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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions

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  • neonitisneonitis Posts: 11
    Are all of you '05/'06sebring owners running 5w20 oil viscosity as stated on oil refill cap on motor?Is that what the Chrysler service dept is recommending us to use,here in Dallas,Texas, where the summers are in the 100 degree hot? I just installed a K&N air filter in V6 2.7. Drove to Louisiana, 720mile trip, trip computer read 28.9 mpg.I did not reset computer after filter install, so i may have to let ECU calibrate for new mixture.Anyone else using the K&N air filter on sebring?Has anyone have to change out their sparkplugs in the '05 sebring touring conv? Were the originals platinum? and how hard was it to R&R? Anybody know where i can get a front strut bar for the '05 sebring touring conv?
  • :) I found this forum because I was thinking of trading in my 97 sebring convertible for a newer one. I do have 203,500 miles on it... yes I know I will get nothing for it! I was so sucked in when I bought it in 2000 with 67,000 on it already. Well I have to say it is not a perfect car but what car is??? I did totally trash it in an accident about 4 months after I got it, bent the frame, broke and axle cracked the other (had to replace it later), blew out a tire, ruined the front bumper... probably more, I forget now. It seems I have had similiar problems to what every one else has said, a ticking in the motor, groaning a/c, wet in the floor after a heavy rain (that was just this year), brakes, etc... I did get a new starter last year and that fuel valve... again, forgetful! the one that let the car run fine, as long as it had gas, as soon as I let up on the gas, it sputtered out. Well, that was a $280 repair on a trip to Atlanta. ALL in ALL.... I don't feel I have put more than the average person does into their car, I have had it almost 6 years... it has been fantastic in the winter, doesn't like rain much, little annoying things like the locks and the rear defroster falling off... but it seems we all dealt with these. I love my car, I do think I need to trade it in soon though. Is there really a car out there without problems?
  • There's a service bulletin out for the Sebring that addresses this problem. Apparently they put some new rivets in that hold the strut towers. Yes, I'm using 5-20 Oil in mine. Using Castrol GTX. Dealer advised me to stick with recommended viscosity.
  • neonitisneonitis Posts: 11
    Rivets? I look at the strut tower assy on my sebring, and there are four "bolts" about 16-18mm socket size.This being viewed from the top with hood open.Are you talking about down under the front,by strut assys? Or do you know?Do you have specific service bulletin information?And will you post on here?Like bulletin number, date of issue, etc.Have you had this done to yours?Were there other service bulletins for the '05 chrysler sebring convertible?and what did they entail? Sorry for the million ?'s but we are here to help each other. right?
  • nlt81nlt81 Posts: 1
    Hey everyone I'm new here.I have a 2003 Sebring LX and at night when I turn on the lights sometimes the windshield wipers come on out of no where. Its been doing this more and more over time and I have no idea why. Has anyone had this problem or know what I can do to fix it.

    Thanks
  • kyfrankkyfrank Posts: 3
    I live in a state that requires a front license plate. My 1997 Sebring has no bracket or place for one. Can anyone give me help about this problem? :confuse:
  • ghost82ghost82 Posts: 4
    Hello, I have a 1996 Sebring LX 2.5L VIN "N" 75K mi. I am having similar problems as you. I have replaced cap, also the PCM. I see the resistors you are talking about, but had a couple questions. I dont have the key fob, but when I lock the door with the key, the alarm arms and the green light comes on. I have to unhook the battery. Does that mean it isn't that relay? The car had died while driving on the previous owner so I picked it up cheap. They had complained of a rough idle when it did start, then no start after dying. They recommended PCM, so thats the first place I started, no change. I ended up checking distributor cap and replacing after. Rotor didn't look bad, so I checked resistance on distributor(ignition coil). Primary is at 5.3ohm on Chiltons 6-8ohm range. Secondary is at 18.3ohm on a 12-18 range. Is that too far out? I am getting weak spark on the secondary spark test for cylinders 2,4,& 6. Looks red, not blue. Plugs are wet and you can smell gas when I pull them after trying to start. I checked the wire that I think carries power from PCM to the coil, it is R/G. Chilton calls it the ignition coil driver. It is reading 1.0 mV key on, then 2.29V while cranking. Checked at the PCM, plugged in. That isnt enough supply is it? That is where I am so far. Any thoughts would be GREAT!! I am a week into it so far. Were these the same symptoms you had?
  • oldcemoldcem Posts: 309
    The Chrysler dealer didn't give me a service bulletin number. I know they had to take out the plastic fender liners to get to the rivets they replaced. Don't know about service bulletins for convertibles - my car is a 4 door Signature Series. Unfortunately its in the shop again - pucked its tranny at 30k miles.

