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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying



  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Thanks for the tip about the plastige.

    "To tell if an injector is stressed, look and see if they're open all the time and if you're running lean. "

    -How do I see if they're open all the time? I haven't gotten the injectors yet, I'm wondering if I shouldn't just get some brand new ones that are gaurunteed to fit Hondas instead of getting used Eclipse ones that need to be retrofitted. What do you think? If so, than what size should I get given my set-up?

    HEAD: Of course I'm gonna deck/hot tank the head too - Is replacing the valve stems/seals/guides something I can do myself? My motor guy actually recommended the exact same thing for the head. Hey, while it's open do you think I should spend the extra $300 getting some black nitrated or stainless steel valves? I remember when I blew my headgasket on this B18A about 3-4 valves were cajun cooked and thats the last thing I want but the stock valves that came with the head look beautiful (no imperfections) so I dunno.

    Finally, I have yet to visit a machine shop. I plan on visiting more than one before I blow a grand on the blue printing/micropolishing/honing/decking/hot tanking/etc. - Is there anything in particular I should look for in search of a good machine shop? Any questions I should ask? :D
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    The dyno guys should be able to tell what's going on with the injectors. For 6-7 psi, I'd recommend somewhere around 350-400 cc/min injectors. I believe RC engineering makes some of the best injectors.

    To replace the stuff in the head, you're going to have to take the thing apart, and that entails: compressing the springs, taking off the retainers, dropping the valve out, replacing the seals and guides, blah blah blah. You can do it by yourself, but I didn't =P If you want to have a little more insurance, get stainless steel exhaust valves. It's the exhaust valves that get roasted when things get out of control.

    To find a good machine shop, ask around. Go to different car shops that send stuff out to be machined and ask who they send them out to. I'd recommend going to a reputable racing shop and see who they'd recommend. My stuff ended up being shipped about 100 miles north of my hometown to a guy that had been doing machine work for ~30years or so and had a bunch of CNC machines.
  • Anyone know of a good site to get some GSR floor matts at?
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Actually I already took the head apart myself! I was so proud of myself :) I had my friend watching me the whole time so I wouldn't screw it up... it was kind of scary knocking the valve retainers/springs out cuz u really got to wack it but the head is empty right now and ready to be decked... so you think if I just get the exhaust valves I should be fine? If I just replace the exhaust valves that won't screw up the air flow balance or anything? And what's the dif. between stainless steel & black nitrated as far as durability & performance go?

    Yah I've heard RC injectors are good too.

    OK- thnks for the advice on the machine shop.

    Totally unrelated: BACK TO SUSPENSION!! :surprise:
    Here's one component I completely looked over: Front traction bar! My understanding is that it's three light weight but strong bars that replace the front crossmember and eliminate wheel hop. If it's lighter than the front crossmember than I'm sure it must improve acc./handling/stopping too... They sell one for my car for $450, it's called Prostreet Full-Race bar... I wonder if this is a worthwhile addition considering I'm heavy into handling with this car... also: do any of you have any experience with a traction bar? $450 is a lot of money that could go the turbo, I'm thinking maybe I should just hold off... what do you guys think?
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    I'd check ebay or just go get some universal mats at an auto place.

    90gs: I don't have any experience with the black nitrated valves, so I won't comment =P As far as the stainless steel ones go, they're quite durable and should be able to handle a bit of heat. They won't change the flow characteristics of the head, so don't worry about that. Of course, you could get the valves that are a little bit ... thicker, and they'll increase compression, but not by much.

    For the traction bars, I'd hold off. If anything, get better shocks and new motor mount inserts. I believe you can get the inserts for the mounts as well as the torque mounts. I did the torque mount inserts (~$40 shipped) and my wheel hop vanished. If I had to do it again, though, I'd do the mount inserts as well.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    Yeah I 'd hold off on the traction bars and such. Personally I think they 're overpriced and you can actually get them for under $400 if you really looked. See how the car drives first and like Phoy said you should go with the polyurethane motor mount inserts like we have. It reduced wheel hop considerably. I used the 3 torque mount inserts that Energy Suspension sells. The rear one is very hard to get to, so I had the guy at a local Porsche (BMW, mainly German) race shop do it. The owner is very knowledgeable and there 's nothing this guy hasn't done before. Even though he doesn't know a lot about Honda engines, he breezed through my suspension installs, bolt-on stuff and mounts. It's not much different than most other cars, and he does custom alignments. He also gave me some tips and ideas about alterations to sway bars, endlinks, and other stuff but I don't want to "cheat" and do illegal modes for my class :)
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    How is that cheating??? Just b/c a major manufacturer didn't put it up for sale online doesn't mean it's cheating!!!

