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Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • geobluegeoblue Posts: 71
    edited March 2011
    Thank you for the reply, autokritiker.

    Our Kia Optima is 2006 (earlier model, probably similar to 2004-2005 Sonata) with 4 sp auto transmission.

    At first I wanted to buy Redline D4 and use it for drain/refill. On their website they say it is also compatible with SPIII. Not on the bottles though.

    But Kia/Hyundai say only SPIII should be used. What is it that makes this ATF so special? Can it be because it includes extra additives to protect the transmission or its viscosity is different?

    I do not want to take a risk by using D4, however if SPIII is just a repackaged general-use ATF I would rather use a better quality fluid.

    What is the size of the drain plug? What tools do I need for the service?

    I have another unrelated question about the car. Last few months it started being a little noisier than it was when we first got it. I use only synthetic oil like M1 5W-30 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 with good quality filters. But I can hear clattering or clacking rather from under the hood when the window is down. Similar to a diesel.I hope I am not exagerating it.

    Last fall the dealer had to replace the oxygen sensor because of check engine light. The light has not come on since then.

    I have not had the timing belt replaced yet. Other accessory belt was a little squeaky during winter if that is relevant.
  • In my Sonata I used SPIII until last year at the 60K mile mark. I did a drain and fill at 20K miles and at 40K miles. At 60K miles I switched over to Valvoline Maxlife which lists all the Hyundai specs including the newest SPIV spec. After 14K miles so far with the Maxlife I can say it is definitely an improvement over the SPIII. The transmission shifts smoother now, the slight 4th gear whine I had before is now 99% gone, and the fluid still looks brand new. Also Maxlife is fully synthetic while SPIII is only semi synthetic.

    A 1" socket fits the drain bolt on my 2007 Sonata (5 speed AT). A 25mm might even fit a little better, although the 1" works fine without deforming the bolt head. Not sure if the older 4 speed AT has the same size drain bolt but I assume they would be the same size. I think a drain and fill on yours would be about 4 or 4.5 quarts.

    About the noise, it can be caused by colder weather or by using a non OEM oil filter. Stick with the OEM filter. They are good quality. Also synthetic oils are usually thinner than conventional oils of the same weight, which can make an engine run noisier. Maybe try a High Mileage oil which are usually a little thicker. That might make it run a little quieter. I really wouldn't worry about the noise unless it becomes loud. Check your oil level every couple weeks to make sure the oil level stays near the full mark.
  • geobluegeoblue Posts: 71
    By 'replace the crush washer' do you mean buying a new crush washer, autokritiker? Or just putting the same one back on? If you meant getting a new one, what is the size of it and where can I get it from?

    Thanks.
  • You need to remove the old crush washer and install a new one on the drain bolt. If you try to re-use the old one, it might not seal properly. I can't remember the specs. Just go to the parts counter at your local Hyundai dealer and tell them you need a crush washer for the transmission drain bolt. They should have plenty in stock. That's where I got mine. I think they were 50 or 60 cents each.
  • wpbjoewpbjoe Posts: 1
    now either you have a really honest Jiffy Lube in Wisconsin, or you have a really high priced oil change at the dealer, either that or I'll bet you have never been to Jiffy Lube....
  • tram54tram54 Posts: 1
    I have a 2006 Sonata with 62,000 miles on it. Recently I had been hearing a noticible light 'thumping' noise when making a slight left turn only. The noise would stop if you applied the brake. A friend suggested I might have a loose brake caliber (I did take it to the dealer for new brakes about 6 months ago). Well, today the dealer tells me that the front bushings were wearing (hence the noise). Would be > $600 with labor to replace both sides. I winced at the price, so as an alternative he offered to 'lube them' to see if the noise would go away and I could get away with waiting a while. I asked if there was any safety concern, but he said no. So I opted for the greasing (spent < 100), the noise is indeed gone. As I was leaving, the service rep's comment was 'who knows - this may solve your problem for good because you do not drive a lot'. Was my leg getting pulled today?
  • yul711yul711 Posts: 8
    Similar story with my 2006 Sonata: a local mechanic suggested all front bushings or lower control arms replacement on both sides due to the thumping noise. At other mechanic's advice, I have lubricated the bushings myself with WD-40 after placing the car over a sidewalk curb. So far, two months later no thumping.
  • vjyvjy Posts: 27
    I have 2007 sonata GLS with 48000 miles on it. I took it for oil change and the dealer said that my rear brakes are bad and they are (1-2)/32. He quoted 260.00 for that and told me to do brake flush for another 130.00.

