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That's sounds like a typical dealers explanation.
The dealer said that they would have to replace the entire system. It is on back-order -- which makes me think that many other owners of the 2006 Sonata are having the same problem.
Recently spent 10 to 15 minutes with a technician after my 6K check-up.
The steps you've outlined are exactly as stated by the technician.
Don't forget that the Automatic Climate Control does more than simply heat or cool cabin air. It also controls cabin humidity by occasionally cycling the A/C on and off. The technician went on to say that the compressor will cycle on and off while the heat is running during cold weather.
The key is making sure the A/C is OFF by using the A/C button. Also, set the temperature to LO.
The technician went on to talk about the compressor itself. It's quick a remarkable piece of intelligent machinery! Unlike most compressors, this particular unit doesn't simply cycle on and off. Rather, it cycles its output from near zero to full compression based on the pitch of the internal cylinder face. So, just because you hear it engage, it doesn't necessarily mean it going full tilt.
I hope this helps those of you that wish to have fresh air enter the cabin without having the A/C running.
My husband also feels it might be a suspension problem. We have had the car back to our dealer and have been told that they can't take the car back due to this problem but they are aware (they insisted that not too many people have complained) of a problem and they will come up with a fix but not too soon.
What do you mean by suspension problem? Mine have a bumping/wobbly problem at around 60-75 km/h (35-45 mph) that is not tyrerelated (have been checked/replaced/dynamic balanced etc.) It feels like the tyre is not balanced. Is that what your husband means? (I also get the statement, that they have not had much complain about it, and recently a Hyundai Technicin here in Denmark said it is common, and that all 3.3 sonata have it, and i will have to live with it)
Thanks.
hdsit, "Hyundai Sonata 2006+" #5273, 14 May 2006 1:14 am
Mine does the same - slushing when the tank is full and gets quieter when empties. For me it is a minor problem, compared to my other problems which now after around 10 months not has been solved yet.
There seems to be a solution on the way for the gastank.
Thanks anyway
I recently moved to a new home and cannot get the codes to work properly between the opener and my car.
Before I had a craftsman (Sears) model but now I have a Liftmaster. I thought the coding would be similar. I have tried many things and still cannot get the car to "find" the door opener.
Thanks, Brad
It just will not take the code from the garage door opener. I know it works because it worked on our last door opener.
Thanks, Brad
Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
The service tech said that the CD player will be a refurbished cd player.. to me that means used... oin my new car that I pay about 400 bucks a mont for... Does this odd to any one????
"Repairs will be made using new Hyundai Genuine Parts or Hyundai authorized remanufactured parts."
I'll bet your warranty supplement booklet has similar or identical wording, too.
Pat
If the car vibrates as much as you say, I can't imagine the dealer or the Hyundai rep denying it. Engine vibration is usually very easy to diagnose and fix.
You should ask the service manager to feel your steering wheel and feel the steering wheel on a new car on the lot. Ask him which one is correct, and tell him that they both can not be correct.
Just curious: Do you have the 4cyl or 6cyl? I have the 6, and it's so smooth I honestly can't tell if the engine is running.
Did they check for an intake manifold leak, or are they totally denying the severe vibration in the steering wheel?
Sorry about being long winded with this........
I have a 1997 4cyl sonata, I have owned it since it was about a year old. It currently has 170,000Km. The tranny was replaced under warranty at about 90,000km. The replacement tranny worked excellent untill a little over a year ago.
What was happening is that when you first started the car and put it directly in reverse it was taking a second to engage and then it would jump (bang) into reverse then reverse was fine, if you shifted after this first jump(bang) it would go into reverse again smoothly. If you went into drive first and then into reverse or it was running for a while it would shift into reverse smoothly.
I also noticed about 3 or 4 times last summer when moving slowly on a parking lot that the car seemed to lock up, like the tranny was almost in park for a fraction of a second and then would bang and continue on its way fine. This only happened 3 or 4 times.
Since the fluid was getting old and it was seeming to 'drag' a little when driving. I decided to change the tranny filter and fluid two weeks ago, I used Hyundai fluid. The tranny is shifting smoother, the reverse jumping was better, BUT.......
Now I am noticing that the tranny is jumping into reverse again and sometimes it seems to be slipping, it loses drive and the rpms race up. It was doing it again today a few times. Also today after doing it a few times, I think it went into limp mode....it wouldnt change gears and was very slow to pick up speed. I turned off the car for a few minutes and it worked again, but slipped a few more times.
The old fluid was dark, but not black. It did not smell burned. I checked the fluid today and its red. I am going to drain the basepan and refill it two more times to get most of the old fluid out.
The question is what do you think could be wrong with it, will a sensor cause this or will i be looking at getting the tranny rebuilt?
what do you think? Thanks
When you changed the tranny fluid & filter were you near the service interval or far beyond it?
Yesterday, was loading my next audio book in the cd player and it stopped.
Says error.
Can't finish the last couple of minutes on the old cd and can't start the new one.
Now the cd player is my favorite part of the car.
Am totally bummed.
This is a difficult fix?
Are they going to screw up the dash working on it?
I need to take it in anyway to go over the list I have been accumulating since getting the car...tint bubbles, sunroof loud noise when opening, wheel alignment, etc., have been busy so thought would have this stuff looked at during my first oil change.
But now, this is an emergency.
Must be able to listen to my books!
Suzanna
The bad news: Hyundai's "Clarion"-made 6-disc CD changer mechanism has less than a sterling reputation mechanically.
The worse news: Hyundai persists in continuing to use that basic mechanism despite its questionable reliability.
Thanks!
Yes. Use the tuning knob to read the entire display. Use the text button to filter through textual information about each mp3.
Using the tuning knob allows you to view approximately 20 characters worth of data.
Hope this helps!
Thanks.
Take a very close look at the vertical heating element connectors on either side of the horizontal connectors. There may be a break in the conductor material between the top 3 and the 4th one. My wife has the car right now, but IIRC you can see the vertical connectors. You are looking for tiny cracks in the material.
1> take the car back to the dealership for warranty repair
2> purchase a $5.00 (more or less) repair kit at most any autoparts store. These kits have a small vial of electrically conductive copper paint that can be brushed over the break to restore continuity. Once dry, a tissue lightly dampened with paint thinner will clean up any over-application on the glass. This is essentially what the dealer will use for warranty repair.
I used one of these kits on the back glass of an '86 Peugeot. Never had any further back glass defroster trouble through 1994 when I traded the car.
I will also check in the manual for the radio antenna location.
Thanks
-Spank
Ideas? This is my brand new baby car!
Thanks, desertguy, I checked the gas cap and that didn't change anything.
I've got an appt Mon morning... will post results.
has anyone had success connecting to a car like this and if so what brand of reader.
thanks
Took a look at the service brochure I picked-up from the service department a few weeks ago.
Every scheduled service has three levels.
Don't we get the road side assistance and engine protection with the basic warranty?
What's an oil conditioner?
Brake fluid flush and alignment inspection is $100 extra.
Is this with all dealerships or just mine?
Should I checkout the other dealer?
Suzanna