    Regardless, I'll take ur guy's advise about the traction bar, just a few more follow up Q's though: First where do u find it for uinder $450?? 2nd) one thing that turned me off from motor mounts was the vibration @ idle (its my street car too) would the vibration be similar with the traction bar?? One of the other bigger reasons I was interested was b/c it LOOKS a lot lighter than the front crossmember but they don't really advertise the weight loss. Do you have any idea of the weight diff.?? Obviously I'd love to lose a few pounds off the front.

    Side note: I'm feeling so much more comfertable with my cars settings now. I just took a five series yesterday on some hairpin turns. I can really see how important these suspension mods are. I want to learn more about balancing my weight. Do any of you know how to measure/weigh each corner of the car so you can acheive a 50/50 distribution? I'm going to relocate the battery when I do the swap.... which reminds me... is there a weight diff. from B18a to B18b??? All I can think of is maybe a bigger IM unless the block is heavier...

    Where do the torque mount inserts go?? is that another thing to save for the swap?? will it increase the vibration sig.??? IT's street car too, girls already are nervous to ride with me?!?!! :P :P
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    the vibration thing isn't noticable, IMO. The torque mounts are located: 1) in front of the transmission, connecting to underneath the frame rail, 2) underneath the main motor mount on the driver side, also connecting to the underside of the frame rail, and 3) in the back, coming off the junction of the transmission and the block. All three are easy to access with the motor out.

    I don't think a 50/50 weight distribution is ideal for a front-wheel drive car. I think it's something like 60/40. I could be wrong though. Hopefully Harry will clarify.

    I have no experience with the traction bars, so I can't say if you'll lose any weight or not.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    It's been a while but a race shop I used to go in New York City offered 2 different types of traction bars (these guys were heavily into modding engines for drag racing - the 2 owners were drag racers themselves). One was $350 and the other $400 or $425. Don't remember brand names. It's been 3-4yrs. Prices could have gone up but those where the most popular ones for Hondas.

    The motor mounts do make the car vibrate at idle and you feel it through the steering wheel. Mine recently started making some rattling noises at between idle which is 550RPM and 1,000RPM. I think the poly inserts are getting somewhat loose after a dozen race events or the factory rubber ones are destroyed causing some movement. You won't get vibration while revving or once you get moving, BUT they do produce noticeably more noise when the car is in motion. It sounds like additional road noise. It was immediately noticeable to me. Unfortunately it's normal and everyone gets that. After a couple of few days it was like it wasn't even there because I got used to it and accepted it. Didn't pay any attention to it I guess but my brother got in my car the other day and was like: "what's all that noise? is that road noise?" I used to think his Type-R was noisy (which actually is a lot more than all other Integras) but now mine is rediculous because of the polyurethane bushings and mount inserts, suspension, tires, etc. The rear one is the one that made the car noisier. We did the other 2 at my friend's house because he had all the tools and that tall thing (can't remember what it's called) that you put under the motor to move it up to get slack and remove the mounts. Well I only had very slight vibration with those 2 alone and they did help with wheel hop. We did them without taking the motor off, they weren't that bad but the rear one was a real pain and it got late and decided to quit. A few days later I went to a Porsche shop around the corner and had the guy do it. It was really tough without taking the motor out. I then read on H-T that everyone was having a really tough time getting the rear mount out so you put the insert on. Some guys said it took them 3-4 hrs and were cursing the whole time. Plus your hands get cut up too because there isn't much room. The trick is to push the motor up a full 2"! It wasn't till that rear one was in that the vibration got much more noticeable.

    The "inserts" are actually "outers". They go on the outside and around the rubber insert. I guess they are inserts because they 're still within the metal mount bracket(s). There are 2 polyurthane pieces for each mount. They go on either side of the rubber mount, sort of like hugging it or like another layer. They fit like a glove though. Really nice fitment. All they do is reinforce the rubber ones. Some of my torque steer is gone too after I installed them but if I rev past 3500 RPM I still get some wheel hop. They didn't totally eliminate it but the wheel hop doesn't last as long either when I get overexited and launch at higher RPM's. So they definitely helped me launch a little quicker especially at 3K RPM. Before I had trouble at ~2.3K RPM or higher specially if it was cool out.

