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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,237
    You want to be careful here that you don't put too big a sway bar and too stiff a bushing on the car---you could turn a firm ride into a punishing one that you may not like day after day after day. A little "squish" in the suspension can give you that "electric wire" feel that makes a car more fun even if it gives up something on the skid pad to a rock hard type of sled.

    Ditto tires---the lower the profile the harsher the ride as a rule, and the wider the tires the more steering effort.

    It would be great if you could drive a car that has the more extreme suspension set ups and see if you really want that on the street.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    This goes for '90-01 Integras (RS,LS,GS,GSR).

    Tie bars are a good start but usually not too noticeable, especially if you already have other suspension mods. They 're a little noticeable and help a bit on completely stock cars. Tie bars do not hurt and they do help stiffen up the chassis a little so I recommend them. I usually say go for front upper and rear tie bars BUT, not before you upgrade your rear sway bar. Sway bars make a world of difference. They take a lot of the body roll away helping you maintaing more tire patch on the ground which = better handling.

    Comptech makes a 22mm adjustable rear sway bar - tie bar combo and it's one of the best in quality and reliability. It comes with both the sway bar and the rear lower tie bar which is installed in such a way that it serves as a subframe reinforcement. This was one of the first mods I did on my '99 GSR and besides tires, it should be the first mod for everyone with an Integra or FWD car who wants to improve handling and take those sweepers and curves faster and with more confidence. Another popular rear sway bar is made by Suspension Techniques (ST). It is also 3-way adjustable and less expensive than the Comptech but it doesn't come with the tie bar and I personally think craftsmanship (you can see it in the paint - they use a grey flat paint on the bar that looks like you could have painted it better yourself) and materials is in a lower class. The Comptech uses a billet aluminum lower tie bar which is extremely light and very strong. It comes in your choice of colors but I personally prefer the silver tie bar. Very noticeable to drivers behind you as it hangs a little low since it "ties" both Lower Control Arms together, and shows you 're serious about your suspension :-) The sway bar is usually black unless they 've changed that don't know. Check their web site: They specialize in Honda/Acura aftermarket parts.
    DCSports stuff is ok but they 're not known for their sway bars. More for their tie bars which are average but I 'd recommend looking at Neuspeed for your front upper tie bar. Neuspeed makes nice front tie bars and they 're very popular with Hondas & Acuras (got those too..).

    In a few cases a bigger sway bar however can induce unwanted oversteer but only under certain specific conditions. It is unlikely you will experience it on the street especially in our FWD Integras, but it is possible if you drive on the street like a complete maniac. Mainly what I 'm talking about is You should be careful not braking or making sudden changes while going fast in the middle of a ramp or curve because the car could fishtail having a stiffer rear. This is usually remedied and/or controlled with adjustable shocks. I don' t know which Tokikos you have but I hope they 're the adjustable Tokiko Illuminas. Normally the 22mm sway bar is not a danger to anyone on the street. Under real racing conditions (such as autocross/Solo II or road racing/Solo I) it takes a few min. to adjust to, but once you learn how the bar makes your car behave, you 'll drive the car subconciously the proper way and become faster in the turns.

    TIRES: Great inexpensive tires are the Falken Azenis (Sport) and the Kumho MX. They are Ultra high performance tires that last ~20k mi. but they 're the best handling tires you can get for the price and very comprable if not better than other expensive Michelin and Bridgestone Potenzas. These are typically called "summer tires" and are absolutely not recommended for winter use if you get snow where you live. The best thing to do is get '99-00 Civic Si (or GSR, etc.)rims, or an extra set of rims with your winter or all-season tires on them. This way you don't have to mount & dismount tires with one set of rims which can get costly with balancing. Rota makes inexpensive 15x6.5" alloy wheels that are lighter than the Acura factory wheels by ~2.5lbs and they 're 1/2" wider. They 're also popular with Honda/Acura. In any case 205-50-15" is the best tire size for our cars and the one that won't rub or give you any problems. Do not get 16 or 17" wheels as they 're too heavy (unless you pay thousands $$ for forged wheels) and will comprimise handling, steering response, turn-in, and definitely acceleration.

