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Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • ngeorge1ngeorge1 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks autocall. I am the only driver of the car - except my son, who drives it occasionally. The dealership mechanic said that the car had suffered "aggressive driving", and my mechanic said that perhaps I had been riding the clutch. Unless the definition of "riding the clutch" has changed over the years, neither my son or I do that, and given that the car is driven primarily in the city (to and from work, which is less than five miles away), my ability to perform "aggressive driving seems unlikely...

    In any case, the dealership still has the car - they still cannot get the car to go into gear, even after all of the repair...

    Is there any chance that the setup of the car was done incorrectly? It cannot be that they changed the clutch without my knowing, because the car is probably the only manual transmission 2006 Hyundai Sonata in the country (I live in Jamaica). :shades:
  • oinktrntoinktrnt Member Posts: 22
    I suppose it’s a matter of personal preference. I like the ride quality of 30 PSI, as mentioned on the driver’s door sticker. When I bought my car last year and checked the tires, they were 34. Let some air out to 30 and improved the ride. Got an oil change at another dealer and found the tires had been reinflated to 34. Lowered again and as I was going on a long road trip from Calif to Ariz checked all the tires (spare was at 35, is supposed to be 60). Took it in for 7500 mile service on the return span of the trip @ Metro in Las Vegas, noticed the rough ride. Checked with gauge, found them to be @ 37PSI! The printout said ‘tires inflated to factory specifications’. Do you think I have to tell them to leave my tires alone? I find this rather annoying…
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Member Posts: 420
    I always tell the tire guys/shop people to inflate to 30 psi. I now I shouldn't have to but I do it to save me hassles later.
  • presonatabuyerpresonatabuyer Member Posts: 5
    can you change the pitch of the noise by turning the a/c on and off? if so you may have an a/c clutch problem, or tensionor/dampner problem?

    No. I can't. It wasn't related to that A/C.

    I brought my car in last Saturday. and I got it back today. The mechanic said that it had bubble on power steering system. After bleeding the power steering system, the car is OK. I was not happy about 6 times visit to hyundai service. But now I'm happy with my car again. I hope my next visit to hyundai dealer is for another hyundai purchase.
  • bill304bill304 Member Posts: 18
    -I have a 2002 Hyundai Sonata V6, I'm ready for the timing belt change, there are many other things listed by the dealer as needing to be addressed as well. Is absolutely everything necessary as listed in the manual ? I'm not a big mecahnic guy, I know where the gas goes, how to change the air filter but thats about it.I want to keep my car for awhile so should I go ahead bite the bullet and give the ok ? My dealer estimates the work incl labor $400-450.

    appreciate the info as always
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Member Posts: 420
    What are they suggesting? Timing belt and?......for $450.00. May be a good deal. Shop rates are high so exactly what are you getting for $450.00?
  • rothbmrothbm Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Sonata GLS and not sure whats going on with my door locks. IF you are in drive and sitting still, the only way to lock the door is by holding the electric lock for about 5 seocnds. It will stay locked until you take off and then slow down below 5 MPH then it unlocks again. Is this the auto lock function you are talking about or is there something electrical wrong with it. Any ideas?
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    I wasn't aware that Hyundai had auto locks back in 2003 but in general...except for that having to hold the "lock" switch for 5 seconds part...this is typical auto lock operation except for that one thing. Auto lock will usually lock after a certain speed threshold is met (from 5-10 mph) then some will unlock as the cars travels down through that speed on a stop. There should be a section in your owners manual detailing its operation (if you have it and NOT some electrical glitch).
  • whisper1whisper1 Member Posts: 50
    No one has these issues :confuse:
  • jlindhjlindh Member Posts: 282
    Look up anti lock brake test in your manual.
  • tntbakertntbaker Member Posts: 22
    don't let up! I had the same problem and after 4months they cut me a check for the repairs and I know of 1 more person who was able to get hyundai to settle. contact tntnknb@juno.com with any questions.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Better yet, folks can post their questions here for the benefit of everyone. :)
  • ctc1ctc1 Member Posts: 66
    I have a 06 sonata GLS I4. I've noticed a valve train tapping after car is fully warmed up. This isn't the fuel injecters and I use a high quality 5w-20 oil. The tapping isn't noticeably at any other time than when I'm at a idle. Otherwise the engine is smooth and strong.
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Member Posts: 420
    Sorry Whisper,
    This is probably and most likely the ABS "self" test when/after you first start the car and drive away. Mine is not so noticeable. I had to put my foot on the brake pedal to feel it. It was there so I am glad it's working.
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Member Posts: 420
    ctc,
    Welcome to the world of larger 4 cylinder engines. Mine makes noise, you should hear it when it's 20 below zero. The local Hyundai dealer said ALL the 4's make some noise. I drove a couple of 4's on our lot and they made the same noise. Go figure. 5/60 warranty on mine that's all I care about.
  • aneane Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Sonata GLS that has this exact same problem!!!! I have the shifting flare, and the dealership wants me to believe it is "normal", but I know better b/c it was not acting like that for the first 4 mos/3000 miles I had it. They reset the computer, and it did not improve at all. They have NO CLUE what to check next, b/c none of the lights are coming on and the computer says everything is fine.