    You 'll definitely need the poly mounts when you install the turbo. They should be much cheaper than the traction bar if you can get someone to help you do it. If you have the motor out of the car it's easier and you should be able to handle that yourself. No special tools needed. Just basic stuff.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    You 'll never get 50/50 weight distribution with your car or any FWD car. That would be dangerous and your car wouldn't handle well. What you are looking to achieve is 50/50 cross weight distribution. For example the sum of your front left and rear right weights should equal or be very close to within a couple of pounds of the sum of the front right and rear left. 50.1/49.9 is good too.

    I wouldn't worry about that too much because you don't race. Besides if you have another person in the car your corner weighting goes out the window.

    When you corner weigh your car you sit in it and you alone. The car should be the way you race it, with the amount of gasoline that you race with (1/4 tank, 1/2 tank or whatever), the spare tire out, empty trunk, no CD's, etc. Our cars are pretty much completely empty when we race and that's how it is when we do the corner weighting. So it would be very hard for you to keep the car's weight the same at all times when you drive on the street. Even if you corner weighted your Integra with the spare and jack in the car, most of the time the car wouldn't be the same weight as when it was corner weighted because you may have additional every day items in the car, groceries, people or other things, and especially a different amount of gas in the tank which throws the #s way off. So don't worry about the battery. Leave it where it is. It won't help. Most people move the battery because they don't have an adjustable height suspension. You have coilovers now don't you? You corner weight your car by lowering one side or raising another. No need to move things around.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Actually I stripped my trunk a couple of months ago so the only thing that's in there is a little bit of carpit, the leftovers from my shaved antenna hole and a few dead bodies ;) . The main reasons I want to move the battery to the trunk are for esthetic value (I want to do a custom/functional trunk) and I figure the less front heavy my car is the better right?

    I do NOT have coilovers... I've got the Tokico blues and HP spring set (has been working very well for me BTW) and I'm pretty happy with the suspension setup right now, my car is very predictable.

    Harry, I still don't understand how to corner weight your car!?!? do you need coilovers to do it!?!? :confuse:
  • Just got my car back today from the shop. I don't know exactly what they did to it but its all back together. If it were my choice i would have taken it to an import shop around here with some good reputation, instead my parents decided to take it to a place that i'm not too sure of. I don't think they did a horrible job at putting the engine in but i don't think they checked anything as far as performance. More of lets get this motor in as fast as possible' type deal. The whole reason i'm asking is because i was driving it for the first time today and i dont know if it was just me or if my car really is weaker It just does not seem to have the same peppy feeling it used to. I've herd the leak down/compression testing will tell you alot of things about your motor. I have no idea exactly what it all consists of or how much it'd cost to do it. Can it be done by any shop or dose it have to be done by a tuner shop specifically. Any help would be greatful, i just want my baby to run the way she used to. :cry:

    Oh yeah. My cd deck is in the lock mode or whatever it is and it asked to put in a code but my sister decided to try it herslef and now all it says is err-3, anyone know?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,708
    Any shop can do a leakdown test. Compression test can fool you but a leakdown rarely lies.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    Well the only thing you can really do on a car with a fixed height is move stuff around when corner weighting like the battery but you are very limited. Most people with stock (factory) cars that can't modify them in the SCCA class they 're in, end up adding weights to achieve a 50/50 cross weight distribution or get it as close as they can. That's even hard to do because according to the rulebook things need to be strapped down very well or welded and welding stuff is not really allowed in the stock classes and probably 1/2 the classes.

    It's much easier to cornerweight with an adjustable height suspension. BTW, I had my GSR put up on the scales to see how balanced it was when it was pretty much stock and had a fixed height suspension. It was 50.1/49.9 with me in it. Not bad at all. I think Honda made it that way and compensated for an adult at the driver's seat. The suspension was H&R OE Sport springs (.75-1" drop) and Koni Yellows. The car felt very well balanced and neutral with that suspension and a 19mm rear sway bar. Afterwards I installed the GC coilover kit and I could tell the corner weighting was all messed up because I lowered all 4 corners by eye (counted the threads too) and there is a margin of error no matter what you do.

    Also getting each corner dropped equally doesn't mean your car will achieve optimal cross weight distribution. That's a myth. Only when you start dropping one side and raising another, you achieve 50/50 cross weight distribution. At the end all 4 corners end up being anywhere from 1/2 to sometimes 2 turns (threads on the coilover sleeve) off from each other! It also depends how your bushings are wearing out and how the shocks and springs settle. Not all 4 corners settle the same.

