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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions

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  • Well there must be some sort of breather valve or breather vent to replace the fuel being used with air. all cars have to have some form of this other wise as the car uses the gas, the tank would start to implode. Its like taking a plastic 20oz coke bottle and sucking the coke out of it with out letting air back into it.
  • i changed the air filter in my 2004 sebring,while doing so i broke the aic sensor that is located on the air filter hose. i replaced the sensor but,the problem is still there.i think a piece of plastic off the sensor might have fell into the throttle body.now when u crank it, the engine revs to 3000 rpms. and wont idle down. need help with this problem
  • dave718dave718 Posts: 1
    I'm in the market for a new car, and I'm considering a Sebring convertible, from 1 to 3 yrs old. Any gotcha's or gremlins I need to be aware of? Any perennial problems? I rented one a few years ago and thought it was a sweet ride, but *all* rentals are pretty sweet, in general.

    Thanks in advance
  • Hello to all Sebring owners out there in Chrysler world!!! My name is Matt and i just purchased a 1997 Chrysler Sebring LX with 127,000 miles on it. Couple of problems....

    1. When i start the vechile i hear like a streching noise when i put the car in reverse "sounds like a creaking noise when u tighten a rope".

    2. Drive the car for about 20 mins and when i stop at a stop light it starts to warm up going towards hot and the when i start goin again it resumes back to normal.

    3. The "mysterious" "check engine light" comes on when i start the vechile and stays on. Went and had the codes checked and i had a misfire in cyclinder 1&2 in this case supposly means o2 sensors needs to be replaced. Both Catalytic Converters need to be replaced and the O2 sensors are located on each of the converters.

    Is there anyone out there that has these problems please email me and let me know.

    Excellent site!!!

    matt :)
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    1. When i start the vechile i hear like a streching noise when i put the car in reverse "sounds like a creaking noise when u tighten a rope".

    2. Drive the car for about 20 mins and when i stop at a stop light it starts to warm up going towards hot and the when i start goin again it resumes back to normal.

    3. The "mysterious" "check engine light" comes on when i start the vechile and stays on. Went and had the codes checked and i had a misfire in cyclinder 1&2 in this case supposly means o2 sensors needs to be replaced. Both Catalytic Converters need to be replaced and the O2 sensors are located on each of the converters.


    Let's see......I have a 97 Sebring LXi Coupe with 56k on it and it sounds like it does similar things to yours.

    1. Mine makes the same noise, my little brother (mechanic) said its a solinoid for the tranny. Not sure if he's right, but it doesn't seem to affect the car at all.

    2. Don't have that issue.....make check the fan? Just guessing.

    3. I have the *check engine* light with a mind of its own as well. I spoke with the original owner of the car and she said its done that all its life, since it was new. She said they had put in numerous 02 sensors and it would still come on. Doesn't seem to bother that car so I ignore it. However, I do know my car needs new cats, so might have it done then.

    Great cars, mine I bought from a junkyard after it had run off the road and hit a tree with the driver's side rear, did some body damage and suspension damage. Fixed the suspension and have been driving it ever since.
  • gsorbogsorbo Posts: 1
    Hi everyone.

    Just bought a 97 Sebring JXI convertible with 80k miles. It's in pretty good exterior and mechanical shape and runs well. This is the first Sebring I've owned.

    I've got two issues that I was hoping someone might have some insight into:

    1) The driver's side power seat won't move forward or back. I can hear the switch engage, but nothing happens. The other two power lumbar switches on the same seat work fine up and down. :confuse:

    2) The fuel empty (dummy) light comes on and then goes off intermittently even with a near full tank. I've noticed that the fuel indicator goes down rapidly about 1/8th of a tank before returning to normal, which seems to trigger the dummy light to come on, then go off again. :confuse: This one concerns me as I had an old Bonneville that did something similar, and when it "thought" there was no gas left in the tank, the car would basically shut down.

    Any ideas before I take this to a mechanic would be greatly appreciated! :)

    Thanks!
  • hello to all again!!! well i took the sebring for the first long ride about 250 miles and no problem so far. sometimes im admitting black smoke and i check the oil it to me smell likes gas so anyone know what it could be???

    thxs

    oh by the way if ya likes sebrings come and check out my page http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendid=646254- 51
  • I am having the SAME problem! and my Engine light will not come on either!

    Did you eventually find out what was wrong and is it running fine now????

    what did you replace?!?!?! HELP HELP HELP!
  • I have been getting so many different reasons. It went from O2 sensors to air filters to fuel filter and fuel injector service. Now I am at the point where it is a fuel pump. I will let you know if that helps.
  • I have a 95 sebring and I had the same problem not too long ago and It took 10 days to find out that it is the crank shaft sensor and it cost about 60 bucks and takes less than 10 minutes to fix my suggestin is call all the auto stores in your area and get a price, but it is the crank shaft sensor
  • :cry: Ok here we go!!!