    Do the prices look good? Also I need to do the 45,000 mile service and it would cost around 400.00. Is the price fine?

    Thanks.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,746
    45k service seems high, especially since the oil service is already done... there isn't that much to do at the 15k intervals. Make sure the dealer isn't adding unnecessary services--check the maintenance schedule that came with the car. You could save some money by doing the easy stuff yourself, e.g. air filter and cabin filter replacements. These can be purchased at auto parts stores and replaced in a few minutes--directions are in the owner's manual.
  • tmorrow411tmorrow411 Posts: 11
    edited July 2011
    I just had my brakes done at 81k miles on my 2007 Sonata. They were the originals.

    They had a special at $200 per axle, and they just sent me a coupon for $169 per axle (after I had already done it :sick: ). So to me $260 sounds high. $130 for flush sounds about right, but I wouldn't do it until you need to change the front pads too. Or you are feeling a lot of give in your brake pedal.

    P.S. I'm surprised your fronts aren't worn out as well.
  • vjyvjy Posts: 27
    Thanks backy & tmorrow411. I will try to check if I can reduce the price.
  • franmartfranmart Posts: 16
    how do you replace the light bub on the high mount brake lite in the 2009 sonata
  • what's five hours of waiting against having a constant problem???Glad they fixed it for you and now it should be good-good luck
  • When I hit a dip in the road, my 2007 Sonata makes a crunching or scraping sound as it comes down from the dip. I can't tell if it's coming from the front of the car or the rear. Anyone know what this could be? Like I have any money to fix it. :(
  • pekelopdpekelopd Posts: 139
    take a peek under the car from the front. sounds like it might be the plastic splash shroud may have came loose. A few bolts and washers should fix it if it is the case.
  • I hve a Sonata 01. The break lights work,now the break/tail light use the same bulb. The break lights works just fine.
    The left tail light was not working. A friend tried to run/split the working wires from the right side to the left. the left tail begun to work but only did for like 5mins.(both tail light workin)
    Now both tail lights won't come on. We checked the fuses by making sure all power off, then attaching the electrical tester to battery-then pulling out every fuse to see of the light on the tester goes off.
    The power fuse cause the light on tester to go off indicating, a possible blown fuse.
    First of all, how bad is it an idea to extend wires from the working side(right) to the left side(nonworking)?
    Then what was done wrong to make both tail lights to completely go off?
    Thank you very very much....
  • pekelopdpekelopd Posts: 139
    first, I would definitely undo the jumper that your friend put in and fix the wiring to be as it was prior. Assuming that you have had no previous electrical problems with the car and no major repairs, the wiring should have been fine. Most likely scenario is that the double filament bulb had a bad filament for the taillight. Try replacing both bulbs (only a few dollars) and checking the contacts in the socket are making proper contact (clean any corrosion if any and make sure the spring/tabs contact the bulb) . Take out one of the bulbs and match it up for a replacement pair.
  • vjyvjy Posts: 27
    I have 2007 GLS with sports package and it has around 52,000 miles on it. It is the tire change time and I am looking at 2 options for P215/55R17 93V
    1. BFGoodrich - Advantage T/A®
    2. Michelin - Energy&#153; MXV4® S8 - I have this with the car now, came with the new car.