    If your car feels good I wouldn't mess with it. Leave it the way it is. I kept messing with it, the ride height, everything and kept making it worse. Most people fall in this category. So take my advice and leave it alone. More chances are you 'll make it worse than better by trying to corner weight but you have so little to adjust that I doubt it will make much difference in your case, where in mine I can make huge adjustments.

    Also another thing you should know, is that cornerweighting is not as important on the street as it is in autocross. Cornerweighting helps a lot in the slalom and generally in auto-x when very fast left to right transitions are required where you don't want the car's rear to snap or loop around. You don't do that on the street. If you 're weaving in and out of traffic very fast sort of simulating a slalom, then I don't want to talk to you :P hehe
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    Make sure the ignition wires and spark plugs are OEM/factory. The distributor cap too. I 'm hoping the ECU (computer) was still in the car when they found it?

    Could it be some of these parts were missing and the shop that dropped the motor in installed some cheap 3d party ones? Is it possible someone put regular 87 octane gas in it?

    As far as the stereo goes, you will only get it to work if you have the code. Disconnect the battery for about a minute or two and reconnect it. The error code will go away and it should say "enter code" or something similar. Enter the correct code. If you don't have it, after 3 tries, it gives you that same error your sister got.

    Do all the lights come on the dashboard when you first start it up? Like the airbag/SRS light, ABS, etc? Do they go away promptly just like before?
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Harry- Thanks for the tips on corner weighting. It all makes sense now. I remember my ex-girlfriend's '01 VW having a lunchbox size weight in the trunk. The more I think about it it was prolly there to even out the weight.
    Don't worry, I'm not going to mess with the corner weighting, it sounds too complicated and I haven't heard of enough people doing it successfully. Plus I haven't upgraded my shox/springs yet. When I do I know exactly what I'm going to get though.... I believe they're called "DB2"'s and they have an adjustable ride height thats independant from the spring compression, I guess a lot like the TEIN's. They're 1,200 but I rode with them in my friends 4D DA and they were unbelievable. He was changing lanes on almost a hairpin turn at about 70mph. :P His tires didn't even leave the ground!!!

    My main priority now is putting this B18b together fast!!!!! My thermostat went out on my B18a (the one thats in there now) and this stupid old motor overheated again!!!! This just happened a couple of days ago and I can already tell it's eating oil AND coolant like a fat guy at a buffet :( I showed my new machine shop guy my rods and pistons and it seems like I just need one more OEM rod (the guy I bought it from threw it pretty bad) and than 4x new pistons & rings (he said that the sides/skirts were pretty chewed up). So since I've got to get 4 anyway I think I'm going to pick up some WIseco low compressions...Wiseco sells them at 8.4:1 & 9.5:1
    Garados: I should go with the 9.5:1 right?

    I'm bringing in the bare block 2maro and see if I need to get it overbored. And now the financial aspect is starting to kick me pretty hard. I want to balance the rotating assembly (obviously I can't sacrifice my drivability to pull my stock pressure plate & flywheel, plus they're 15yrs old each, plus I wanted to get a lightweight flywheel anyway persuant to Harry's recommendation so I've got to order all that stuff too...
    What do you guys think about Exedy? ACT?
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    If you're going to be going with forced induction right away, then I'd say go with the 8.5:1. If you're going to be naturally aspirated for a while (a few months to a year or more), go with the 9.5:1 so you don't have a weak motor before you get FI.

    I'd recommend ACT, just because that's the only one I have experience with. I had the Heavy Duty pressure plate with a Street/Strip clutch. That's the HDSS package, just incase you were wondering =P It was very streetable, held really nicely, took lots of abuse (8k rpm clutch slips ... don't ask, I was young and stupid ... now I'm just young ... and mildly stupid), and was overall a really nice clutch kit.

    Good luck with the buildup and continue with the updates ;)

    So, I just installed a new suspension setup on the miata. Tein S-Tech springs on koni yellows. It's absolutely amazing compared to the stock setup, but I found that the front driver bumpstop is GONE, so I need to take that one back out and put a new stop in.

    Anyways, onto impressions. First off, the parts. The konis were everything I hoped they'd be: easy to adjust, easy to change height, and overall was a good product. The Tein springs were really nice for the money. They have plastic/rubber coatings on the bottom and top coils, so it should stay quiet for a while.