    So after you make the No1 mod which is tires, and the No2 mod which is a bigger rear sway bar (badly needed for our cars), then you can look at intakes. AEM, Injen and Comptech make the best intakes. With Comptech you can get their "icebox" which is like a cold-air-intake (CAI) but safer than the others because it won't suck in water if you go over a few inch deep puddle. Normally the AEM & Injen cold air intake (prefer AEM) is pretty safe unless you get flooding where you live, then get the regular intakes which are also sarcastically called warm air intakes but called officially: RAM air intakes or "short" air intakes. Short intakes take in warmer engine air thus giving you lesser HP gains than Cold Air intakes which have a longer intake tube with the K&N filter much closer to the ground right behind the bumper.
    An exhaust won't do much good unless you have an aftermark intake so take in more air and an aftermarket header to dispose of gases faster. A header is more important than the exhaust and provides better HP gains than just an exhaust alone. All 3 together, I/H/E, make for a noticeably faster car. A free flow Catalytic converter (CAT) also adds to the HP and torque gains but be careful if you have very strict smog inspection where you live. Some free flow CATs may give you problems passing inspections but most claim they 're completely legal in most states for passing emissions inspection and I 've known very few people that had problems with them. Most of the time they 're fine.
    Oh one thing about Comptech I just remembered, they may only sell stuff for newer generation Integras, not older.. Also go to or for the best prices on tires.
    Ok that's enough for now. There is so much too tell but so little time.. Oh btw, Shifty is right, do not install polyurethane bushings. If you don't believe me, come drive in my GSR and tell me if you don't think you 're in a MAC truck. I race my GSR and have a race suspension as well (among other things), but up until last summer I was on rubber bushings and was driving the car around in the street even though it was very rough. Well after I installed poly bushings all around (upper & lower arms + shock bushings, etc.) the car has become almost unbearable. So I went back to my race valved but streetable Koni shocks to relieve the pain on my spine and lower back while driving on the street. Listen to your host Shifty, he sometimes knows what he is talking about.. (I wonder where he learned most of it from? from reading my posts probably! hehe) :-) Ahh, so much to tell so little time hey Joe? :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,237
    Everything I know comes from Harry, that's true.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    com'on you give me too much credit. 1-2% of your knowledge comes from other sources :-)

    BTW, checkout my 2nd race of the year in the pouring rain. The STi' s got the fastest times with their AWD which gave them the advantage in the slippery cold & wet surface. Luckily they 're in a higher class than me.
    I 'm in class E but surprisingly I didn't get killed by any of the WRX's in my class as I expected due to the bad weather (40 deg) and wet surface. My race tires were ice cold too every time I got back from a run! Yep, sometimes it's all about the driver :)
  • Wow, you said a mouthfull but that really cleared some things up for me, thanks! :) I plan on getting the AEM V2 and the comptech suspension upgrades. Do you know anything about high performance ecu's? I have heard that many of them can ruin your engine and greatly lower you gas mileage. And that some just trick you air flow sensors into thinking that your gunning the throttle when your not, so when when you do gun it there isn't a noticeable difference. (venom 400)
    Got any recomondations?
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Okay, so I wanted to do some research before I responded. First of all, thanks for the help with this. My Tokico's are HP's not Illuminas (stereo was more important than super expensive shocks, plus I have a girlfriend so minus two or three bills a month). Comptech doesn't make stuff for my car :cry: but they did make a blower for my friends type S TL that's pretty impressive. Also I should add that I'm a big fan of stock looking cars (even if it is a stock from a dif. year or model ie, newer/better looking). So Rotas are out of the question. In most cases I'd rather leave my GS looking stock (sleeper mode) than " [showing I'm] serious about [my] suspension :) .

