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Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair



  • cabbycabby Posts: 8
    This does not specifically pertain to sonatas, but my new 07 platinum front tires always looks a little flat to the naked eye. Rear ones do not. Cold pressures are ~31-33 in the front, and ~33-35 in the rears. Recommended is 30 on all four tires. Is this a concern?? Any opinion is appreciated for this sophomoric car owner.
  • macakavamacakava Posts: 775
    Sheer physical weight distribution is the problem! Being a FWD, more weight is on the front tires, about 60% to the front vs about 40% to the rear.

    The lower pressure in your front tires will also add to the more flatness in those tires. I keep the tire pressure at about 33lbs at all 4 tires in my 2007 Limited. Recommended is 30 - a bit higher would give slightly more mpg due to reduced rolling resistance at the expense of a slightly harsher ride.

    I do not see the logic of having different tire pressures at frnot vs rear. With lower pressure, the front tires should have more traction(and more wear due to increased rolling resistance)than the rear - if big enough, this difference can result in an unsafe driving situation.
  • vegas60vegas60 Posts: 6
    I have a sonata 2005 and this morning as i left for work went around the corner and car lost power as i tried to accelerate.then it caught and I drove to work just fine..what is up with it ? It has less then 19,000 miles on it...Thanks for any insight
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Posts: 420
    You will notice a much smoother ride with the tires at 30 psi all the way around. You only need 35 psi if you plan on driving 120 MPH+
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Posts: 420
    Does it do this all the time? Cold Sonata engines tend to hold themselves back until the oil pressure pumps up or something. I notice this on my car, 20,000 mile 06.
  • cabbycabby Posts: 8
    Thanks for the tips you guys. How about gas mileage? Better mpg with 35 vs 30?
  • ngeorge1ngeorge1 Posts: 4
    I have a manual shift 2006 Hyundai Sonata with 5400 miles on it - and the clutch is gone! The dealer is telling me that the clutch isn't covered in the warranty.

    First, does this make sense that I could have destroyed the lining of the clutch (not the clutch plate) in 5000+ miles?
    Secondly, shouldn't the clutch lining be covered by the drive train warranty?

    I am SOOOOO disappointed in this car! :sick:
  • geffengeffen Posts: 278
    I've been test driving and i'm considering the 07 Sonata GLS has there been many issues or glitches on the 07 models?
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    OK I concede that labor rates...complexity of the vehicle being worked on...competence of the this a high school student taking an auto repair course "moonlighting/practicing" on your car or a certified tech? There are quite a few variables but "for the record" I JUST had the timing belt, water pump, tensioners,belt tensioner, cam and crank shaft seals replaced on my 1995 Dodge Stratus ES with 2.5 liter V-6. I purchased the parts and my regular Dodge dealer did the work and the job was a bit over $600.00 including the $135.00 or so I spent for the belt tensioner only available as a Dodge part but NOT including the other parts I brought in. I would guess the V-6 crammed into the Stratus was quite a bit harder to work on than a Geo Metro (time is indeed money). So the simpler the car the less involved and the cheaper the price. Not only does it pay to shop around (which I do when buying shoes) but it may also pay to drive a simple,uncomplicated,small engined car. Additionally, I do not pick the person doing my car repairs by shopping around for the cheapest price like I'm buying ah, shoes but instead tend to deal with one or two dealers/mechanics I have built a trust with over years or even decades. In summary: timing belts like everything else are priced according to vehicle complexity and I doubt a shop can post a "one size fits all" price for this.
  • targettuningtargettuning Posts: 1,371
    1. No,the clutch disc (with friction material) being a "wear-out" item like brake pads and wiper blades are not typically covered under the warranty. That said the clutch absolutely should NOT have failed at 5400 miles. So, it may be that some other part of the clutch/manual transmission system failed. If the clutch DID fail I would say you should be able to point out to your dealer that given the mileage there is no way you should have had this problem and perhaps they should consider replacing it for good will if nothing else. I am assuming you do not do smokey burn-outs at every stop sign and traffic light. Whatever else this is an abnormal occurrance and it should be taken as a defect by the dealer who should replace the clutch and while removing/replacing it find the reason it happened and eliminate it. You will be happy and Hyundai may find out the reason for an early clutch failure Win win.
  • vabearvabear Posts: 18
    The thing to remember is that you are running a low profile (55 aspect ratio)radial tire an d the side walls are only about 4"tall so the tires may always look low on air. Another thing, since the tire sidewall acts as a shock absorber, you may experience a firmer ride on these tires.
  • vegas60vegas60 Posts: 6
    Thanks to those who gave some feed back.....My husband made some call's and the conc-senus was we might have gotton some water in the gas we had put in so were advised to use Lucas fuel he bought a bottle and put it far so good ..nice to have a forum of just Hyundai people...Take care!
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hope that takes care of it. But either way, don't be a stranger! :)
  • vegas60vegas60 Posts: 6
    Thanks so do I! We even had the codes checked and all was clear..they can't fix it unless it throws a code..well duh..I don't do well with :sick: cars.. :shades: ..I won't be a stranger..hubby is always wanting to know about the car and he has tricked it out some..actually we are old Mopar people ..
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    see if you can re-create / duplicate it perhaps in an open / disserted parking lot.

    doubtful it's a fuel delivery problem.

    would be interesting if it were some form of vehicle stability control engaging.
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Posts: 420
    Do you have pics in your carspace? Post some for all to see. Let's see what hubby has done.
  • dbgeorge1dbgeorge1 Posts: 1
    I have the same exact car.2000 GLS v-6 and less than two years ago I had my transmission replaced because it was stalling and downshifting each time I tried to accelerate the car..

    It was under warranty then...and now 20,000 miles later it is doing the same exact thing.
    when ammco worked on it before, they were convinced it was not a transmission problem.. soo if its just the engine sensor giving feedback, who can detect this and where should i go to figure out if thats the problem??

    this doesnt occur everytime i drive the car... sometimes it is smooth,running normal,and sometimes it is hesitant and downshifting..

    I dont understand why this is occuring????
  • My car is 2006 Sonata GLS v6.
    Last Tuesday, I took my car into the Hyundai service due to clucking noise from the engine when I start the engine. :sick:

    They said that my car needed to replace the timing chain tensioner. And I got my car back today. I believe the clucking noise is gone. But I can hear more annoying noise, grinding metal sound. I can't hear it when I go fast. But when I go slow, I can definitelyhear the grinding metal sound from the engine. I'm not sure it is because I just replace the tensioner and it will be gone in few days, or it is something wrong. Any comment will be appreciated. :mad:
  • autocallautocall Posts: 2
    the clutch is a wear item. The life of it varies with the cars driving habits. I have seen hyundai clutches last 120,000 plus miles and I've seen clutches only last 3,000 miles. Like brake pads. Check your front tires, there condition might give a mechanic an idea of how the car has been treated.
  • autocallautocall Posts: 2
    can you change the pitch of the noise by turning the a/c on and off? if so you may have an a/c clutch problem, or tensionor/dampner problem?
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