    So I've had to deal w/ the consumer relations of Hyundai, and a rep is supposed to be meeting me at the nearest dealership to look at it with me. There are many many forum posts out there w/ the same problem!
  • whisper1whisper1 Member Posts: 50
    I am not happy with the dealer oil change. They listed $29.95 (oil, filter, gasket, environmental fee). The receipt shows $5 labor, $0.95 document fee, WTH. With tax, totaled to $40.

    1) From the FRAM website, the oil filter (FRAM # CH9999) is like an air filter, is this correct?
    2) I assume it goes inside that alloy/aluminum cylindrical housing with a huge hex plastic cap, on the top right side of the engine? I saw slippage mark on the cap.
    3) For the DIY, where to get the tool to remove the hex cap? Anything to be careful that is different that the conventional metal can filter?
    4) Do independent shops stock the V6 oil filter?

    Oh, they dumped 6L (quantity on the receipt) into the engine (I think only 5.2L from the spec), the dip stick shown about 1/4" over the full, anything to be concern?
  • vabearvabear Member Posts: 18
    First, a cheap rubber strap wrench will unscrew the lid to the oil filter cannister. Once open you will see the filter (drop in) and a plastic post that may be attached to the cannister lid. The cannister lid has a rubber gasket in a groove on the under side (pull old one out and insert new one), the post has a small rubber gasket on the bottom of the post(remove old one and put in a new one). I use a Purolator filter kit (available at any parts store for $8.00 to $9.00 US) and it comes with a new filter, and both gaskets. All oil change facilities SHOULD have the filter kits.
  • macakavamacakava Member Posts: 775
    While in Portland, OR recently I saw the Fram filter kits Model CH9999 for the 2006+ V6 Sonata for $7.52 at Walmart. These are made in Korea, probably from the same source as the Hyundai brand filters.

    Since there was no OR sales tax and I was already there, I grabbed a few for my future oil changes in my house garage. I believe that Walmart sells the same filter kit for same price in their stores nationwide.

    What I plan to do is to cut out a neat circular piece out of the plastic engine cover edge to access the oil filter. This would eliminate the need to unbolt the cover each time for an oil change. A dremel tool with the right bits would be needed.
  • macakavamacakava Member Posts: 775
    This week, Pep Boys have Purolator filter kits for 1 cent after rebate.

    I got 4(max limit) of the L35610 filters. The cashier charged me a special sale price of $2.39 for a rebate of $2.38 each for the 1 cent cost after rebate. Even if I were lazy(which I am not) to not send in the rebate form, the $2.39 cost is much cheaper than the more than $8.00 regular price. These made in India Purolators look identical to the made in Korea Fram CH9999 filters I purchased earlier. So I now have enough to last me 2 yrs of oil changes!
  • ngeorge1ngeorge1 Member Posts: 4
    My clutch problems continue with my Hyundai Sonata 2006 (see July 18 post). However, I have finally come to my senses (I haven't had the car for three weeks now - the dealership service department has the car's clutch in pieces) and realise that the dealer has no idea what to do with the problem in the clutch (not the clutch plate, whihc is pristine)... the Service Manager tried to retool the part - still the clutch would not engage. Then he tried to get a comparable Mitsubishi part (of course it didn't fit). At long last, I think the dealer has ordered the part from the Hyundai plant in Birmingham.

