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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions
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Thanks
Thanks,
Greg
Regards:
OldCEM
Thank you
Any ideas?
My son's 95 Sebring is going through the same thing right now. Two days ago, he went to leave the house (after having just got home), and his car wouldn't start. After about 20 minutes, it started up just fine. Then, about 20 minutes later, it just died on him while driving. It started up later on. Yesterday, on his way home from school (about 20 minutes drive time), it died again, and started about 20 minutes later. I had it towed to our mechanic (I wasn't going to risk him going through 5pm traffic for a 40 minute drive). Our mechanic has it running right now, waiting for it to die. He hooked it up to the computer, and he says it's coming back with the 'crank sensor' at '5 starts ago', which is about the exact time this started. He said it's better than the distributor, which what we originally thought. He said the part is about $100, but I don't know about labor. He's still waiting for it to die, and see what the computer says then.
I'm new here, but have had a real problem with my 2001 Sebring Convertible, with 25,000 miles. As I approach 55-60 mph, I hear a fairly loud tapping under the hood. Sounds more to the left side. It seems to quiet some after 60. I only hear it if my foot is on the gas at that speed range. If I decelerate, the noise lessens considerably.
The dealer replaced the transmission 3 months ago, and claimed that the noise was gone. But now, in addition to hearing the same tapping I did before, I have a whine both accelerating and decelerating, even at low speeds. Replacing the trans didn't change anything for the better. I took it back, but they "couldn't hear anything", and gave me a real attitude. I figured I would drive the car for a while and see if maybe I was making too much of it. I've driven 3,000 miles since the trany change, but it is the same as it was. My warranty expired while my car was in the shop (there for over a week). I get really angry every time I get in my car now! The noise really gets to me. Anyone have any suggestions?
STRUT/SHOCK TOWER: BODY/SUSPENSION - CLUNK/POP SOUND FROM VEHICLE FRONT..
DATE: September 24, 2004
SUBJECT: Pop/Clunk Sound from front of vehicle.
OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves installing 2 rivets in each front shock tower/wheel well area.
MODELS: 2001-005 Sebring Convertible/Sebring Sedan/Stratus Sedan.
SYMPTOM CONDITION: Vehicle produces an intermittent front end popping or clunk type sound while driving over road inputs that causes the body to come under a twisting load. This sound may also be produced when in park and idle by turning the steering wheel quickly, 90 degrees to the left and back to the right.
DIAGNOSIS: If the vehicle operator describes the above symptoms, turn the steering wheel quickly 90 degrees to the left and back to the right while the transmission is in park and the engine is idle. If a popping or clunk sound is heard, perform the repair procedure.
REPAIR:
QUANTITY PART NO. DESCRIPTION
4 06033864 Rivet
1 82300508 Corrosion inhibitor
PARTS REQUIRED:
Pentastar Service Equipment Riveter
W-HK150F or W-AK175ACH or equivalent
LABOR OPERATION NO.: 23-85-85-90
DESCRIPTION: Install rivets to shock tower/wheel house/both sides.
AMOUNT TIME: 0.7 hrs.
I hope this will help all who have complained about this problem earlier -- My mechanic is wonderful (I feel so lucky) and since I am still under warranty no problem -. Hope this helps..
Is there a way to check to see if the Alternator is working and where is the belt...Anybody that could help, I would greatly appreciate.
Getting frustrated and really nervous after seeing all the problems that Sebrings have. Since the battery was removed-do I need to reprogram anything??If the check engine light isn't coming on, where does it give you a code to tell you whats wrong. I tried turning the ignition switch on/off a few times to see if that worked but that didn't work. Seen some info about a crank shaft sensor too..My Grand Jeep Cherokee is on the brink as well...frustrated still thanks for your help!Lorie
1 - at between 25 and 35 mph the noise starts as a very distinct whirring noise or whine coming from the left front wheel.
2 - as you increase in speed the noise becomes higher in pitch
3 - as you decelerate the noise reverses the course from 1 & 2 above and drops off below about 20 mph.
It's been doing this off and on for about 4 years, and wasn't very noticable this winter (in Wisconsin it is cold), but during the spring and summer it is much more noticable. It is definately coming from the left front, seeing as when you drive by a concrete barrier (like those in a construction area) and the noise becomes very noticable as it reflects back at you.
Doing some research on this topic - we've come up with a few possible causes - 1) brake wear indicator, 2) idler pulley/tensioner assembly or bearing, 3) wheel bearing, or 4) torque converter problem.
Any help would be appreciated - this is the spring time curse with this car - just when we want to sell it.