    Installation was fairly straight forward. About 1.5 hours per corner in the front, 1 each in back. The front was a little tricky. I had to break the front balljoint loose that connects the control arms. Other than that, it was a standard install. When it came time to put the Teins on the konis, they were much shorter than the stockers, like 2-3 inches shorter than stock in front, and more than 5 in the back! I put the springs on the stock location in the front and about a quarter inch higher in back, just to save some suspension travel.

    After installation. Put the car down and I was VERY surprised. The front was about an inch higher than before. The back was the same height as before. The Teins offer .75-1" drop all around ... so that tells me that my stock suspension (konis with stock springs), especially in the front, was SHOT.

    Driving impressions. On full hard, the car is much flatter and much more predictable around rougher surfaces, and sticks to the road much more than before, especially on bumps and such. Under braking and acceleration, the car doesn't pitch up as much. I don't know if I'm feeling the car correctly, but it seems as if braking is much more efficient (it stops real good now).

    Real driving impressions: on full hard, turn in is wonderful, stability is good, still understeers a little bit (gnarly front sway bar :P ), and full-throttle exits are very controlled, with a little bit of neutral sliding on the way out. On soft, the car soaks up bumps very well. On railroad tracks in a turn, the car tracks nicely, whereas before it would skitter and drift out of the turn.

    Final review: tein did a good job with the springs, they're very nicely packaged and the spring rates are very nice for a street car, but having them be a little stiffer would be nice. The drop is reasonable, but even so, I'll choose travel over looks anyday of the week. Konis ... well, there's nothing really to say. They're a great shock.

    Last things to do: get the front bumpstop installed, get sticky rubber, go auto-x when the season starts up again ..., oh yeah, and get an alignment ;)
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    so, I installed the new bumpstop on the driver front corner, and WOW! It's amazing! the tire no longer scrapes on the bottom of the fender, and i can take turns much harder now. It's wonderful ^_^ Just wanted to share :P
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    I 'm glad you like the setup. One question: did you get brand new Konis? are they used? because you had Koni Yellows before, didn't you?

    As far as the car handling better with the bumpstop, it means that you are riding on the bumpstop when turning. That's not supposed to be the case. You 're only supposed to hit the bumpstop when you go over a large bump or a pothole. This means the springs rates are too low/soft. I 'm not saying oh no, take the springs off the car, etc. Many people ride on the bumpstops. It's ok to touch them a little under hard cornering, but in auto-x it usually hurts your times. The tire should not have scraped on the fender without the bumpstops. I really think the springs are too soft and I would do one of the following in that order of preference:

    1. Cut the front bumpstops in half (it's usually recommended by the spring manufacturer)
    2. Raise the front springs on a higher spring perch (like 1/2" or so) on the shock.

    Another strong possibility is the front Konis are old and worn out and are compressing easily and excessively. I had this happen to both my front Konis after 4yrs of racing and abuse. The rebuild took care of that. I also found out that the lower your car is the faster the Konis will go unless you get them shortened. So you 're doing the right thing by not going too low.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    yeah, the bumpstops are being ridden on, but only on hard turns and turns with ruts and bumps and such. I must say, though, that with the miatas, the bumpstops are very well integrated into the suspension travel. As per Tein's instructions, i took off some of the bumpstop, so the transition into the bumpstop is very smooth. IIRC, that's how the stock miata suspension is supposed to be, meaning that the bumpstop is meant to be ridden on, but i could be wrong.

    The koni's are new, and the fronts can only be taken up about another 1/4 of an inch, so i don't think it'll help much. maybe when I get a little more adventurous, i'll pick up some ground controls with higher spring rates and see how it works.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    Well, since the suspension has had a good amount of time to settle and become ... settled, my view has changed. The car is very easy to control, the back end remains tame (it gets squirrely @ full throttle at high rpm's, though), and overall it's quite enjoyable. I am, however, thinking about getting a new rear sway bar, upgrading from ~10mm to 15-17mm. There are a few reasons for this. 1) the stock sway bar is rusted 2) the bushings are shot and 3) the high-speed understeer doesn't really make me excited.

    I dropped off my new driver-side fender today to get painted black, it should be done saturday morning, if I'm lucky. I think it's been quite long enough, as the replacement fender has been sitting in the garage for about a year now. I think it'll be nice having a smooth fender instead of a crumpled fender that was banged out with a hammer.

    So anyways, I'm also thinking about unbolting the rollbar and welding it to the chassis. I don't know if I should really do that, though. Perhaps re-aligning the bar mounts and tightening the bolts would be the better option. Anyways, the reasoning behind this is because I believe the chassis is twisted. This being said because neither door seals against the hard top, the driver side door doesn't close quite right, and the back passenger side of the car is just a little bit higher than the rest of the car.