    1. i having the heads replaced on the car due to warpage in which its causing gas to go in to cylinders and cause major probs if not fixed. Major overhaul about to occur with new race performance brakes added.. grand total........................................1900.00 dollars

    ill keep you guys updated
  • I am experiencing the same problem. My car died 2x on the way to work today. Did you find out any info? Thanks!
  • jsamplejsample Posts: 2
    I own a 1997 Chrysler Sebring convertible JX, which I've had numerous problems with that I won't go into at this time. Suffice it to say there will never be another Chrysler in my life again. Latest problem is the power steering shakes and shimmies so much, it's almost impossible to drive. Any hints or solutions?
  • ok well heres the whole story... 1573 worth of resurfacing the heads and new head gasket. new timeing pully and belt. new thermostat and water pump and of course new raditor hoses. now i had a warranty on it and for some reason when i took it back to the dealership they found nothing wrong with it. so who knows whats really wrong!!!!

    laterz
    matt
  • jed1967jed1967 Posts: 6
    Hello everyone,

    Got a '97 Jxi and the SES light's been on a couple days now. Plugged in an OBD II scanner and got two codes. Both say that the O2 Sensor heater circuit has malfunctioned (one code for cylinder bank #1, sensor #1, and the other for cylinder bank #1, sensor #2).

    My Haynes manual fails me because the picture they show to demonstrate the location of the sensors is obviously NOT from a '97 Jxi! So my question is this: Does anyone know where the sensor in question is located? And I mean _exactly_ where it is - Assume I don't have much of a clue beyond what I've described in this e-mail.

    I am assuming that I'll need to replace the booger, but want to make sure it's plugged in first!

    Thanks in advance! :) Jim
  • I know where they are but since I am not smart with cars I will try to describe. One is in the front and one is up under. Basically they are hard to get to unless you are a mechanic. I just got mine changed. Hope this helps.
  • tr3alptr3alp Posts: 5
    Let me know if this ISN'T the right forum or thread to post to... ;-)

    I just bought a 2003 Sebring Ltd convertible and have some questions: [some were answered when I bought the manuals]

    1- Why are the running lights ONLY for Canada?
    2- Can we make them work ourselves?
    I checked the two fuse boxes and the fuse and relay seem to be there.

    3- It only had 1 key, so I paid a dealer $65 for an unprogrammed key. They want another $40 to program it. The manual says it takes ~ 40 seconds if you have 2 good keys. So, besides the extortion, Is there a way to program a key ourselves with only 1 good key?

    4- The left front has a varying shake. Sometimes the whole cowl/windshield seem to be shifting. Otherwise, it feels solid. Anyone else have that problem? :confuse:
  • My husband and I bought a 2001 sebring last year and lately the car has been given us numerous problems. The newest problem is the car will not start. The engine light comes on and where the mileage is, it says done. After 10-15 minutes we then are able to start the car and is will be fine for a few days when we have the problem again. At first we thought the alarm was causing the problem so our mechanic removed the fuse so it wouldn't act up. Has anyone had the same problem, or any suggestions on what could be causing this sporadic behavior? :confuse: We loved the car when we first bought it, but lately we don't have many nice things to say. :mad:
  • fgreenefgreene Posts: 1
    could you repost the photos - I have had this problem for about 5
    years and generally ignored it. The DMV will not perform an emmissions
    test on a vehicle that the od does not work - funny thing is it does work
    as the #'s keep chagning - the display cuts out.

    Or if you could email them to me.

    thanks a bunch
  • rg2002rg2002 Posts: 5
    Was wondering if anyone has had the same problems with their car as i have. It likes to stahl and sometimes wont restart for 5-10 minutes. out of nowhere for no reason the RPMs will go really high n it will start to shake n the RPMs will drop n it will try to die. if i catch it in time i can get it to stay running. It has been in and out of the shop 7 times in the last 4 1/2 months i have owned it. with no results. Now it is sitting in the shop after 2 weeks this time and it is now dead and will not restart at all. they still have no idea what is wrong with my car. If anyone has had any problems like this please let me know and let me know how you fixed the problem. Thanks
  • My car is doing the same thing as yours. I will be on the highway then it will do a little jerk and will slowly decrease speed. Sometimes it would die on me, but sometimes it stayed cranked but I still couldn't drive. After about sitting for 30 minutes it will drive with no problems. It went from them saying my O2 sensors (which i changed) to my fuel filter (same) to my air filter (same) to now I need a fuel pump. I haven't gotten it yet though. I just keep my tank full and so far it has been doing great. I hope it will help. I am so confused I don't know what to say either. Good Luck.
  • So you are saying that as long as your gas tank is full it wont stall on the freeway on you?!?!

    That is ODD ODD ODD!!! Tell me more about that? Cuz I Have a mechanic trying to diagnose this issue, and I didnt know that if you kept the tank full it wouldnt do it!