    That in mind here's what I found...
    -Part# ST-52150, desc. Susp. Tech. Anti sway bar system.
    -A black Neuspeed front sway bar (but it's for no ABS, I have ABS, is there a way around this?)
    -Some really cheap sway bars on ebay
    PLEASE comment on the above three findings and suggest the best for my sit. Remember I'm only spending money on what I'll feel. And I don't want the ride to be too much stiffer b/c they haven't fixed all the pot holes where I live. We can leave a little flex.

    The TIRES
    They don't have either of the tires you mentioned, just Falken
    Falken Ziex ZE-512 and Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 & Kumho Ecsta ASX. Another performance shop said dunlop's are good on our cars too. Are dunlops worth the extra buck though?
    Again I appreciate your help with this, I will be asking you about JDM 1pcs in the near future, er' I mean posting it so that anyone can respond! Ha! :shades:
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    don't lower it much, and go with a nice set of Acura alloys in 15" are cheaper, still a bunch of selection, and you can pick up a set of wheels off of ebay from some kid who just put 18s on his Integra...

    Suspension Techniques makes a great product, and they're usually not too radically large to cause flex problems. get what you pay for - I've run Kuhmo 712s on mine and my oldest son's cars - they were cheap, but after 6-8k miles, the chopped up badly (with GOOD rotation and balance practices) and became noisy, also lost grip.

    The Yokohoma ES100 or Dunlop FM 901 are good choices. It's a non-weather car (Southern CA), you could use the Falken Azenis Sports like I just put on my Ion Redline - these things are incredible.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    I think it's funny how these kids will buy 18" wheels and lower their integ 2.5 inches just so they can screw up their camber and eventually get their ride stolen. Speaking of which is their a diff. between the GSR saw blades & the 5-spokes? Should I just go for the Si 7-spoke, whats a good price to pay for an unscuffed set?

    My car is used to Central California and the weather can be very unpredictable. I don't want to get any San Diego tires (sorry DR!) But both those tires seemed reasonably priced (Es100 &FM901) did you try both of them? Do you have a preference? Also, what speed rating did you get for your Falken Azenis Sports? For now I'll forgive the fact that their on a saturn. :(

    Still need help! Is $250 gonna be worth it for this ST Anti sway system? Is it OK that I have ABS, most of the websites sell ones: "w/out ABS"???
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    1. Leave the front sway bar alone. The bigger the front sway bar the more understeer you 'll have. You want to look into upgrading your front sway bar's endlink bushings only. Go to and look at the Energy suspension kits to see if they make them for your car. You 'll feel the difference.