    However, I now realise that this problem - or signs of this problem were evident in the car from the beignning: when I first collected the car (December 2005), I noticed a worrying (althugh faint)rattle when I downshifted between third and second and between second and first gears. Initially it was a faint mechanical rattle which, apparently only I could hear, bcause my repeated and continued complaints about it resulted in blank stares and the Service Manager's report that they could not make the engine produce the noise with the car on the hoist... of course if the noise was in the drive train, they would not be able to hear it when the car was not in motion. They diagnosed the rattle as a vibration in the exhaust system and promised to replace the part (which they have never done).

    Could someone give me the name and contact infomration for a person at Hyundai who might be able to help me with this problem? The car was originally purchased n Korea and shipped to a dealership in Jamaica, where I bought it... but when I look for a contact with Korea on the various Hyundai websites, I cannot find one.

    I would be grateful for any help anyone can give me.

    Thanks
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Member Posts: 420
    Sorry you have not had any responses to this question. :sick:
    Have you looked in the owners manual for a phone number to call for disputes? I would think it would be in there somewhere. ;)
  • bobadbobad Member Posts: 1,587
    What I plan to do is to cut out a neat circular piece out of the plastic engine cover edge to access the oil filter. This would eliminate the need to unbolt the cover each time for an oil change. A dremel tool with the right bits would be needed.

    Good idea, Maybe you could cut it out neatly, and add a little hinge and latch. Now you have a nice little door instead of a hole. :D
  • rimartinez1rimartinez1 Member Posts: 4
    Perhaps someone with auto industry experience can clarify for me, I've never understood why dealers hesitate so much to try to provide warranty work for cars. (My theory is they must be paid a reduced labor rate, AND its probably an unspoken taboo to have too much warranty work handled by your dealer (i.e., cops don't have a quota line))

    The reason I bring this up is that my mother's Sonata cleary has some knocking when the engine is cold/during start up. This seems like its the TSB that was posted regarding the chain tensioner but my dealers always claim they can't notice a thing. Its frustrating to drive there, spend thetime and not be able to get anything solved.
  • craigbrookscraigbrooks Member Posts: 420
    Maybe they can't hear it because the engines has warmed up. If you can, leave it there overnight and come back WITH the keys the next morning and start it up. Make sure the service advisor is there to hear it.

    I would think they would like warranty work. If a certain tech does enough of the same work he/she can become proficient at it and do it in less time than the factory says it will take. By doing this the shop makes a little $$ along with the tech. I just confirmed this with a buddy who is a service advisor for a Chevy store.

    What size engine is in your mothers car?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    What the service writers at my local Hyundai dealership have told me about warranty work is that they have to clearly document that the problem is in fact warranty related, or they don't get reimbursed by Hyundai. This question came up when I had some problems with the radio on my Elantra, and the dealer was not able to determine for sure that the problem was in the radio. They told me if they removed the radio and sent it in for replacement, and it was determined there was not a problem with the radio, it would cost some un-godly amount for the replacement.

    I have often had the bad luck of having a problem not occur when I bring a car into the dealership, even though it happened all the time for me. Must be some corollary of Murphy's Law. :cry:
  • sclark1sclark1 Member Posts: 9
    Good morning fellow Hyundai owners. I just wanted to post an update to my Sonata saga.

    I did contact the owner of my Hyundai dealership. He was out of town but he did reply to my e-mail on a Saturday, saying he would look into it, and call me on Monday. He did. He also put me in a new, loaded 2007 Santa Fe, complete with moon roof, XM radio, etc. (the loaner they had given me on my 2nd break down was an 07 Sonata and only 1/2 of the wipers moved when you turned them on). Anyway, they had my car for two weeks this time, but I had one of their loaners and they called with updates along the way, so it was no problem. I wanted them to keep it as long as it took to get it right.

    According to their service manager, there was some damage to the cylinder head. They had sent it off to the machine shop and it ended up having a full valve job. They also replaced the radiator and some minor things I requested (door handle, wiper arm, etc.). I didn't pay for any of the work done. My car started this time when I went to pick it up : ) It was clean and waiting in front of the lot for me. All in all, I was happy with the work done and attention to my concerns.