Thanks - Scott
Love the car until a week ago i was going down the road cruising @ 40-50 went to accelerate and nothing no engine sound or acceleration then the service engine light flickered when I got to a point to stop the codes coming out were 12 (from a previous incident, it doesn't seem to clear after three sucessfull runs)then 11 & 54 which are cam shaft and then the sensor, tool the advice of a family member I worship, and did not take it to the shop the service engine soon light went away and the codes went away aside from 12, then 5 days later the same occured except resulting in the car to die and there was some noise involved this time almost like running out of gas, backfiring honestly i don't know just lights flashing and noises going stoping and so on until leaving me stranded for fear that the timing belt broke. Had it towed home. Since took the cover off and the belt is tight and turns not as if something is seized up. no oil on the part of the belt have rotated too cause slippage.
by the way the car had power the trans changed good.
any ideas.
[I did read all 60+ pages of the forum and have not found this one so here goes]
The latest, failed emissions: replaced both O2 sensors and cat. Still not right so I replaced the distributor, rotor and cap. Now she won't go over 20mph. Put old distributor bacl in and same thing. Figure jumped timing belt...checked timing marks (all correct) and verified rotor at top dead center (cylinder 1). Now I changed the wires and checked all ground straps. While looking around I noticed that cylinders 1,3,5 have carbon on spark plugs, and 2,4,6 are wetted with gas. It seems that 2,4,6 are not firing. Is this possible? Any guesses? Before I sink the money into a PCM I really want to make sure that is it...after all '97 has a unique PCM that so far I can only find at a dealer. Any help or thoughts are greatly appreciated!
Intestingly, when they removed my CV axel they determined replacement unit was wrong size, so had to re-install my old unit. After doing so, noise now became a high pitched screech that also stopped after 15 minutes. Driving causes grease and oil to circulate and causes rotational metal to heat and expand. Friend guesses it must be differential problem since all other possibilities have been replaced. Any other suggestions?
wbsjets
Thanks
also my drivers side window needs a new regulator, anyone know how much that costs?
I recently had to replace the engine and the starter on my 2000 Sebring.
Is this yet another problem?
Thanks, and please tell me if I gave too little info.
My first post!
B
Thanks in advance
1. When i start the vechile i hear like a streching noise when i put the car in reverse "sounds like a creaking noise when u tighten a rope".
2. Drive the car for about 20 mins and when i stop at a stop light it starts to warm up going towards hot and the when i start goin again it resumes back to normal.
3. The "mysterious" "check engine light" comes on when i start the vechile and stays on. Went and had the codes checked and i had a misfire in cyclinder 1&2 in this case supposly means o2 sensors needs to be replaced. Both Catalytic Converters need to be replaced and the O2 sensors are located on each of the converters.
Is there anyone out there that has these problems please email me and let me know.
Excellent site!!!
matt
2. Drive the car for about 20 mins and when i stop at a stop light it starts to warm up going towards hot and the when i start goin again it resumes back to normal.
3. The "mysterious" "check engine light" comes on when i start the vechile and stays on. Went and had the codes checked and i had a misfire in cyclinder 1&2 in this case supposly means o2 sensors needs to be replaced. Both Catalytic Converters need to be replaced and the O2 sensors are located on each of the converters.
Let's see......I have a 97 Sebring LXi Coupe with 56k on it and it sounds like it does similar things to yours.
1. Mine makes the same noise, my little brother (mechanic) said its a solinoid for the tranny. Not sure if he's right, but it doesn't seem to affect the car at all.
2. Don't have that issue.....make check the fan? Just guessing.
3. I have the *check engine* light with a mind of its own as well. I spoke with the original owner of the car and she said its done that all its life, since it was new. She said they had put in numerous 02 sensors and it would still come on. Doesn't seem to bother that car so I ignore it. However, I do know my car needs new cats, so might have it done then.
Great cars, mine I bought from a junkyard after it had run off the road and hit a tree with the driver's side rear, did some body damage and suspension damage. Fixed the suspension and have been driving it ever since.
Just bought a 97 Sebring JXI convertible with 80k miles. It's in pretty good exterior and mechanical shape and runs well. This is the first Sebring I've owned.
I've got two issues that I was hoping someone might have some insight into:
1) The driver's side power seat won't move forward or back. I can hear the switch engage, but nothing happens. The other two power lumbar switches on the same seat work fine up and down. :confuse:
2) The fuel empty (dummy) light comes on and then goes off intermittently even with a near full tank. I've noticed that the fuel indicator goes down rapidly about 1/8th of a tank before returning to normal, which seems to trigger the dummy light to come on, then go off again. :confuse: This one concerns me as I had an old Bonneville that did something similar, and when it "thought" there was no gas left in the tank, the car would basically shut down.
Any ideas before I take this to a mechanic would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!
thxs
oh by the way if ya likes sebrings come and check out my page http://profile.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=user.viewprofile&friendid=646254- 51
Did you eventually find out what was wrong and is it running fine now????
what did you replace?!?!?! HELP HELP HELP!