    2. ST rear sway bar is fine. ST sway bars are a lot better now than a few years ago and they 're reasonably priced.

    3. Stay away from Ebay crap unless they 're big names. I recommend getting a front STRUT bar. I never mentioned front sway bar for your car unless I fat fingered something.. Neuspeed should make a Front Upper Shock Tower bar for you car (same thing as front upper strut bar) or aka: front upper tie bar. It ties your 2 front shock towers together. The GSR comes with one standard. Neuspeed tie bars should be around $99-109 from what I recall. Their tie bars are good because unlike most upper tie bars they mount at 2 different places in each corner. You said you wanted to feel it so I recommend the Neuspeed front upper tie bar. Most other cheap tie bars will not make a noticeable difference. The only other bar you will feel is the SPOON front upper tie bar which I 'm not sure if it fits in your car. It is made for the Type-R but fits all '94+ Integras and '92+ Civics. It may fit your car as well. I replaced my stock strut bar with the Spoon one. Bought it used for $100 but it was like new. It costs $200 new. Spoon makes top of the line stuff but all their products are VERY expensive. I actually didn't feel the difference over the stock one but I didn't expect to because I have a very stiff suspension and polyurethane bushings. I even raced without the bar a couple of times while I was waiting for the Spoon bar and only then I felt that it wasn't there very slightly, but didn't miss it and didn't think it hurt my times. I think it was more psychological than anything else. But on a mildly modded car like yours or with non-adjustable shocks like you have, you 'll feel a small difference with a good upper tie bar. You can always look into the OEM '94+ GSR bar to see if it fits your car. The Acura dealer might know. They 're only about $40-50. It made a slight difference on my brother's '95 LS. Turn-in got a little better and the steering a tiny bit more responsive. Nothing big but every little thing helps.
    The Falken Azenis Sport is being phased out. It's been replaced by another Falken. Can't remember the model right now because it's passed by bedtime but my brother just got a set and installed in on his '98 Type-R. He says they 're at least as good as the Azenis Sport but he won't know if they 're better until he goes racing with me in next week. I 'll ask him where he got them from. You should be able to do a search and do some price comparisons. The Azenis Sport 205-50-15 price range (I have them too) was $65-75. Very reasonably priced and it's one of the top street tires out there now and has outperformed most high priced ZR/WR summer tires for the last 2-3yrs. I can imagine the New Falken that replaces it being a couple of bucks more. You might be able to still find the Azenis Sport if you search hard enough but most likely the SCCA autocross guys have bought them all. It's the most sought after autocross street tire for the Street Touring Street tire class (STS).
    I mentioned the Rota wheels because Honda/Acura 15x6" OEM wheels in half way decent shape will run you at least $300/set. The Rotas are around $400-450 shipped. The Rotas are also 6.5" wide and a couple of pounds lighter than OEM which in most cases makes a noticeable difference when you 're accelerating and turning. GSR wheels are 15.5lbs and '99-00 Si wheels are 16lbs. Most Rotas are 12.8-13.2lbs like the Kosei K1 15x7" which I have on my car (have 2 sets of those, 1 for street w/45mm offset, 1 for racing with a more agressive 38mm offset - pushes the wheel out by 7mm). 2.5lbs of less unsprung weight means 25lbs off each corner of your car. 100lbs all around. I also have Rota 15x6.5" (Attack model) on my '01 Civic EX coupe. They 're fine for daily driving and I have put 90k mi. on them so far. I 'm not saying by any means that the Rotas are a better wheel than OEM. Honda/Acura OEM wheels have superb craftsmaship, polished lip, more durable, etc. definitely better than Rota in most categories. It's just that Rotas like some other brands are an inexpensive alternative to OEM and are LIGHT which is a big plus for fuel comsuption, acceleration, handling, turn-in and steering responsiveness. They 're also not too light as to comprimise the wheel's integrity so they 're fine for every day street driving and like I said earlier, very popular with Hondas & Acuras (I see a lot of Integras with the subzero ones) and have an ideal offset of 40mm (stock Honda 6" wheels are 45mm).
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Harry, again thank you for the help. Just a few quick things because I'm supposed to be working right now. I looked at the Rotas, and the subzero is alright but they wanted 400-500 for the set! I still got to get all these other suspension mods! Just to check before I dont buy: " front sway bar" that causes understeer is under the engine bay right? Back to rotas: will that extra .5" on the width really be noticed, same w/ 3-4lbs. Thank you Harry
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Okay, here we go: I feel I've done some researching and I would like feedback. The following is a list of what I think I want. I'm posting it b/c I want feedback before I spend all this money (i.e. if I'm planning on spending too much or the part I'm planning on buying is crap).

    Suspension Techniques Anti-Sway Bar
    (Rear, Part#51135) Bar Diameter: 3/4"

    15" OEM rims: either Si, GSR 5-spoke or what about the '04 Civic Ex: are those OK?
    on Falken- 205/50 - 15 duh! w/ good speed rating
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    oh yea plus the: Neuspeed front upper sway bar $100

    & do I need a camber kit? I only dropped my ride an inch on the Tokico non-adj gas shocks & springs.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    You probably won't need a camber kit as your drop isn't too aggressive, but I'd recommend it, just so you can get a proper alignment.

    Well, I don't show up here for a few months and you guys make a grip of posts :P Oh well, doesn't matter. Looks like everybody's doing well. The miata is treating me nicely, but I haven't been able to go out and auto-x it because of lack of events locally. Hah, I sat in a turbo beetle, and when I got in, it reminded me of my old integra *sniff* and then I got into the miata and felt bad when I pressed the gas and that little 1.6 didn't do anything but make more noise :P

    Alright y'all, take care and drive safely.

