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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • Well, in a few words, THEY SUCK!!!!! No real illumination except the 20 feet in front of the car.....it's better using the foglights and lowbeams over the high beams. My Ram pickup has brighter parking lights than these headlights. Drove with highs on for an hour and no one blinked me as blinding them. Lens all appear bright and clear, but the beam pattern is none.

    Any ideas on replacements? Already going to pull the crap foglights out and get some good 55w H3s in there. Otherwise, love this car, as long as I don't have to drive at night!!!
  • sickofit2sickofit2 Posts: 1
    yes I can tell you how to fix it for 12 dollars, just look under the hood .driver side ,
    on firewall.there are three resistors side by side / take out the center resistor ,
    replace . it will correct your alarm problem. you should see a green light come on when you lock it and close the door . also make sure your door adjar (red light)
    located @top right of dash panel . I own a 97 lxi sebring coupe. my car was acting up sometimes . it was a nightmare .it took me two mounths to find the resistor was out ( it cost $12.00 ). after i changed the distributer,cap ,rotor,plugs
    cranck shaft sensor.and the (ecm) which is the main brain for the car . it was'nt
    out either.
  • Thanks Russell I followed the above directions above on my 1996 Sebring JX and I couldn't be happier with the result whole thing took about an hour from disassemble to reassemble.

    ChazTheFixItMAn
  • claudetteclaudette Posts: 3
    Bigdogvt,

    I just got my 2000 Sebring out of the shop after it being there for a week. See msg 274 for problem. Anyway, they replaced the solenoid pack and the transmission controller....$1000. Had to rent a car to get back and forth so that set me back $300. What an expensive week and what a way to celebrate the 4th of July.
  • jets806jets806 Posts: 2
    a/c and heat only work on highest setting.any comments or suggestions welcome.trying to find cheapest way to fix it without paying to much.
  • lilonelilone Posts: 2
    I just bought a 2003 Sebring LX Sedan and it is already giving me a problem. When I drive long distances...like over 45 minutes at a time I start to hear a "clicking" noise...it sounds like it is coming from the driver's side strut area...it does it for a few minutes then it stops. The car is still under warranty but it is frustrating considering I have only had this car for 2 weeks. It starting doing this a not even a week after I bought it. Does anyone know what the problem could possibly be so I can have some idea what to tell them when I bring it in to get fixed? Has anyone had a similar problem? Give me some feedback PLEASE!

    Frustrated Owner,
    LiLoNe!
  • wwatsonwwatson Posts: 1
    I have an '01 and the same thing is happening... I took it to Midas to have the AC recharged and they say that it is in the heater control panel. The panel that controls the three dials.... heat, fan speed and vents etc...

    Said that it need to be replaced. I called the dealership on the part becuase no one else has one. The quoted me $113. But he said there was a bulletin about this part... something about re-programing them.

    Don't know... think I am going to just buy the panel and see if that works
  • jackb1jackb1 Posts: 1
    My 2000 Sebring Jxi Convertible starts just fine, but immediately begins to idle rough. This continues for about 30 seconds to a minute and then the idle evens out and the car runs fine. I have replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap and the problem still exists. Please send me any advice as to how to correct the problem. My 1998 Sebring Limited has NEVER idled like this one. They both have approx 54000 miles. HELP!
  • My 1998 Sebring won't turn over but the radio, horn, and everything works. It's weird but what's even more weird is that I'll switch a fuse under the hood and it will work. Please help me because I've done this all year and my mechanic has no idea what's wrong. Thanks for the help!
  • eph1eph1 Posts: 1
    Any update on this issue or does Sebring5 get robbed by a dealer? Anyone know the problem and/or solution here
  • peachy12peachy12 Posts: 1
    Sorry to hear about all the problems with the Sebring. I myself have been experiencing problems since I purchased mine. I bought a used 2002 Sebring LX with only 21,000 miles the end of January 2005. I also purchased the extended Ultra Warranty with only a $50 deductible (and is supposed to cover everything except 3 items....tires, brakes, and windows).