    Since getting my car back, however, there have been a few issues that I have yet to get checked. I'm wondering if anyone may know what may be wrong or the best course for me to take.

    1. My brakes squeal pretty loud. The car is stopping fine and I don't have to push all the way down on the pedal. The front brakes and rotors are brand new. I had the dealer check my rear brakes the last time it was in for repairs and the service mgr said they still had time but that they should be looked at during my next service check. Today, however, it's raining and much cooler and I didn't hear the squeal. ???

    2. Passenger window closed hard sometimes and won't go all the way up when it does that. It doesn't happen all the time but at least a couple times a week. This is a new problem. Is the window off track and can it easily be fixed?

    3. Biggest problem... my car has lost a lot of juice. Sometimes it feels like it doesn't want to go. It moves but not with ease... it feels like I am forcing it to go. It is even worse with the AC on but it does that sometimes, even without the AC on. Sometimes it seems like the engine is working way to hard and then it clicks in and goes. What is causing this? Is it related to the cyclinder head work?

    I appreciate any help you may be able to offer.
  • bozybozy Member Posts: 8
    I just had the same problem on my 1999 Sonata ( sub frame rusted out ). The car is in the repair shop now. How much did you have to pay for your repair and did Hyundai finally reimburse you? Thanks!
  • rimartinez1rimartinez1 Member Posts: 4
    An excellent point craigbrooks. the engine is the V6; I agree that this will be the best way to increase the possibility of having it fixed. thanks for the tip.
  • samsarasamsara Member Posts: 3
    For a 2007 limited Sonata, searched the B pillar over and over, but only see the VIN label and a sticker with tire pressure info. Could someone please tell me in detail where you found the date of manufacture for your car? Thanks!
  • bill304bill304 Member Posts: 18
    -Recieved an ad from the dealer I bought the car from-with four coupons BUT only one can be used at a time,according to the fine print. I'm going to have the 50k maintenace done-V6-I'm guessing it will cost a couple hundred or more ?-there is a coupon for so much off according to how much is spent- exp $25 off $250 or more.

    An oil change coupon $25.95( average price anywhere you go near my Phila)

    A summer system service-drain-inspect-refill/pressure test/check hoses/clamps.$79.99 -average cost in this area

    The last coupon offers 10% off timing belt replacement. Since it is getting to be an older car I'm thinking of keeping it at least two more years.By doing the 50k maintenance, would it be best to also change the timing belt>?

    Thanks to all the Sonata mechanical guys on the boards.
  • specialcarspecialcar Member Posts: 1
    Hello everyone, I have a 2001 Hyundai Sonata GLS, it has a V6 engine; I bought it new. Haven't had a lot of issues with it until lately and I'm scared. I want to save money, don't want to get into another car note. A few months ago I don't know how this happened but my head gasket had a crack in it, I don't like for things to continue with my car. I change the oil and fluids regularly, I check the fluids bi-weekly just to make sure all levels are where they should be so I was surprised as to needing a head gasket. It was a small crack, but it was there. So replaced that $1500, I thought why not, if that's the only problem I'll have other than regular maintenance then I'd rather pay $1500 then 20K to $30K for a new car. Besides I've known someone who replaced a head gasket and the car ran for years. Ok so recently the check engine light came on, after about a month I took it in to the Hyundai dealer, where I was told it is a camshaft sensor, I've replaced that before, but I recently moved from Illinois to Maryland and my certified mechanic is there...besides I think I read in this forum there can be more than one, if I'm wrong I apologize. Anyway just received my first paycheck yesterday, and made an appt to take the car in, but last night I went to put gas in the car, turned it off, put gas in, went to turn it on...and the car wouldn't do anything...wasn't saying a word. I couldn't even roll of the windows.

    My fiance's son came and tried to jump me with one of those portable chargers, and I was able to roll up the windows, it said something, but wouldn't turn over.