  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    My post was deleted because they 're saying I 'm not supposed to recommend friend's shops or whatever. Too bad. 2 pages of typing for nothing.. I did get a notice to edit it, but I didn't see until a couple of days later.

    In any case $183 is too much for an ST rear sway bar. This vendor on line has it for about $40 less: Give him a call. I thought they made the 22mm rear sway for you car, but I could be wrong. 19mm is fine too.
    Front endlink bushings are what you want so if you got the part# off the site than it's the right one. OEM rims in good shape will cost you $300, not $200 but you might get lucky. Make sure the '04-05 Civic EX rims are at least 6" wide like the '99-00 Civic ones or all the other Integra ones. If you can't find the Falken Sport Azenis 205-50-15" (the 215 model), you should get the Kumho MX which are not as expensive as the new Falken Azenis 615. Get a wheel alignment after you install the tires. You want a little toe-out in the front (-0.04 each side) and 0 toe in the rear. There 's nothing you can do about the camber unless you get a camber kit. Most camber kits correct your camber and give you more positive camber. You don't want that. That hurts handling. You want as much negative camber as you can get. Being dropped 1" gives you a little extra negative camber. So you don't need a camber kit because your camber is not dramatic enough to hurt your tires. Besides, camber doesn't kill your tires, toe does.. unless you have 3+ deg. of neg. camber which you don't. A little negative camber is a good thing. If you look at the wheel alignment printout you will see the factor range for camber. It usually goes well into the negative range. My Integra's factory specs go up to -1.5 deg. When I was dropped 1" a few years ago, I had -1.5 and -1.6. When I dropped the car 2" it went to -2.3 on one side & -2.4 on the other. That's pretty much what I wanted (2.5" would 've been ideal but it was close enough). If you don't have at least 1 deg. of neg. camber you will be "rolling" your tires, meaning you 'll riding on the sidewalls during hard cornering which is not good.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Okay, so I'm sold on the Neuspeed front sway bar/ST rear sway bar/OEM rims w/good tires and no camber kit. I've been talking about bushings and the two most common complaints are #1: They are squeeky #2: They are useless #3: They are hard to install (something like, compression, idunno). Also, do I just want the front end links? do I want poly eurethane? They have sets for ever piece of susp. getup I could even imagine!Please address these issues Harry, also I'd like to hear from anybody that has personal experience with BUSHINGS. Again, I appreciate the help, I've learned so much about supension this month [SNIFF] [SNIFF]! :)
  • I have been reading alot of your post. There has been some interesting read to say the leased. I just want to show you guys our shop car..
    It has been turbo charged and a few Top Sercerts parts..
    Later Derek
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I never said anything about a Neuspeed front sway bar. I recommended a Neuspeed front upper STRUT bar, aka: shock tower bar, aka: front upper tie bar. It connects your front shock towers together to reduce some flexing and stress when cornering. A Neuspeed black front upper tie bar goes for about $100-110.
    '94-01 GSRs came with this from the factory. I 'm not sure about '92-93 GSRs which is your generation Integra. You might want to look into installing an Acura '92-93 GSR upper (shock tower) tie bar if they made one.

