good advice for you.

    Edmunds has the True Market Value calculator which is very good IMO, so click up top on "used cars" and appraise your vehicle according to the instructions provided.

    Also keep in mind that 'asking prices' are only that. You can always tell how good your pricing is by the level of action you get from the ads.

    You might check on Ebay and see what's selling there and for how much.

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  • gismapgismap Posts: 12
    I have a 1997 Acura Integra which won't start below approximately 39 degrees. At first we thought it was a battery problem, and found the battery was bad, so it was replaced. But the problems continued. The mechanic replaced the starter and tightened some of the connections. It still would not start below 39 degrees. So the mechanic replace the starter again. Same problem. New, different brand starter was put in. Same problem. The mechanic says 12 volts are at the starter when it won't start. The lights on the dash all come on, but there is no sound, except the radio antenna, when it is below the critical temperature. Has anyone experienced this problem? Help..........!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,043
    You need better diagnostics. I'd suspect either bad battery cable to starter motor or positive post on the battery, or a defective ignition switch. The likelihood of so many bad "new" starters in a row is just too extreme.

    Oh, also, is there some kind of anti-theft device on these cars that could be temperature sensitive?

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  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Never heard of that one. If the only thing that responds is the antenna, and you have 12V at the starter, then the problem is between your ignition switch and the battery somewhere. It has to be a bad cable or connection. Sounds like there is condensation build up somewhere in the wiring. You might have to take it to the dealer. They service a lot more Integras than your mechanic does and chances are good that they have seen this before. Let us know when you get it fixed.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    I have left the integra arena, due to some unfortunate events in the recent past. I am now driving a 93 miata, but I really miss the integra =( Anyways, this whole RWD thing is kinda freaky, especially in the snow and ice. Although, in dry weather, it's pretty cool only have 2200 lbs to throw around (28-2900 for my old integra), but it behaves so differently from FWD, and it's a lot harder to keep in control when things get crazy. I need auto-x season to start a few months early, so I can learn and get taught how to drive this car =P

    I'm looking for some new suspension for the miata, since it looks like a 4x4 and can clear curbs without too much trouble (don't ask how I know this). It already has koni yellows on it, so I'm thinking of just getting some new springs and sway bars, probably Tein for the springs and Eibach or Racing Beat for the front and rear sway bars (although ... will a front bar be equivilent to a rear sway bar upgrade on the Integra?). I don't know anything about these cars, hehe.

    Anyways, I'll still be lurking around here, just to answer questions (if I know the answer ... but if I don't, I'll just b.s. one) and see how everybody's doing.

    Hope everybody had a safe Thanksgiving and have a great holiday season ^_^ Take care everybody.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    What happened to your Integra? You put so much work into it..

    The Miata can be a good auto-x car too and fun to drive. I would race it in its stock class, at least the first year. You can upgrade the front sway bar in RWD cars. It's a legal mod in Stock classes and doesn't bump you up. It 'll make a big difference. The best thing you can do to these cars is get a custom wheel alignment and adjust the camber. They have adjustable camber! Get as much negative camber as you can in both the front and rear and upgrade the sway bar. Many Miatas I see at the auto-x events have very noticeable negative camber. If the Konis are in good shape, this car will make a good auto-x car in C Stock (1.8L) or E Stock (if it's a 1.6L).

    The concept is the opposite of FWD with the shock adjustments when it comes to RWD. You set the front Konis firm and the rear soft. It takes a while to get used to and learn a RWD car well after having driven (and raced) only FWD cars. Especially Miatas. You have to somewhat change your driving style. It's almost like learning how to ride a bike, to be fast in a RWD car after having learned the same in a FWD car.
    Anyway get some decent tires (Falken Azenis), do a custom alignment and upgrade the front sway bar. If you decide to do suspension upgrades you can always race in STS2 with street tires. Cat-back exhaust is also legal in stock classes and in the Miata's case I heard it adds several ponies. How many miles on the Miata? Many guys around here race Miatas that have 150-200k mi. on them. Hit the Miata forums and talk to auto-xers. There are plenty of them. I 'm also pretty sure you can even upgrade to Miata-R suspension package (shocks/springs & sway bar) and still stay in a stock class. It might be on '94+ models you can do that, I 'm not sure now.. Look into that! Older lighter Miatas with the R-package are very fast. I know because I ask people that drive their Miatas really fast in Stock classes if they have any hidden mods jokingly, and many times they say, "no just the Miata R package/suspension which is legal". I believe that comes with Bilstein shocks but if your Konis are in good shape they should perform better than the non-adjustable Bilsteins. The 'R' springs are stiffer though and a slightly shorter. The fastest Stock Miata drivers (ES & CS) in my region have Koni yellows.