    Anyways, I hope everybody had a good and safe Christmas and New Years. Hopefully y'all start posting again =P

    Take care,

  • boom1boom1 Posts: 3
    putting 18's on integras are not right at all dude...this car looks good on 15's-17's. one thing is your car gonna look like a monster car because its gonna be high...please don't tell me they're chrome too? dude you gotta read some import magazine.... :shades:
  • boom1boom1 Posts: 3
    we'll i got AEM V2 on my 95 gsr and it works pretty good...probably pushing another 5-15 ponies....about your spark plugs i recomend NGK iridium....they're kind expensive but you'll feel the differences....take it easy... :shades:
  • boom1boom1 Posts: 3
    add AEM V2 intake and skunk2'll probably pushing another 20-30 seahorses....
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    Well, the only drastic change I've done to the miata was to shorten the intake piping. It's about half of the stock length now, and it's made quite a bit of difference. The car pulls freely to redline now and has actually become quieter. I don't understand that, but whatever =P

    Anyways, boom1, 20-30hp from two mods on a n/a gsr would be a very overexaggerated statement. Now, I could see that with cams ... after upping the compression and getting a freer flowing intake system(intake, throttle body, intake manifold) as well as the necessary exhaust modifications. I'd say that my old gsr got about 10 hp from ITR cams on top of the intake, header, test pipe, and exhaust along with the 7pound flywheel, mild headwork, widening of the intake valve seats, and new stainless steel exhaust valves. It could keep up with ITR's, so I'd say that those mods were good for 20-25 hp, if that.

    Anyways, where is everybody else?
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    I'm still here. ;)
    Updates: block is done, balancing rotating assembly. going with a T03/T04e hybrid turbo and I'm gonna have the IC tubing custom made to fit my FMIC and my DSM BOV. I figure I'm only about $1,000-2000 away from having a 2100lb g2 w/~220HP & 190 ft./lbs torque... wooohoo!!! :surprise:
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    what all did you do to the block? Did you sleeve it or put a block guard in? What internals did you put in there? How big is the core for the IC? any head work?
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    I just honed and decked the Block .05 oversized to fit the 9.5:1 Wisecos and Eagle Billet rods. I also had them balance the rotating assembly w/ my new Exedy pressure plate & 12.5lb flywheel... They had to grind the crank down to .020 undersized just to even out where the journal took a beating from the thrown rod (I think #1 or #4). Supposedly the less weight on the crank as opposed to the rods (bigger bearings) is to be more efficent!?!?! do u know?!

    No blockgaurd- I heard if they don't do it right I can lose the block to warped sleeves or overheating issues b/c of cooling probs. plus I heard that the stock sleeves should be good to 15psi- and I have the ARP head studs too. The guys on H-T seem to boost a lot harder on stock internals so Im not too worried. ;)

    I haven't even gotten to the head but I plan on doing a Crower valve train w/turbo cams... the machine shop wants $300-400 to put the valvetrain in and seat the valves and deck the head... is that reasonable??? seems high!!

    I want to get the $150 Full Race IC-8.0" - I want to paint it black (sleepermode) but I've heard you can get it anonized (do u know about this?) and it has a similar effect. I haven't bought it yet... open to suggestions
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    the bottom end seems to be in order. I'm not too sure about the efficiency of the weight differences between the crank and the rods, but if I had to take a stab at it, the less weight, the better ... until things get too weak and break.

    The 300-400 bucks sounds about right for that work ... going off of 75/hour, that's 4-5 hours of work there, and that's about right for all of that stuff. Of course, you could always assemble the head yourself, and only take the bare head there to get it decked.

    As far as an anodized intercooler, I'm not sure. Haha, I've been out of the honda game too long =P Anyways, if neither of those don't work, perhaps some black pantyhose or stalkings to put over the intercooler :P
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,137
    Nothing new to report here. Just going to try some softer spring rates this season and put a 2.5" test pipe on and the T1R 2.5" catback exhaust. Then in the fall it's going up for sale and I 'll be looking for a used S2000.

    I see we made a monster out of 90gs! Mostly your fault Phoy because you recommended he rebuild the motor and mod it :) I only recommended sway bars and a spring/shock combo and look what happened!

    So 90gs how much have you spent so far? What will be the total after the turbo is in? Just curious.
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