    Leave the front stock sway bar in. You just need to install polyurethane end links on your front sway bar. Go to and order the Energy Suspension front sway bar endlinks. Do NOT get a whole new front sway bar. You don't need it. If you have bad bushings or your mechanic tells you that they 're pretty worn out (the car is pretty old and the rubber bushings tend to deteriorate over time), then install Acura OEM bushings. I wouldn't put the polyurethane in if you don't race the car. Polyurethane bushings also squeak after some time and need to be lubricated again. Just replace the lower control arm (front & rear) bushings with factory ones. You 'll be able to feel the difference. The car will feel tighter and have a new car like ride and feel to it. Handling will improve as well. Bushings is labor intensive and your car has a lot of bushings. The control arms have to be removed in order to press the old bushings out and the new ones in. I paid $600 for labor for the front lower control arm bushings, front lower & upper control arm bushings, and shock bushings all around. That's a total of 20 bushings. It litterally took them most of the day. I had it done at a local Porsche race shop 2 mi. down the road that does this stuff blind folded.. It was $70/hr labor (last summer) x 7.5hrs + tax. Not only did they have to take of the control arms and put them back, but they had to take off all the shocks too, plus my rear lower tie bar connecting the 2 control arms together had to removed, etc. Believe it or not I paid less to have my tranny taken apart to install a Limited Slip Differential! (at a Honda race shop 100 mi. away). Was the $600 worth it? Not at all. Did the poly bushings make a dramatic difference? NO. A slight one? yes. They 'd probably help more in road racing maybe, but for autocross which is racing at lower speeds or for the street, not worth it at all. The most noticeable thing is a crappy ride. My advice is do bushings only if you have to and install factory ones since your car is a daily driver, and you don't use it for any form of competition racing. Also don't expect to find too many people here with polyurethane bushings. It's rare to find someone like me on this forum. Those people frequent the hardcore Honda/Acura technical & race forums. They won't even talk to you there if you ask these basic questions and your post will be locked. Because your questions have been asked 30,000 times many years ago, you absolutely have to use the search feature to search through thousands of archived posts or you will be treated like dirt. I 'm still here because I started here in '99 before I went into racing and started modding my car, and I guess I 'm a creature of habit. I still visit other Honda/Acura 'fanatic' forums but I only participate or post in the racing section and let me tell you that's a tough crowd too, even for me :)
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Hi Derek,
    Unfortunately your shop car is not doing anything for me. Side skirts, front lip/spoiler, JDM or g2 headlights on a g3 teg, body work, and big wheels are just extra weight to me. If that's what you 're into then great. It's not me. I like sleepers. This car is a cop magnet. It sticks out too much but it's probably good to have a car like this to attract younger people to your shop. Here 's a pic of my car in action when it was lightly modded 3yrs ago and only dropped 1.3".
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    like on my son's cars (Talon TSi AWD and 240SX), if it doesn't make it go faster or autocross/drift better, it doesn't go on the car. No bling-bling, no goofy body kits, etc.

    I've had that discussion with several of my sons friends - a couple have Integras, a few Civics, and RSX-S is in the group. Many of them are loaded with 300 lbs in stereo gear, radical body kits, cheap (HEAVY) 17-18" wheels from Ebay, and other useless garbage - they've added maybe 10-20 hp in mods, but are slower than an old lady driving a stock Civic LX auto 4-dr because these guys are driving around with a 500 lb weight penalty.

    Do the math!! Power to weight means EVERYTHING.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    It's funny you mention the stereo and such. Many kids show up to autocross for the first time and fail tech inspection for having 100+ pounds of loose subwoofers, speakers and amplifiers in the trunk of their 110hp cars (ok maybe 111 with a Magnaflow muffler and 4" exhaust tip or an axle-back only exhaust). They 're not fastened down securely. Sometimes the loose stereo equipment is in the back seat or rear floor. Do they really want to race and take high G turns with those things loosly tied down with some string and a wire? What are they thinking? They also have the 17" wheels that weigh 24lbs each and we sometimes find lateral movement in the ball joints because the extra weight of these wheels puts a strain on them as well as all the suspension components. In addition the big wheels alone make their cars slower. When I tell them they 've added 90lbs of unsprung weight on each corner they look at me like I have 3 heads. So we fail them and tell them to go home or see a mechanic.

    But what 's really hillarious is that sometimes these cars (Civics, Sentras, Huyndais, etc.) with the spoilers, sideskirts, wings, 17" wheels and custom exhaust tips but with a $1200 stereo, are automatics!! They come to race without a manual transmission! Oh and the tires they put on their shiny new wheels are All Season cheap S rated ones with a nice soft sidewall..