    So when my fiance got home from work last night we tried jumping it off because it seemed the battery was DEAD, but then when he hooked it up to his car the park lights came on, but the park light switch wasn't on. Then when I put the keys in the ignition and turned it on, the tempature gauge went from cold to hot in one second, and the window washer blades went crazy and like I said these things were not on. So my question is, if driving on a defective camshaft sensor could it make these things happen to a car that was driving perfectly fine other than the hesitation due to needing the sensor...I'm guessing??? Please help, I'm having the car towed to the dealer, and do not want to get taken to the cleaners...AND I don't want to buy a new car...the whole reason I really took care of this car was to be carnote free for a few years. Thanks to all in advance. :cry:
  • mellygirl5mellygirl5 Member Posts: 1
    I called the Hyundai 800 #, told the guy my VIN# and he told me the manufacture date, the call lasted about 2 minutes total.
  • bill304bill304 Member Posts: 18
    -I went to that web page and the main article is about a new design for a tibiron, is it listed under another sub heading or link ?
  • bill304bill304 Member Posts: 18
    -I called for an appt at the dealer where I purchased my 2002 V6-sonata I asked what needs to be checked with 52k, he said chassis/brake system ,price $99 plus any parts/labor done. Now a major chain is running a special for a no-charge braking system check, it sounds like a no-brainer to me but can these independant chains be trusted to say what honestly :confuse: needs to be replaced or not ?

    Are there web any sites that rate Hyundai dealers based upon their service deptartments, fairness in prices charged and quality of work done >?<
  • lunchndboxlunchndbox Member Posts: 1
    my 2001 sonota is stuck in limp mode. computer code says TCM not sensing relay. I need to find out where the relay is. a mechanic at my dealership said it is under the heater in the center console. but he said he doesn't know the part number til he removes the old relay
    (B.S.??)
    the parts department says they don't know the relay type unless i have the old one as well. but i don't know what it looks like to remove it, all i see is the computer and the airbag computer. does anybody out there know how to describe what i am looking for. transmission relay where are you?please driving in third stinks!! :confuse:
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    I just got an 06 LX. The fog lights work fine but one has condensation inside the lens. Leaving the lights on for a while sort of dries it out but the moisture comes back. The lens does NOT have any cracks or holes, looks brand new. It appears the seal is broken. Anyone seen this and think the dealer will replace it under warranty?
  • ctc1ctc1 Member Posts: 66
    Anyone know where the fuel tank air filter is located and what it does.
  • tntbakertntbaker Member Posts: 22
    It cost me $1200 for the repair. I recomend you take it to the dealer. I have been able to help 6 others so far get reinbursed from Hyundai. You have to stay on them
  • tntbakertntbaker Member Posts: 22
    Yes Hyundai finally came thru with reinbursement. I have been contact by several people and now I know of at least 6 others who have got reinbursed by Hyundai. It cost me $1200 for the repair. My best advice is to continue to call Hyundai consumer repairs and take it to a Dealer for the repairs.
  • tntbakertntbaker Member Posts: 22
    I have been trying to communicate to everyone I can, about what I did to get Hyundai to pay for my repairs. I have talked to 6 others so far who have been able to also get reimbursed.
    I have worked with several people and atleast 6 more have gotten Hyundai to settle.

    I recomend taking and have the dealer do the repair if you can. Not because they will do a better job, but it will make your fight a little less. I used email and phone calls to Hyundai Consumer affairs. It was not easy.

    You will have to be persistent. They never called me back until they finally got sick of hereing from me. I sent emails at least 2 times a week to "Hyundai Consumer Affairs"
    They told me at the begining, my rust was caused by living in the snow belt. HA!!

    I always included the string of emails to show my history. It wasn't until I recieved a RANDOM survey, that I finally got someones attention.

    Hopefully this information will continue to help. Eventually Hyundai will have to take resposibility for such an obvious Safety issue.
  • bozybozy Member Posts: 8
    Thanks TNT. I just sent an e-mail to the Hyundai Consumer Affairs office. Hopefully, I will get a response. Good to hear that you were reimbursed for the repair. I will be persistant as well to try and get this resolved.
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Good luck - keep us posted on your progress.
  • vegas60vegas60 Member Posts: 6
    I have never owner a 4 banger before either..they do run rough and with the ac on even rougher..I had it back to the dealer at least 6 times..it's an 05..and guess i will have to live with it..can't sqauwk about the warranty so I just suck it up..we only have 20,000 miles on it...it's been a decent little car (Sonata)
    Linda :shades:
  • ngeorge1ngeorge1 Member Posts: 4
    I frist wrote to the Forum in July 2007 re: this problem. I finally got my car back from the dealership after two months and a lot of insistence. The car that went into the shop with a defective clutch (second and fifth gears would not engage)and 5400 miles on the odometer has emerged with 5800 miles on it, three replaced parts, all the front end parts (ball joints and stabilizers) loose, and the clutch noise that existed from the time I bought the car still evident. I had to pay the equivalent of US$1,200 to get the car back, even though the problem should have been covered under the warranty. The Managing Director of the dealership refused to meet me, but sent directions from his office about what was to be done with this unhappy customer.