    Regards:
  • I have a 04 sebring sedan ....2.7 V6 I have taken it back to the dealership 2-3 times. The ran computer test all times and could find nothing. My car sporadically idles up whenever I go to slow down or park. It also has the tendency to idle down and cut off at odd times. INCLUDING when i'm in the middle of an intersecton. :mad: NO CHECK ENGINE lights are on! COULD someone please tell me what it could be?????
  • erniedj5erniedj5 Posts: 1
    i had the same problem with my brothers ford probe. same symptoms as yours and it was a distributor. Check that out once. good luck
  • he11benthe11bent Posts: 24
    Sounds like a vapor locked gas tank. I would suggest changing the gas cap first. If that doesn't do it, next time pull the fuel line in the engine comp loose to see if there is fuel coming out with the key turned so the fuel pump is running. Troubleshoot from there.
  • he11benthe11bent Posts: 24
    Mine didn't crank or anything. Everything I researched said the starter on these models get dead spots in them and in if it lines up just right, nothing. I changed the starter four months ago. No more problem. Also make sure the ground to the starter (where it is bolted to the block), PCM & the main ground to the block/frame are clean.

    Is that the problem you are having or is yours cranking and not turning over.
  • ghost82ghost82 Posts: 4
    Mine is cranking and not turning over. I am getting no compression now on cylinders 2&4. I am getting only 75psi compression on cylinder 6. I havent checked 1, 3, &5 since they are under the intake. I was told by somebody else that it was the timing belt skipped some. So I should be expecting to replace some valves and probably a piston. That is the only answer I can come up with to why it wont start. I checked with an inline spark tester and I am getting spark, one got me good. And there is gas.
  • blackjxiblackjxi Posts: 1
    I have owned my car for 2 1/2 years, it was previously owned by one of my family members which bought it new. I have never had any problems out of it. I guess I just got lucky and bought a non defective one! I do have a question, I was told by the Chrysler Dealership that Black with a black top was the most rare color combo the had. Is that true? Mine is black w/black top, and charcoal leather.
  • kyfrankkyfrank Posts: 3
    Thanks, I will try that if/when it happens again.
  • 77722777772277 Posts: 7
    I have a 2001 LX conv. with 50k miles -- I searched previous and did not find this exact problem:

    Occasionally, when I start driving, a high pitched whine comes from the front wheels. It's not the brakes -- this it totally speed-based. With a cold engine, the noise starts around 25 mph and gets louder the faster I drive. Taking my foot off the gas and/or applying the brake does not stop or change the whine -- only falling back below 25 mph stops the noise. The more warmed up the engine gets, the faster I need to go before the whine starts. Eventually (after driving/idling for a few minutes) the whine disappears altogether.

    This only seems to happen in the Spring and Fall, and not all the time then, either. Rotating the tires did not fix. Can't take it to a shop, because by the time I get there, the car is warmed up enough not to make the noise -- and I don't feel like leaving it there overnight, just in case the car would decide to not to whine the following morning.

    I can live with the whine, but just want to make sure there is not something more serious going on. Now, the whine sounds just like when you squeeze the neck of a balloon to let air out with a -- high pitched whine.

    Does this sound at all familiar to anyone? And what does it mean?