    About 2-months after purchase I was in downtown Atlanta and mine started making a popping noise under the hood but was also felt in the steering at times and it scared me to death. It did it all that afternoon (I live about 45 miles south of Atlanta) then suddenly it stopped as quickly as it started. Right before I took it to the shop (a few days later) my air conditioner also tore up.

    When I took it in I was told it was some sort of "rods" that go up into something and was told the warranty wouldn't cover it. I was also told by the mechanics assistant that it would not hurt the car nor myself that it was simply the rods and car adjusting to the road. I was then told if I wanted it fixed I would have to pay $190 just for the parts plus the labor. So needless to say after being told it really wasn't a problem and I didn't really have $190+ labor I didn't get it fixed. My air conditioner problem was some sort of valve and I only had to pay the $50 deductible to have it repaired.

    Well a few weeks later guess what.......the air conditoner tore up Again! This time I called the salesman that sold me the car really upset. He assured me the car would be repaired again and not cost me a penny plus he would give me a loaner car. Upon taking the car immediately after work I was assured they would take the car right in and find out what was wrong. They called me the next day and said they couldn't find anything wrong and when I picked it up it was working....cold as ice.

    Another few weeks passed by and a friend from work and me went to lunch in my car. On the way the air was ice cold but after eating and getting back into the Sebring the air never would get cold. It was like I had the heater on full blast! I immediately drove to the dealership and demanded a mechanic come out right then. I didn't turn the car off or anything.

    After waiting for 10 minutes one came out and he fiddled with the switch, then popped the hood and said I'll be back in a few minutes. After waiting for another 10 minutes a female worker came over and said the mechanic thought the switch where you turn it off and on was bad and they'd have to order it. I was then told it would be ordered that afternoon (friday). I returned to work and when I went to go home guess what.....the air was working and it did this work not working thing all weekend and I was really ticked then my husband got ticked.

    He called the salesman that monday and gave him an earful. He also told him about the popping under the hood and he told my husband that no knocking noise under the hood is good and he (the salesman) wanted them to check it out again when they worked on the air again. Right after the salesman and my husband talked I got a call from the female worker saying they just had ordered the part for my air that was supposed to be ordered on friday and it should be in by wednesday. Oh did I mention the salesman couldn't find a record of them even checking out the popping noise in the beginning?

    The part came in and I was again given a loaner car to drive. They kept my car for 5 days (2 of them they were closed). When they called to tell me it was ready I was told they replaced the lower left control arm that it is what was popping. I looked that part up and what I found was very "Scary". It said that if this part goes bad...cracks, breaks, crumbles, etc. that it can tear apart and cause a wreck because you will have no control!!!

    Well yesterday is when I got the car back and I have already heard the popping noise several times still. I am driving for a longer distance tomorrow (it seemed that is when mine did it the most) so we'll see how it goes then. I feel sorry for the dealership if it continues to do it once my husband get a hold of them again. We live in middle Georgia and are going in my car to Orlando Florida this coming week for vacation and I have to admit its a scary thought. Don't buy a Chrysler Sebring........I wish I never had bought this car and I never again will own a Chrysler, Dodge, or Jeep product. Buyers Beware.
  • I recently bought a used and abused Sebring. I bought it on the lot when the lot owner had just received it. He hadn't gotten the chance to look at it very closely, but he was still open to selling it. I took it for a test drive and found that when I was at a stop for awhile, the car would have problems going in and out of gear when I applied pressure to the gas. I have also noticed that the check engine light flashes when I do this. Although it has these problems, I still bought it, I got him to give me a deal that was way below book price. From reading the other comments, Sebrings don't seem to be a good choice as a decent car.
    I was wondering if anybody else has had these problems, and if they could tell me how to fix it, how much it might cost, and any other information I might need about my new used car. Or if I should just give up on this car and go look for a better, more reliable one.
  • scratchscratch Posts: 1
    Aurgh! I purchased this car recently with only 120,000 KM on it. Very clean and well looked after. After driving for a week with now problems, went out one morning and it won't start. I'm not getting spark. I can hear the fuel pump running as it should for a couple of seconds when the key is turned to the "on" position. When I do the "on-off-on-off-on" to check ECM codes, I get none. in fact I don't even get the engine light to flash anything. Could it be the ECM is screwy?
  • jed1967jed1967 Posts: 6
    Got a '97 Jxi with 117k miles on it. Recently I noticed that after short trips (2-3 miles), when I would go to park the fan would be running. The other day I made two quick 2 mile trips and by about the 3rd mile, I saw my temperature light on. I quick hit the A/C to turn it off and got to where I was going.