    The best thing about modding older Miatas if you want to run in Street Prepared (CSP), is that there are a veriety of 13x8.5-9" wheels that you can fit on them, where the '99+ Miatas cannot use any of the 13" wheels currently on the market because of the bigger calipers. Wrap some 235-45-13" Kumho Ecsta V700 (or Hoosiers) on them, and you have a lean, mean, handling machine that is capable at coming in the top 10% or close to FTD at most regional events, with an experienced driver :-)
    Good luck with the Miata and don't be a stranger!
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    Yeah, the koni's are in good shape, and they're working out well. The car had a nice, custom alignment, a little toe-in in the front with about 2* of negative camber, 3* in the back. I'm really interested in getting the front sway bar and just getting some new springs (I'm a ricer at heart =P ) Another thing is getting new pads because these autozone pads don't grip for crap, but they work fine on the street.


    I'm planning on running in e-stock when the season starts up again, using an upgraded front sway and no engine mods. I think I'll use the 16" wheels from the integra with the tires on there now, then upgrade to azenis when those wear out. When I get the money together, I'm going to do a greddy turbo kit with custom piping and an intercooler (kit has no intercooler), maybe 6-7 psi. That should be good for about 150bhp. Only thing is the turbo lag, but that shouldn't be too bad, since the turbo is a small 15g turbo.


    Learning how to drive this car is pretty interesting. I found that I need to wait just a little bit longer in a turn before rolling into the throttle. If I don't do this, the back end will come out really quickly. Even with the aggressive alignment, the car is still really tail happy, but I think it should be okay and controlable after the front sway upgrade.


    Harry, if you want to know the story with the integra, shoot me an email, and I'll tell you what happened.


    Take care everybody!
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Yeah that's what the alignment should be. A really fast ES auto-xer in my region uses the same 2 deg. negative up front and 3 in the rear. Not sure what his toe is though. You can get lots of negative camber in the Miatas without a camber kit.


    You got PM.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Happy New Year to whoever is out there.


    Autocross season will be starting much sooner than I thought. M-Club, one of the local auto-x clubs (non-SCCA) is holding 3 events in Feb. & Mar. Feb. 13 is the first one so I 'm sending out my Advance Design double-adjustable shocks to have them rebuilt. I doubt I 'll get them back in time but I like them a lot better than the revalved Konis I 'm running now. The car just handled much better with the AD shocks. I will most likely ship the Konis to Koni America to have them shortened after I get the ADs back. I realize now I should have done that last year when I sent them to Koni for the revalve/rebuilt job.
  • I am a new driver and my first car is a 92' integra GS-coupe. I would like to know if the motor is a vtech
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    Just so people don't give you crap in the future, it's VTEC, not vtech. The only motors that came with vtec were in the gsr's for that generation. So no, you don't have a vtec-equipped motor. If you have any questions, feel free to ask ^_^


  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    That's funny, my wife came home yesterday with a Vtech cordless phone she bought at Walmart (?). It's true! I didn't know they made vtech phones :-)

    How is the Miata doing Phoy?
  • bemathew1bemathew1 Posts: 18
    Not sure I posted this before...put in the K&n filter. Made a DIY Icetake (filter in the stock air box....taking the air behind the turn signals ...take out resonator etc).
    Koni yellows with 400 & 450 Ground controls.
    Car feels pretty good.

    I had some curb damage where one of the OEM wheels is slightly bent. Looking around for some 16x7 or 17x7 wheels.There are some good deals on Honda-tech....Not sure which one to take.There is a Brigs 17x7 wheels which weigh just 14 lbs..for $*50

    Did you all see the new Miata specs and pictures....something&#146;s get better with age???
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Well it's about time! :-) I believe you told us you have the 22mm sway bar installed but not the coilovers & Konis.

    You 're asking the wrong person because if you 've been reading my replies to garados and others, I 'm against using 16" and especially 17" wheels. Probably because to me they 're no good for autocross. The larger wheels will hurt your acceleration, even if they 're 1lb lighter than stock. 16 & 17" TIRES in general are heavier, pricier, and require more power to rotate them than a 15" wheel/tire. Our cars usually handle better with 15". Your car should look pretty good now (a lot better than before) with the 15" wheels if it's lowered 1" or more. The lower stance makes the 15" look like 16" and much more symmetrical in comparison to the rest of the car, etc. See if you can pick up a used set of 15x7" Kosei K1, 38mm offset (45mm works too, I have both sets, one for my Falken Azenis and the other for the Kumho Race tires). They weigh exactly 13lbs. I 've had mine weighed and a couple are 12.95lbs. You should also know that 7" wide wheels track the imperfections of the road more and you have to hold on tight to the wheel. 7" width does improve handling considerably though, but just like every mod you do, it has its good points and its bad. Rougher ride is one of them. I don't disapprove 15x7" I 'm just telling you what to expect.
  • bemathew1bemathew1 Posts: 18
    Thanks Harry,