    I 'm glad when I was a teenager in the early 80's we didn't have too many 4cyl. cars around. I 'd probably be doing the same thing. My teenage muscle car was a '71 Nova 350 SS with a 4-sp. My mechanic just put some Crane cams in the motor and I installed new Cragar 15x8" chrome wheels on with 245-55-15 Dunlop Qualifier white raised letters and that's all you needed back then. Well my mechanic did replace the intake manifold and put a bigger Holley carburetor on it too. Our cars looked good back then, especially when they had the power to back it up. I had a stainless steel dual exhaust that had the most beautiful exhaust sound (melody in my ears) and almost 400 ponnies under the hood. That Nova was light. Barely 3100lbs it smoked everything at the light. I had a great power to weight ratio. I used to have Corvettes, Z28s, firebirds and other V8s for breakfast. Most Dodge 440s I was able to keep up with or beat them but I had to really work at it. They were fast but my 4-sp. with my Hurst shifter (hmm, I guess I did more mods that I thought..) was build for the 1/4 mi. The only car I lost to in the 2yrs I had the car was a GTO with a 454 that was worked and the guy estimated he had between 500-550hp! Ah those were the good old days.
    Look at me now with an Integra. What was I thinking?? :confuse: Well it does outhandle my old Nova ;)
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    is almost a verbatim account of our tech inspections every week....scary, and true.

    Here's a REAL boys and I always get a kick out of some kid with a bonzai body kit (usually unpainted), stock or cheesy aftermarket wheels, stickers galore, and LOUD exhaust, in an automatic Cavlier, Neon (or even a Civic)...

    We look, then listen as they accelerate, hearing the slushbox shift, and start laughing.

    This morning, my wife and I were in my Ion Redline (modded) and were at a light when a young guy in a wanna-be street touring (as described above) version of an older Saturn sedan came flying by, cutting the corner - radically loud exhaust, and when the car shifted (almost said "he", but that would be wrong)...we heard the slushbox moan into the next wife said "we do these idiots do all that stuff to an automatic car?"

    I looked longingly into her eyes, and told her that I could tell she'd been married to a hard-core car guy for 20 years (next month, on the 18th)...
  • kalliegkallieg Posts: 1
    I recently undid the spark plugs on my GSR and i then realizd im not sure which one goes where.. I dont dare start my car incase they are plugged in the wrong area. Is there a picture or something that will show me where each one goes. I need help with that ASAP!!! email the answer to me @ Thank you.
  • The shop car was built to get noticed. It bring a lot looks at my booth when we are at a event. The car is just for show but my partner that is a few or 10+ years younger that me thinks other wise. The first week we turboed it the motor went lean and burnt the #3 piston. it was all do his lack of perfection.. Which is ok with me its not mine. I love sleepers as a matter fact I love a modified car in any sense of the word..
    Later Derek
  • I tried your yahoo acct. but it bounced back. The firing order is 1,3,2,4
    Later Derek
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I 'm not sure you 're asking for the firing order but the order they go back in? You took them off the car to inspect them and want to know how they go back in?

    All 4 plugs are the same and it doesn't matter which one you put where, unless you 're talking about the ignition (spark plug) wires? They are labeled 1,2,3,4 according to the cylinder they connect to.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    That's nice that your wife speaks the same language and looks like is into motorsports and proper car modding. My wife wants nothing to do with it and thinks it's a waste of money and time to autocross race. And I know she is not alone. Most of my friends' wives think along the same lines. It's rare that you see a couple come out to race together or one of the spouses just hanging out and support the other..

    How do you like the Ion Redline? It weighs about the same as a Prelude (VTEC base model), has 5 more HP, and 44 ft-lbs more torque so I must assume it's pretty quick like sub-7s 0-60? Have any major car mags road tested it yet?

    I like that the Redline runs on regular gas and not premium. It hurts my wallet everytime I fill up the GSR at $2.43/gal for premium/super. Gas mileage is not bad on the Redline either. My wife's '01 Altima (155hp) which only weighs 60lbs more than a Redline had an advertized mileage of 22-28 and we rarely got over 25 on the highway. It also had 15" wheels (more economical) compared to the 17"s of the Readline. I bet if the Redline had 15 or 16" wheels with 205-45-16 or 205-50-15 tires it would get 30mpg or more. How do you like it so far?
  • driftracerdriftracer Posts: 2,692
    and runs MUCH better on premium - you can use regular, but guys have done dyno tests and have shown 12-15 hp drops on regular - no thanks.