    I have written to complain to Hyundai in Korea - there seems little point in writing to Hyundai in the US, since the car came from Korea. There is no dispute system evident in the literature that came with the car, so I have out the matter in the hands of my lawyer.

    However, basically, I have no warranty on the vehicle. Even if I get settlement on this complaint, it is clear that the dealership cannot repair the vehicle and is dishonest besides which. Basically, I have to throw he warranty away.

    Incidently, the dealership also refused to give me the customer copy of the service order (which indicated that a) the mileage wa 5400 when it went into the shop and b) that I agreed to no specific repair regimen.

    This experience has been horrible... the reputation of the car in Jamaica is suffering for the dealer's inadequacies and dishonesty.
  • togrovetogrove Member Posts: 25
    I have an '06 Sonata GLS V6. It's reaching 15,000 miles. Beside oil change, what else is required? The car manual only says an oil change at 7,500 and 15,000 miles. This is simpler than my old Corolla so I'm a little surprised. TIA.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    can you approach the Better Business Bureau?
  • dbailey348dbailey348 Member Posts: 3
    Glad I am not alone. I recently went to have my car inspected and was told that it failed due to a rotted subframe. I didn't believe that a car with 7 years and 90,000 would be rotted at the frame. I asked to observe and was shocked when the inspector showed me the problem. The subframe is rotted thru on both sides and the welds are cracked. This is only on the subframe. The rest of the frame and underbody are tiptop. The inspector pointed to two areas on the weld where the weld stops leaving a hole that allows water and moisture to enter. Due to the frame being like a channel the water stays in the lowest point and rotted out on both sides. I already spoke to the dealer and was told that the corrosion is not covered in the extended warranty I bought? How could this, which is definitely faulty construction not be covered? In any case I am happy to have found this site and have already wrote an e-mail to Hyundai consumer affairs. I will be going to the dealer tomorrow as the car is not road worthy and must be fixed. I expect a fight and would like anyone with similar experiences, positive or negative to e-mail me at DBailey348@tds.net.
    Thanks
  • targettuningtargettuning Member Posts: 1,371
    I should note that I do not have this particular car or this problem but felt compelled to make some general comments. Why would it suprise you that a 7 year old/90,000 mile car could have a rusted out subframe or anything else for that matter? Depending on where you live, how well you take care of the car, and whether there is a winter there with snow and slush and all the corrosive melting chemicals used (e.g. salt and the "new" liquid pre-treatment used here in Pa and elsewhere)this can easily happen especially if you do not get an "underbody" wash frequently. The subframe is a forgotten item and it appears that there may be a basic flaw that allows water to stay inside a boxed area to cause the trouble you have. Anyhow, you ask "how could corrosion NOT be covered in an extended warranty?" Well, you have the text of your warranty in front of you so read it. All covered items will be pointed out. all non covered items will be pointed out. The rust through part of the original warranty covers body perforation..not underbody parts. No manufacturer warrants the underbody only body panels.
    I am curious, how often do you have to get your car inspected? It seems as though only now nearly 100K miles and 7 years later did this problem come to light through a long overdue inspection. Maybe if detected earlier a "fix" could have been applied and this failure may have been avoided.
    In summary: I don't necessarily consider this to be "faulty construction" I concede there may be a fault in the design that if detected earlier (through regular inspection) could have been avoided by maybe a bit of welding. Maybe you never wash your car and never have since new which could contribute to this problem. I do not infer any of these speculations are true only that there could be extenuating circumstances that may have caused this.
    After further research it appears that cars within the rust belt are mostly affected and there may be a design flaw. I agree that Hyundai should replace these if some of the horror stories I read elsewhere (and photos I viewed as well) are true. I probably would try to get Hyundai to at least pay part of the replacement costs as well. Good luck
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