    Thanks--
    --R
  • ghost82ghost82 Posts: 4
    Hello, I had this going on another strand but doesn't seem to be the same problem. I bought this car off somebody after it died while driving, and wouldn't start again. Before it died there was also a complaint of a very low, rough idle. I was told that it was the PCM, so I replaced that and no difference. Then I started checking things by Chiltons instructions. Checked the distributor cap and rotor, then replaced. I checked the Auto Shutdown Relay, then replaced. I checked the ignition coil in the distributor and it was fine. I checked spark with an inline tester and I have that. There is fuel apparent on the spark plugs when I pull them, and pump is noticeable when you turn the key. I have an Optima red top trying to start it. I checked compression the other day, and had none on 2&4, but 75psi on 6 (1,3,&5 are under intake). I was told skipped timing by a buddy, but these are interference engines so I should hear something like, valves hitting pistons. I cranked the engine by hand at the crank pulley, and I didn't hear or feel anything hitting. I've felt an interference that had internal problems. I looked after a little while and noticed that the throttle blade was not moving while cranking, to let air in. This would have given me a low compression reading. So, I tried flooring the gas (blade wide open) and the thing actually acted like it was going to start, then back to cranking again soon after. There is a TSB on ALLDATA talking about flashing the PCM, it was a repair procedure related to a No Start condition??? That is where I am at on this thing, after a week. If ANYBODY has any ideas or questions, PLEASE respond. THANK YOU!!!
  • lhoffmanlhoffman Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Sebring convertible that consistently leaks air from the tires. It has been caused by the wheels exhibiting corrosion around the rim. I have been told by two Chrysler parts managers, as well as two different tire shops who fixed the problem, that the problem is a common one. I have been told by the Chrysler Corporation that they will not participate in any replacement of the wheel or wheels , because the warranty is out due to excessive mileage. I have presently 39,000 miles on the vehicle. I bought it used, so in reality I have 9000 miles. I was not advised by anyone in any Chrysler dealership prior to purchasing the vehicle that a problem existed. No such warning was printed on the list of potential major risks. The cost of the replacement wheels is $560, and the dealership has presently five in stock. That simply tells me that there has indeed been a problem with replacement. Anyone with ideas? Thanks
  • pjlipjli Posts: 1
    I had the same problem but with a Mazda, it was the distributor which fails to provide signal. had it changed, everything OK.
  • he11benthe11bent Posts: 24
    The timing belt could be a definate cause, if the engine shut off while youe driving it.
    This is a close tolerance engine, it may be ugly.
  • My wife stopped to buy gas today. Afterward the car wouldn't start back, it cranks good and had great fire from the plugs. After some troubleshooting I really think it is the fuel pump or f.p. relay. CAn anyone please tell me where the relay is located. In my experience with autos fuel pumps can but usually dont just die at once, also is the fuel filter in the tank or on the rails inline with the fuel line? Please help.
  • ghost82ghost82 Posts: 4
    I had something on this posted before. There was no compression on a few cylinders. I got the timing cover off and everything lined up there. The belt actually looks newer?? I got far enough to check cooling system pressure. It was empty, so I added water to it. When I pumped it up, water was pouring out from somewhere. I couldnt see for sure the intake wasnt off yet. Once i got that off, there was water puddled up in the galley, below the water pump tube. I decided to tear the front head off. In the process I was draining the oil and a whole bunch of water came out. Upon getting the head off, there was water sitting on top of the pistons. There is no noticeable breaks in the head gasket, nor noticeable cracks in the head. I cant get a hold of a precision straight edge. So I got a regular straight edge and you can see a big gap in the middle of the head. Wondering if it sounds like warping to anybody?? Or, hopefully, just the gaskets. I was able to check compression on the back head after getting the upper intake off. Two cylinders had no compression back there either. Anybody have any ideas, Please respond. Thanks!!
  • fanmanndfanmannd Posts: 3
    I agree they messed up. I'd like to see a copy of that policy. i have leased 2 Honda Pilots never a problem. They should want to keep you happy so they can continue to lease vehicles to you for many years to come. Seems like they want to rip you off. I always turn mine in before my agreement ends (even if i go over my miles) and as long as I re lease i'm ok.
  • next time it quits check for spark if no spark it will be the coil pack or ignition modul under distributor or on newer cars with out a distributor it will be under your coil pack hope this helps
  • dklynn2dklynn2 Posts: 6
    I'm new to the forum but used Edmunds to help me buy my used 98 JXi in '00 - I still LOVE it - except for the fogged up headlight casings. I'm almost to the point of not driving at night because I can't see. I was thinking of contacting Chrysler to ask about a safety warranty issue - definitely unsafe (any ideas on that?). Did the answer to this entry ("Some people use some fine sandpaper and wet sand it, some use rubbing compound") work? It looks to me to be on the inside, not outside.
  • Your mechanics solution to the engine missing due to fuel deposits is of interest. We have a miss in our Sebring which cannot seem to be resolved by any mechanic. All the parts that could possibly cause the miss have been replaced at great cost. I was wondering if you could offer any additional information about how you arrived at a solution, what chemical was used to clean the deposits or who I could contact to get more information about these deposits.

    Thanks
  • grellengrellen Posts: 1
    Hey y'all . . . I am reasonably intelligent but not a real mechanic. But I know I can do this and save a little money with a little help. The "service engine" light came on my wife's Sebring. She had Autozone run a diagnostic and it said O2 Sensor 1 was not working efficiently. Here comes the dumb question. Which one is O2 Sensor 1? I can get to any of them and change them pretty easily if I only knew which one was number 1. Can anyone help?

    Thanks,
    Greg
  • oldcemoldcem Posts: 309
    You're right the fog is on the inside. I've heard that misting the inside with oven cleaner, and, then rinsing them out good with water will help. Never tried it myself.

    Regards:
    OldCEM
  • he11benthe11bent Posts: 24
    Fine (not corse) rubbing compound worked great. Once I took the time and got mine cleaned up the first time, now I just give them a quick cleaning with it when I wash the car.
  • he11benthe11bent Posts: 24
    i suggest buying the manual at autozone for 12 bucks. Its will be the best money you ever spent.
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