    How are BFGoodrich tires, I saw some bad reviews saying they wear down quickly and have more noise and so on, is it worth it to go for it. I can save around 250-300 dollars on 4 tires. Please let me know. Thanks.
  • So I just purchased a 2003 Hyundai Sonata GLS and everything has been working as it should. The car is about to have 160,000 miles but is still running great. Today I noticed that my hi-beam was still on when I got out of my car. I toggled it a few times and if finally submitted and turned off (oh I also only have one hi-beam working). Also the headlights do not even seem bright while on normal and driving. So I have been outside working on it and I noticed that my AC unit lights stay on with my bright lights. But when I turn my AC knob past 0 and keep it on 1,2,3, or 4 then I cant turn off my bright lights (key is still out of ignition) I also can turn on my high beams while car is off by turning my AC knob clockwise to the numbers 1,2,3, or 4. It seems to be a short but I have no clue if this is something that happens when one bright light is burnt out or if a relay has gone bad. Any thoughts on this please help me? Thanks for reading.
  • ron4563ron4563 Posts: 3
    edited December 2011
    Over the years I have used Haynes repair manuals for cars that I have owned. I see that they do not have a repair manual for the 2011 Hyundai Sonata. I know there is a website hmaservice.com that has limited access to Hyundai shop manuals. but these do not have good detailed overview diagrams (for example, cannot find overview diagram of the engine compartment to locate oil filter) and technical repair descriptions similar to what I had before with the Haynes manuals. In addition, detailed search and organization on www.hmaservice.com website is lacking. For example, if you enter "replace oil filter", it does not give you a diagram where the oil filter is located so that you have the big picture. Can anyone tell me where to purchase a printed version similar to Haynes or Chilton for 2011 Hyundai Sonata for approximately $25. Would really appreciate it.
    Thanks,
    Ron
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,897
    I know that this doesn't exactly answer your question with what you're seeking, but http://www.alldatadiy.com has some pretty good info. It doesn't look like they've got the 2011 Sonata info yet, but they do have 2010, so I suspect they'll get it eventually. And, it's not printed.

    Just thought I'd give you that site in case the printed option doesn't ever materialize.

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  • Kirstie,

    Thanks for the info. I will keep that in mind.

    Ron
  • Ron,

    The oil filter is located in the front of the engine on the 2.4L. There is an access hole in the plastic splash shield that you can see the oil filter. My advice is to take the extra time and remove the plastic shield because the top side of the shield has foam on it and will absorb any spilled oil, and you will be getting drips thinking you have a leak.
  • hjc1hjc1 Posts: 183
    You can read or download the complete service manual FREE
    Hyundai offers this free.... Log on to www.hmaservice.com
    Fill out the info and that will allow you to look at all of Hyundia manuals FREE
  • Thank you for your reply. I actually do have a logon to www.hmaservice.com and have looked at the shop manuals, but they do not seem to be as detailed as I need. For example, I cannot find overview diagrams and the search feature seems to be lacking, in that, it cannot find matches to simple requests like "how to change oil filter". Perhaps the level of detail is there, but it seems very hard to find it. I need something that is user friendly and provides general overview as well as specific detailed technical information and is organized.

    Ron
  • prendyprendy Posts: 18
    HAD A SMALL ACCIDENT IN MY 2012 SONATA,2.4 WITH BLUE LINK,WHEN I WENT TO PICK IT UP AIR BAG LIGHT STAYED LITE, WASN'T LITE WHEN WE DROVE IT TO DEALER TO REPAIR ACCCIDENT DAMAGE,(REPAIR SHOP WAS A CHEVY DEALERSHIP) WHEN I WENT TO PICK IT UP ,THE LIGHT STAYED ON,IMMEDIATELY BROUGHT IT BACK TO WHERE I HAD IT REPAIRED (MINOR FRONTEND DAMAGE). THEY COULDN'T RESET AIR BAG LIGHT TO OFF,SO THEY BROUGHT IT UP TO HYUNDAI DEALER SERVICE SHOP,THEY SAID AIR BAG MODULE SHOWED BAD,NOW TODAY THEY FINALLY GOT MODULE,AND REPALCED IT, AIR BAG LGHT STILL HASN'T RESET ,COMPUTOR SHOWED IT STILL WASN'T COMMUNICATING WITH THE BLUELINK MODULE,ANY ONE ELSE HAVE PROBLEM YET WITH THEIR NEW SONATA,WITH BLUE LINK???
    FRED PRENDERGAST
  • I have a 2006 Sonata. I still have the original battery, and it's probably time to replace the battery. What size of wrench fits the bolts on the battery? Standard-sized or metric? Thanks.
  • It's all metric.
  • msmbmsmb Posts: 41
    edited December 2011
    My daughter has my 2007 Sonata GLS Standard Trans. The car has 45000 miles on it. She had it to dealer for an oild change about a week ago but hasn;'t driven it much and now the check engine light is on. she is about 100 miles from home. Can she drive it? Nothing else seems to be wrong with the car.
  • rysterryster Posts: 517
    The general rule is that if the chek engine light is on and steady (not flashing) it is a minor problem and the car can be driven.

    If the check engine light starts flashing, the problem is more serious and the car should be serviced immediately.
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