    WOW, VERY strange!
  • It seems to be working fine for me. My car had been stalling at first only a couple of times a month. Then it moved to being stalled quite frequently. It would stall all the time. So my fiance' told me to just keep it on full. So over the past 3 weeks every times it gets 3/4 full I just put in 8 dollars to fill it back up. It hasn't stalled on me yet. I am in the procress of talking to Chrysler because we all seem to be having the same problem and I am trying to get them to look into if furthur.
  • WOW!

    How ODD is THAT! Well keep in touch! I am going to call MY mechanic and see what HE says about that! PLEASE Keep me informed, as I WILL do the same as soon as I know more!

    Keith in Dallas :)
  • I have a 96 Lxi 2.5 V6 that had the same problem, and it is not too hard to fix. I have 4 O2 sensors. They are all located on the exhaust pipes before catalytic converter. They look like a lipstick holder screwed into a pipe. They usually have 4 wires in a cable. One sensor is between the radiator and front of the engine around the air conditioner pump. Two are under the engine. The last one is the hardest. It is between the engine and the firewall and is pointed up. It was best to get that one from under the car. After doing some internet research, the best advise is replace them all because 3 months from now the other 2 will fail. You can remove and install 3 of them with an open end wrench. The one in the back needs a $10 O2 socket that fits on a ratchet. They are not that bad to install. There are two lengths of cable harness. 2 are short and 2 are long. I liked Napa's short cable ($60 each). Chrysler dealers were the only ones that had long cables that fit (around $100 each). Use anti seize grease on the threads. Tourqe is around 25 ft/lbs.
  • I am having a hard time removing the drain plug on my 3500 truck. I think this type of plug is on most newer dodge products, and this is the last year of its design due to problems.... is there a special tool to use or due I just pull it out or drill it... Help, Help, Help.....
    Kenny
  • My wheels are also cracking and I have not replaced them yet. Did you get new ones from the dealer or just went with new rims? How much do they cost? My dash lights have gone out and I now have a loud popping noise on the right front when I turn. So many problems with this 98 Sebring Convertible Limited Edition. All of the air conditioning components have been replaced twice. Now I have a ticking noise from the engine that goes and comes. Any solutions?
  • ehart20ehart20 Posts: 1
    I've got a 2002 LXI Convertible, which is also a piece of junk! There should be a class action suit against Chrysler. I wonder how many known problems are played down by them. I've had warped front break rotors, windows that wouldn't go down together properly when the roof was lowered, iffy climate control, rattle at the right-rear, intermittent/now solid airbag light, all except for the last while under warranty! The dealer suggested and extended warranty!!!!! they also have the gnorskies to run an ad on this page full of complaints! Who are these people?
  • jd82145jd82145 Posts: 3
    I recently bought a 2005 Touring, I love the car but I have one problem I have a slight shimmy between 35 and 55, has anyone have this problem or had a problem like this? CONFUSED...... please comment... :)
  • I had the same problem with my 2001 Sebring LXi Sedan over the summer. It started with the car cranking a long time before starting over the winter, then as the weather warmed (unrelated, I think) it seemed like it might stall when it first caught, but never really died. Had it looked at several times, but 5* dealer could find nothing wrong.

    Fast forward to eight weeks ago, and after running several errands without any trouble or threatened stalling, the car just wouldn't start. No turnover, nothing, but all the electronics worked so the battery was fine. Turned out to be a dead fuel pump, and all the issues since the winter were symptoms of it dying. Had the fuel pump replaced (not the cheapest repair) and it's been starting/running perfectly since then.

    I'm with you, enfield76. I loved the car when I first got it new in 2001, but while I still enjoy driving it when everything's working, it's given me too much grief and only has 65K miles. The sun roof has leaked, and I've noticed the seal is starting to get loose again. One of the trunk struts keeps popping off its ball joint, and the other is loose and about to do the same. Hubcaps fall off regularly. I have to replace a tie rod coupling at least twice a year. AC/heater fan resistor has been replaced three times. I have a short in the dashboard light switch for the third time. Just had to replace a few clips in the driver side door panel because it was falling off, and even with the new clips, the panel has warped enough that it's still pulling away in the top center. Even though I use a windshield sun shade and open the sun roof about two inches when the weather is hot, the driver side seat leather is cracking. All the plastic door edge guards are long gone, because the glue liquefies in average summer sun. If it can't stand a parking lot for 2-3 hours in a northeastern suburban summer, where COULD it hold over the course of an average year? Iceland??? :mad:

    I'd planned on keeping this car eight years or so when I bought it. No more. It's getting traded for a new Honda Accord in three days. I think the fact that we're keeping a 13-yo Ford Explorer (which doesn't have a stellar reliability reputation itself) and trading in the 2001 Sebring because the Sebring is less reliable and far more expensive to keep on the road says volumes.
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