    I have my auto-x Azeniz tires on an old set of Rota cobras ( approx 13 lb each but 15x6.5).
    I am planning to use these 16" or 17" for my daily use not for auto-x . I have to admit that its mainly for "All show no go" !!!!!!!. At the same time, I don't want those heavy wheels which could Impact the handling and can have rubbing issues on the road. I saw some 17x7 forged wheels in a group buy thread (its a set of Brigs wheels….. 14.2 lbs each. approx 825 shipped). I don&#146;t want to spend that much for a streey use wheel. I think you can get a decent, not so heavy 16x7 for around 500 to 600 or a 15x7 for around $400.

    Expenses are mounting up….its time for changing the Ultimate axis brake pads. If I get a good deal, probably I will go for a rotor + pads deal. Its 70 k miles now and I may want to think about changing timing belt and water pump. I also want a good header + exhaust set up, spark plus and wires…..list is going on

    Harry, good that this thread is alive and going on. Hope that this doesn't go to
    Archives like the Ford probe, Contour SVT you remember those days when
    you used to have some &#145;interesting&#146; discussions with some of them ? he he
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Those guys with Ford Probe GT's used to come into our Integra forum all the time trying to say that their cars are faster than ours, when I had personally raced several Probe GTs and there was no contest. The GSR would always pull on a Probe. I 'm glad you remember those days :-) I don't think I'd have the interest or energy today to battle it out with those guys again. After 5-6yrs I really don't care much about that and I guess I have better things to do that spend hours on Edmunds like I used to.. Remeber there was one Probe troublemaker that kept coming into our thread and Edmunds cancelled his user account and then he reregistered and came back again but the word "Probe" was always part of his UserID/nickname and we always recognized him right away.

    Anyway, how about some of the Rota 16x7 wheels they have out there? And god only knows they have like a dozen different models. Have you looked at them? They usually run around $500 for a set of 16" including shipping. They 're around 15-16lbs I think. I have the Rota Attack 15x6.5" on my '01 Civic, 40mm offset (38-42mm is ideal for the Integra). Had them for 3yrs now. Paid $450 shipped. They 're 12.8lbs each and almost as strong as the Kosei K1 because I hit a few (not a foot deep but..) potholes and they held up ok. You can lift them with 1 finger. They 're really light. I 've put 100k mi. on them, but they 're mostly highway miles. How much is your car lowered now?
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Shifty has slightly changed the name of our thread and has also listed it under the "Speed Shop - Modifications" Forum. This thread shows up on both forums. There are a couple of Integra guys on that forum asking about suspension mods so I 'm "cruising" that board too :-)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,043
    I didn't change it but I did request it appear in both boards since you guys dispense such usual info. I'm not the Host here anymore. I'm in Speedshop and Maintenance & Repair, so see you there I hope!


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  • I just bought a used 95 integra GS-R with only 80000 miles and all stock, and i couldn't be happier with the performance and handling over my old 92 Camry stationwagon. I'm looking into a few basic mods (Intake, exhaust etc.) and was wondering if any of you had any good sugestions on brands or other good mods.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    First off I'd like to know the specs on this "Vtech" cordless phone; how fast can it dial?, how much does it weigh?, etc.

    I recently bought a 1990 Acura Integra GS 2D w/ ABS. I love this car! It's affordable and very fun to drive. I want to "finish off the handling" but I'm not really sure of the best way to go about it...

    Here's what I have already:
    -HP Tokico springs and shocks
    -Stock alloy wheels (that look pretty scuffed) wrapped in
    Pirelli Directional Tires P500 - P195/60R14 85H M&S
    -A really heavy foot on the accelerator while cornering turns

    1)I've been looking at sway bars and tie bars but I'm not sure what the difference is. DC tie bars seem good but expensive. Is what I pay for what I get? I'm willing to spend the money if I'll feel a difference but otherwise I'd rather spend it on something else. I'm keeping this car for at least 3-4 years. Also, will ABS get in the way of a front tie bar? I also should mention that it has some crap illegal headers on it that I'm gonna have to remove for smog in about a year.

    2) The tires. Since the wheels are scuffed and a little oxidated, I'm pretty sure I'll upgrade to some 5-spoke GSR''s, GSR saw blades or 7-spoke Civic Si's. With that in mind, what tires should I put on them (or have on them) without breaking the bank but still getting the most out of those turns (i.e. stickiness, strong side walls). I can't stress enough how much I love those turns.

    3) Finally, what's the deal with brushings? Are they a good investment in this car that I'm keeping? Remember, I already put the springs/shocks on.
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