    These guys showed HORRIBLE times in their testing....

    Many Redline owners have done 0-60 in 5.5-6.0 and quartered at 13.5-13.8 on drag radials, 13.9-14.5 on street tires. The only thing I don't like, well two things - the Recaro seats are too narrow for my "no longer a 32" waist" body, and the car gets an unusual amount of attention - not something I'm used to.

    I get around 26-27 on the highway, and I don't baby it or drive like someone's grandma.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    The car is fast. I 'll have to see the time slips for the 13.9s on street tires though :) That's Mustang GT territory. It 's really amazing that a 205hp car is this fast, especially for $21K. It does have lots of torque though for a 2900lb car. That's what makes it fast. I hope the 4cyl. motor will last for many years with this much supercharged power. I 'm hoping they 've made internal engine modifications to handle the power. Is this an all new motor from Saturn or did they take an existing one and added a supercharger?
    The same goes for all sports/race seats. They 're usually advertise 34" waste. It's the only reason I haven't put one in my GSR yet and I 've been asked a thousand times how come I 've been racing without one for so many years. Well I have a 35" waste and have sat in hundreds of other people's Sparco, Corbeau, Shroth, Recaros, Racetech, Momo, and a dozen other brand name (and non) seats, and they all had a very tight fit. I always wonder how comfortable they 'd be driving to some of the more distant racing events 80-90mi. away. Actually a couple of very expensive ($800-900 each!) top of the line reclineable street/race seats were 36" waste and they weren't too bad. You do want a snug firm fit but nothing that stops your circulation or cause you discomfort. I don't how some of these guys with nice new M3's, 911's, STI's, S2000's, EVOs, etc. put these aluminum or fiber glass race seats in their cars with almost no padding at all! It's like sitting in a metal shell and my butt and back start hurting me instantly or 1 min. after making contact with the seat. That's just crazy. Last weekend I actually hurt myself turning around to tell the guy "nice tight fit" (which is true but I didn't tell him I hated the seat and the design). My elbow hit the edge of the seat which wraps around you and runs down along your ribs and your side. It was bare metal about 1/8-1/4" thick. But these are the hardcore race guys that come to win and go to the extreme in all the mods allowed in their class.
    Ok back on topic. Anyone have any Integra questions? hehe
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    "I fill up the GSR at $2.43/gal for premium/super."
    Oh please Harry, I'll send you an e-tissue :cry: I live in San Francisco and on a good day Premium is $2.97/gal. Regarding the guy w/ the racer chick: Marry the woman! If she's into cars, and you're SURE she's not really a man, that's a keeper.

    Back to cars: Harry, how do you feel about the MUGEN rear trailing arm bushings, I guess it's similar to OEM but the rubber is a little stiffer. I'll stay away from poly but do I need to replace these arms? How can I check to see if they need replacing? Is that gonna be a waste of money? Also I read another forum (i know, unloyal) and they were saying that ENERGY SUSP. motor mounts (I think poly) were the best $36 ever spent. Is there any truth to this?
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    He did marry her, okay, I can't read. Good job. Coming soon for Harry, motor questions! Once I order all the susp. equip. I'm gonna want to start building up the engine the right way. I'm riding the GS 1.8 w/ 147,xxx on the motor & chasis. I want to go either VTECH head or swap to GSR motor/tranny (readily available). Keep in mind I'm in CA wi/ strict smog cert. so I want to be as legal and reliable as possible. I also probably dcan't lose the car for months on end for a big build. I'm looking at spending maybe 1-5000 on the engine. I know you suggested I/H/E but is that compadible w/ all b-series? How do make this car really fast/reliable? BUT Susp. is more important right now, I just wanted to throw that out there.
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