    I replaced the radiator cap because it was in pretty bad shape. I'm still running hot, tho - For about the first 2 miles it's fine, but then you'll see the temp gauge move up quickly to the middle of the gauge. Then it'll slowly climb toward H, and it'll hover back and forth between just below H and the middle. And the fan is always running.

    I'm thinking maybe the next step is the thermostat - but darned if I can figure out where the silly thing is. So question 1 is, does this sound like a simple thermo issue? I don't see leaks so I don't think it's the plugs or hoses, and my coolant levels are good. Maybe the water pump? But if it is worth changing the thermo (I already have a new one in a box), can someone tell me where I'd look for it? I thought it was right under the cap assembly but I am stumped.

    Thanks in advance!!
  • spudicspudic Posts: 1
    Sounds like a Blower Resistor as your fan still works on high. I just replaced mine last week in a 2003 Sebring - took about 45 minutes. Exact same thing on my Windstar last year. The Blower Resistor retailed for $45.95 Canadian from Chrysler, and required some X-acto knife trimming of the plastic plenum to fit the new part as it is slightly larger than the original. I hope the new part lasts longer as it went 4000km after the 60000km warranty ended. The cutting is apparently explained in a Chrysler Bulletin which the parts guy described to me. Fairly simple job once you get used to working in a confined space under the passenger dash and figure out how to disconnect the wiring. Hope this helps.
  • prodijyprodijy Posts: 1
    OK- I know this reply is a lil' late- but I spent a week looking for some help on this particular item myself (didn't find a darn thing to help) & I thought I could pass along what I've learned.
    There simply isn't enough room to pull the whole filter housing out of the engine compartment w/out first removing the band securing the fat air tube to the engine. So just undo the band @ the engine connection (couple turns of a screw), unhook the cables attached to the filter box & anything else that may get yanked when pulling the box out *Except the SENSOR*- I didn't want to risk damaging it so I left it stuck in the air tube and was careful not to yank that tube out entirely. Then you will have the filter housing box & air tube separated from the vehicle but still stuck in the engine compartment (again, except for the sensor). It will take a few minutes of fiddling & adjusting- but you'll have just enough room to push the unit towards the steering column giving you just enough clearance (less than 1") to pull the housing & tube UP & OUT & clear of the engine (there's just enough sensor wire to get it almost clear of the engine compt). Now you can use those snaps to pull the tube clear of the housing & while your in there- why not clean out some of those trappings caught in the dust/leaf trap in the bottom of the air filter housing. As long as you can put it all back together w/ out missing a step you'll be good to go! Hope this helps those who, like me, couldn't find a single article on replacing this item. Good Luck!
  • vagirl78vagirl78 Posts: 2
    I am having troubles with my 96 sebring conv.. My car starts up but once I take my foot off of the gas it shuts off. Lights, radio and everything else works. What is this?
  • I have a 2004 Touring Convertible. I bought it new last September and have just this week started having a problem. When I put the top down all 4 windows are supposed to go down automatically. The drivers front and passenger back window are staying up. My car is still under warranty so I'll be taking it in but am wondering if anyone else is having this problem.
  • sondeesondee Posts: 1
    I just wanted to thank you for posting this information. I bought a 96 Sebring LXI and the next day tried to start it. We had no spark and no answers. I did I web search and found this post. I replaced the middle relay with a standard Bosch relay instead of waiting for my local dealer to special order the "proprietary" relay. It started right up. The only thing that makes the stock relay different is the cuff that attaches to the mount. A zip tie solved that problem. Thanks again for the info and saving me who knows how much money on this issue. My dealer had no idea. The part was $8.
  • nan2nan2 Posts: 1
    I'm in serious trouble. My security system is activating and not allowing me to start my car and I was supposed to be at work a half hour ago. I live 15 miles out of town in a remote area. How do I disengage the blankety blank security system?
    Thanks for your immediate help.
This discussion has been closed.